Tuesday, January 15, 2019

Supper at Isabella's on the wharf at Lambert's Bay

Isabella’s on the Dock side in Lambert's Bay is where you go for seafood, we were told by our landlady
So we made a booking for dinner during the week
We took a bottle of Groote Post Sea Salter, a white blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon 2015 and this seemed like the right occasion to open it. We were happy to pay the corkage of R30. Groote Post, from Darling, is another West Coast winery and this wine just smells and tastes of the sea. The richness of the Semillon and the crispness of the Sauvignon marry well, with a lovely mouthfeel and long satisfying flavours, just right for rich food like Crayfish
We ordered our main courses and were then told there would be a 45 minute wait for the mains,
so we decided to order starters as we were pretty hungry
Our very friendly waiter is from, wait for it, Zimbabwe!
Gannets flying in to roost for the night
What was on the end of that rope? Could he have been fishing for crayfish?
The hide in the Bird Island gannet colony, which is at the end of the breakwater
The deep fried calamari poppers stuffed with cream cheese were crisp
The Jalapeno Poppers were fiery enough to be compared to mild Habaneros, and we are quite used to hot food
Lynne could not taste anything for a while! The wine cooled her down a bit
Perhaps we should have waited
Other dishes on the menu
Lynne learnt a salutary lesson with the Crayfish Thermidor she ordered. She ordered a 400/499gm cray for R200. She used to eat and love this delicacy at the old Harbour Cafe in the Cape Town docks when she was very young. Created in France in 1891, it is famous. This was not at all like that. If you love crayfish, just order it naked. Then it will come fresh. Served like this, they can use older crays from the freezer - we think the wait was to defrost it, not to cook it, as that takes moments. It was chopped into small pieces and covered in a thick, gluey cheese sauce and grilled. No sign of any brandy or other alcohol. Definitely very little crayfish meat in the shell, lots of sauce. And missing that lovely texture and sweetness that good crayfish has. So sad
John had Surf and Turf - steak and calamari R150. Boring, perhaps, but quite good,
although the steak could have been a little less medium and more rare
The current owner of Isabella’s is from Macedonia; he is married to a local girl whose parents were the previous owners
Our bill
Happy smiling Tonde, our waiter
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© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2019

A pre-Christmas break in Lambert's Bay

After a very busy year, we decided that a few days’ break up the West Coast would be a good idea, so we booked a house in Lambert's Bay for ten days
On the way, we stopped at the Rosemead artisan bakery in Yzerfontein for lunch,
because we’d heard so many good things about it
The baker was busy getting dough shaped for loaves. They really have the most wonderful bread. We didn’t buy any but collected our order of Pasteis de Nata that we had placed during the week. And we bought some escargots (snail shaped croissant dough filled with marzipan and lots of butter), both quite superb and decadent. The Pasteis are good, with crisp pastry but not quite as good as those we had in BelĂ©m
The very simple menu of the day
It’s a nice and relaxed place, great to stop off for lunch on the way up the coast
Lynne had the Fresh sandwich of Avo, goats cheese, humus and salad leaves on a scrumptious seed roll
Lots of flavour and totally vegetarian
John had the Hot Pressed Sandwich on sourdough with bacon, fior de latte mozzarella and tomato
They don’t have a licence and were happy for us to drink our own beers
"I do not want my photo taken" ... shy waitress. We highly recommend and will definitely be back again for food and bread
The three bedroomed house we rented in Lambert's Bay for about R700 per night
Very comfortable with all the essentials
A very well fitted kitchen
The door leads to the outside deck and there is both a binne braai and an outdoor one
Nice large bedrooms; all have their own bathrooms
And it is right across the road from the sea. We had great views of local fishing boats going by
and lots of sea birds, including the famous gannets
Council workers stopping for a bite to eat. The season hadn't quite begun and they were busy sprucing up the town
Lambert's Bay is not big and a bit stuck in the past. There are a few restaurants, two small supermarkets
and not many amenities, but it is a lovely place for a relaxing break
For those concerned about the legendary smell, the fish factory is now a potato chip processing factory
The view of the sea in all its many moods was lovely
Spectacular sunsets as you look due West
And watch the skeins of cormorants flying to their roost
Opal final light
The colourful harbour
The ships did seem to stay in harbour most of the time, and the weather was fine
Lack of fish or fishing permits? The town is poor and the main economy used to be fishing
We were recommended to go to Isabella’s for seafood. We had been once before many years ago
Lynne examined the menu and we booked for dinner one night later in the week
Lots of locals on the beach at the weekend. The holiday makers would be here the following weekend
as school holidays would have started.
Teenagers on the end of the breakwater. There is not much for them to do in the area
Enjoying the water which is rather cold. It does warm up as the summer goes on
Miss Fancy Pants having a great time!
The tide is coming in
The route to Bird Island is on one side of the harbour
R50 a person to get in to the Nature Reserve and visit the Cape Gannet colony
Kelp beds in the clear harbour water
The Gannets in flight. Have a look at John's separate story about the gannets
A Kelp Gull (Larus Dominicanus) in perfect sail mode. Also known as Dominican gull and Southern blackbacked gull
And a pretty Grey Plover (Pluvialis squatarola)
Sundowner on the deck with a bottle of Migliarina Chenin Blanc
The fire is lit. The mangoes were being ripened for breakfast
for our first Braai of the holiday - boerewors, lamb chop (for Lynne) and sirloin steak (for John)
Yes, we have been on country dirt roads.... We were having a lovely rest but we still can't sit stock still... see our Fryer's Cove and Namaqua stories