Wednesday, August 10, 2016

A visit to Tulbagh - Tasting Rijk's wine with Pierre Wahl

Pierre Wahl has been making wine at Rijks since 2002 and makes some impressive wines. He is also a member of the Cape Winemakers Guild and the farm has excellent terroir to produce good grapes that Pierre turns into exemplary wines. One nice marketing coup they have achieved is to have Rijks wine served in the restaurant at the famous Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam; great product placement. Owner Neville Dorrington bought the farm in 2000 and although advised to plant fruit, went for grapes instead, a fortuitous decision. We spent the afternoon with Pierre and tasted through the wines
Rijks tasting room/ It was here that we began to taste the wines. We started with the zesty 2013 Touch of Oak Chenin blanc, full of citrus and ripe pear layers. This refreshing wine deservedly gets four and a half stars in Platter. The wood is barely visible. The Private Cellar Chenin is much richer and more elegant
The tasting room is large and is nicely furnished with pale laminated modern wood. Next we tasted the 2013 Touch of Oak Pinotage. Aged in old barrels, this is the opposite the those coffee style Pinotages as it shows very little wood influence. It is from younger vines, trellised and night picked with 48 hr maceration
Next a Pinotage Lynne liked, the 2012 Private Cellar with a rich red berry nose, more Pinot than Cinsaut in character, very attractive. Rhubarb and spice on the palate with elegance. The display showcases some of Rijks many awards with the current wines, including their MCC Brut made from 100% Chardonnay.
Time to move outside for some welcome sunshine. You look out onto the vineyards which go over the hill and one of the farm staff cottages. It was time to start tasting the three Shirazes. First the Touch of Wood 2012, full of pepper and fennel on the nose, Sweet raspberry and maraschino cherries fruit lasts on the palate, making this a good food wine
Lynne making copious notes while Pierre introduces the next wine, the 2010 Private Cellar Shiraz. With expensive wood on the nose, this is like a super Tuscan with violets, leather and liquorice. On the palate, salty drop liquorice and rhubarb. Good acidity and length give it aging potential. A great wine to pair with rich red meats
Pierre saved the best till last. The 2011 Reserve Shiraz has that expensive oak incense with a silky soft texture of salty liquorice, delicate spicing and intense black cherries. It is very, very elegant, with long after flavours, ending in dark toasted wood. The ultimate food wine, drinking so well now. They always keep this Shiraz in reserve for four years. This vintage is running out quickly and the 2012 will be released at the end of this year. Buy now
The winemaker with his wine. He very kindly gave us the rest of the Reserve Shiraz to have with our dinner that night
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

A visit to Tulbagh - Supper at Readers Restaurant

We met owner Carol Collins recently at an event at Den Anker and she asked us to come to supper at Readers, her restaurant in Tulbagh. It also is a serious cat lovers gift shop and, while you eat, various charming moggies visit your feet and the fireplace. They are not allowed on the tables. The restaurant is in the oldest house on Church Street (c.1849), the famous Cape street that was destroyed in the 1969 earthquake which has been beautifully and historically restored
How charming the old building looks at night
The cat collection in the shop at the entrance
More in a farther room
There is a dining room on either side of the entrance hall
We had a table in the warm corner, next to the fire. The nights in Tulbagh are still a bit chilly
The menu for that evening
Lynne ordered the pork chops topped with slices of warmed apple and camembert. It was an enormous serving with two huge pork chops. This is country food, they don’t mess about with small portions. It was served with three roast potatoes. And we shared a dish of mixed vegetables
John chose the Lamb Strudel, which was crisp pastry filled with minced lamb. This was topped with some cream cheese and served with red cabbage and roast potatoes. Also a very generous portion
We were rather full after our main courses and asked to share a dish of ice cream. It turns out that Carol is famous for her interesting and adventurous ice creams. We were given three flavours: Balsamic vinegar, interestingly fruity and not at all vinegary; Coconut, ginger and honey with lots of coconut; and Curry and cumin - spicy rather than curried. All are creamy and rich
Then she insisted we try the Cape Brandy pudding which has ginger pieces in it and each portion had a different flavour of ice cream. We swopped to taste both. One was a lovely dark and rich Christmas pudding, a huge success and a great alternative at our warm Christmas tide to the real thing. The other flavour was lemon, honey and poppy seed with rooibos tea, ice cream with a crunch
We had a very gemütliche evening chatting to the other guests in the small room and to Carol at the end or her service. Thank you Carol
John spotted these local craft beers as we left. We will have to try them soon. We know Miss Molly as an MCC brut wine, now for the beer
Note: we do not use flash in restaurants because it can be very disturbing to other guests when we take numerous photographs. In situations like this, when light levels are very low (candles), picture quality suffers

© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Thursday, August 04, 2016

This Week's MENU. Laurium Red Blends, Caroline's Red Wine Review, New chef at Catharina's, Mussels and wine at Den Anker, Nederburg Auction preview, Ham and chicory, Badsberg NLH

A winter walk on the beach, Britannia Bay
When life gives you lemons     This is been a rather disappointing and very stressful week for us. We all have these weeks from hell from time to time; the point is that you just have to take charge and get through them. After the storm last week, most of the phones in Sea Point were down. We registered a complaint, almost everyone is back on line, we are not. Last time, in June, we were without a phone for 20 days and dealing with Telkom is chronic. No response at all to our logged calls and no appearance of anyone. How to run a business from home! Then, on Wednesday, on the way to Steenberg, our car started kangaroo jumping. We assumed that there must have been water in the petrol, as we had filled up after the storm the day before from a garage at the bottom of our hill. No. We broke down that evening while crossing the intersection of Beach and St John's Road at 7 pm. Dangerous. Thank heavens for AA membership, and we were finally towed home at 9.30. Sea Point Beachfront security were also supportive, thank you. We have an electronic problem and a leaking gearbox. Barons, the VW dealership, only does plug and play repairs with new components nowadays, they don't actually fix anything and can't help us, so it now has to go to the gearbox people and then to an electronic firm. The main problem? We are due to go to Tulbagh on Sunday for five days, visiting Saronsberg and other wine farms, the Tulbagh Hotel, restaurants and other fun things to do there, which we will write about. So car hire looms. We will regard it as a holiday expense, regardless of the fact that we will be working the whole time
MENU has a new Facebook page 
The Laurium Capital Signature Red Blend Report 2016 at Ellerman House     This annual competition now has Laurium Capital as their sponsor and it was held this year at Ellerman House. Christian Eedes (winemag.co.za), James Petersen and Roland Peens (Wine cellar) usually judge the red blends entered, this year. Roland was ill, so Accountant Hennie Coetzee was co-opted. There were 16 winners. You can see who won here: http://winemag.co.za/the-laurium-capital-signature-red-blend-report-2016/. There will be public tastings in Cape Town on 17 August at Radisson Blu Hotel Waterfront and in Johannesburg on 18 August at Summer Place Hyde Park respectively. Tickets available on line from winemag.co.za
Tasting some of the Cape's best Reds at Caroline’s Red Wine Review     Caroline Rillema of Caroline's Fine Wines holds two of the best wine tastings every year: her Red Wine Review in July and the White Wine Review on Wednesday, 19th October. She selects wines that have four and a half or five star status which she judges to be great wines. It is an incredibly well attended tasting, held this year at rather hot Table Bay Hotel.
An intriguing meal at Catharina's at Steenberg     Are you an adventurous eater? Because we have been in the food and wine business for so long, first as retailers selling unusual ingredients and fine wines, then as writer and photographer of food and wine, etc, we tend to take adventurous food in our stride, but the event at Steenberg this week made us pause. We were invited to sample the food of new Executive chef Archie Maclean and it turned out to be quite an adventurous journey that we absolutely loved, but others, perhaps, were cautious.
Muscling in on Mussels at Den Anker     We had been invited to Muratie for the Port Festival but sadly, without a car, we had to cancel. That meant we were able to take up Mark Norrish's (he heads the wine buying at Ultra) invitation to attend his annual Ultra Mussels Wine Celebration at Den Anker Restaurant, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town as we can get there and back by MyCiti bus
Nederburg Pre Auction Tasting at Durbanville Hills      We attended the Nederburg Auction last year and Lynne did manage to secure one lot, despite heavy bidding, of Graham Beck 2009 Blanc de blancs MCC for John for his 70th Birthday. So we were delighted to be invited to taste the wines that will be auctioned this year. However, because of heavy home going traffic it became an exercise in speed tasting. A good friend kindly lent us her car and we left Sea Point at 10 to 4. We reached Durbanville Hills at 10 to 6 - they were closing at 6. Luckily, others had also been working or delayed and they kindly stayed open to allow us to taste till nearly 7 o'clock, for which we are very grateful
What's on the MENU this week?     We had this dish for supper tonight and wonder why it is not more popular. Chicory or witloof is a vegetable that is widely available, but we don't see many of you buying it. Nor do we remember ever seeing it on a restaurant menu. But, cooked the right way, it is delicious. You can also include this as a standard Banting dish. You could use slices of smoked chicken if you don't use pork. As the chicory needs proper draining, you might like to start boiling it a few hours before you eat. We are having four and using 300 ml of thick cheese sauce and grating cheddar on top.
Chicory enrobed in ham with a thick cheese sauce
2 large chicory bulbs per person - sea salt - one large slice of ham per chicory bulb - salt and pepper - a rich cheese sauce - more grated cheese for the top
Take a sharp paring knife and remove the bitter core of each chicory bulb. Insert the knife tip in the root and rotate it, a tent shaped piece will drop out, discard. Place all of the chicory in well-salted cold water. Bring to the boil. Drain the pot and repeat once again. This removes any residual bitterness from the chicory. Boil until it is very tender. Drain carefully and leave in a colander to continue draining. When they are cold, squeeze out any residual water and pat them dry. If they stay wet, it will thin out the cheese sauce. Wrap each bulb in a slice of ham. Place in rows in an ovenproof casserole. Season with salt and pepper. Pour over your thick cheese sauce. Top with a good grating of strong cheddar. The matured English cheddar at Checkers is especially good and well-priced. Put into the oven and cook uncovered for 20 minutes or until the top is browning and the sauce is bubbling. You can also put this under a hot grill. The flavour is close to asparagus. Enjoy with a crisp dry white wine. A white blend would also be good, but we chose a Chenin blanc, Forrester Meinert FMC 2010, which, predictably, was superb.
What's on the WINE MENU?     Badsberg's much awarded 2009 Noble Late Harvest made from Chenin Blanc and Hanepoot grapes.
We had a superb tasting of Noble Late Harvest wines last night at our wine club and this wine was one that really impressed from those which are still available for purchase. The bottle looks like a Christmas tree with baubles, it is so decorated, but you do need to take the gongs seriously; it is not easy to earn a Platinum award from Michelangelo or many of the other awards. The producer is a co-operative in Rawsonville which produces a range of very good wines, with dessert wines being four of the five wines which were awarded four or more stars in the 2016 Platter. This wine earned four stars. The non-dessert wine in this group of five is the Chardonnay sur lie.
The wine is, as expected, a honeyed, amber-coloured sweet wine with great acid sugar balance. It is full of treacle tart on the nose, quite salty, with almost a liquorice drop character and with bucketfuls of apricots and marmalade. A wine to go perfectly with desserts and rich patés. And, at last, some serendipity. We discovered that we have a bottle in our cellar. It is made from 80% Chenin blanc and 20% Hanepoot (or, if you like, Muscat d ‘Alexandrie)
4th August 2016
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What's on the MENU this week? Chicory enrobed in ham with a thick cheese sauce

