Sunday, March 19, 2017

Lunch at Jardine, Jordan wine estate, Stellenbosch

This has become an annual event, as our friends from Holland just love having lunch at this restaurant on Peter's birthday, which occurs while they are here for two months. We are huge fans of George Jardine's food, so we too always enjoy the day
It had been a lovely rainy morning so, initially, everyone was seated inside
The menu. It changes regularly, due to seasonal ingredients becoming available. There are now three choices per course. Previously the starters and mains had five items, which did give one a bit more choice. John cannot eat mushrooms, so he only had one choice of main this time
We were a party of 7. This was the most ordered starter, tender springbok tartare, salt and sugar cured, in an aioli served in a marrow bone. It was complemented by black garlic, picked onion, plum and radish slivers, smoky deep fried crumbed morsels of bone marrow, with dehydrated fennel. It sounds overwhelming, it was not, the springbok shone, the rest all added different tastes and textures to it
The second starter showcased two plump West Coast oysters, one in batter, the other steamed, set in chawanmushi (a gentle seafood flavoured egg custard), pickled shiitake mushrooms, marinated sea lettuce seaweed, edamame beans and ginger soy dressing
The third starter was a Porterville beetroot extravaganza. So pretty. Crisps, puréed, baked, sauced, and boiled. Served with fresh raspberries, which were also freeze dried then powdered to dust, and a Goats cheese mousse. You did have to love beetroot! We drank the Jordan Inspector Peringuey Chenin Blanc with the starters, its 'rich and ripe' a full flavoured Chenin and it went so well with all the starters, and some of the mains
On to the main courses. This was the porcini dusted East coast hake fillet, served with butter fettuccine, a roasted porcini fricassee, and a porcini velouté (a smooth deep soup) poured around the edges. Topped with parmesan cheese and watercress. Much enjoyed by the mushroom lovers, who said the fish was perfectly cooked
This was the most popular main, Tender herb crusted duck breast, pink inside, on a rich celeriac puree, with a hazelnut butter, in the centre a layered sweet potato and apple crumble and those beautiful grilled fresh figs. There was a small amount of concentrated jus, some pea shoots and then there was the controversial kale, which was young. Our Dutch friends love it, they eat it often; we are not so sure. It seems to be picked too late here, it can be like glass and getting used to that intense bitter minerality is tough for some of us
The vegetarian’s choice was pan roasted miso Gnocchi, in a mushroom bouillon, with charred leeks, fried shimeji mushrooms and compressed cucumber, topped with micro greens. She loved it
Pouring the bouillon. We ordered another bottle of the Chenin for those who wanted to stay on white wine and a bottle of the Jordan Prospector Syrah, Rhône style; it matched the duck well, adding to the experience
Ah how can one resist side order of these lovely oven roasted duck fat chips. We also had a side salad
Time for dessert for those with room left. Two had a trip to the cheese room, a great experience. You can chose five from a huge selection of great local cheeses. They said this was a superb part of their meal

This was the deconstructed carrot cake, with buffalo Chantilly, roasted peaches and peach ice cream, which rather disappointed on delivery, sadly, but not on flavour
For the birthday boy, a candle atop his portion of the Valrhona chocolate torte topped with white chocolate, with a smoked almond crumble, honeycomb, a caramel sauce and rich coffee ice cream. Lovely except for that smoky element which doesn't sit too well in a dessert. Lynne admired and tasted John's but could not manage dessert. Good coffees followed
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017

Tasting wine and a walk in the garden at De Morgenzon, Stellenbosch

On the way to lunch at Jordan, our friends asked to revisit De Morgenzon. They loved the tasting they had there last year and are in awe at the gardens and the featured vineyard, where Baroque music soothes the vines
The wine farm's office is inside the old traditional Cape Dutch building
We spotted winemaker Carl van der Merwe standing in the doorway and he came over to chat. We hear that the harvest has been excellent. Now he has the really hard work, making their excellent wines
Vines on the far hill, now picked, are putting on their autumn colours
The tasting room is in the building next door
We had had very welcome rain that morning so chose to sit indoors for the tasting, as the outside benches were a little damp
Some of the wines we tasted. We are never disappointed by the quality and our friends bought some Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc. Lynne was enchanted by the 2014 Grenache Noir and invested in a box of six, which will take up residence in our cellar for a couple of years. Full of wild dark licorice and rhubarb flavours, some spice, with good wood and tannin for structure
Lynne was delighted to see lotus growing in the dam. She would like it to grow in our koi pond (once our swimming pool)
And water lilies - yellow ...
... and pink
A perfect lotus flower with its distinctive leaves and unusual seed pods
An open blossom. It is a sacred flower in the East. In the classical written and oral literature of many Asian cultures the lotus is present in figurative form, representing elegance, beauty, perfection, purity and grace, being often used in poems and songs as an allegory for ideal feminine attributes. And many parts of the plant can be eaten
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017

