Friday, September 09, 2016

This Week's MENU. Silverthorn MCC vertical, Thelema tasting, Elgin Shiraz, Seductive Sauvignons, Ridgeback Wines, Spring flowers, New Benguela Cove winemaker, Spaghetti with Oil and Garlic, Sutherland Cabernet Petit Verdot

A blaze of Spring daisies
Another full week, with more news than we had time to include in this week's MENU, so some will have to wait until next week to be included in our ongoing story. Winemag.co.za's Riscura White blends is one of them. We'll write more, with photographs next week, but you can see the results here. Proof that this country can produce stunningly good white blends. We also enjoyed a private wine tasting of Burgundies and South African equivalents. One of the Chardonnays in the tasting has been awarded a score of 96/100 in Tim Atkin MW's latest list of top South African Wines. From a Hemel en Aarde farm we visited earlier in the year. We'll keep you guessing until next week....
Silverthorn MCC vertical tasting with John & Karen Loubser     This has to be the highlight this week. Occasionally, we write about tasting South Africa's version of Champagne (made to exactly the same method and called in South Africa Méthode Cap Classique or MCC because, justifiably, Champagne guards its brand). We do not have the same climate or terroir, but we do have winemakers who have studied the process in depth, made these wines for many years and so understand the process that they are producing superb sparkling wines. John Loubser is one of these. It was very exciting to be invited with other members of the media and wine trade to taste several different vintages of his Silverthorn wines at his home. It was a very rare opportunity to taste so many vintages of great MCC

Thelema and Sutherland trade tasting at Auslese      Thelema, situated on the slopes of the Simonsberg at the top of the Helshoogte Pass, is one of our premium wine farms and its wines have a great reputation. They also make wines in cooler Elgin, marketed as Sutherland wines, and these are also excellent. We went to taste these wines, some of them new season releases, last week at Auslese in the Gardens where chef owner Harald Bresselschmidt delighted John with his food pairings
Elgin Shiraz Tweet up      Just a quick mention of another good tasting of some of Elgin's Shirazes this week. Lynne often struggles to recognise Shiraz, with its many varied taste profiles coming from all over our winelands, often terroir related, but sometimes because the makers just have no clue of what they are doing. The Elgin wines we tasted do not fall into this trap; they are all, in their own way, identifiably Shiraz, even though some have a definite European profile and others more of the warm southern hemisphere in the bottle. We tasted eleven, starting with four older wines from 2011 and 12, then four from 2013 and the final three from 2014 and 15. The Sutherland Syrah (2011) always stands out, we have bought various vintages again and again. One to watch is Moya Meaker 2012, made by a Frenchman, Damien Landouar. Richard Kershaw's Clonal 2013 Syrah is outstanding, very Rhône style, if expensive, and we loved the Almenkerk Syrah 2013 with its potential to cellar. Iona never fails to impress and the Solace 2014 scored well as did South Hills 2015. So if you want to drink good Shiraz, look to Elgin. You can follow us on Twitter at @mainingmenu
Seductive Sauvignons Festival      This annual opportunity to taste some of the best newly released Sauvignons Blanc and the current vintages of the Cabernet Sauvignons was hosted last Friday by Mike Bampfield Duggan of Wine Concepts at the Vineyard Hotel. It always is a serious and fun tasting. We attempt to taste as many as we can on the evening, but there are many new wines to taste and, even if we did speed tasting (which we don’t), there are lots of questions one wants to ask the winemakers
A visit to Ridgeback Wines      We hadn't visited Ridgeback since 2013 and they invited us to return and taste their wines recently, so we decided to combine the visit with a trip to see the Spring flowers up the West Coast last Saturday, which was a lovely sunny day. The tasting was followed by lunch on the deck and then a chat with the owner Vernon Cole and his daughter. They are originally from Zimbabwe where the Ridgeback dog is famous.. It was a very friendly tasting and we were ably led through the wines, which are made by Toit Wessels, by Pieter van Straaten. Then we motored off through the Malmesbury and Darling countryside to spot the daisies
Spring flowers near Darling     As we were in the area last Saturday, we were able to drive from our appointment at Ridgeback through the very green countryside through Malmesbury and Darling, looking for spring flowers which we had heard were spectacular this year. They were good, but perhaps the best are inside the Postberg Nature reserve
More breaking News    Benguela Cove Lagoon Wine Estate has appointed renowned winemaker Johann Fourie as its head winemaker. Johann, formerly head winemaker at KWV, was Diner’s Club Winemaker of the Year in 2015. And that’s just the South African brief – Fourie will also be lending his expertise to and spending considerable time at the owner Penny Streeter OBE’s UK property in West Sussex: Manning’s Heath Golf Club & Wine Estate, where the focus is production of patrician sparkling wine
What’s on the MENU this week      OK, we are great advocates of Banting; we know some of you are too. We have been doing it for nearly two years now, not intensely with our limitations when eating out at catered events, and really feel the benefits, if not the weight loss. But sometimes you watch the Food Channel, find a great Italian chef doing pasta and it is too tempting not to try. So, last night for the first time in two years, Lynne cooked a pasta dish. It is the easiest and quickest dish to make and it can be straight from your larder. Preferably use thin spaghetti if possible, but it is not essential. Quantities are for two
Really good Extra Virgin Olive oil, at least a 1/3rd of a cup or more - 2 or 3 large cloves of garlic, thinly sliced - 1 t finely chopped red chilli or chilli flakes -Spaghettini or Angel hair pasta - Flaked salt - freshly ground black pepper - 2 T chopped parsley or oregano - 35 to 40 g finely grated Parmesan or Grana Padano cheese
Boil a pot of really salty water - it should taste like sea water. In an frying pan, cover the base with a layer of good green olive oil (at least a 1/3 of a cup, and put it on a low heat. Add the garlic and the chilli and cook gently until the garlic is just beginning to take on some colour. Do not let it brown, it will be bitter. At the same time add the pasta to the water and cook until it is al dente. Just before it is ready, take a 1/3rd of a cup of the pasta water and add it to the garlic and chilli oil. Stir rapidly till it begins to emulsify, this is the sauce. Drain the pasta and put it into the oil and stir. Add a little more pasta water if you have no sauce. Add seasoning and stir in the parsley. Transfer to bowls for serving and add the cheese just before you eat. It is that simple. Enjoy with a healthy salad of mixed vegetables
On our Wine MENU this week     A wine we tasted at the Thelema Sutherland trade tasting that so impressed us and indeed many others in the trade who were attending, including some top sommeliers.
Thelema's Sutherland 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot  Not only is this wine a steal at the price, but its perfumed, enticing nose, full of violets and fruit, makes one want to dive into this silky soft wine with its nice kick of warmth, spicy dark fruit and long, long length. It will be on quite a few wine lists, we suspect





8th September 2016
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Thursday, September 08, 2016

Thelema's Sutherland 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot

A wine we tasted at the Thelema Sutherland trade tasting that so impressed us and indeed many others in the trade who were attending, including some top sommeliers

Not only is this wine a steal at the price, but its perfumed, enticing nose, full of violets and fruit, makes one want to dive into this silky soft wine with its nice kick of warmth, spicy dark fruit and long, long length. It will be on quite a few wine lists, we suspect
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

On the MENU this week: Spaghetti with Oil and Garlic (Aglio et Olio)

OK, we are great advocates of Banting; we know some of you are too. We have been doing it for nearly two years now , not intensely with our limitations when eating out at catered events and really feel the benefits, if not the weight loss. But sometimes you watch the Food channel and find a great Italian chef doing pasta and it is too tempting not to try. So last night, for the first time in two years, Lynne cooked a pasta dish. It is the easiest and quickest dish to make and it can be straight from your larder. Preferably use thin spaghetti if possible, but it is not essential. Quantities are for two
Spaghetti with Oil and Garlic (Aglio et Olio)
Really good Extra Virgin Olive oil, at least a 1/3rd of a cup or more - 2 or 3 large cloves of garlic, thinly sliced - 1 t finely chopped red chilli or chilli flakes -Spaghettini or Angel hair pasta - Flaked salt - freshly ground black pepper - 2 T chopped parsley or oregano - 35 to 40 g finely grated Parmesan or Grana Padano cheese
Boil a pot of really salty water - it should taste like sea water. In an frying pan, cover the base with a good layer of good green olive oil (at least a 1/3 of a cup, and put it on a low heat. Add the garlic and the chilli and cook gently until the garlic is just beginning to take on some colour. Do not let it brown, it will be bitter. At the same time add the pasta to the water and cook until it is al dente. Just before it is ready, take a 1/3rd of a cup of the pasta water and add it to the garlic and chilli oil. Stir rapidly till it begins to emulsify, this is the sauce. Drain the pasta and put it into the oil and stir. Add a little more pasta water if you have no sauce. Add seasoning and stir in the parsley. Transfer to bowls for serving and add the cheese just before you eat. It is that simple. Enjoy with a healthy salad of mixed vegetables
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Elgin Shiraz Tweet up

