Monday, April 24, 2017

Restaurant Week lunch at Faber, Avondale, Paarl

Sometimes you just have the most perfect day and last Saturday was it. We had booked for lunch for four of us during Restaurant Week at Faber. We had eaten and really enjoyed chef Eric Bulpitt's food when he was at Newton Johnson and this is his new restaurant. So, when Lynne spotted Faber on the Restaurant Week list, she booked. We haven't been back to Avondale for several years - we try to get around as much as possible, but there is a long list of places we want to visit. And of course we do get invited to many. The name is Eric's inspiration: FABER m (genitive fabrī); second declension. craftsman, creator, artisan, architect, maker, artificer, smith

Faber is open for lunch Wednesday – Sunday: 12h00 – 15h00 and for Dinner Wednesday – Saturday: 18h30 – 21h00. These times will change as we enter the Winter season, so check with the restaurant
The wine tasting area and restaurant share this building. The garden outside is absolutely magnificent. Avondale is a Biodynamic farm and they have 7 dams. They are outside Paarl, just off the N1 on the way to the Huguenot tunnel. They recycle almost everything and the water used is put through their water reclamation system, so the gardens receive the benefit. There are old fashioned roses with beautiful perfume, lots of indigenous plants, and those purple salvias attract lots of sunbirds, so you can sit on the terrace tasting wine watching them ...
...and the beautiful Drakenstein mountain and Paarl Rock with the autumnal trees and vines
We spent some time admiring the garden; we arrived a little early for lunch
Makes you wish you had this amount of space for a huge border garden like this. And the possibility of watering it
One of our friends had just celebrated a birthday, so we enjoyed a bottle of the Avondale MCC, Armilla Blanc de Blanc 2009. It has a lovely brioche nose with some lily of the valley, clean lemon and lime flavours of medium length and a nice mousse
This was the special Restaurant Week menu. Restaurant week is held twice a year; the next one will be in the Spring. It happens in our larger cities and in the Winelands. You can register on line and book for lunches and dinners. It began last Thursday, 20th April, and will finish next Sunday, 30th April. We believe there are still some places with availability http://www.restaurantweek.co.za
This is the normal menu, so even if you don't get there during Restaurant week, and we think you should visit, you can have the dishes we had, if not at the special price
The wine list carries the Avondale wines
Ah, the bread offering. Now some of you might recognise the reference. Yes, Chef Eric Bulpitt did work with Chef George Jardine and yes, his bread is as good as George’s. Those were warm Indian bhaji, good sourdough slices and really lovely seed loaf. Served with rendered lard and, for our veggie friends, good butter
The Pass and the Kitchen with chef Eric Bulpitt, his wife Celeste and waiter Prince Kohi. It is an open kitchen
We drank a bottle of Anima Chenin blanc, rich, and full of layers of fruit. So good with all the food we had
Lunch on the terrace
We loved our starter of small deep fried duck kromeski, crisp with lovely salty confit duck inside, with a pouring of a lovely chestnut velouté. Avondale has a large flock of ducks that keep the vineyards free of pests like snails. And yes, they do eat them. Ducks are rather fecund
The very pretty vegetarian starter of Korean style barbecued celeriac, with 'ferments' and pickles. Our friends said it was superb, very Korean, especially the pickles
We don't order chicken very much when eating out; it is often dry or barely cooked. However, if it was all like this, we would - often. The chicken was so moist and tender that we concluded it had to be cooked sous vide. The skin was flavourful and crisp. On the right, a well made of polenta and sweet corn contained a rich meat jus. This dish was also accompanied by a poured sweet corn velouté. We used our bread to 'George Jardine' our plates - sending them back to the kitchen shining clean, without a whisper of sauce left on them, as we do at George's
Whole roasted cauliflower, with fermented core and leaf ribs and a cauliflower purée. Cauliflower is not a favourite with everyone (like coriander and mushrooms) but it was said to be very good by She who loves it. Nice to see seeds used as texture. Lynne often uses slivered toasted almonds
There was a large tour group from Australia in the main restaurant, being hosted by owner Johnathan Grieve. The divine smells of the East Coast hake they were served wafted our way, redolent of shellfish. Definitely one to return to try while it is on the menu
The bill. We had the restaurant special of R200 pp for 2 courses and added two portions of chunky chips with their skins on. We passed on the dessert but enjoyed four excellent espressos. So it came to R700 per couple; we always split the bill. A special mention to our waiter Prince Kohi, pleasant, informed, friendly and efficient. Thank you

