Tuesday, July 11, 2017

MENU's Scandinavian Odyssey on a Shoestring 7. Denmark, going south

We had intended to go to Stockholm but discovered that the toll fees on road from Oslo would be similar to an air fare and we would not be able to afford the trip, so we had a couple of extra days to spare. Lynne looked at the map of Denmark and discovered that the countryside up in the north near Odense, the second largest city, was beautiful and we therefore booked an apartment in a local AirBnB near Bogense. The friendly and sympathetic owner is a school teacher who also runs part of the house as a Bed and Breakfast. We loved talking to her
It is very peaceful and is surrounded by cornfields, green in the early summer and very close to the sea, which is just on the other side of the hill, just a short walk away down that avenue of trees, which is full of cherry and chestnut trees
We had a choice of bedrooms, and chose this simple but cosy room with its view of the garden, rather than the larger imposing one. A very comfortable bed
lose
We had our own lounge, with TV tied into Netflix
It had a bar and a table at which we could work on our computers or eat our meals
Another room could be used to store our suitcases and hang up our clothes. There is a large bathroom and a well fitted kitchen which also contains the large oil fired heating boiler for the house and its central heating
At the back some space to chill and enjoy a glass of wine or beer and some olives. It has a large fairly wild back garden. The owner has dogs and a cat
We found this purpose built bird viewing box near us and spent some time there but the birds were all sheltering from the storm. The coast is full of salt marshes and small bays
Good grazing for cows
A windmill on a small canal
On a rather dreary and cold day we headed to Bogense, which is a small historic fishing village right in the north
Yachts shelter in the harbour while storm clouds gather above. The weather was raw and rather like a Cape winter
The coastline is not very inspiring at this point. But we hear the swimming is very good in summer
Some older fishing boats...
alongside some smart yachts
Looks like one of our southern gulls
Taking Granny for a walk in the wind and rain
A mother duck and her brood
One had to be rescued by John and put back in the water, as he had somehow climbed up onto the dock and lost his mum
It is a very pretty town, with many older traditional houses unchanged for centuries
In a one way system
Timber framed hoses abound
A cafe in the 'High Street"
Pink plastered. The wind had taken the right hand rose bush off the wall, but John saw the owner tying it up again later
The town hall ...
... and a timber framed inn
If you remove the cars, you could be in a town from the 19th Century. The shops have names out of Jane Austen. This one, in a rather fairytale house, is named for its owner Mrs (Fru) Lund and across the street was one named for a Miss (Frøken) Andersen and another for a daughter (Haraldsdottir) which is how they address themselves
Erik Menved's Inn. The inn is the town's oldest house, built in 1543. It was named after King Eric, who renewed the market town rights of Bogense in 1288. Just waiting for the summer crowds to arrive
We explored the high street, got captivated by the things in the local charity shop opposite the bank where John found an almost brand new Tuxedo suit which fitted him perfectly. His current one is near retirement so, for the grand amount of DK 250 (R500) we bought it. He did have space in his suitcase. It will be appearing shortly. Lynne, sadly couldn't find a thing to buy! She is normally the shopper and John the bored onlooker
On the way back in the countryside, we found this traditional Danish church with its stepped gable. We only saw these gables in Denmark
And fields of scarlet poppies
Parked at the roadside, Lynne waving to John, telling him to hurry up
This corn looks different, perhaps it is rye?
Fortuitously, we took a wrong turning and discovered this ancient castle, Gyldensteen Castle
Originally built in 1409, it has been continually expanded and rebuilt. It was bought by the French nobleman Jean Henri Huguetan d'Odyck in 1719 and has been in his family ever since
Its gatehouse
Another traditional building, with the thatch pinned to the roof
Another aspect of the castle
Rural buildings and poppies in the field
Sedge in the salt marshes that looks a bit like our restios and might also be used as thatch
Lots of ducks at this time of the year
The following day we headed into Odense, the home of Hans Christian Andersen, author of so many fairy tales and went in search of his home. This is an older part of the city which has been protected. Tiny picture book houses, so small and low, with cobbled streets, one could almost believe Disney had been involved
They all appear to be occupied
Some historic plaques and post boxes
A restaurant, sadly closed
On the corner Hans Jensen Street is Hans Christian Andersen's house. We peered through the windows - it is furnished with period furniture and artefacts reflecting his stories. The front of the house has been covered by a tourist centre in a huge glass box and a stiff entry price is charged because so many people want to visit..
This house has original bubble glass windows
So pretty, with hollyhocks in front of the houses
Or old pink roses with the most beautiful smells and the house painted to match them
And on the corner, where we managed to find free parking, a white painted timber framed building
We had one more AirBnB night in Denmark in a family house in Kolding
This was our very friendly host, John, who made us feel very much at home. We like Denmark and its friendly people. What struck us was how much of the population is young and vibrant
and onward to a night at Kiel in Germany

