Friday, March 10, 2017

Anniversary lunch at the Chefs Warehouse

Last Wednesday was our Wedding Anniversary. We are rather surprised to find we have been married for 14 years, it has gone so quickly and been so much fun. We like to celebrate with a good meal out, somewhere we have heard about before but not yet been to. Liam Tomlin opened this store/restaurant in 2014 when they moved from their old site in Bree Street and we have been trying to go for a very long time. Quite difficult as we are invited out to restaurants and wine farms often several times in a week.
It is on the corner of Heritage Square with the entrance in Bree Street, Number 92
An important thing you need to know, there are no reservations. Come early or you might have to queue, or wait for a table. We were lucky. John was there at 12 and got us a table; he was in town for an appointment
There is a retail area, full of books and things that a cook might desire for sale
and a guardian
Tables outside on the terrace
Inside, simple wooden tables and rather uncomfortable old fashioned stools
Bread and Liam Tomlin cookbooks for sale
Might look familiar to those of you who knew our shop in Sea Point, Main Ingredient. They have lots of the ingredients we used to sell, and several new ones. No wine for sale other than that for consumption with your meal though
A hint at the variety of food styles they serve
Look familiar? Spices in small packets
It is in a lovely old building with the original 18th Century windows
Lynne's bus didn’t arrive, she had to wait another half hour, so John comforted himself with a beer. A new one for us, the Drifter with a blonde on the label. Which is what the beer is, the Cape Town Blonde. Very good, with citrus hints
The menu is brief. We decided go go for the most popular option, the Tapas for 2 at R650
Some of the other choices. They now have a branch at Beau Constantia wine farm, which is near the top of Constantia Nek
It is an interesting wine list, some of our favourites, affordable and less so, (no Taittinger today) and some we have not yet discovered. A good choice of wines by the glass
We opted for a wine we last had at La Colombe (thank you Joseph). Called Dirty Julie, it's a 2014 Verdelho grown in the Swartland, made by David Cope and Simon Wibberley. We knew it would go very well with the menu of the day, and it paired beautifully
Lynne enjoying the experience. The nose is full of hot dusty grassland with loquat notes. On the palate, lots of citrus pomelo marmalade. It has crisp acids and long flavours, a great wine to go with food
The first three dishes: Dark plate: Fish and chips: Gentle steamed hake with lemon mayo, gherkins, capers and red and pickled onions, topped with tiny potato crisps - was nice, but didn't excite. Top left: Deep fried squid with charred pineapple & Sriracha mayonnaise. Squid, perfectly crisp, crunch coated, tender as butter, a wow with the Sriracha and pineapple. Could have eaten an entire plate each. And then the tuna. What to say about perfect raw, really fresh tuna, so rarely found, a generous round, dressed with a perfect Vietnamese sweet, hot, sour and spicy dressing and an avocado purée, topped with salmon caviar shallots, micro greens, herbs. It melted in the mouth. We could only rave and wish there had been two slices each.
Second serving was one for the vegetable lovers (like us). Gado Gado, an Indonesian salad of peas, fresh steamed broad beans in their pods, baby corn, radishes, pea nuts, herbs and micro greens in a gentle but present peanut Satay sauce. How to showcase fresh seasonable vegetables at their best. In the copper pot, a green parsley risotto, rice perfectly cooked, rich and sticky with cheese and butter and ricotta, topped with crisp pancetta flakes - more please
Our final three courses: Top left: Flash fried swordfish served Portuguese style with olives, tomatoes and onions. Crisp on the outside, soft and moist in the centre. Congratulations to the chef, who really knows how to cook this difficult fish. It can be like cardboard. Loads of flavour and excitement. Next to it: Pork fillet medallions, pink in the centre, with an unctuous, sticky, charred aubergine slice and an excellent meat glaze, with a creamy butternut purée. This was served on a bed of flavourful couscous, full of Moroccan Ras al Hanout spices, rich and tender. In the pan, slices of entrecote steak, fondant baby potatoes, crisp roasted parsnips, and some celeriac purée, topped with an onion soubise (classic French onion sauce). For Lynne, it brought back memories of an excellent English roast dinner. Well done chef, an extraordinarily good meal, so accomplished with all the varied techniques and culinary influences
The couple next to us had the same meal and seemed as enthusiastic and happy as we were. The staff were really lovely, friendly, quick and responsive
Good weather to eat outside
Our bill
Alongside the restaurant is the tiny bar
Good for escaping work
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017

