Thursday, September 07, 2017

Matjiesfontein and The Lord Milner Hotel, continued

We awoke refreshed to see nice weather, much warmer than we thought it would be. We went down to breakfast to find that there are two options, or both combined
You can have just the buffet breakfast, or something cooked of the menu or both. We started with some juice, black coffee - real, from a dispenser, a little weaker than we like it - and a very good mini croissant from the buffet
John then chose Open Karoo Omelette
 Lynne ordered scrambled egg with smoked salmon
The dining room looks bright and fresh in the morning
We needed to do some work on MENU after breakfast and were shown to the lovely suite of Gold lounges in the hotel where we both found plugs and desks and set up on our computers. John was successful , Lynne was not as the WiFi was still very weak and wobbly
There are all the original features and more antiques
Beautiful tiled floors
And in the music room, a harp and a spinet
These are some of the cottages you can stay in
More rooms are available in them, with a self catering option
We then went off for a walk around town to explore
The village Post office is now a small gift shop
The local fire truck
And the famous red London bus. These were shipped out from England in the 1950s Lynne used to go to school and college on one each day from Sea Point. It was nice to see where this one has ended up. It is used here for the shortest tour in the country which takes place each evening at 6 pm (5.30 in winter)
More wagons outside the Museum at the railway station
Wonderful historic petrol pumps outside the Coffee House
The old Lodge is now a farm stall
Inside the Coffee Shop
The courtyard at the back of the Coffee House
Matjiesfontein nestling in its valley beneath the uplifted rolling mountains in late afternoon. We visited Sutherland in the afternoon. See here
Waiting for the train on the platform
And Rovos Rail Pride of Africa arrived on time. It is a luxury train filled with wealthy overseas tourists and some locals doing a trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg and Pretoria and sometimes to the Kruger Game Park
Tour Guide and Pub piano player Johnnie Theunissen was there to welcome them with a blast of his bugle and many got off the train for about an hour to see Matjiesfontein and join the bus tour
On we get!
Upstairs, of course
Still with original advertising?
Tour of the village over, Johnnie summons us for a tour of the Hotel which ended in the Laird’s Arms pub
The bus heads off, back to its parking spot, 50 metres away!
Olive Schreiners' Cottage. She lived her in the 1890's
Early evening sing song time in the Pub
This beautiful painting c.1900 graces the front reception area
It is by British painter Blanche Mathewes 1860-1914
Time for dinner. We both went for the same starter, a twice cooked cheese soufrée in a herb cream sauce
John has the steak with chips and salad
Lynne had the Beer Battered fish with chips.. tartar sauce and a small salsa. The batter was very golden and crisp
John went quite mad and had this icky gooey chocolate milkshake in a jug, called Brownie Freak Shake. Then off to bed with our books for an early night. It's this Karoo air.
We had another great night's sleep and then it was time for breakfast. This time we both had the David Rawdon special: A classic egg, bacon, tomato, mushrooms, baked bean and very good sausage, with coffee toast and marmalade hit the spot. And then it was time to pack up and leave the Lord Milner and Matjiesfontein. What an enjoyable way to spend two days. We do hope to come back one day
At last a sight of green. The very welcome rain clouds were gathering over the bud breaking vineyards and mountains at De Doorns. Those mountain ranges do look exactly like huge waves gathering to break on the shore
We stopped at De Wet on the outskirts of Worcester, you pass it as you come out of the mountains from De Doorns. We had never been here before
We did a lovely tasting of their wines, were suitable impressed and three cases of wine went into the car. The 2015 Chenin is on special at R30 a bottle and is very good indeed
Then onwards across the valley towards Goudini Cellars And du ToitsKloof cellars. We bought some 2015 wooded Chardonnay at Goudini and 12 bottles of our favourite Nebbiolo from du Toits Kloof winery. Serious rain was beginning to fall in the du ToitsKloof pass and also on Paarl and Stellenbosch as we drove home. . So welcome

Visiting Sutherland and the Southern African Astronomical Observatory

We would have liked to have gone to see the stars at night from SAAO at Sutherland, but driving 110 kilometres in the dark there and back from Matjiesfontein was not for us. Another time, we hope to stay in Sutherland and do that tour. The observatory is so high that it has the best view of the skies in South Africa and it is far away from any light pollution

We had booked to do the afternoon tour which costs only R65 and takes place each day. NB pre-booking on line is mandatory. Book online: tours.saao.ac.za. And do be punctual, they will not wait. It is a rather long drive of 110 kilometres, but well worth the trip. As you travel through this unforgiving landscape, you have to wonder about the people who traversed this land in the past. Those who travelled by foot or horse may have been courageous, but when it comes to getting wagons and oxen over these unrelenting valleys and mountains, one has to ask WHY!? Many of them did not know what was over the next rise or have maps. It was indeed a huge trek. Now you have a very good tarred road which dips and winds its way through the hilly landscape
Sutherland is a typical South African Karoo town, nestled in the valley, surrounded by hills and mountains
We stopped off at the grandly named Sutherland Mall and in Die Trommel and bought some presents
There are several tourist restaurants, but all of them closed for lunch on a Tuesday? Perhaps they just get visitors at the weekend. We had a good breakfast at the Lord Milner in Matjiesfontein, so could skip lunch
We also visited the best – and only - butcher in Sutherland and bought some very good lamp and beef. We travel with a small fridge in the car on long trips “just in case”. The hotel was happy to keep the meat in their fridge overnight and we left the next day. The price of lamb in the country is half that in Cape Town and Karoo lamb is legendary; the sheep feed on wild herbs as they graze
The Tourist Centre at SAAO. The observatories are 15 kilometres from Sutherland
Before we left in our cars for the observatories, our tour guide, Francois, took us through the exhibits at the centre; some are interactive
This is a model of the SALT telescope in the Tourist Centre
There are several different observatories, many are owned and run by other countries, often automatically and electronically. These are all optical observatories
The new South African part of the SKA radio telescope will be installed near Carnarvon. The SKA (Square Kilometre Array) project is an international effort to build the world’s largest radio telescope, with a square kilometre (one million square metres) of collecting area. It will be co-located in Africa and in Australia. It will have an unprecedented scope in observations, exceeding the image resolution quality of the Hubble Space Telescope by a factor of 50 times, whilst also having the ability to image huge areas of sky in parallel

First, we visited the Elizabeth Telescope, named after Queen Elizabeth
This is the working "eye" of the telescope but, nowadays, the astronomer sits in a room close by and he operates the telescope by computer
This is its building
The window is open, so something is being studied


Next we went to view SALT
The wind was howling on the top of the mesa at up to 68 Km/h. They cannot operate if it is higher than 60, so they were hoping that it would drop by evening when the stars come out and everywhere is pitch dark
The Southern African Large Telescope SALT uses an array of 91 1-metre hexagonal metres with a maximum diameter of 11 metres. With a light-gathering surface of 77.6 square metres, SALT’s giant mirror array makes it the largest single optical telescope in the southern hemisphere, and one of the largest in the world. The construction phase was completed at the end of 2005 and, from 2006 to 2009, it entered a period of commissioning and performance verification. Since September 2011, observing is now in full swing and the telescope is finally realising its huge potential as Africa’s Giant Eye on the Universe
Onward and up into the Roggeberg Mountains, the air becomes fresher, cleaner and thinner. It is 1800 metres above sea level
A poem by South African Poet Jan Crafford in Afrikaans, seen in the SALT observatory
 Star Mountain
At Star Mountain, there at Sutherland
In the thin white air, from the high wind
They shall find the furthest stars
There above you, my old, Karoo
As we entered the observatory where the huge Salt telescope is sited, Lynne was lucky enough to see it being positioned for the night viewing. It is enormous; the whole room can rotate as can the huge hexagonal mirror, 11 metres across. It is actually made up of 91 individual 1m hexagonal mirrors
From below
It does look rather otherworldly
A distant mesa or kopje
The road down from SAAO
Trees planted to give shade or protection from the wind
Some sheep on the near ground and another kopje on our way back
A small water tank in the middle of the Karoo
A gazanea daisy struggling in the rough ground.
A typical Karoo road
SAAO from below
Back into Sutherland
A ram going to make some sheep happy and more Karoo lamb for us
On the road home, there are just a few farms
and this is a classic water pumping windmill. Water is scarce; they receive very little rain and farmers have to drill deep boreholes to fill their dams