Thursday, August 16, 2018

Launch of Mensa - a new bestseller with a twist

An invitation from Overhex wines to taste and experience their new range of wines called Mensa. A first in South Africa is the interactive labels. Scan them with your phone and the secret story of the wine is revealed. And there is no barcode in sight. The wine is named after grandmother Emmarentia Cornelia, whose nickname it was, and has no connection to the organisation for high IQ people
The launch was held at The Library, a restaurant in Kloof Street
This is the library, where we sat comfortably while we tasted the wines, ate some good food and heard the story from Caroline van Schalkwyk
One of the other rooms of this restaurant
Gerhard van der Wath, Executive Chairman/Owner tells us about the wines. There are five wines planned in the portfolio. We tasted the Chardonnay Pinot Noir, the Sauvignon Blanc and the Cabernet Sauvignon. They will go into the mid-price range market at R70 to R80 a bottle
Winemaker Ben Snyman talks about the wines. The Sauvignon Blanc has tropical passion fruit, gooseberries and herbal notes. The Chardonnay (80%) and Pinot Noir (20%) blush wine, he says, has backbone; he adds texture and layers of fruit. You can taste both varietals, the wooding is quite noticeable and the Pinot Noir speaks first. The Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 spends 8 months in oak and is from Bot Rivier, Swartland and Breedekloof grapes. It has sweet oak and the usual Cabernet flavours
Author Amy Heydenrych was there to sign copies of her novel "Shame on You". We were all given a copy by Overhex
The wines all use Amorim Cork's Helix cork closure, a mushroom shaped composite cork designed for easy opening without a corkscrew
The three wines. If you see them in the shops, scan the label for the secret story
The restaurant has this nice glassed in verandah
and a long table for big parties
PRO Gudrun Clark and Andisani Sibiya
Amy Heydenrych signing our book
Spring rolls with a dipping sauce
The book
small wrapped kebabs
The spicy squid was very popular. There were also very good prawns
Polenta sticks, breadcrumbed and deep fried
Some lovely sweet temptations

Tasting Diemersdal Sauvignons at the cellar

An invitation to Diemersdal to taste their newly released Sauvignons Blanc. Cellarmaster Thys Louw (a confessed Sauvignon Blanc addict) now has 10 Sauvignon Blancs in his range, all different and good

Adorning the parking area are the Strelitzia reginae plants. It is a monocotyledonous flowering plant indigenous to South Africa. Common names include strelitzia, crane flower or bird of paradise, though these names are also collectively applied to other species in the genus. This one really does look like a crane
Rachel welcomed us with a glass of their Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc, fruity and full of refreshing passion fruit, gooseberries, and limes; it reminded us of a German Sekt
The line up of wines we were to taste
First was the new 2018 Winter Ferment Sauvignon Blanc where Thys has used a new method of making for South Africa. It has perfume, tropical jube jube sweets on the nose, and is very tropical and concentrated in style on the palate. The fermentation of the wine is postponed for four months as the juice is frozen, When it is defrosted it goes through a 2 weeks fermentation, temperature controlled at 14-16° C and is bottled soon after. They do this in New Zealand and it does mean that fresh wine will be available in the middle of the year