A look at Heritage Square, Cape Town

On our wedding anniversary last Wednesday, I had an hour to kill between doing my bit at a casting in Loop St and meeting Lynne at The Chef's Warehouse for a celebratory lunch. It had been a while since we had visited any of the fine collection of food and wine venues in this historic square complex, so I stuck my lens into a few corners. It is a collection of eighteenth century buildings which came frighteningly close to being demolished to make way for a freeway in the 1990s. The quadrangle in the middle of the square is the home of what is believed to be the oldest grape vine in the country, possibly planted in the 1770s

The marquee over the door of Bizerca, a great French fusion restaurant run by Laurent Deslandes and his wife Cyrillia. We had heard that they had closed, so I decided to take a look
 Inside the square, everything looked normal and all Bizerca's tables were ready for lunch but I heard, a little later, that they will close at the end of March, very sad and regrettable. We have had some memorable meals there and at their original venue behind the tax man's office
Reasons will, certainly, become apparent in due course
Just across the square is Dorrance, Christophe Durand's small centre city winery and restaurant. The inner square entrance takes one into Christophe's small wine shop, where he has an interesting range of his own wines and the wines he imports from sources around the world as well as other delights including a very good Calvados 
The entrance to the restaurant, Bouchon Wine Bar & Bistro, is off Hout Street, on the other side of the square 
It is run in collaboration with Faisal Khakoo of Sea Point's popular bistro La Bohème. It is only open in the evenings and has a comprehensive tapas menu which is changed frequently to keep fresh and seasonal
The wine list on the board has some interesting wines from other countries, all imported by Christophe, including excellent Greek wines made by Gaia in Santorini from Assyrtiko and Agiorgitiko
Before the premises became a restaurant, they housed a foundry where interesting ironwork was produced using traditional methods. The foundry's old press makes an interesting display case in the middle
Christophe's small winery has his wine maturing in barrels (he also imports and sells barrels) and his fermentation tanks
A section of the winery shows some of the building's history in its wall
Jean Vincent Ridon has his Signal Hill winery and shop in a small space just inside the Shortmarket Street entrance. Jean Vincent had just stepped off the plane from France, bringing a streaming cold with him, so it would not have been fair or kind  to photograph him
But how many large cities, anywhere, can boast of two French winemakers making wine in an 18th century precinct in the city centre
 It must be one of the smallest wine production facilities in the world
 HQ is, in their words a "Parisian-inspired steakhouse / bar / lounge"
We haven't visited it, but the menu shows sirloin steak, tapas, beers, cocktails and wines. It was too early for the lunch time traffic, but they were ready
 Outside, in Hout Street, I went to see Savoy Cabbage, an old favourite
 but they were closed for lunch. There is a huge building project across the street which must be very disruptive for them and for Bouchon Wine Bar & Bistro
 Round the corner in Buitenkant is I Love my Laundry, 
"a unique concept offering laundry, dry cleaning, dyeing, alterations and ironing services, as well as serving JOGA JOGA Brazilian coffee and sweet treats. It is also home to I Love My Wine, a platform for promoting hospitality brands in an intimate experience around a dining room table"
 and next to them, the Boston Brewery has a tiny bar
with a simple menu
 The Africa Cafe has probably been in Heritage Square longer than anyone else
It offers a tapas style menu featuring traditional dishes from all over Africa
 The entrance is in Shortmarket Street
 Just before the Bree Street corner is a branch of Simply Thai, who produce good simple Thai food in several venues round Cape Town. The young lady beat a hasty retreat when she saw my camera
 And then it was time to go round the corner to meet my lovely wife, 
more about which you'll find here

Tuesday, March 07, 2017

This week's MENU. Breakfast at Bonjour, Survivor new vintage launch at Spek & Bone, Vin de Francois 9th annual wine auction, Rogan Josh recipe, Wine of the Week - Flagstone Writer's Block Pinotage 2004