We had this dish for supper tonight and wonder why it is not more popular. Chicory or witloof is a vegetable that is widely available, but we don't see many of you buying it. Nor do we remember ever seeing it on a restaurant menu. But, cooked the right way, it is delicious. You can also include this as a standard Banting dish. You could use slices of smoked chicken if you don't use pork. As the chicory needs proper draining, you might like to start boiling it a few hours before you eat. We are having four and using 300 ml of thick cheese sauce and grating cheddar on top.
Chicory enrobed in ham with a thick cheese sauce
2 large chicory bulbs per person - sea salt - one large slice of ham per chicory bulb - salt and pepper - a rich cheese sauce - more grated cheese for the top
Take a sharp paring knife and remove the bitter core of each chicory bulb. Insert the knife tip in the root and rotate it, a tent shaped piece will drop out, discard. Place all of the chicory in well-salted cold water. Bring to the boil. Drain the pot and repeat once again. This removes any residual bitterness from the chicory. Boil until it is very tender. Drain carefully and leave in a colander to continue draining. When they are cold, squeeze out any residual water and pat them dry. If they stay wet, it will thin out the cheese sauce. Wrap each bulb in a slice of ham. Place in rows in an ovenproof casserole. Season with salt and pepper. Pour over your thick cheese sauce. Top with a good grating of strong cheddar. The matured English cheddar at Checkers is especially good and well-priced. Put into the oven and cook uncovered for 20 minutes or until the top is browning and the sauce is bubbling. You can also put this under a hot grill. The flavour is close to asparagus. Enjoy with a crisp dry white wine. A white blend would also be good, but we chose a Chenin blanc, Forrester Meinert FMC 2010, which, predictably, was superb
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

On the WINE MENU: Badsberg's much awarded 2009 Noble Late Harvest

We had a superb tasting of Noble Late Harvest wines last night at our wine club and this wine was one that really impressed from those which are still available for purchase. The bottle looks like a Christmas tree with baubles, it is so decorated, but you do need to take the gongs seriously; it is not easy to earn a Platinum award from Michelangelo or many of the other awards. The producer is a co-operative in Rawsonville which produces a range of very good wines, with dessert wines being four of the five wines which were awarded four or more stars in the 2016 Platter. The exception is the Chardonnay sur lie. This wine earned four stars