A Saturday morning jaunt to De Grendel followed by lunch at the Salt Water Grill in Pinelands

We are members of the De Grendel Wine Club, so we get notifications of the release of their new wines. The latest release was of their Koetshuis Sauvignon Blanc and we were keen to taste it as we do rather like the way Charles Hopkins makes this wine. So, with a friend whose wife was away, we ventured off to Durbanville to find it. We like it so much that it is our wine of the week and Lynne has promoted it to her Birthday wine, it is that good. (Every year Lynne nominates a favourite wine and John responds by buying her a case for her birthday in August)

It looked as though we were the first to visit that chilly morning, but we were soon followed by more people. Usually, there is a superb view of the mountain, but it is mid-winter, the stormy Table Bay was in mist and cloud shrouded our mountain as the beginnings of a North Westerly rain storm began to come in
 Inside the comfortable tasting room, it was warm and cosy and we were very well looked after as we tasted the MCC, the Koetshuis Sauvignon Blanc, the Rosé and the Shiraz. If you belong to the club, all you are required to do is buy at least 12 bottles a year and in exchange you get discounts on wine purchases and in the restaurant and can taste the wines at no charge. A very fair exchange we think.

They currently also have a special on a box of the De Grendel Shiraz with some older vintages
Then it was a quick drive to the Howard Centre in Pinelands for lunch at the Salt Water Grill. Lynne is a member of a Facebook group called Restaurants, the Good, the Bad and the Ugly and this restaurant has had such good reviews since it opened, plus two good family reports, that we were excited to try it out. Their main focus is seafood; they title themselves a Seafood Bistro
We were the first to arrive, expecting to find it busy. Nice Bistro feel with the blue and white check tablecloths
Very friendly and helpful staff who told us about the specials of the day, which we are normally a bit cautious about, as it can point to oversupply at the end of a week, but it can also mean they have access to fresh and seasonal ingredients
We were seated on the enclosed balcony which, thankfully, was sheltered by the poly blinds. It was a very cold day. We took a bottle of wine from our cellar, a Waterford Pecan Stream Chenin Blanc 2015. The corkage charge is R30 a bottle
The bill was reasonable for the dishes ordered
 Lynne decided to order two starters (both prawns and fresh tuna had been sold to us as specials of the day) and have them together as her main course. This was the tempura prawns. Four huge juicy prawns, not in a light tempura batter, but a heavy batter as is usually used on fried fish, accompanied by a sweet chilli sauce and a slice of lemon
The other starter of Tuna Tataki. Lightly seared tuna, some black and white sesame seeds and a rather strange sweetish caramel sauce instead of the ginger, soy, lime or ponzu more usually served with it. The tuna seemed fresh, but was missing that sea flavour, almost as if it had been washed away. Lynne used the chilli sauce from the prawns to add flavour
John ordered Paella. Those deep fried morsels on top are not calamari but rather overcooked and leathery fish goujons. When John told the manager that paella should use saffron and not turmeric, we were told that they do not use saffron in the paella, it is too expensive, but substitute turmeric to get the yellow colour - and indeed many people do, but we wish they wouldn't. Read Saffron in Paella. A good tomato, onion and red pepper sofrito will add those Mediterranean flavours. Sadly, the turmeric was added with a very heavy hand, making this more a Cape Malay curry than a Spanish paella. It does have chorizo added to the seafood. It was a very large portion
Our friend Ronnie ordered the fish stew, which came topped with lots of different seafood and with some toasted bread on the side. It looked promising. Unfortunately, the sauce was completely bland, watery and tasteless and seemed as if it was only half cooked; fish stock had not yet been added. Might it have been destined, with further cooking, for the evening service? We all tasted it and we did complain. To their credit, the restaurant manager took it off our bill

We were disappointed with the meal. The restaurant has its fans
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017