Breakfast at Cape Point Vineyards

We felt like a drive in our new car to explore breakfast somewhere different and Cape Point Vineyards in Noordhoek got the vote. We also intended to explore the area afterwards. We did book and were reassured by them that the breakfasts, normally served outside, would be served inside should the weather change. We hadn’t been back there since we worked at their market in 2013
The menu
The view! The lake still has water, but is rather low
It was a lovely morning when we arrived at 10, so we were happy to sit outside at the picnic tables on the terrace. We were given a warm welcome
Our waitress Tumi explaining the menu. Lynne is not terrified or horrified, honest. Loraine is amused. We try to decide what to have
Loraine's and Ronnie's choice was the American pancakes with fresh strawberries, pecan nut crumble, vanilla bean cream and organic maple syrup. The pancakes are flapjacks. It was pronounced excellent
Lynne's Eggs Benedict with smoked salmon. The salmon was good and generous, the Hollandaise sauce correct and good, as were the toasted muffins. Sadly, the eggs were completely over-cooked and untrimmed, so she had bits of dead egg white on the edges. They ruined the dish. They need to ask how you want to have your eggs served. Runny yolks are essential
John ordered the Country style scrambled eggs with crisp bacon, topped with rocket, grated parmesan and tomatoes and a dash or three of balsamic vinegar. The scrambled eggs were very good; creamy and properly soft. Sadly, the bacon was not at all crisp and was a little leathery. The rocket, seemingly obligatory these days, was a little too ample and smothered the dish
Our bill, we had lots of coffee! Not too expensive
Lovely roses on the table
Birds in flocks on the trees, lots of starlings, but we think some were gathering to return north for the summer there
They have a small shop
Wines to take home and craft beers, cold drinks and sweeties
Both girls coveted the French cupboard facade, full of wine and corporate merchandise
The restaurant has a lovely terrace for lunch and dinner with those superb views
The bar inside. The wine tasting is done at their winery further down the road towards Chapman’s Peak Drive
An elegant lounge area
We explored Noordhoek and Kommetjie, went to a huge pottery there called Liebermann, with more pots than we have ever seen in one place in Africa, and then drove home along Chapman’s Peak and ended up at another favourite place, Dunes in Hout Bay, for a beer
and of course with beer goes chips, we called it lunch
Admiring the view, it was a beautiful day
People enjoying the bay 
and the beach. We are having quite a good Indian summer but we’re still longing for rain

Wednesday, April 19, 2017

This Week's MENU. Degustation Menu at Azure Restaurant, Breakfast at Newport Deli, A marvellous Chenin party, Wine of the Week. Meerlust Chardonnay 2014, Classic Tarte Tatin

Common waxbills (Estrilda astrild)
photographed from the verandah at David van Niekerk’s High Constantia winery
We live in a wonderful country. People from all walks of life are voicing dissatisfaction with the President and his cohorts, but it is done without violence by members of our nation from all our diverse ethnicities and faiths. It will take time and, we hope, patience, but the will of the majority must ultimately prevail. Meanwhile, life continues for most of us. Money is tight, rain (in the Cape) is slight, but we manage and, speaking for ourselves, we have a huge amount of fun doing the things that provide the material for our stories. We hope you’ll enjoy what we have for you this week
Food for Fanatical Foodies: A Degustation Menu at Azure Restaurant at the Twelve Apostles Hotel     
From the 5th of May and on every first Friday of the month thereafter, The Twelve Apostles Hotel is offering you the chance of experiencing a six course degustation menu. Limited to between six and 12 guests, you will have the experience of eating at the Chef's Table in Azure restaurant. Hosted by Chef Christo Pretorius who is ably accompanied by Head Sommelier and co-host, Gregory Mutambe, a six-course surprise menu - all about textures and flavours, will be prepared especially for the guests. Each dish will be paired with a selection of South Africa’s best wines, chosen by Gregory. The cost to book an exclusive place at the Chef’s Table is R2150 per person - price includes meal, wine/tea pairing, water and gratuity. We think that this might also suit the corporate market when they need to entertain overseas guests
We were invited last week, along with other members of the media, to sample the food and wine that will be on the menu. It was quite a tour de force with some excellent wines
Breakfast at Newport Deli      
On a fairly miserable morning after a night of (much appreciated) rain we ventured out to Mouille Point to Newport Deli to try their breakfasts. We did not realise that they keep a kosher menu so were a little bit disappointed to discover no bacon but turkey macon, something we avoid. We are not fans of pretend food and miss the fat on the bacon!
A marvellous Chenin party      
We were so delighted to see the Chenin Blanc Association open up their annual Chenin Blanc tasting to the public. The Magic of Chenin and All that Jazz! party was held last week at The Grand on the Beach in the Waterfront from 5 to 10 and was sensational. A chance to taste Chenin from every member of the association, old and new and some very different. We had a ball....
Wine of the Week: Meerlust Chardonnay 2014

