Thursday, March 13, 2014

An introduction to Oldenburg

The visit to this wine farm on Tuesday was a first for us. It has also been called Rondekop after the round hill in the middle of the farm. Oldenburg is owned by Adrian van der Spuy, whose family Trust owned the farm. He is an investment banker who lives in Switzerland who visits regularly. In 2001 on a regular visit back to the Cape, he tasted Thelema 1998 Cabernet and was inspired to buy back the farm from the family trust and start planting good terroir specific grapes. Now, 14 years later, they have a good portfolio of wines, mostly reds. We started the day with a glass of their lovely rich and golden Chenin Blanc and went on to taste the others with lunch
The tasting venue set in this most beautiful valley
A long table had been set up for the tasting and lunch in the middle of the cool tasting room. It has marvellous views of the mountains and of Rondekop hill where the grapes are planted 360 degrees around the hill, behind it.
Nice solid modern design. This is the tasting room counter
Another view of the tasting room
The stunning view from the Tasting room of the Drakenstein mountains on the left, Rondekop hill in the centre, and the Jonkershoek mountains on the right. Even at this height above sea level, they have lots of mountain springs and a river running through the property
Raymond Noppé, their Regional Manager, is also a Cape Wine Master. He told us the history of the farm, the vines and the wine
The tasting room staff, who looked after us very well indeed: Marietjie Willemse
Cellar door and Office Manager and Louisa Adonis, Receptionist / Front of House
Raymond told us that Oldenburg is not currently an Estate because, while they do grow all their own grapes, they do not yet have a cellar, so all the grapes are vinified on Glenelly . They will be building a cellar on Oldenburg in the next few years.
Winemaker Simon Thompson has been with Oldenburg since 2009. He briefly and generously joined us for lunch as he is right in the middle of harvest at the moment
Everyone was delighted to discover that our lunch was being prepared by Chef/caterer Craig Cormack of the Goose Roasters. We all know his food well.
The first course, served with the 2012 Chardonnay, was seared gnocchi with wild mushrooms, an intense mushroom puree and a truffle espuma. It was truly wonderful and very inspiring for the home cook like Lynne
John had the Gnocchi with the truffle espuma


Oldenburg’s flagship 2011 Syrah is made in the Rhône style and has white pepper, and berries on the nose and rhubarb, mulberries and hot spicy peppers, spices and some vanilla, from the use of a little US oak, on the palate
A selection of wines to taste with our main course: Their interesting 2011 Cabernet Franc really impressed with the black olives and savoury umami, cassis and ripe brambles nose. It has great richness and savouriness on top of full on fruit on the palate and finishes with a nice dark toasted oak flavour.
Definitely a great match for the main course of tender fillet steak on a carrot puree with a potato gallete and a rich wine jus.
Raymond takes us through the tasting. At the head of the table is Ina Basson who is the Sales & Marketing Manager for the farm. And on the right Anel Grobler and Jan Loubser of Spit or Swallow. We also tasted the 2010 Cabernet, It is full of fruitcake aromas with violets, cassis and lead pencils and a complete cassis motherload on the palate. A classic. Then finally Rhodium 2010 which is their flagship wine. A classic Bordeaux blend of 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine needs lots more time but will take them places when it is ready. The 2011, soon to be released, also has Petit Verdot and Malbec. We did not taste this.
Dessert was small and superb. A rich brioche pain perdu, topped with a roasted plum and good rich vanilla ice cream and surrounded by a crème anglaise.
The elegant lounge area
From the other side. It also has great views
A classic Cape mountain vista, one painted many, many times by artists. These are the Drakenstein mountains – translated it means the Dragon’s Mountain and you can see his smoke rising above it when the South Easter starts to blow. This famous Cape wind, also called the Cape Doctor, funnels down from the gap in the middle of the mountains and has a major cooling affect on the vines of Oldenburg. It blows down between the rows of vines which are planted specifically in that direction to get the benefits.
Thank you to Oldenburg and Manley, their PR company, for organising efficient and good transport (Kenneth at A2B Tours) for us to get to and from the farm. We had a lovely day

© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2014

Taj Classic Wine Trophy Award Dinner

Once a year, several fairly eminent French wine trade people come to South Africa and judge the local wines that are entered into this very interesting competition sponsored by the Taj Hotel. We so wish more farms would enter, because there were some huge gaps, especially not enough Chenin blanc, which they say they really appreciated, no viogniers and none of our best white blends, even though the judges say we are making stunning Semillon and not showcasing it enough.
We had a good dinner and each table had a bottle of each of the winning wines to share over dinner, so we had a really great experience with some excellent wines. Many of the winning winemakers had wrested themselves away from a very busy harvest to be there, so it made for a very happy and joyous evening
Sadly the head judge, Olivier Poussier, (the Best Sommelier in the World competition winner, wine consultant, writer and group sommelier of Lenôtre), seems to dislike our Sauvignons blanc – many of us think perhaps he has not tasted enough of them or the right ones.... He says we don’t have the right terroir and fairly obviously prefers French but really likes those made in Australia and New Zealand where pyrazines are a feature. .. He doesn’t like our pyrazines. Lynne had quite a conversation with him as he left, mostly in French, and he said he had enjoyed the competition very much. The Award ceremony was ably MC’d by Neil Pendock
The award is a plaque rather than a trophy
The menu for dinner. All the winning wines were served with the meal and every table had a bottle of each
Small torchon of chicken with Poached pear and camomile served as an Amuse Bouche
The starter was the best dish. Franschhoek trout in an Asian marinade with salmon caviar and lemon. A perfect match for the only Chenin Blanc to win , the magnificent De Morgenzon 2013 Reserve Chenin Blanc
The line up of the white wine Trophy winners. We also started the evening with glasses of Villiera’s trophy winning 2008 elegant Monro Brut MCC
Our table companions lined up all the wines in front of them and it was a little difficult to get their attention and get some of them to taste
John did manage to get a photograph of all the red Trophy winners
Our main course of seared loin of veal with sweetbreads and garlic mash. Our veal was very PC and nice and dark in colour, obviously not a crated baby animal. And it was a sizeable steak they served.
Riana Hall sat through the awards next to Lynne till the end of dinner, thinking she had not won anything and then with dessert she was at last presented with her trophy for her stunningly good Rudera Noble Late Harvest Dessert wine, So well deserved and she was so delighted.
Award winners Vineyard manager Floricius Beukes and Winemaker Boela Gerber From Groot Constantia get the award for their 2013 Chardonnay and Gouverneurs Reserve 2011 which was one of our favourite wines of the evening
Dessert was a raspberry Baked Alaska
Carolyn Martin of Creation Wines comes to congratulate Riana Hall for winning the NLH Trophy
Some of the trophy winners
Wendy and Hilton Appelbaum looking happy after the Awards
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2014

L'Avenir relaunch

This well known Stellenbosch farm with good French Connections has been rather silent over the past year or two and, last Thursday night, they threw an excellent party on the lawns of the farm to relaunch them back into the midst of the vibrant SA wine industry. The party was opened by Antoine Leccia the CEO of Advini Wine Group in France, who are part owners of L’Avenir. The wines were served at stations around the garden and each wine was matched with two dishes, one of French origin and one of South African origin. Not all of the matches worked, some of the food being a little misunderstood by our local chefs (please don’t roast rabbit dry! Casserole it) but some of the matches and the dishes were divine. We particularly raved about the Steak au Poivre versus the Championship Boerewors served with the Classic Reserve Pinotage. This wine is epic, a Pinotage Lynne, (pathologically not a Pinotage fan) would drink anytime of the day or night, could she get her hands on it. And we do have a little. If only all of it could be made this way. It is silky soft and full of deep dark fruit and not one hint of any metallic or rusty flavours or any sweaty leather
Warmly welcomed by Rebekka Swiegers with a glass of their MCC Pinotage Brut rosé bubbly
The menu with the two pairings for each wine
Chatting at one of the wine and food stations
The Far and Near Pinotage Rosé stand
An unidentified canapé
Beetroot cured salmon ...
...or Pork terrine with the Rosé
The salmon on bread topped with avocado
Antoine Leccia, the CEO of Advini Wine Group, tells us about the links with the farm and what they are trying to achieve for the future
A rapt audience sips some bubbly
Andre Morgenthal of WOSA
Tables to sit at with food and wine
L’Avenir’s tasting room
Snails wrapped in filo pastry and fried crisp, was not too kind to the snails
Deep fried pumpkin fritters
Prawns for the Cape Malay prawn curry. We were given prawns and rice but someone forgot to put on the curry sauce
Cooking the curry sauce over a gas flame. It did exist
Springbok loin on a bed of cauliflower puree, also missing its Pinotage jus and Pinotage Jelly
Roasted rabbit
A classic Tarte Tatin, which John missed tasting as he left it too late. It was delicious
Slivers of an absolutely decadent chocolate tart
Checkers' Championship Boerewors. This man really knew how to cook this superb sausage
Cooking in almost complete darkness, he produced moist and perfectly cooked Boerewors. The French were ecstatic about it, as were we
It was served with roosterbrood – bread cooked on the braai coals
The best dish of all: Steak au Poivre. Steak in a cream and brandy pepper sauce. Tender beyond belief which, as there was no cutlery, it needed to be
This was also cooked by the best sausage braaier in the world. We must know his name
A farewell hug for Lynne and Sonja Delport from Barend Barnard, National Sales Manager. It really was a lovely party
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2014

Anniversary dinner at the Fords

Our table had to be extended so that 10 could be seated around it
A baked gammon with peaches. See this week’s recipe
Orzo (rice shaped pasta) with a Thai basil pesto and mini tomatoes from our vertical drainpipe garden
Smoked chicken, fresh figs and gorgonzola salad
Calamari steak strips in a chilli, ginger and garlic Asian sauce with tamarind, fish sauce, and palm sugar
Marinated Asian prawns and crayfish with a mango and basil coulis and a mango salsa Thanks to Chef Raymond Blanc for the crayfish recipe

We also served a potato salad with chives and celery, seaweed and we started with ciabatta rolls and chicken liver paté






© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2014