Thursday, April 21, 2016

Wine of the Week Ken Forrester's Dirty Little Secret totally natural Chenin Blanc

Can you afford it? R1000 a bottle. Very limited quantities available. We will tell you all about the launch of this spectacular wine next week. And yes, it is from the Swartland. The experienced winemakers do know how

Buy it from the farm or from one of the better specialist wine merchants, such as Caroline's, Wine Concepts or Norman Goodfellow
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus

Ken Forrester's Dirty Little Secret

This was revealed last week as his latest block buster Natural Chenin Blanc of which only 3,500 bottles have been made and which will sell on the farm for R950 a bottle. And they will sell. Ken always pushes the envelope in quality and in price. And chutzpah and charm. He can, he has proved it. He introduced his first Old Vine Reserve in 1994, then the FMC (Forrester Meinert Chenin) in 2002 at a record price of R160 a bottle, it sold out immediately. With this wine he has shown the young guns that older experienced wine makers can also do fabulous Natural wine from the Swartland. He needed to find a new Chenin vineyard with the same character as Stellenbosch and this is it. The grapes are from old vines planted in l965 in Piekenierskloof.
The label front...
and back. Note: only 12.5 alcohol. We really liked the wine. At first shy on the nose as it was served very cold, then yeasty lees and a whiff of barrel. Golden fruit emerges, loquats, golden delicious apples and ripe persimmon. Long integrated flavours with nice crisp apple acids and wood notes on the end. It changes as it warms up in the glass, growing more aromatic and giving off hints of ginger spice and white pepper, and there is a prickle of citrus on the tongue
Guests were greeted with Ken Forrester Sparklehorse Chenin blanc MCC and a selection of canapés,: cream cheese on crisp fish skin topped with caviar and hoi sin siu mei dumplings filled with vegetables. Fish skin is one of those 50/50 ingredients like fresh coriander. You either love it or loathe it.
(Photo provided by Executive chef Grant Cullingworth)
Ken Forrester reveals his Dirty Little secret
The audience of media listening to how the wine was found and made and tasting it for the first time.
We are still intrigued with the 'One' on the label. Will there be more in the future?
A display of the wine with others of the Ken Forrester wines
He told us that years ago, working with Martin Meinert, it was their ambition to make the best Chenin in the world. They tried for many years and it was slow coming, Then in 2000 Matthew Dukes tasted it and loved it and the FMC was born. Then came the Sparklehorse Chenin MCC in 2012 and everyone has been asking: "SO what is next?" The secret is out, this is it
The menu of small tastes matched with the different flavours, aromas and nuances in the wine. They were very complex and we didn’t quite understand where some of them were coming from
A mini sweet waffle with labneh cheese and white chocolate. We couldn’t detect any caviar. Then the very creamy smooth foie gras on a circle of sweet almond nougat, topped with a herb and some light cake crumbs
Another controversial taster, chick peas with caramelised aubergine. Only, they were not caramelised and were rather slimy. We didnt see the link to the chenin
Exec Chef Grant Cullingworth of the Westin Executive Club telling us about the tasters he prepared
The generation of bottles of Teresa (named for Ken's wife), the Noble Late Harvest Dessert wine, now called T
The second round of tasters: A tempura prawn topped with a Sriracha chilli maresco sauce and a tiny cold poached quail egg on top of a smoked salmon maki roll
And the final pair, a mini taco topped with crayfish pico de gallo salsa on guacamole and a mini Harissa lamb donut dredged in dukkah
The team: Ken with the chefs, PRO Nicolette Waterford and a friend
Ken with his lovely girls: Nicolette Waterford, Aletté van Vuuren, Market Development & Communication, and Ina Smith who manages the Chenin Blanc Association of South Africa. Ken is currently the Chairman of the Association
It's all about the wine. Thank you for the tasting and the bottle to take home for a special occasion soon
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus

Diemersdal launches their new Wild Horseshoe, a skin fermented Sauvignon blanc

Lynne asked Cellar master Thys Louw if he had ever considered adding any Semillon to his excellent Sauvignon Blanc. "Heavens, no", he said ..."then I would have 10 Sauvignons!". The Wild Horseshoe is his 9th iteration and it is a cracker. It's their first skin-fermented natural wild yeast Sauvignon Blanc; fermented on the skins for 96 hours and kept on the lees in 3rd and 4th fill barrels for 10 months. It tasted disgusting until they transferred it into tank and then it got itself together and changed in style to produce this clean crisp elegant wine. (Our wine of the Week this week) All Diemersdal wines are grown on the Estate and Sauvignon Blancs make up 50% of their production. The grapes come from a vineyard planted in 1982, older than Thys. The launch was followed by a wonderful lunch, at a restaurant to add to your list to visit
Cellar master Thys Louw of Diemersdal in Durbanville
The tasting and lunch which followed took place at the long tables in the restaurant
The wine about to be launched
The bottle has only horseshoes on the front, all the information is on the back label
The label inspiration was drawn from the collection of horseshoes collected in the vineyard by Thys’ wife which hang in a frame in the restaurant
After the wine tasting, we were presented with a very, very good lunch cooked by Diemersdal Farm Eatery chef Martin de Kock. He has worked under top chefs George Jardine and Peter Tempelhoff. He is producing very fine food. This is the menu
Other Diemersdal Sauvignon Blancs were served with the lunch, including the 2015 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve. The canapé on a spoon was duck three ways: duck breast, creamy duck parfait and crisp duck skin
The starter of 3 experiences: Cauliflower 'cheese cake with chimichuri, topped with dehydrated onion; , a rich thick and creamy mussel chowder and a pan fried monkfish tail on sweet corn purée, topped with a piece of crisp cured pork
Thys telling us how he made the wine
On offer with lunch
A main course of slow cooked pork belly, crisp crackling, a perfectly cooked Scotch egg, braised cabbage, roasted apple slices, persimmon purée and pomegranate, came with a good jus
The other main course was a crown of free range chicken with a real farm fresh flavour. It was cooked sous vide, so was perfectly moist and came with a small chicken pot pie, braised baby leeks, fresh spinach, seared onions, truffle and a good bordelaise sauce
Dessert: a crisp buttery thin pastry filled with frangipane and quince with a chestnut and vanilla ice cream topped with an almond tuile. Rich, fruity and very satisfying . We can't wait to return for more excellent wine and great food
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus

Backsberg celebrates their Centenary with an end-of-harvest lunch

The rags to riches story of the Back family is inspiring. The original Charles Back arrived as a penniless refugee from Lithuania in 1902 and worked his way up from bicycle delivery 'boy' to owning his own butchery. He and his wife were offered the farm Klein Babylonstoren on the Paarl-facing slopes of the Simonsberg mountain in 1916 and jumped at it. They sold the butchery and became farmers. They farmed some grain, some live stock, some fruit and in time, some wine grapes. The farm was renamed Backsberg. Charles Back also bought the farm Fairview in Agter Paarl and he left a farm to each of his sons, Sidney (Backsberg) and Cyril (Fairview). Today cousins Michael and Charles Back own these two farms. After years of the hard work of four generations, the Back family have grown very successful and produce wines of good reputations that sell. This week current CEO Simon Back (son of Michael) invited some media and wine trade to a lunch to celebrate the end of harvest in Backsberg's new restaurant, This was to mark the 100th Anniversary of the Back family making wine at Backsberg and taste some of the newly released wines with lunch
Pierre Jordaan of Backsberg chats to Alan Mullins MW as we enjoy a glass of Backsberg Brut MCC 2010. The food throughout the lunch was a feast of delights. Canapés were small falafels with a warm chilli sauce and inspired crisp potato wedges topped with herbed cream cheese
A long table had been set up on the terrace in front of the new restaurant
The restaurant has a great mixture of old and new and feels very relaxed, spacious and comfortable.
We love the ceiling of barrel staves and that table in front of the fine is one to go for in the middle of winter. They serve lunch outdoors if the weather is favourable and indoors beside a roaring fire in the chilly months. They do spit braais every Sunday. when the three course set menu is R225 per person. Musician Guy Feldman provides live guitar music
PRO for Backsberg Emil Joubert
Simon Back, 4th generation Backsberg CEO, welcomes us and tells us some of the history of the farm and about the wines and the future
The starter was divided into four small dishes. Not tapas but tastes said the chef to Lynne. A warm and smooth sweet potato soup, a lovely smoked snoek Samoosa that tasted of sea food with a sweet dipping sauce; a slice of spciy chorizo, nicely ripe and ready Languedoc cheese, bread, Humus and piquanté pepper; Honey roasted baby beet on goats milk cheese with pomegranate and rocket, all were enjoyable
This was served with two wines, the well wooded (100% new barrels) 2015 Sonop Chardonnay, rich and creamy, long layers of fruit and depth with apples, yellow plums, apricots and a finish of toasted brioche
and the Family Reserve White blend, an enchanting blend of Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay, Viognier and Semillon. It is a wooded wine but we did not find it over wooded. It is perfumed with notes of flowers, fruit and cigar box. The oily Semillon and nice acidity lights up the palate then the Chardonnay apples and pears take over for a long end. A food wine
Simon Back
Chef Wilhelm Mareé came out to talk about the food
All the wines now have the Backsberg Centenary label. The Family Reserve red a classic Bordeaux blend was served with the main course. It is big, but supple and elegant. We also tasted the Klein Babylonstoren classic Merlot, with incense and violets, cassis and cherries with soft tannins and chocolate and liquorice on the end. Ready to drink now but has age to last, a good SA merlot. and the Pumphouse Shiraz which is like Rolls Royce backfiring very spicy puffs of balsamic cherries, spice and liquorice, the perfect match for the lamb pie main (Photo © Jan Laubscher, Winetimes.co.za)
Michael Fridjhon was the guest speaker and he reminisced about his long 40 year working relationship with Backsberg. He worked for Benny Goldbergs, the first wine supermarket in Johannesburg, when Backsberg started selling Estate wine in 1969
He reminded us that Backberg were the founding members of Estate wine in SA and founding partners in modern wine innovation. They still are an Estate and all the wine they produce is grown on the farm. They are about the integrity of terroir but not at the expense of good value
The main course of a very generous Moroccan style lamb pie wrapped in filo pastry, with a sticky Klein Babylonstoren wine jus, sweet carrots, minted fig chutney and fresh fig
(Photo © Jan Laubscher, Winetimes.co.za)
Backsberg has released a limited edition Centenary Selection of six wines hand-crafted to perfection by winemaker Alicia Rechner: one bottle each of Roussanne / Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Cape White Blend 2015, Cape Red Blend 2015, Sangiovese / Barbera 2014, Grenache / Shiraz 2014, Malbec 2014 for R1170.  The carton is covered with Backsberg labels from the past. Backsberg also produce a Kosher wine Range: Sparkling MCC Brut; Chardonnay; Pinotage; Merlot; Kiddush. They are made under the auspices of the Cape Town Beth Din and the OU of the United States. The wines are Mevushal and Kosher for Passover
Now you are spoiling us. A glass of the Backsberg Sydney Back Brandy to go with dessert
Lynne's brandy was spilled on her Cape Brandy pudding, next to it is shortbread topped with granadilla cheese cake, then chocolate roulade topped unusually with beetroot, and finally some Dalewood cheese with a fruit preserve, something for everyone
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus