We were invited to this year's well-attended Investec Trophy Wine Show Feedback Session, held at Grand Roche in Paarl
A welcome sunny day after all the very bad recent storms
We chatted to many winemakers about the effect that the storms had on their vineyards and the reports were not good,
some very concerning and some alarming. The Wine industry has been very badly affected again this year
The Government has declared it as a National Disaster so there should be some help If there is any money in the kitty
Disaster management authorities have, apparently, stepped in and coordinated a multi-provincial recovery response
Some good Cap Classiques that had been entered into the competition were there for us to sample
Cape Wine Master Bennie Howard chatting to judges JD Pretorius and Heidi Mäkinen MW from Finland
Some canapés were served and enjoyed
Panel Chair Michael Fridjhon opened the session "It was a show of note" he said
"There was a breadth of entries, with the exception of Merlot, which was one big class. Niche whites and reds did very well
Small producers earning extra golds. The entries were 50/50 red and white
with fabulous Cabernets and Shirazes and two golds for Pinot Noirs, which have not won anything for 12 years
2020 looks like a splendid vintage.
Michael referred to closures. One wine appeared off and was replaced; there was very low cork taint
Entries had 62% cork, 19% technical cork and 19% screwcap; the quality of cork has improved
Weight of bottles - we have seen a reduction. The lightest weighed 300gm; 600gm was average
There was one at 750gm and another at 775gm
Malu Lambert had just returned from judging at the Decanter Awards in London and tasted a third of the wines entered
"How many SA wines were there and what did you see there?" asked Michael
She replied, "I've been at the best wine competition in the world with lots of people roaming around tables
It's not controlled, a lack of intention and wonderful panels
Of South African wines, there were two Bordeauxs, two signature red blends which were magic
Young, thoughtful wines, seamless and elegant. They do not appreciate Merlot and Red blends
Stickies must be kept alive and drunk - have them at weekends or they will vanish. Please!
Port and Botrytis wines got the highest golds, scoring high and they get there on their merit and have power
Heidi Mäkinen MW from Finland last judged here in 2017. She said she had usually favoured Spanish wines then,
but has since changed her preference to South African wines
The public needs to be exposed to wineries. She has lots of belief in what we are doing
We don't compare you with Burgundy and Bordeaux; do look at them, but just do your own thing
It was a delight to be tasting Chenins and Chardonnay. They are a good way forward, so push back. Be proud.
One Chardonnay was a world class wine, the best wine on show
Trying Syrahs was something good with a unique style from the Cape
Oz Clarke OBE came here to judge in 1995 and 2013. In 1995 there was immensely good world wine
He was shocked when New Zealand, Australia & California were doing it better
South Africa was not making French-style wines then
A small coterie of rich Cabernets from Hamilton Russell and Thelema were trying to break the mould
We had something special. We wanted to be a New World wine, but from our beginning in 1659 we are Old World
And now we are producing wines to please the consumer; fair prices and approachable and democratic
We are now doing it as a world leader. Syrah has a new style here, not French, Australian or Californian. The Rhône is old
Our Old vines are superb, Rosa Kruger has done a marvellous job, and the niche varietals Cinsault, Carignan, Roussanne, Picpoul etc. are really precious. Spain is not getting the message
Our Chardonnay interpretation is fabulous at last, as is Sauvignon Blanc from the coastal areas
Pinot Noir is not easy to get right, but Hemel and Aarde producers have done so
Our Pinots are not comparable to anywhere else, it is our own style and it is good
The classic best style is Stellenbosch Cabernet where it is not over-extracted; the style produced in Australia is not right
Kenishi Ohashi MW from Tokyo, Japan told us that SA Sauvignon Blanc is very popular in Japan;
they love the fresh palate, especially with grilled food. Good pyrazines too, put importance on the quality level
Steamed rice has water, raw fish has water; the Japanese palate always looks for the pure water taste
Sauvignon Blanc needs the clean style rather than the rich. He has learned a lot
Famous chefs in Japan today recognise the variation and diversity of our Sauvignons Blanc
Old vine Sauvignons Blanc with ripeness, gooseberry, passion fruit and citrus showed lots of dimension,
