Friday, July 26, 2019

This Week’s MENU. DGB & Raath Wine Trade Shows. Journey’s End, A Stellenbosch Weekend, Daube of Beef with Prunes, Bosman Twyfeling Cinsault

The old farmhouse at Spier, #StellenboschisCool
Another very active week, totally centred on wine, but nearly all of it accompanied by very good food, and we had a night in a very good Winelands hotel for good measure. Our diary is almost too full for the next three weeks and we are juggling assignments while we plan our next excursion to points north, more about which we’ll tell you in another issue of MENU, when we’ve finalised our arrangements. So keep on reading, please, and enjoy this week’s stories and stay in touch for the coming episodes
Two wine trade shows this week and they could not have been more different. The first was Douglas Green Bellingham (DGB) held at the Mount Nelson. We began, as we usually do, with a tasting of the MCCs from Graham Beck and once again fell in love with the Blanc de Blanc so crisp and seductive. We chatted with Chris du Toit, CEO of Graham Beck Enterprises…
This year's Raath Trade Show was held at The Athletic Club and Social on Buitengracht in Cape Town. They took over the entire place. Didn’t see a single item of gym equipment thankfully, we were worried we would have to work out…
Journey’s End is high up in the hills behind Somerset West and Sir Lowry’s Pass Village with good views of False Bay and they benefit from its cooling breezes. We were invited there this week to meet winemaker Mike Dawson, taste their wines and have some lunch with a small group of fellow members of the media…
A great invitation from Stellenbosch Wine Routes to "Experience Winter in Stellenbosch" with them last weekend. #StellenboschisCool. We joined several other members of the media for the first event, a wine tasting at Haskell Wines with Armand Swart the Tasting Room Manager…
When we arrived at Blaauwklippen, we were welcomed with a glass of MCC… but, first, it had to be opened. One of the staff members demonstrated sabrage on a bottle of their Zinfandel bubbly to welcome us. And bang went the cork with the top of the bottle! And one of member of our media group also had a go, with explosive result…
The next stop on our Stellenbosch Wine Routes "Experience Winter in Stellenbosch" last weekend was to the hotel at Spier wine estate where we would spend the night, have dinner at PJ Vadas Smokehouse and Bakery on Spier and, after breakfast, go to the tasting room for a wine and soup pairing. We checked in and then were taken by golf cart to our room…
The final stop on our Stellenbosch Wine Routes "Experience Winter in Stellenbosch" last weekend was Jordan, for lunch at the Bakery. The sun was shining and we were well wrapped up and so were very happy to sit out on the terrace. The tasting room is open, should you want a wine tasting…
It is amazing how television chefs often trigger a memory of a dish you cooked long ago. This happened this week to Lynne who went searching for her recipe and thankfully found it. We had this for dinner this week and it made enough for two nights and there was still some for our once a week queen of the vacuum and ironing for her lunch. It produces a rich, unctuous dark beef stew with lots of flavour…
made by winemaker Natasha Williams. We tasted it tonight at Caroline's Red Wine review and it was a revelation. Cinsault is coming of age in South Africa. No longer the disliked harsh and metallic wines mostly used for blending in the past, but wines with such fruity freshness and style that they just beg to be drunk with good food. They are not pretentious wines, just ones you want to enjoy often…



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On the MENU This Week. Daube of Beef with Prunes

It is amazing how television chefs often trigger a memory of a dish you cooked long ago. This happened this week to Lynne who went searching for her recipe and thankfully found it. We had this for dinner this week and it made enough for two nights and there was still some for our once a week queen of the vacuum and ironing for her lunch. It produces a rich, unctuous dark beef stew with lots of flavour

It is a dish you start in the morning, cook in the late afternoon/early evening and it braises and is ready to serve for dinner. There are some different ingredients from a normal beef stew recipe and they make all the difference. Do try and use very good beef stock. The recipe comes from the South of France. Use good robust red wine, you can drink the rest with the meal. We used Nymphomaine 2014 from La Vierge in the Hemel en Aarde Valley. Serves 6, so great for a dinner party


A kilo of lean stewing beef or deboned shin of beef , cut into 3 cm cubes – 100g streaky bacon cut into 2 cm slices – half a bottle of good red wine – 75 g butter or olive oil – 450 g peeled and sliced carrots – 450 g of finely sliced onions – 2 sticks of celery, finely sliced – 2 cloves of garlic, roughly chopped – 2 tablespoons of flour or corn flour - a 10 cm strip of orange peel – a bouquet garni or 2 bay leaves, 1 teaspoon of thyme leaves and 2 teaspoons of chopped rosemary leaves - 500 ml good beef stock – 2 rounded tablespoons of tomato puree – 10 prunes