Just a quick mention of another good tasting of some of Elgin's Shirazes this week. Lynne often struggles to recognise Shiraz, with its many varied taste profiles coming from all over our winelands, often terroir related, but sometimes because the makers just have no clue of what they are doing
The Elgin wines we tasted do not fall into this trap; they are all, in their own way, identifiably Shiraz, even though some have a definite European profile and others more of the warm southern hemisphere in the bottle. We tasted eleven, starting with four older wines from 2011 and 12, then four from 2013 and the final three from 2014 and 15. The Sutherland Syrah (2011) always stands out, we have bought various vintages again and again. One to watch is Moya Meaker 2012, made by a Frenchman, Damien Landouar. Richard Kershaw's Clonal 2013 Syrah is outstanding, very Rhône style, if expensive, and we loved the Almenkerk Syrah 2013 with its potential to cellar. Iona never fails to impress and the Solace 2014 scored well as did South Hills 2015. So if you want to drink good Shiraz, look to Elgin. You can follow us on Twitter at @mainingmenu
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

New winemaker at Benguela Cove is Johann Fourie

Benguela Cove Lagoon Wine Estate has appointed renowned winemaker Johann Fourie as its head winemaker. Johann, formerly head winemaker at KWV, was Diner’s Club Winemaker of the Year in 2015
And that’s just the South African brief – Fourie will also be lending his expertise to and spending considerable time at the owner Penny Streeter OBE’s UK property in West Sussex: Manning’s Heath Golf Club & Wine Estate, where the focus is on the production of patrician sparkling wine
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Thelema and Sutherland Trade wine tasting at Auslese


Thelema, situated on the slopes of the Simonsberg at the top of the Helshoogte Pass, is one of our premium wine farms and its wines have a great reputation. They also make wines in cooler Elgin, marketed as Sutherland wines, and these are also excellent. We went to taste these wines, some of them new season releases, last week at Auslese in the Gardens where chef owner Harald Bresselschmidt delighted John with his food pairings
Auslese is a function venue you may hire from Chef Harald Bresselschmidt. It is in Hope Street in the Gardens
Thelema’s MCC Brut 2013 gets us off to a good start
Pardon Taguzu, Sommelier of Aubergine Restaurant and Auslese, tries some of the Brut with Ralph Reynolds
Mark Herd of Sunset Beach wines chats about the Thelema White wines. We liked their crisp and zingy Verdelho 2015, probably profuse in the future of the Cape with global warming. Ed's Reserve Chardonnay 2014 always awakens interest with this interesting 'muscat' clone of chardonnay which give is perfume, litchi and zestiness
Paired with these white wines was a seafood paella
Many of the top sommeliers were at this tasting
Another pairing for the white wines was this Potato parfait and goats cheese. We found it went well with the Sutherland 2013 Viognier/Roussanne. A southern wine for summer, filled with apricots, orange blossom and warm citrus. The Sutherland Chardonnay 2014 deserves to end up on several wine lists. Fresh citrus flavours with toasty oak and a long fresh finish makes it a great food wine
This was the most popular pairing of the tasting, everyone was raving about how well the Rieslings, the Semillon 2013 Late Harvest and the 2013 Vin de Hel Muscat Late Harvest went with these spicy Thai fish cakes. The delicate off-dry rose petal Muscat de Frontignan is full of litchi and the Semillon has thick honey, apricots, ripe figs and cream; made for the gods
The Sutherland white wines
Time to move to the reds
The Thelema reds were paired with this lamb stuffed ravioli. All are good, but of special note is The Mint 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon. Such an elegant, elevated wine, full of cassis and plums with dark After Eight mint chocolate on the end. The 2012 Rabelais has a perfumed nose from the Petite Verdot and is soft and sweet with some spice and with warmth on the end. A food wine
To another table to taste the Sutherland reds, which were paired with this classic Quail coq au vin; unusual with orange beetroot which added a lot to the flavour
Winemaker Rudi Schultz was busy on this popular table showcasing the Sutherland reds. We often buy the Sutherland Shiraz and think the 2011 is worth laying down for a while. Then we found a gem and we were not the only ones, it was the most talked about wine at the tasting: Sutherland Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot 2011. Perfumed with violets from the Petit Verdot, it is silky soft on the palate, then comes a nice kick of warm spice, dark fruits and lots and lots of length. Some is on order! The Pinot Noir is packed with cherries
Two well known Waterfront Sommeliers: Tatiana Marcetteau of The Cape Grace and Luvo Ntezo from The One and Only
Michelle van Eeden, Sales Manager, laughing at something John said
Francois Rautenbach of Singita gets some of that 2014 Riesling
Chef/Owner Harald Bresselschmidt in his kitchen with his chefs
The charming Cabernet Sauvignon/Petite Verdot is our wine of the Week in MENU
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Wednesday, September 07, 2016