A blue dragonfly on a dead leaf in our koi pond
Breakfast at Bonjour Sea Point veterans will remember New York Bagels, who were in Regent Road for many years until they disappeared a couple of years ago. Their bagels, croissants, salads etc were legendary and we often bought lunch there when we had our shop down the road. We hear that they are still running a small outlet in Harrington Street in the city centre
Some of the ex-Sea Point staff have opened a small café in the Total Garage shop in Sea Point and word is getting round about how good it is. They sell bagels and good bread and croissants and they also do breakfast and lunch. We decided to go and see what it is like
Survivor launches the new vintage at Spek & Bone, Stellenbosch Survivor is one of the brands of the Overhex winery near Worcester and we were invited to taste the new vintage of their wines at Bertus Basson's new wine bar and small plate restaurant, Spek & Bone (it's pronounced boorna - the Afrikaans name of his dog; means “beans”) Spek is his pet pig (translates as “bacon”). It is exciting when good wine is paired with a top chef's food, so we were delighted to accept, especially when they sent a minibus to take us there and back. It has now become de rigeur for transport to be provided when we attend events where we will need to taste the wines, thank heavens
The restaurant is right next to the iconic Oom Samie se Winkel (Uncle Sammy’s shop) in the historic town of Stellenbosch
Vin de Francois 9th annual wine auction  Francois Naude, a master Pinotage 
maker, who was the first winemaker at L'Avenir and has consulted with some of the best farms in the Cape, produces his ultimate Pinotage every year with the help of several of the respected Pinotage farms and winemakers. He selects from their best barrels and sells his blend on auction at the launch to trade, collectors and aficionados'. We were invited to attend on Saturday and write about it
It was a magical mystery tour. We were collected from home at 11.30 by sponsors Jaguar /Land Rover looked after most of the transport. Our first venue was La Paris function venue opposite the Victor Verster prison in Franschhoek. And then we moved at 3.30 to the second venue where the auction and dinner were held. It turned into rather a long day as we were delivered home at 11 pm. .
Recipe of the week     Lynne has, over the years, adapted this recipe to our own taste, it comes from The Curry Club Indian Restaurant book and is unusual for home cookery in that it is made in two parts as it would be in a restaurant, which are then combined. We use a slow cooker for our curries; it does improve the flavours so much. You do need to start this curry well in advance, as it needs to marinate. You can adjust the heat if you like it hotter, this is quite mild. We often use lamb shanks, as we love the richness cooking on the bone brings; you will need about a kilo on the bone. Remove them and any fat before serving
700 g lean lamb, cubed - 115 ml plain yoghurt - 1 large onion roughly chopped - 5 cm fresh ginger, grated - 2 large cloves garlic   - 1 tin chopped tomatoes or 400 ml tomato passata - 8 t coconut oil - 1 T fresh coriander     
Spices 1: 2 green cardamom - 3 cloves - 5cm piece of cinnamon or cassia bark - 1/2 t turmeric - 1/2 t chilli powder or flakes (add more to taste if you like it hotter, Lynne adds a fresh chilli) 1 t ground coriander - 1 t ground cumin   
Spices 2: 1 dessert spoon garam masala - 2 t paprika – salt
Mix the lamb with the yoghurt, Spices 1 and a teaspoon of salt. Mix well and leave to marinate for 6 hours or overnight. Put the onion, ginger, garlic and tomato into a blender and purée. Put the oil into a pan and add the onion purée. Put the lamb into another pan without any oil. Cook both for about 20 to 30 minutes. Be careful of the tomato mix, it can bubble like lava. Add salt to taste and stir the meat occasionally to prevent it sticking. Combine the two mixtures and cook until tender. (we do this in our slow cooker on low for a few hours or you can put it into a casserole in the oven at 180C for an hour or till tender). Add more tomato passata or water if the sauce looks a little dry. When ready, add Spices 2 and the fresh chopped coriander . Mix well and a cook for a further 15 minutes. Adjust taste. Serve with basmati rice and sambals and chutneys.
MENU's Wine of the Week - Flagstone Writer's Block Pinotage 2004 in a magnum   
We were reminded at a tasting of Flagstone wines near the
end of last year that we had a magnum of this wine lurking at the bottom of a rack in our cellar. The only thing left to do was to choose the appropriate occasion at which to do it justice
Lynne made a Rogan josh curry for a dinner party so, as Pinotage is a brilliant wine to accompany spicy food, this seemed the perfect choice
It was. Ripe red berry fruit and still fresh acidity, initially touched with a little vanilla from the American oak, which then comes through quite strongly on the finish. It was a great partner for the spicy, but not very hot, Indian dish. Another good example of how Pinotage can reward when it is kept for a few years. The cork was just holding together in the bottle and came out in three pieces, despite very careful handling
Platter gives the current 2014 vintage 4½ stars

