Thursday, January 17, 2019

The wines of Fryer's Cove in Doringbaai

Fryer's Cove has its wine tasting venue and wine cellar in a refurbished and repurposed crayfish factory in Doringbaai. They are famous for having the vineyard closest to the sea and you pass it as you come into Doringbaai. They are the only wine farm in what is the smallest wine ward in South Africa - Bamboes Bay. And it is as they say "500 meters from where the cold ocean throws its breakers against a rocky shore". We visited them while we were on holiday at Lambert's Bay on the West Coast
The boat in front is a diamond digger. They dredge just off shore and find alluvial diamonds washed down the Orange River
Lovely views across the bay and an azure blue sea
It was quite hard to find the entrance but we got there, finally
and were warmly welcomed by Francois Jansen van Rensburg, the Marketing Manager,
with whom we had made an appointment
We chose to sit on the shaded terrace
Inside the tasting room
They also sell Namaqua olive oil
The wines we tasted
One of their wine awards, FNB Sauvignon blanc Top 10 2018. To read the extraordinary story of the wines and the vineyard, have a look at their website https://fryerscovewine.co.za/the-winery/ They have no suitable ground water because it is saline, so they have an overland pipeline from Vredendal – 29.5 km away. This was the only solution and they had to cross three adjacent farms to get there. They grow Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir on 6.5 hectares. Because of the cool local climate caused by the sea mists, this is possible
Francois brought us the cellar's wines to taste
A sign we are always happy to see
We began with 2018 The Jetty Sauvignon Blanc, only available at the Cellar. R75. Shy, with hints of kelp on the nose, it is a warm country wine, full & very satisfying. Green peppers, guava, orange, loquat, with long flavours and salt on the end
This diamond boat has its permitted dredging area just in front of the winery. It is very profitable. They find diamonds worth several hundreds of thousands on a weekly and often daily basis
And suddenly we were enveloped in thick, creeping sea mist coming in over the kelp beds
This happens often and keeps the vineyard cool
Boys on the jetty, getting to know the machinery
Next was the 2016 Bamboes Bay Sauvignon Blanc, R230. Distinct Sauvignon pyrazines with figs, kelp and sea air on the nose. There is lime in the soil which makes this wine crisp, juicy and full, nicely mature with flavours of English gooseberry and plums.
Ta Dah! Newly released, the new packaging on the 2017 Bamboes Bay Sauvignon Blanc which is kept on the lees. And they vinify some of the wine in two 500 litre concrete eggs. Herbal, kelp and sea on the nose, creaminess on the full rounded and warm palate (14% alcohol) with flavours of figs, salt, pears, gooseberry and lime. Will be so good with seafood. R260
Then the 2016 Hollebaksstrandfontein Blanc Fumé wooded Sauvignon Blanc. R300 Sea air, kelp, crayfish & smoke on the nose
This sparkles on the palate with vivacity, lovely fruit in layers, salty, greengage, rich full with nice gentle wood at the end
Flotsam from the sea decorating the tasting room and restaurant
Another couple had come for a tasting with Francois
Then the very acceptable 2018 Doringbaai Rosé, made from free run Shiraz juice. R95. Salty, lees, soft and juicy fruit - red plums and spice, and dry, so a good food wine
The Friars Cove 2015 Pinot Noir has wood hints, balsam, cherry, sea air and forest on the nose. Chalky tannins, elegance, nice wood, cherries and some cassis, warmth and smoke on the end
The Doring Bay Shiraz kelp and sea air. Red cherries and berries on the nose; 14% alcohol. Good fruit, pepper, plums and cherries. Long and warm
The range of wines
The two concrete eggs in the cellar, which they are using to make wine
Looking at fermentation tanks in the cellar
The barrel cellar
For lunch, Lynne chose the ribs
while John opted for "Surf 'n Turf", steak and calamari
On the way out you go through the abalone farm, where they nurture the baby abalone
Seawater is circulated in the tanks
The lighthouse in the mist
And, on the road out of Doringbaai, is the Fryer's Cove vineyard
Just one building and lots of vines
On the special terroir of red soil and limestone with sea shells
And the local fynbos which keeps hold of the soil
Harvest time will be in late January or February
You can see Doringbaai and the sea in the distance. And some new vine plantings
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© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2019

Tuesday, January 15, 2019

The Cape Gannets of Bird Island, Lambert's Bay

For bird lovers, the Cape Gannet (Morus capensis) colony at Bird Island, across the causeway from the harbour is a very important reason to visit Lambert's Bay. It is well worth the charge of R50 per head to visit the island, but be warned, they only accept cash. On our first attempt at visiting the colony, we were turned back as we had insufficient cash and they were not interested in our cards. There are nbo ATMs in the town, but the Spar supermarket will allow you to draw cash with your card at the till
The causeway
A pair of cormorants was flirting in the harbour
A sculpture made of driftwood at the entrance
and a fibreglass representation of a Southern Right whale
The excellent hide at the edge of the nesting area. A very good vantage point for photography. It is a two-level concrete structure, clad with fibreglass "rock". The pattern and colour of the artificial rock were carefully constructed to match the natural rock on the island, and the hide is probably one of the most architecturally important bird hides in the world. It provides extraordinarily good views of the Cape Gannet colony. From the lower level, the gannets go about their daily business within a few metres of a huge window of one-way glass. Upstairs is an open viewing platform which provides an overview of the colony, and where the cacophony of calling gannets is overwhelming. The gannets breed in spring and summer.
Bird Island Nature Reserve is a 3-hectare CapeNature nature reserve in Lambert's Bay, South Africa. It is an important breeding site for Cape gannets and crowned cormorants. Currently it is home to between 4000 and 6000 breeding pairs. It is the only place at which one has access to see the birds at close quarters and is the last place at which a seabird breeding colony can be visited before the Namibian islands 600Km to the north

The other colonies are at Mercury Island, Ichaboe Island and Possession Island in Namibia, and in South Africa at Malgas Island and at the other Bird Island, Mandela Bay, which is near Port Elizabeth in the Eastern Cape. There has not always been a gannet colony in Lambert's Bay. This colony is believed to have formed in 1912. The process whereby new Cape Gannet colonies form is unknown, because young gannets are incredibly faithful at returning to their natal islands when they mature and start breeding, and movements between colonies are exceptional
The birds crowd together and one is amazed at seeing them return to their own nests when they return from fishing
The noise is extreme, but they seem to recognise their mates' calls
From this point I'll keep comments to a minimum. The birds speak for themselves
Maybe a bit self-indulgent, but this a very small selection of the photographs I took
A courting couple in a mating dance
Clear off! She's mine! 
Young birds are covered in guano which is washed off when they dive into the sea
First flights of fledglings. They'll be a lot cleaner when they return
Perfection in the air 
Cape fur seals also breed on the island. They prey on sea birds as well as fish, so are a threat to the bird life, especially cormorants, penguins and gannets
A kelp gull pair. They also breed on the island, but away from the gannets
Profuse thanks to the Animal Demography Unit at the University of Cape Town, from whom I borrowed some of the text http://www.adu.uct.ac.za/adu/projects/sea-shore-birds/sites/sa/lamberts-bay
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© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2019