Tuesday, March 14, 2017

This Week’s MENU. Heritage Square, Chefs Warehouse, Durbanville, Robertson Hands on Harvest,Granadilla and Raspberry Charlotte Russe, Bemind Cinsault


A Southern Double-collared Sunbird on a pink hibiscus flower, Van Loveren winery, Robertson
This has been a busy week. We have friends with us who come here from Holland every year and so we have been adventurous. They also love good wine and food, so we have taken them to several places that we have all enjoyed, some in the course of work, some not. In the past week we have visited Durbanville and then Robertson at the weekend, the latter meaning that we missed all the drama of the wind-blown, cancelled Cape Town Cycle Tour and the disastrous fire that destroyed over 3000 homes in Imizamo Yethu in Hout Bay. Returning from the peace of the Robertson Wine Valley to watching the fire fighting helicopters off the Sea Point beachfront was a big reality check

A look at Heritage Square, Cape Town     On our wedding anniversary last Wednesday, I had an hour to kill between doing my bit at a casting in Loop St and meeting Lynne at The Chef's Warehouse for a celebratory lunch. It had been a while since we had visited any of the fine collection of food and wine venues in this historic square complex, so I stuck my lens into a few corners. It is a collection of eighteenth century buildings which came frighteningly close to being demolished to make way for a freeway in the 1990s. The quadrangle in the middle of the square is the home of what is believed to be the oldest grape vine in the country, possibly planted in the 1770s 

Anniversary lunch at the Chefs Warehouse     Last Wednesday was our Wedding Anniversary. We are rather surprised to find we have been married for 14 years, it has gone so quickly and been so much fun. We like to celebrate with a good meal out, somewhere we have heard about before but not yet been to. Liam Tomlin opened this store/restaurant in 2014 when they moved from their old site in Bree Street and we have been trying to go for a very long time. Quite difficult as we are invited out to restaurants and wine farms, often several times in a week. It is on the corner of Heritage Square with the entrance in Bree Street, Number 92



A day in Durbanville    We wanted to take our Dutch friends on a local wine tour and Durbanville is very close to town. The weather was perfect and we began at Bloemendal, had lunch at Diemersdal (Lynne had heard very good things about the restaurant and we knew the wine was superb) and finished the day with at last sigh at the view from De Grendel. We began at Bloemendal, which we haven't visited for a while....

Robertson Wine Valley's Hands on Harvest - Saturday    Robertson beckoned and we responded. We saw details of the festival on the internet and, as we haven't been to their Harvest Festival for many years, we decided to take our Dutch friends. Lynne managed to find reasonable accommodation on Bookings.com. Each farm does its own thing during this festival and some need booking so we made some, helped by Mira Weiner of Hot Oven Marketing and had a great weekend with our friends

Robertson Wine Valley's Hands on Harvest - Sunday    What a contrast! After Saturday's blistering heat, we woke to wonderful soaking rain in our valley on Sunday. We had bacon and eggs and hot cross buns to soak up the intended wine, tidied up, packed and set off to return the keys in Robertson, all by 10 o'clock. We then headed for the Festival market at Viljoensdrift

Robertson ramblings    John woke to the welcome sound of rain on the roof and took a solo walk in the soft rain while the others slept; he was joined by an enthusiastic companion.....
Granadilla and Raspberry Charlotte Russe     This classic dessert was invented by Antoinin Carème, a master of French Cuisine who cooked for kings during his stay in St Petersburg, cooking for the Tsar in the early 19th century. A lovely summer dessert, this is fiddly but not at all difficult to make. You will have seen it on Great British Baker if you have been watching; they did make it look very complicated. You do need to make it in the morning to allow time to set, or the day before. You can use seedless pulp, but a few seeds tell what the fruit is. If it is not sharp enough, add a little lemon juice to taste. You can also use all sorts of different fruit. Bananas (use 5, mashed) make a lovely Charlotte, so do puréed berries