7th March 2017
PS If a word or name is in bold type and underlined, click on it for more information
Phones: +27 21 439 3169 / 083 229 1172 / 083 656 4169
Postal address: 60 Arthurs Rd, Sea Point 8005
If you like the photographs you see in our publications, please look at our Adamastor Photo website for our rate card and samples from our portfolio
Recommendations of products and outside events are not solicited or charged for, and are made at the authors’ pleasure. All photographs, recipes and text used in these newsletters and our blogs are © John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus. Our restaurant reviews are usually unsolicited. We prefer to pay for our meals and not be paid in any way by anyone. Whether we are invited or go independently, we don’t feel bad if we say we didn’t like it. Honesty is indeed our best policy. While every effort is made to avoid mistakes, we are human and they do creep in occasionally, for which we apologise. This electronic journal has been sent to you because you have personally subscribed to it or because someone you know has asked us to send it to you or forwarded it to you themselves. Addresses given to us will not be divulged to any person or organisation. We collect them only for our own promotional purposes. If you wish to be added to our mailing list, please click here to send us a message and if you wish to be removed from our mailing list, please click here to send us a message.
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© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017

Recipe of the week. Rogan Josh

Recipe of the week     Lynne has, over the years, adapted this recipe to our own taste, it comes from The Curry Club Indian Restaurant book and is unusual for home cookery in that it is made in two parts as it would be in a restaurant, which are then combined. We use a slow cooker for our curries; it does improve the flavours so much. You do need to start this curry well in advance, as it needs to marinate. You can adjust the heat if you like it hotter, this is quite mild. We often use lamb shanks, as we love the richness cooking on the bone brings; you will need about a kilo on the bone. Remove them and any fat before serving
Rogan Josh
700 g lean lamb, cubed - 115 ml plain yoghurt - 1 large onion roughly chopped - 5 cm fresh ginger, grated - 2 large cloves garlic   - 1 tin chopped tomatoes or 400 ml tomato passata - 8 t coconut oil - 1 T fresh coriander     
Spices 1: 2 green cardamom - 3 cloves - 5cm piece of cinnamon or cassia bark - 1/2 t turmeric - 1/2 t chilli powder or flakes (add more to taste if you like it hotter, Lynne adds a fresh chilli) 1 t ground coriander - 1 t ground cumin   
Spices 2: 1 dessert spoon garam masala - 2 t paprika – salt

Mix the lamb with the yoghurt, Spices 1 and a teaspoon of salt. Mix well and leave to marinate for 6 hours or overnight. Put the onion, ginger, garlic and tomato into a blender and purée. Put the oil into a pan and add the onion purée. Put the lamb into another pan without any oil. Cook both for about 20 to 30 minutes. Be careful of the tomato mix, it can bubble like lava. Add salt to taste and stir the meat occasionally to prevent it sticking. Combine the two mixtures and cook until tender. (we do this in our slow cooker on low for a few hours or you can put it into a casserole in the oven at 180C for an hour or till tender). Add more tomato passata or water if the sauce looks a little dry. When ready, add Spices 2 and the fresh chopped coriander . Mix well and a cook for a further 15 minutes. Adjust taste. Serve with basmati rice and sambals and chutneys
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017

MENU's Wine of the Week - Flagstone Writer's Block Pinotage 2004 in a magnum

We were reminded at a tasting of Flagstone wines near the end of last year that we had a magnum of this wine lurking at the bottom of a rack in our cellar. The only thing left to do was to choose the appropriate occasion at which to do it justice

Lynne made a Rogan josh curry for a dinner party so, as Pinotage is a brilliant wine to accompany spicy food, this seemed the perfect choice

It was. Ripe red berry fruit and still fresh acidity, initially touched with a little vanilla from the American oak, which then comes through quite strongly on the finish. It was a great partner for the spicy, but not very hot, Indian dish. Another good example of how Pinotage can reward when it is kept for a few years. The cork was just holding together in the bottle and came out in three pieces, despite very careful handling

Platter gives the current 2014 vintage 4½ stars
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017