We had this wine at the farm two years ago at a lunch with owner Hannes Myburgh and talented winemaker Chris Williams. We loved it then and it has become even better. We had it again last week at the Degustation Dinner at Azure Restaurant. What a superb wine. It was a beautiful match with the food it was paired with: a lightly citrus and vanilla cured Norwegian salmon with roasted hazelnuts. We knew the wine pairing was a Chardonnay of great provenance, but did not guess it correctly as we thought it was from a cool area like Hemel en Aarde or Elgin. Indeed it was great; the elegant Meerlust 2014 from Stellenbosch, served in Riedel Montrachet glasses, was weighty, full, with some beautiful oaking, the clean lemon lime Chardonnay flavours shining through, silky and intense but not blousy or over ripe as Chardonnays from warmer areas can be sometimes
What's on the MENU this week: Classic Tarte Tatin     
Cool Autumn weather has been showing its face this week and we were entertaining over the Easter Weekend. We had been given a bag of lovely Elgin apples so the choice of our dessert was easy. This recipe is very original, from the French; it uses lots of wicked things like sugar and butter and is absolutely irresistible. Lynne usually uses short crust pastry but decided this time, as time was short, not to make the pastry but to buy the (you need a small mortgage) butter puff pastry from Woolworths. It rose like a dream but was thin and, despite leaving it in the oven a bit too long - the apples were melting - was still soggy when turned out. The Americans have made adaptations to the recipe which Lynne does not like. They always want things easier and quicker. They are using huge chunks of apple and are cooking them in a butter and sugar caramel before applying the pastry, which is always puff. We prefer a paté brisée (a rich short crust pastry) and normal sliced apples. Peel them if you like, don't if you prefer. Lynne makes this is in a heavy bottomed sauté pan with two handles (see photo). First you make caramel in the pan, then you arrange the fruit, then top with pastry. Remember, Caramel is not pale, honey-coloured, nor is it dark burnt brown. A nice red brown is enough
Rich Shortcrust Pastry
175g plain flour - 50g icing sugar - a pinch of salt - 90 g butter - 1 egg yolk - 2 tablespoons iced water - squeeze of lemon juice
Sift flour and sugar with the salt then rub in the butter until it looks like fine breadcrumbs. Mix the yolk and 1 tablespoon water with lemon juice and mix into the flour with a knife. Use one hand to quickly and gently press into a firm dough. Add more water if necessary, but do not make the pastry too wet. Wrap in cling film and chill till ready to use. You can also make this in a food processor.
Making the caramel : 1/2 cup white sugar
Have ready a bowl full of cold water large enough to take the base of the pan, so that you can cool the caramel quickly to stop it burning. Put the pan on the heat and cover the base with half a cup of sugar. Watching it carefully, allow it to turn itself into caramel. Do not leave it alone, never stir and do not let it burn. Do not touch it, you will get burned. When the caramel has reached a good red amber colour, turn off the heat and put just the base of the pan into the cold water to stop the caramelisation. Do not get any water into the pan. Let it cool to a hard set
1 kilo Granny Smith apples - 2 t lemon juice - 50 g butter - 50g brown Treacle or Demerara sugar - 50g vanilla castor sugar - 25 g butter
Preheat the oven to 200°C
Peel, core and slice the apples, approx 2 cm thick half moon slices . Sprinkle with lemon juice. Put small teaspoonfuls of the soft butter on the base of the pan on top of the set caramel, sprinkle over the treacle sugar. Then arrange the apple slices in  tight concentric circles in the pan on top of the sugar and the butter. Sprinkle with the vanilla sugar and add the 25g of butter. Roll out the pastry into a circle just larger than the pan and lay it on top of the apples, tucking the edges in down the sides of the apples. Put into the oven for half an hour or until the pastry is golden and crisp
Turning out. You will need a dish larger than the pan, with a good lip - Lynne uses a very large quiche dish. Put the dish over the pan and, using tea towels to protect your hands, carefully and quickly flip the pan over so the tart upends into the dish. Do this over a sink and make sure you flip away from yourself. This is where you get loud applause from anyone looking. Get someone to help you if you are nervous. There is always someone brave at a dinner party. There will be lots of buttery caramel juices. Serve immediately. We always flame the apples with a little calvados or brandy. Serve with thick cream and or real vanilla custard. Serve with chilled calvados or a Noble Late Harvest dessert wine








18th April 2017
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Recommendations of products and outside events are not solicited or charged for, and are made at the authors’ pleasure. All photographs, recipes and text used in these newsletters and our blogs are © John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus. Our restaurant reviews are usually unsolicited. We prefer to pay for our meals and not be paid in any way by anyone. Whether we are invited or go independently, we don’t feel bad if we say we didn’t like it. Honesty is indeed our best policy. While every effort is made to avoid mistakes, we are human and they do creep in occasionally, for which we apologise. This electronic journal has been sent to you because you have personally subscribed to it or because someone you know has asked us to send it to you or forwarded it to you themselves. Addresses given to us will not be divulged to any person or organisation. We collect them only for our own promotional purposes. If you wish to be added to our mailing list, please click here to send us a message and if you wish to be removed from our mailing list, please click here to send us a message.



© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017