The wine is, as expected, a honeyed, amber-coloured sweet wine with great acid sugar balance. It is full of treacle tart on the nose, quite salty, with almost a liquorice drop character and with bucketfuls of apricots and marmalade. A wine to go perfectly with desserts and rich patés. And, at last, some serendipity. We discovered that we have a bottle in our cellar. It is made from 80% Chenin blanc and 20% Hanepoot (or, if you like, Muscat d ‘Alexandrie). It is available on line from the cellar at R75 per bottle
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Wednesday, August 03, 2016

2016 Nederburg Auction wine preview at Durbanville Hills

We attended the Nederburg Auction last year and Lynne did manage to secure one lot, despite heavy bidding, of Graham Beck 2009 Blanc de blancs MCC for John for his 70th Birthday. So we were delighted to be invited to taste the wines that will be auctioned this year. However, because of heavy home going traffic it became an exercise in speed tasting. A good friend kindly lent us her car and we left Sea Point at 10 to 4. We reached Durbanville Hills at 10 to 6 - they were closing at 6. Luckily, others had also been working or delayed and they kindly stayed open to allow us to taste till nearly 7 o'clock, for which we are very grateful
The tasting was held in Durbanville Hills' spacious restaurant with great views, a good venue for something like this, unless you are vying g with going home traffic
Old friend, hotelier Michael Pownall, was busy tasting when we got there and was able to point us to some gems
The Cabernet Sauvignon wines available for tasting. Many have some age and are from well known wine farms. The Glenelly magnum really impressed John
Lynne tasted mostly white wines and found some good Sauvignons Blanc. Good to see Almenkerk there this year
A small but good selection of wines in the Other White varietals. The Semillons rocked. The Viognier is a little shy, waiting to come to the fore
Our marvellous white blends. Some very exciting wines here.
Lynne tasted all the Chardonnays and was impressed with the strength and depth of this varietal. Wooded or unwooded, they are an elegant group
The great and the good in the Chenin patch. We suspect the Forrester Meinert FMC will, as usual, soar and we particularly enjoyed the two Remhoogte wines 2011 & 2013 Honeybunch
Bottles of the JC Le Roux Scintilla 2003 entered for the Auction. It appears to have been used as a welcome drink
Then the classic Bordeaux Blends. Jordan’s magnum of Cobblers Hill 2009 was showing well, but then it always does. There were lots to taste. One or two were a little tired
Lynne and Michael trying the large Shiraz/Syrah group
Everyone who was left trying to taste as quickly as possible before they closed
The port selections. These always do so well and there are some aged gems
Noble Late Harvest. These are our jewels. We wish locals would appreciate them more. Overseas recognition is growing for their honeyed fruit, clean acid sugar balance, purity and long life. The 1979 Nederburg Edelkeur deserves its iconic status, dark brown in  colour, but still rich and unctuous, the sweetness and acidity in perfect balance
Talking to Michael van Deventer from Distell about his and our experiences
The Auction will be held at Nederburg on Friday, 16th and Saturday, 17th September 
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Ultra Mussels Wine Celebration at Den Anker Restaurant, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town

Muscling in on Mussels at Den Anker
We had been invited to Muratie for the Port Festival but sadly, without a car, we had to cancel. That meant we were able to take up Mark Norrish's (he heads the wine buying at Ultra) invitation to attend his annual Ultra Mussels Wine Celebration at Den Anker Restaurant, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town as we can get there and back by MyCiti bus
It was a glorious Saturday after a wet and cold week but we were all celebrating the news that at last El Nino has gone and the dams are filling up at last. We hope this means that the drought has broken its back. Den Anker looked resplendent
Mark Norrish tasting De Morgenzon's wines with owner Wendy Appelbaum
Blaauwklippen winemaker Narina Cloete shows her wines
You were given a glass, a list of the wines on tasting which were divided into wine made by Women and wine made by Men and some vouchers which got you a bowl of Den Anker’s famous mussels and some frites/ Everyone who could crammed themselves onto the terrace to enjoy the wines, the food and the views
Luke Krone organised the event and here he is announcing the lucky draw. You had to vote for your favourite wine of the day
The Glenelly team, Jerome Likwa and Luke O’Cuinneagain
Mark announces the winner
She collects her prize, which was a hamper and a visit to a wine farm
Can you look a bit happier!
Ernie Els cellarmaster Louis Strydom behind competitor Kleine Zalze’s wines, which were on the opposite counter. The beer taps made an interesting counterpoint to the wine bottles
His wife, Rianie Strydom, with her wines from Dombeya and Haskell
Yes please, that would be very nice. JC le Roux winemaker Elunda Basson with a keen admirer of bubbly
Louis talks about his Ernie Els wines
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016