1 packet of lime or lemon jelly - 450 ml double or whipping cream - 50 ml granadilla pulp or freshly squeezed juice - 125 g fresh raspberries (or other berries) - a packet of finger (boudoir) biscuits - optional, juice of half a lemon

You need a deep dish with straight sides so that the finger biscuits can stand up. Lynne uses a 17 cm soufflé dish
Boil a kettle. Melt the jelly in 150 ml of boiling water; stir till the jelly is clear. Then add 300 ml cold water. Put a little jelly into the base of your dish, about 1 cm deep. Put the dish into the fridge until set. Keep the rest of the jelly mixture out of the fridge. While it is setting, trim the edges of the sponge fingers so that they will fit closely together. Shake off and discard the crumbs. Arrange some of the raspberries around the edges on the set jelly, use about 10 or 12 evenly spaced, and one in the middle. Add a little more jelly and return the dish to the fridge to set. Whip the cream until stiff, stir in the granadilla pulp and the raspberries. When the base jelly is nearly set, start dipping the finger biscuits briefly into the remaining jelly and line the sides of the dish with the fingers, sugary side outward. Make sure that they fit closely together; you don’t want leaks. Then add the remaining nearly set jelly to the cream mixture and spoon it into the dish. Chill till firm. Just before serving, trim off the tops of the biscuits so that they are level with the filling. Dip the base of the dish into hot water for a moment and put a round serving dish over the dish, invert it and lift it away. The charlotte should stand up on its own and show its beautiful jelly 'face'.
See the photograph.
TIP: If it looks like collapsing, tie a ribbon around it before serving

The wine we really liked and ordered for supper at Ilse Schutte's Bemind garagiste cellar in McGregor was the Cinsault. It is jewel bright almandine garnet. At first, dusty musty on the nose, then boysenberries arrive, fruity sweetness on the nose and ripe berries on the palate. It’s gentle and wild at the same time with some prune plum flavours on the end. So nice to see such a good expression of a much neglected grape. One to watch. Platter awarded it 3 stars in the 2017 edition. It sells for R120 from the cellar





14th March 2017
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© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017

MENU's Recipe of the Week: Granadilla and Raspberry Charlotte Russe

This classic dessert was invented by Antoinin Carème, a master of French Cuisine who cooked for kings during his stay in St Petersburg, cooking for the Tsar in the early 19th century. A lovely summer dessert, this is fiddly but not at all difficult to make. You will have seen it on Great British Baker if you have been watching; they did make it look very complicated. You do need to make it in the morning to allow time to set, or the day before. You can use seedless pulp, but a few seeds tell what the fruit is. If it is not sharp enough, add a little lemon juice to taste. You can also use all sorts of different fruit. Bananas (use 5, mashed) make a lovely Charlotte, so do puréed berries

(Photo: Yvonne Kampmeinert)

1 packet of lime or lemon jelly - 450 ml double or whipping cream - 50 ml granadilla pulp or freshly squeezed juice - 125 g fresh raspberries (or other berries) - a packet of finger (boudoir) biscuits - optional, juice of half a lemon

You need a deep dish with straight sides so that the finger biscuits can stand up. Lynne uses a 17 cm soufflé dish

Boil a kettle. Melt the jelly in 150 ml of boiling water; stir till the jelly is clear. Then add 300 ml cold water. Put a little jelly into the base of your dish, about 1 cm deep. Put the dish into the fridge until set. Keep the rest of the jelly mixture out of the fridge. While it is setting, trim the edges of the sponge fingers so that they will fit closely together. Shake off and discard the crumbs. Arrange some of the raspberries around the edges on the set jelly, use about 10 or 12 evenly spaced, and one in the middle. Add a little more jelly and return the dish to the fridge to set. Whip the cream until stiff, stir in the granadilla pulp and the raspberries. When the base jelly is nearly set, start dipping the finger biscuits briefly into the remaining jelly and line the sides of the dish with the fingers, sugary side outward. Make sure that they fit closely together; you don’t want leaks. Then add the remaining nearly set jelly to the cream mixture and spoon it into the dish. Chill till firm. Just before serving, trim off the tops of the biscuits so that they are level with the filling. Dip the base of the dish into hot water for a moment and put a round serving dish over the dish, invert it and lift it away

The Charlotte should stand up on its own and show its beautiful jelly 'face'. See the photograph