Put the cut up beef and bacon into the red wine in a mixing bowl and marinate for 3 to 4 hours. This helps to tenderise the cheaper cuts of beef. If you want to add the marrow bones from the centre of the shin of beef to this, it will add so much richness. Just remove before serving 

Drain the meat from the wine, but keep the wine. Set your oven to 150ºC. In a heavy casserole with a lid, fry the meat in half the butter or oil until nicely browned on all sides. Remove it and set aside, then put in the onions with the rest of the butter or oil and some salt and fry till soft and just beginning to take on colour. Add the garlic and the rest of the vegetables and fry for 5 minutes until softening. Add the flour and stir through well to cook it a little. Then stir in the tomato purée. Add back the meat, the wine, the stock, the orange peel and the herbs. Add a teaspoon of salt and several good grindings of black pepper. Put on the lid and cook for two and a half hours. Check once an hour to see that the liquid has not cooked away. Add water if it is becoming too thick. With half an hour to go, add the prunes. At this stage you can add baby potatoes as well. Before serving remove the bouquet garni

This is traditionally served with creamy mashed potatoes. Or with ribbon noodles. And fresh broccoli or beans. Warn your guests to look out for stones in the prunes if they have not been de-pipped

A day at Journey's End

Journey’s End is high up in the hills behind Somerset West and Sir Lowry’s Pass Village with good views of False Bay and they benefit from its cooling breezes. We were invited there this week to meet winemaker Mike Dawson, taste their wines and have some lunch with a small group of fellow members of the media

First a visit to the wine cellar...

...to taste a tank sample of this year’s aromatic Sauvignon Blanc
Mike was at Steenberg before he joined Journey's End. They have three large Foudres in the tank cellar
A Foudre is a large wooden vat, it can contain up to 300 hectolitres and more
Then into the barrel cellar where we tasted a sample of the barrel fermented Chardonnay

And two pottery Amphorae made in Italy from a special clay
This as Mike says, chews wine and gives a more oxidative character to wine made in it

The sample of the barrel fermented Chardonnay certainly showed promise. They use the very best French barrels
Mikes' lovely dog Addison on the barrels, she has a very sweet nature and is very much at home in the cellar
Back in the tasting room we began tasting their current releases. Weather Station 2019 Sauvignon blanc is very aromatic with green pepper. Crisp, lean and herbal with long flavours, it has undergone slow cold fermentation
  The 2018 Haystack Chardonnay is their entry level unwooded, made with whole bunch press and tank fermentation. Orange on the nose, crisp and lean with some butter and lemon lime flavours
  The 2018 V1 Chardonnay has heady floral aromas with a hint of honey. Round on the palate, then crisp lemon lime and hints of wood, honey and buttered toast. They do whole bunch press, cold stabilisation, put free run juice into 300 litre barrels, 30% first fill. They avoid malolactic fermentation on all the wines
  Next the single vineyard 2018 Destination Chardonnay with Chanel Cristal perfume and incense wood on the nose. Mature softness first, then very crisp citrus, grapefruit & lime with chalky tannins and butter on the end. Wood supports almost invisibly. The wine has a lanolin fatness on the end palate
  The 2017 Huntsman Shiraz Mourvedre Viognier has smoke and dark berry fruit, some richness and has a slight medicinal note on the nose. Dark berries, then dry grippy tannins take over. It needs time. It spends 6 months in tank and 6 months in barrel
  The 2018 Pastor's Blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc is slightly bruléed on the nose with very ripe dark berry fruit. Grippy tannins on soft strawberry raspberry juice, good grape acidity and is quite reminiscent of a Beaujolais
Winemaker Mike would like to make most of the wines by Carbonic maceration
Winter had arrived in full force. It rained heavily on and off during the day and was extremely cold that weekend
The view from the tasting room. Sadly, too misty to see the bay below

V2 2016 Merlot has a good characteristic Merlot nose, richness of cherry and cassis, which follows through on the palate with lovely ripe fruit. Some lactic flavours chalky tannins and dark toasted wood on the end but it is not intrusive. Made with carbonic fermentation with skin, pip and stalk contact gives the chalky tannins. The 2016 V3 Shiraz is naturally fermented. Spicy sweet fruit, incense wood with cinnamon and vanilla on the nose. Grippy tannins, and sharp red mulberry fruit with rhubarb and more chalk on the end. The final wine will be called Identity 2018 and is a Shiraz which has gone through 100% Carbonic maceration in the tank. Very spicy, herbal and balsamic. with mouth gripping tannins, mulberry and rhubarb fruit

