Thursday, June 27, 2013

John & Lynne's French Odyssey: St Emilion

On Friday, Vinexpo having ended, we drove to St Émilion
On the outskirts of the town, we stopped at a wine shop
which advertised tastings 
 and had a stupendous range of wines from Bordeaux (prices shown are per bottle)
 It hurts to do the sums, but the 1988 Petrus cost R29700 per bottle. Who'd like a case?
 Chateau d'Yquem is a bargain by comparison
 They can arrange exports for you
 Beautiful roses at the ends of the rows
 and rain everywhere
 We entered St Émilion from the south
along a narrow lane
 
A folly
 a  tiny fern in a wall
 and vineyards as far as you can see
beautiful plantings of Impatiens
 Old stone buildings
 and many wine shops
 and restaurants
 In this Epicerie, we were given a taste of paté and a little Pineau de Charantes, and we bought some patés
 A small cognac still
 Ice cream
 and macaroons 
 This Englishman obviously thought that he should wear shorts because he was on holiday in the south
 Everyone else was dressed for winter
 The town center, St Émilion
 This restaurant looked good, but too expensive (we saw no customers, so others must have agreed)
 so we chose this one across the way. We were hungry and decided to stop looking even if it would be expensive. It was wet
 
 We ordered confit duck, which came with a glass each of St Émilion
 It was a delicious choice
 The chef was the owner and the waiter. He refused a tip 
 Wines for sale, matured and so young they still need planting

 WE visited a garagiste winemaker
 who has grown a bit. Called "Bad Boy" because Robert Parker scored him #1 when he made his first vintage in St Émilion
 His charming assistant let us taste the wines
 He says he is NOT from St Émilion
and, after a lovely day, despite the rain, we went back to Bordeaux
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© John & Lynne Ford. Adamastor & Bacchus 2013

John & Lynne's French Odyssey: Ile d'Oleron and Bordeaux

After a last look at the boats
 cars (the future of city transport? A tiny 2 seater electric Renault)
and beaches

 of Ile d'Oléron,
we drove back to Bordeaux, where Lynne had found us a beautiful central city ground floor flat, owned by a lawyer who rented it to us for less than we would have paid for a grotty one star hotel
 with a terrace and a private garden
 and a good kitchen
 After the first day (Sunday) of Vinexpo, we took a stroll down through the city,  looking at the restaurants
the shops
a chocolate Fiat 500 for Father's Day: only 63€ (R850)
and the sights



Bordeaux has some innovative ideas about public transport, tricycle rickshaws outside the Opera House
very modern trams
 and city-owned bicycles - put your money in the slot to unlock one
and nobody steals them!
At the riverside, a mirror of water, just deep enough to reflect everything
 
A bridge across the Gironde
 Bordeaux cathedral
 We had breakfast in the kitchen, listening to Cape Talk on the laptop to keep up with events at home. 
At the end of another day, relaxing in the garden, when it wasn't raining 
 with a much needed beer
In the square (Place des Martyrs de la Resistance) we were next to the ancient Church of St Seurin de Bordeaux - the original cathedral

 
 
 
 The crypt is supported by the pillars of the Roman temple to Jupiter, the original temple on the site
On Sunday, we relaxed with the birds and the fruit in the garden
 
 Lynne always finds a cat
Bordeaux airport, Monday 04h30  
 for our 06h00 flight to Amsterdam
 to catch the 10h30 flight to Cape Town
 where our dear friend Loraine came to fetch us
home to enjoy some of the wines we brought home 
 including a few home-grown wines given to us as the WOSA stand was closing. Thank you Evan!
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 © John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2013