TIP: If it looks like collapsing, tie a ribbon around it before serving

MENU's Wine of the Week: Ilse Schutte's Bemind Cinsault 2016

The wine we really liked and ordered for supper at Ilse Schutte's Bemind garagiste cellar in McGregor was the Cinsault. It is jewel bright almandine garnet. At first, dusty musty on the nose, then boysenberries arrive, fruity sweetness on the nose and ripe berries on the palate. It’s gentle and wild at the same time with some prune plum flavours on the end
So nice to see such a good expression of a much neglected grape. One to watch

Platter awarded it 3 stars in the 2017 edition. It sells for R120 from the cellar
RETURN TO MENU
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017

Robertson Wine Valley's Hands on Harvest - Sunday

What a contrast! After Saturday's blistering heat, we woke to wonderful soaking rain in our valley on Sunday. We had bacon and eggs and hot cross buns to soak up the intended wine, tied up, packed and set off to return the keys in Robertson, all by 10 o'clock
We then headed for the Festival market at Viljoensdrift and, by the time we got there, the rain had stopped, so we could wander around and not get wet
We met viticulturist Martin Bruwer on the Quando table, with his wife Estelle and winemaker brother Fanus and, of course, had to taste the wine, of which we are rather fond
Next to them were Lourens and Lizelle van der Westhuizen on the Arendsig table. Beside making their own wine, Lourens makes for and consults to several local wine farms: Esona, Jan Harmsgat, Mimosa, Star Hill. They had a very good day on Saturday, with several events during the day, including a picnic and tasting on the side of the river on their farm
Jan Harmsgat had their wine and some cartons of their Pomegranate juice from their large orchards. We tasted it and it is very good, fresh and not too sweet. It does not taste earthy and dark, as if it has beetroot juice added to it, as some of the other brands do. Lynne could not resist buying a box. It lasts up to 2 weeks in the fridge, apparently. If unopened, for a year
Tasting some olives, oil and new wines
Lots to taste. You could buy a glass for R20
You know it's a real market when you can buy freshly picked country vegetables; things to eat there or take home
Things for children and a neck wine holder made of leather
Jumping castles for bouncing and ponies to ride
Scarves for sale, 3 for R100
Warm popcorn and chilly kids at the play corner
Real leather bags for sale
And two Rottweilers, who brought their human from Cape Town. Well, someone has to like them, they look a little scary; these were very well-behaved and friendly
Good looking cakes
Ashton cellars and Lynne, their representative, whom we'd met on Saturday at the cellar
Now we are talking. We so enjoyed tasting the wines from DeWetshof. 3 excellent chardonnays and a Cabernet Sauvignon were on offer
Wishing it would warm up on the Rietvallei table
and tasting and chatting on the Bon Courage table
A tiny warm wriggly Muppet!
Fanus Bruwer of Quando wines
Estelle Bruwer
Suddenly it was time for lunch and the sun came out. So off we went to Van Loveren, where the entrance to the tasting room frames the palm avenue and the view toward the Langeberg mountains,
to see their beautiful gardens
and see what they could offer for lunch
Tables outside the restaurant, which had rather loud live music
So we found a table a little way away, under the trees
We ordered a bottle of the Christina 2016 Chardonnay and were so impressed we had another with lunch. It was a lazy lunch and took us a good 3½ hours. It is crisp and elegant, lightly wooded and full of buttery citrus flavours. The poor driver had a few sips and watched
The Mexican burger, topped with guacamole and served with a killer chilli sauce; nice and spicy. We were served crisp chips instead of the potato wedges on the menu, but didn't mind at all
The mushroom burger comes topped with cheese, mushrooms and served with a creamy mushroom sauce. Heaven (but not for John!)
The pizzas are huge with very thin bases. This was the Margarita, topped with capers and anchovies, pesto and olives
The Springbok Carpaccio and rocket topped pizza. Both were enjoyed and some went home in a box for later
Huge colourful koi at our last stop, the Graham Beck winery
The reflecting pool with a little wind on it. At the end, one of the many sculptures bought by Graham Beck; a rider. Another looking like a lily pad is in the centre of the pool.
A display of huge champagne bottles showing the riddling technique
The tasting counter. Bubbles at the ready
The line up of Riedel tasting glasses. All these MCC bubblies are worth tasting and buying. Winemaker Pieter (Bubbles) Ferreira really does know how to make the best, in the traditional French champagne style. The nearest glass contains the top MCC: Cuvée Clive, now tasted in the new style champagne glass, which you can buy in the shop
Time to go home and find out that the Cape Town Cycle Tour had been cancelled due to extreme winds and a terrible fire in Hout Bay. Glad that we had such a relaxing time with no wind