Taking our seats for the tasting in the restaurant which was closed for the function. The Reserve 208 Sauvignon Blanc has pyrazines, peppers, herbs and fynbos on the nose, clean citrus crispness also with herbal notes, long flavours and a hint of salt on the end. A classic rendition. And then we were excited to taste the new 2018 Eight Rows. The grapes were planted in 1992 on 1.1 hectares. It is Thys's epiphany wine, his favourite and ours. Elderflowers with grey minerality, quite shy initially. Clean, clear juice, lovely classic Sauvignon Blanc, long flavours of figs, green pepper, limes and minerality on the palate. A food wine
PR Consultant Emile Joubert welcomed us. Next we tasted the MM Louw 2017 Sauvignon Blanc, made from a vineyard planted in 1982. Its in the Blanc Fumé style; they use 40 to 50% new oak, big 500 litre barrels that are rolled to stir the lees, so the wine has a light smoky character. Sweet pear fruit, green peas, & leafiness on the nose, a typical Sauvignon blanc palate of Elderflower, green pepper, figs; crisp and clean with some caramel wood on the end. Needs time. Sauvignon Blanc needs to age to become superb, this is not suited to early drinking
Thys tells us about the wines. He really is passionate about what he does. Our next wine was the MM Louw 2013 Sauvignon Blanc The age has made it a magnificent wine. Asparagus and peas on the nose as expected, clean on the palate with more peas and long lemon citrus flavours, rounded wood on the end. This wine has layers of flavour and minerality and is superb. Our highest scoring wine
Then the Private Collection 2016 Bordeaux Blend with a pretty floral nose from the Petite Verdot, wood smoke and cassis, cherry fruit.. Velvet on the palate with nice dark berries and dark chocolate and coffee wood. And finally something from the vinoteque, the Private Collection 1984 Red Blend of Cabernet, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Cola notes on the nose, the wine is red brown with an orange rim. The merlot brings soft sweet and sour fruit and warmth with hints of Brett. The wine has lasted well, but doesn’t stay long in the glass. Tannins wood and some fruit remain.
Time to move on to the red wines. They are 40% of Diemersdal's production. First, the Pinotage Reserve 2017. 2009 was the maiden vintage; the block was planted in 1972. Merlot cherry and red berry notes on the nose, with lactic hints and wood smoke. On the palate, chalky tannins first then chocolate cherries and a dry finish. This needs age. Fermented in open kuipe, then malolactic fermentation takes place spontaneously in French oak barrels from March to May, 14 months. Take the time to cellar this wine. We can announce that this wine is one of the Top 10 Pinotages this year, awarded today 16th August 2018
Locally grown and regionally sourced produce inspire Chef Martin De Kock to blend his classical French training with the flavours of Provencal France, Spain and a touch of Asia. The herbs and some of the vegetables are from the kitchen garden, the preserves and pickles home-made and the bread freshly baked. (Quote from the farms web pages). He told us that he changes the menu as he finds the produce locally and in season. Tapas are changed twice a week, the menu twice a month
The lunch menu sounded very good and it was
Cape Wine Master Duimpie Bayly and journalist Esme Erasmus of Die Tygerburger in conversation
They make their own masa for the taco. It was topped with crisp tempura prawns and charred sweet corn, with smoked avocado, lime, and chipotle chilli. Zingy, tingling with flavour and texture
Tako Yaki is one of Japan's best-known street food translates as octopus balls. A crisp fried dumpling which reminded us of the bread sausages in Portugal, topped with katsuyobushi, dried flakes of fermented smoked tuna with pickled ginger, a smoked fish gel, spring onions, mayonnaise and micro greens. Another taste and texture sensation. We drank these two dishes with the 2017 Grüner Veltliner which is aromatic and herbal, crisp and clean with good sugar balanced by acidity, very true to its Austrian parents, a characterful food wine par excellence
A barley and Jerusalem artichoke "risotto" topped with mustard flower seeds and leaves. So full, creamy rich and satisfying
We had the 2017 Malbec with this dish. Chewy with a big nose, savoury, sweet velvet fruit which keeps on giving. On the palate, candy, cherry and aged sweet balsamic; sour sweet fruit, long dark flavours with salt, liquorice and some Pinot character on the end
On to the main course. There were two. First, the Slow cooked pork belly with wonderful whirls of crisp salted crackling. The pork was cooked sous vide for 12 to 14 hours. Presented on a reduction of palm sugar and rum, baby beetroots, with a lemongrass and pistachio praline and a smoked beetroot puree. Complex, rich and an interesting mix of flavours
Tender Chalmar Sirloin with a waterblommetjie bourguignon, king oyster mushrooms, richly caramelised onions, a paper thin potato tuille and foraged herbs and flowers
Dessert was a try of bite sized Friandise L to R. We were not given descriptions, so this is what we tasted. A Turkish delight made with too much agar agar, so the texture was more vegetable than dessert; a half of a ginger and pecan nut muffin with a coffee choc vinegar dots and chocolate chips; a mini macaron with rice cream had savoury and grape jam flavours; a brandy snap shard on date puree and a chocolate crisp truffle; a mini fritter dumpling which resembled a canele, topped with dehydrated raspberries
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2018