and are very good for the market, where cheaper wines are decreasing in sales while good wines are increasing,
a good hope for the market
And ageability is so important. We show very beautiful Sauvignons Blanc and old vines are super important
as vines want to live much longer. Respect old vines to live much healthier
In Japan the biggest high end is sparkling wine, Cap Classique. It is very expensive to look at Champagne
Prosecco and Cava lack quality in Japan. We have lots of diversity to taste, to identify palate diversity
Heidi Duminy has really influenced him
Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc are known in the market,
but our fizz is half the price of Champagne and very beautiful wines with depth and freshness, delicacy and crispness
Its future is big in Japan
Cathy van Zyl MW said there were four golds in the current release on her panel and two Pinot Noirs
She found complex style changes; "a rising tide lifts your boats"
Chardonnay is a wonderful category, thanks to their producers for the entries
Where glycerols were overdone and wines over-oaked they were not popular, a flintier style followed
"Please recognise that every style is relevant and has its place" said Oz Clarke
There were only one or two pared back, flinty styles and over-oaked wines. Winemaking has improved so much since 2003
Cape Wine Master Heidi Duminy, Principal of the Cape Wine Academy
Her favourite area is Fizz and she loved working with Kenichi
She was disappointed that there were only 32 Cap Classique entries
Time on the Lees for the last 5 years has been 12 months and the benefits are showing
Chenins and Chardonnays with leesy cores and pristine fruit, base wine and balance,
the wine has phenolic freshness and depth, a sense of place so exciting and interesting
Not fruit weight and dosage. Linearity, nervy raciness, crisp excitement
We are doing it right, it's a great year for bubbles. Two wines over 6gm sugar, most 3-5gm. Hurray!
Twelve had more than 6gm. Fruit is important. Climate change has taken sugars down, with less limestone
We have pivoted, we are ahead of everyone.
A bubbly personality
JD Pretorius, Winemaker at Warwick Wine Estate, Stellenbosch. JD led the Sauvignon Blanc class
Many unique, a range of styles, we do very well. There were four Gold medals, two in the Museum Class
In a 10 year period, how the amount of wooded wine is growing, now 50%
Wood, if handled very well, gives texture and these can become great wines
Unwooded and older wines with pyrazines and green flavours can be complex, tropical fruit the same
Two unwooded wines, both equally good, were very different
Mandla Patson Mathonsi, National Brand Ambassador at Beck Family Estates, who specialise in Cap Classique
He tasted the Cap Classiques with Heidi. An interesting class, only 32 entries, really amazing, better colour
Buyers realise that Rosés are NOT only on the sweeter side, but drier with more intense flavors and less sugar
Nectars came at the end of the tasting, 2-5 were balanced with acidity and stood out on their own
There were four golds in the category (Niche reds only produced three)
The 2017 vintage showed clean freshness, creamy on palate, lees and less sugar
We need this, it's the right direction, we have sunshine
Christian Eedes, Editor at Winemag.co.za
He was tasting New and Old world styles. There were some deeply contentious wines in the category
It's never black and white, the privilege of Old World colonisation starts anyway
In the 1990s we were deluded as how to get where we were. We were so isolated
With political freedom, travel and learning became possible for wine makers. Things changed
Is there a South African style? We are topping global players
At entry level, none do, but at the top, we don't have to apologise or need to
Unique growing conditions, currents, maritime climate, altitude, mineral soils all contribute
We are no longer second tier, we can be pleased, ourselves, with the results
Following the session, we adjourned to the terrace
where there was a good selection to taste of the wines which had been entered and some canapés
Where to start? We discovered some real gems and cannot wait to hear the results of this competition,
which will be announced on June 8th. You will be able to taste the top wines at this year's show
at a date and venue which are yet to be announced
Managing Director of The Reciprocal Wine Trading Company Michael Crossley
and Joris van Almenkerk, owner of Almenkerk wine estate in Elgin, sampling some of the wines
All the stories we have produced since 2012
can be opened from the archive list near the top of the column on the right of this page