Silverthorn MCC vertical tasting with John & Karen Loubser

This has to be the highlight this week. Occasionally, we write about tasting South Africa's version of Champagne (made to exactly the same method and called in South Africa Méthode Cap Classique or MCC because, justifiably, Champagne guards its brand).  We do not have the same climate or terroir, but we do have winemakers who have studied the process in depth, made these wines for many years and so understand the process that they are producing superb sparkling wines. John Loubser is one of these.  It was very exciting to be invited with other members of the media and wine trade to taste several different vintages of his Silverthorn wines at his home. It was a very rare opportunity to taste so many vintages of great MCC
John and Karen live in a beautiful home set like an eyrie high above Lakeside, with the most enviable views. John is the MD of Steenberg Vineyards, which belongs to the Graham Beck family. Silverthorn is his own label with the grapes grown on their family farm in Robertson. All these wines are MCC
We had four flights plus the non-vintage Genie, made from Shiraz, on arrival; it sparkles with strawberry notes. Then on to Flight 1, four vintages from 2014 back to 2011 of The Green Man, 100% Chardonnay. The 2011 won the Trophy for best sparkling wine in the 2014 Six Nations Wine Challenge and shared the Trophy for  Best Wine on Show with Dog Point (New Zealand). It is sophisticated and complex with toasted coconut marshmallow on the nose and crisp apples and citrus on the palate. Lean and crisp is good in a champagne glass. The others all show well with similar characteristics to the 2014 (released that day) showing some spicy promise
John has kept a small vinoteque, so the second flight was another four vintages of The Green Man from 2010 back to 2007. These wines are showing very well and do show their differences with the vintages. This spends 29 months on the lees and has 10% oak contact. The earliest is classic with perfume and warm brioche on the nose and crisp, lean citrus favours and is still restrained, which means that it can last and last. These wines all have that oyster shell, gun smoke and petrichor (rain on hot stones) aromas which undoubtedly come from the lime-rich rocky shale soils in which they are grown
He started making bubbly in 2004 (first release in 2006), but has not held back any until 2007. This year he will be bottling some of the Green Man in magnums
Here Mike Bampfield Duggan of Wine Concepts, Tarryn Vincent of Reciprocal Trading and Tracey van Maaren, who represents Silverthorn in her portfolio, enjoy the flight
John is ably assisted by his talented wife, Karen. They are joint owners of Silverthorn; the farm was inherited from her father, Joachim Rieck, who bought it in 1976. John's brother Steven and former investment banker Brett Nagel are also involved and this has enabled them to increase production
Then came flight 3. Four vintages of the Special Cuvée Jewel Box; 2012 back to 2009. The three earlier vintages had 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir but this has now changed to 70%/30%. The Chardonnay goes through malolactic fermentation in older barrels. John likes the clean minerality it brings to the wine. They have sourced the Pinot Noir grapes from Darling and Stellenbosch; it is not wooded. The 2009 was creamy with brandy notes on the nose and whiffs of jasmine and citrus. Creamy on the palate with crisp minerality and long end - it kept on delighting. The latest release, the 2012, is also creamy with a faint whiff of smoke and a zing of citrus and soft raspberries follows, very full and satisfying . These wines are kept on the lees for 42 months and are beautifully bone dry
Then it was time for some canapés and with these we tasted two versions of the Big Dog, John Loubser's Cape Winemakers Guild Auction Reserve wine. This is a special hand-picked, whole bunch pressed blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, kept for 53 months on the lees. The 2011 is this year's offering in the auction, which will be held at Spier on the 1st of October. They are indeed big wines. The 2011 is full of golden fruit with flinty gun smoke on the nose, prickly clean dry limes, lemons and green apple on the palate. It has miles to go.. It went so well with the Osciètre prestige Caviar they served as a treat
These two work so well together
Just a small pearl spoonful is all you need, soft sea-filled bubbles to go with crisp bubbles and lime
Then time for lunch - some fresh Saldanha Bay oysters
Tomato tarts with cheese and crisp, buttery pastry
Charcuterie platters with top quality meats
Dill gravadlax
Salami and good fresh bread, served with a great Epoisses cheese absolutely at the perfect point of ripeness. There were also other cheeses, fruit, nuts and, for 'dessert' Turkish delight, tiny almond biscuits and other sweetmeats. It was a feast and we drank more of the Silverthorn wines. It appeared that, for many, the wine of choice was the 2009 Green Man, but others were appreciated. These do go so well with food.
John talking about his wines
Helping ourselves to the buffet in the kitchen
The wines we tasted
John and Karen’s daughter Fain with the other Big Dog, the family pet, an enthusiastic and friendly Rottweiler
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016