Wednesday, August 15, 2018

What’s on the MENU this week. Venison sausages in red wine with beans

Venison or game meat like springbok is relatively inexpensive in the winter when it is in season and the sausages are very reasonable. This lovely one pot dish is easy to make, does not take long and tastes delicious. You could spice it up with a little chilli if you want to; we added a splash or two of Tabasco. If you don’t have the redcurrant or cranberry jellies, add a spoonful of honey. You need the sweetness. This feeds four
1T= 1  Tablespoon   1t = 1 teaspoon

Ingredients
2 T olive oil - 400 g venison sausages - 1 medium onion, halved and sliced - 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped - 1 t fennel seeds , lightly crushed  -  4 heaped T  tomato passata  - 400 ml good chicken stock - 100 ml good Shiraz - 2 celery sticks, thinly sliced -  2 carrots, chopped into rings – 1 t fresh rosemary, chopped – 2 bay leaves -  Freshly ground black pepper - 1 t redcurrant jelly or cranberry sauce    400 g can cannellini (haricot) beans, drained  - ½ small bunch parsley, finely chopped – salt and pepper
Method
Heat the oil in a deep casserole with a lid. Add the sausages and cook, turning them, until they are light brown. Lift from the pan, and set aside. Add the onion and cook, stirring, for 5-8 minutes until softened and beginning to take on colour. Add the fennel seeds and garlic and allow them to toast for a minute or two. Add the Shiraz, turn up the heat and let it quickly reduce by half. Then add the tomato passata, rosemary and bay leaves. Stir and cook for three or four minutes to blend the flavours, and then add the stock. Add a good grating of black pepper, then cover and leave to cook for 15 minutes until the vegetables are soft. Add the sausages and the beans and cook until warmed through. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. (If your sausages are not linked, cut them into 5 or 6 cm pieces). Sprinkle on the parsley and serve

This went perfectly with our Wine of the Week

MENU's Wine of the Week. KWV 2012 The Mentors Shiraz

The wine we enjoyed with this week's recipe was from our cellar, but Lynne spoke to Izelle van Blerk, the winemaker, today and it is still available from the KWV Emporium

Light smoky oak, ripe cherries and berries, incense and minerality with pepper and cinnamon spice on the nose. Silky on the rich palate, complex with beautify bruléed fruit, black pepper warmth, some herbal notes and a long finish with dark coffee wood on the end. All the grapes are from Paarl and the wine spent 18 months in oak. A classy wine perfect for venison and other rich spicy dishes

Tasting and lunch at Kanonkop

Who could refuse an Invitation to taste the range of current and vintage wines at Kanonkop? This high flying cellar has always produced classy wines, wines that sell, wines that are respected and wines that win international and local awards. They wanted to give us an opportunity to taste older vintages so we could understand the style of wines they produce, and understand why they make and stay with these styles. They are always questioning how to stay relevant in such a changing climate

The Kanonkop cellar under a threatening winter sky
The entrance
Inside, the comfortable tasting room
Our welcoming drink was the Kanonkop Kadette 2018 Pinotage Rosé. Wines for the Kadette range come from younger vineyards as they wait for them to mature. Fermented in kuipe (open-topped fermenters), they get the same winemaking process as the upper ranges, but with less and older wood. This has candy floss fruit on the nose, On the palate it's more a red wine than a blush, with light vanilla oak, berries and wood on the end
The barrel cellar. They vary their barrel toasting according to the vintage. It was less heavy in 2016
We moved to a tasting room behind the barrel cellar. First we tasted the Kanonkop Kadette Cape Blend 2017. Lactic, with soft cherry fruit on the nose, pure fruit on the palate, mulberries and cherries with tight grippy tannins, warmth and chalk on the end with liquorice wood. Then the 2009 Kadette Cape Blend with vanilla oak, cherry richness, and light smoke. Soft silky and juicy cherries and berries, the tannins and chalk have softened with age, and it finishes with gentle wood on the end
Then two vintages of Kadette Pinotage. The young 2016 has vanilla oak and incense wood on the soft nose, with sweet fruit and some liquorice. On the palate juicy hot mulberries, cherries and currants with dark wood on the end. The 2012 has vanilla ice cream and rhubarb on the nose. Cassis, lean berry fruit with lactic flavours, chalk and dry tannins on the palate
Owner Johann Krige told us they stick to the traditional ways of making wine. They do use mechanical as well as manual punchdowns every 2 hours but as the alcohol climbs they pull back. In 2010 the market wanted something more affordable from Kanonkop so they made Kadette. all the malolactic fermentation is done quickly in the barrel. Pinotage is very different from other grape varietals, it ferments very fast, it is dry in three and half days, while Cabernet takes 7 days. They love wet winters which give big production. Kanonkop gets 5 to 6.5 tons a hectare on average. Johann told us they have a plan to do en primeur wine in future. They tried it in 2009 but the economy tanked, and he is not sure SA is ready for it, so the wines currently get sold when they are in bottle. They want to go the quality route
Cellarmaster Abrie Beeslaar and Johann Krige with the wines we were tasting. Next came two Kanonkop Pinotages 2016 and 2008. The 2016 has incense wood, chalky tannins, juicy fruit with wood smoke. This wine has everything it needs to last decades: Fruit, acid, tannins, chalk and alcohol. One to buy and keep. Our top scoring wine. The 2008 shows what it can become with its complex nose, pretty dark berry fruit, tight tannins, long flavours, warmth and chalk on the long follow through and a tight end.  Its a male wine! Has lots more mileage too
The line-up of wines we were tasting. Next came two Kanonkop Cabernet Sauvignons 2014 and 2001. The 2014 has a pretty nose, floral hints of roses and cherry berries. Lighter fruit on the palate, almost Pinot like, with a long chalky finish. The 2001 was one of our favourites. Beautiful bruléed wood nose with soft cassis fruit and elegance. On the palate the wine has berries and leaves, some green tea hints, length, and it still ends with tight chalky tannins 
Cellarmaster Abrie Beeslaar talking about his wines and Kanonkop. His Cape Winemakers Guild wine this year is made from the second oldest Pinotage vines on the farm. Next we tasted two vintages of the Kanonkop Paul Sauer Bordeaux blend, normally 70% Cabernet, 15% Merlot 15% Cab Franc. Petite Verdot is soon to be added to the blend as the vineyard comes on stream. The 2015 has clean sweet fruit, cassis, cherry and mulberry, pencil shavings, and perfume. Layers of chalk and tight tannins with long flavours of fruit, vanilla oak, and savouriness from the Cab Franc on the palate, and then more chalk and tannin - also built to withstand time. The 2009 has bruléed fruit, richness, rhubarb, cassis cherry elegance on the nose. Cassis fruit, alcohol, a pause (the wine is resting) then cassis, cherries and liquorice wood
Our final wine was the Kanonkop Black Label Pinotage (R2000 a bottle) It has a red velvet nose with lovely red fruit, well integrated. Tight tannins and chalk, wood then cooked and warm red berry fruit. It is showing its Pinot parent with the fruit, with a little metal from the Cinsault parent, wood and lots of chalk on the end. Another block buster wine for cellaring. These are some treasures in the cellar
Good to see older stock kept
The impressive vinoteque
Some old soldiers
White mould on very aged bottles
The cellar is full of graffiti
Some ancient history and good drinking
"Lunch" they said "would be simple". They don't have a restaurant and it would be braaied snoek, this is what they always serve to guests. Snoek cooked the proper way, no jam coating, just seasoning and lemon juice. Skin down on the open fire for just a few minutes. Which means it was moist and flavourful. Enough to convert anyone who has ever had dry over-cooked snoek.
A good mixed salad
Spicy sweet potatoes
and dessert was coffee and koeksisters
Michael Bampfield Duggan and Heidi Kritzinger
We enjoyed the tasting and the lunch very much. It is so good to be able to see the present, past and future with wine, and it doesn’t happen very often. The hospitality was superb. And the lunch delicious. We could drink the wines we had tasted with lunch and that was an extra treat
Paul Krige's lovely soft young Irish setter