The 2018 V1 Chardonnay is priced at between R150/165. 92% of Journeys End wines are sold overseas
The Gabb family from the UK took control of the farm in 1995
and Roger Gabb was Founder and Managing Director of Western Wines,
which has now been now sold. His son Rollo is now in control of the farm
Outside we found some very attractive Coprinus comatus (Shaggy Mane) Ink cap toadstools
This is when they are more mature and you can see the ink caps
A beautifully planted indigenous garden ...
... with lots of winter aloes flowering
We then drove up to the manor house for lunch
The more mature Journey’s End 2015 V5 Cabernet Sauvignon had been decanted
Rich and complex on the nose, dark cassis; fruity with long, rather crisp cassis flavours
The 2016 had green leaf cassis which follows through on the palate
We also drank the Cabernet Franc which is savoury on the nose, herbal and aromatic,
lovely savoury fruit, dark mulberry with licorice wood
Just right for the chilly day was this warming butternut soup with nutmeg, served with crisp herb croutons
The main course was perfectly cooked chicken pieces in a good gravy with courgettes, carrots, butternut
and caramelised red onion and accompanied by boiled potatoes with herbs. A simple but very good dish
We could also taste the 2017 Journey's End Chardonnay which has matured nicely, with lovely golden fruit, very enjoyable
And dessert was vanilla ice cream topped with chocolate sauce and cranberries on a bed of chocolate soil and nuts
We so enjoyed the day and the very good hospitality. Winemaker Mike Dawson is one to watch
All content ©  John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus

Raath Promotions Trade Show

This year's Raath Trade Show was held at The Athletic Club and Social on Buitengracht in Cape Town
They took over the entire place
Didn’t see a single item of gym equipment thankfully; we were worried that we would have to work out
Johan and Sofie Kruger of Kruger Family Wines
Marika Donohoe, PA and Office Manager at Raats Family Wines
Jaap-Henk Koelewijn of Tokara Restaurant in serious conversation with Gavin Bruwer of B Vintners
Enthusiastic Amoré van Zyl with Bouchard Finlayson wines
Amoré van Zyl and Danél Theron with Bouchard Finlayson wines, pouring for Faye of UnWined
Van Zyl du Toit, Allée Bleue winemaker
A canapé of, we think, duck. John went to the kitchen to photograph them coming out
A tray full of them was snaffled very quickly
Crostini
The chef was kept very busy as the venue was filled to the gunnels with trade
Brian Smith of Raath Promotions and a surprised looking woman...
And a wave in the distance 
Sebastian Beaumont pours for Keize of Grub & Vine and Aimee Beaumont (no relation) of The Wine Cellar
Lynne spent the evening ducking and diving through the crowd and managed to taste one wine from a few of the stands
Being small does not help in a scrum so she decided to concentrate on the spirits upstairs. No, not in heaven
Sebastian Beaumont with Chef Alex and Ruth Grahame of SeaBreeze restaurant
Karin Loubser of Silverthorn welcomed us with a lovely glass of The Genie
Upstairs to explore the spirits. Lynne asked some questions of the gin makers about what the base spirit of each gin was and got some strange answers: vodka, cane or a white spirit (no, not the stuff that removes paint). She was told that one had been made from a batch of beer that gone wrong and had then been fermented and turned into gin. It did have notes of beer in the gin, which was quite sharp. Lynne tastes a splash gin neat and then with a block of ice and then with a dash of tonic. But only a tiny sip.  And many people are adding liquid extracts after fermentation to flavour the gin. Not the traditional way
Kobá and Jan Solms of Muti Gin
Storm trying to read the back label on the Knut Hansen gin bottle. It is from Hope on Hopkins
And it tastes of cucumber and mint, so reminds one of a good Pimms. Cant wait to try it in summer as a long drink. 
Bonita Malherbe, of Van Loveren with their range of alcohol free wines
There is a growing market for these wines, especially among Millenials
Although not for us, it did give Lynne something to drink in a Spritzer during her dry January
Calmness on the balcony
Some beer as well, from Franschhoek Beer Company
We tried the Pale Ale and enjoyed the flavour with that hint of orange
Heike Victor and Olaf Morgenroth, Franschhoek Beer Company
James Copeland and winemaker Adi Badenhorst on James’ stand. We really, really enjoyed James' Rum and Pisco. Made with skill, we think these are going to be big sellers in the SA market. And hopefully, eventually, abroad