Tuesday, November 15, 2016

Caperitif Cacophony - Adi Badenhorst launches Caperitif

This was a relaunch, not of a wine but of an historic aperitif: Caperitif, known since the early part of the 20th Century. It was held on Adi Badenhorst's Swartland farm Kalmoesfontein on Guy Fawkes day. Not a glass of wine in sight, we spent the day tasting first Rooibos Caperitea, listening to entertaining talks by Adi, Wim Tijmens, Dave Hughes and Lars-Erik Schmidt. Time then for a horizontal tasting of the five different batches released so far of this great aperitif and then five different expertly mixed cocktails. We just sipped, honestly. This was followed by a fun retro lunch prepared by Adi's rather well known mother, talented chef Judy Badenhorst, who used to run the River Cafe restaurant on Constantia Uitsig. What a celebration!
During the rambunctious, hedonistic eras when the South African Gold Rush took place and Johannesburg was founded in the 1880's, there was lots of spending, celebrating, dancing and drinking. Caperitif, a genuine South African product, was born. It's a vermouth-like aperitif made from wine, fortified with alcohol and infused with Quinchona bark and aromatics, which can be served on its own over ice, with a slice of lemon and a mixer or in cocktails. Back then cocktails named the Barney Barnato, the Modder Rivier and the Oom Paul were created. This aperitif also inspired barmen all over the world and it became an ingredient in many famous cocktails, written about and used in many famous cocktail books, like the Savoy's. But then in about 1910 it disappeared, along with the company who made it and more importantly, the recipe. It became known as the Ghost ingredient. But some ancient bottles do still exist
In 2014 Lars-Erik Schmidt, a Danish mixologist, approached Adi Badenhorst and together they have recreated a 21st century version. They use Chenin Blanc fortified with spirit, gently sweetened by the sugar of the grapes, bittered by Quinchona bark and flavoured with some 35 truly Cape ingredients such as fynbos, kalmoes and naartjies (tangerines) and they make a dry tonic, Swaan, to go with it. Its ingredients are spring water with natural botanicals – quinine, lime, cardamom and mint, with thankfully less sugar
Bread, butter and apricot jam , a traditional country starter served with the Rooibos Caperitea
Dave Hughes, Andre Badenhorst and Adi Badenhorst
In the cellar where they make the Caperitif
Every guest was given this box filled with some of the aromatics, essences and infusions that go into it. Plus a sample
Speeches about to start
Swartland winemaker Eben Sadie
Adie tells us about the journey
Dave Hughes gives us the history of Caperitif
A large audience
Wim Tijmens has travelled the world hunting for plants. He spent more than 35 years as curator of the Stellenbosch University Botanical Garden (1962 – 1999). He spoke very amusingly about edible plants, fynbos, and the ingredients that go into Caperitif.
He is quite a character. It was very informative
Lars-Erik Schmidt, the Danish mixologist, told us of the chance meeting with Adi Badenhorst and how they eventually got together to recreate Caperitif
The Swartland vines, wheat and barley fields at the beginning of summer, from the farmhouse
The cellar with its historic vats
Some of the different batches of Caperitif
The vat with one of our favourite wines made by Adi Badenhorst, his 2016 Secateurs SB? Yes, above all!
The children helped out collecting the empty glasses. Here Chef Margot Janse chats to her son Jan Hendrik (wearing the hat)
Nice smile!
Grandfather Badenhorst, André, supervising
Many of the ingredients are grown in the farm vegetable and herb gardens
Chef Margot enjoying the sunshine and the day
Getting to the cocktails under the grape arbour
The boys doing a great job shaving ice for the cocktails
One of the five cocktail stations
This was the Jabberwock: 1/3 Gin, 1/3 dry sherry, 1/3 Caperitif, 2 dashes orange bitters
The back of the bottle has a story
Lunch would be on the stoep. Herbs hung to keep away the flies
Retro canapés come out. Oysters Rockefeller. We also had Devils on horseback (bacon wrapped prunes), stuffed eggs and superb mushroom vol au vents with buttery crackly melting pastry. Time to bring some of these back. Perhaps not the pineapple cheese though
Another cocktail being served, the Barney Barnato
Dave Hughes amused at the pineapple and cheese porcupine from his past
We were given coasters with the cocktail recipes
A basket full of ingredients
Another cocktail recipe using Caperitif
The makings
This was the horizontal tasting of the 5 batches. Lynne tasted them all and they were quite different, but all good. 1 had notes of cinnamon and vanilla and lime. 2 Rose water Mum's face powder, cinnamon, marmalade , lime, sweeter and more bitter. 3. Citrus, cats pee, herbs, crisp juicy yellow berries, nice acidity and good bitter/sweet balance. 4. Herbal, fenugreek, curry leaf, sour citrus, cinnamon, clove, sweet with Noble Late Harvest characteristics, bitter wood and a toasty end. Very much the favourite of the day by most people. And very like sweet Vermouth. 5 is herbal with cloves, sharp citrus, and a nice buzz of alcohol
Sommelier Ewan McKenzie inspecting at the infusions
Very friendly farm dog with fantastic eyebrows, exhausted by all the attention
The front stoep. All the action was happening in the kitchen beyond
A beetroot jelly, coleslaw, potato salad topped with radishes
a cucumber jelly and super tender ham with pineapple rings, cherries and a soft mustard sauce. Very satisfying food
A pistachio and pork terrine - absolutely fabulous. Not sure we are ready for the savoury moulded jellies....
Help yourself from the buffet
Jan Boland Coetzee enjoying a Jan Smuts cocktail
The recipe
Lemons and cloves to keep away the flies
Adi explaining the cocktails and how the Caperitif was recreated
Barista Sasha Petras from Milk and Honey on the East Side in Manhattan NY showed us how to make a cocktail for the masses in a large enamel bowl. They want to grow the cocktail consuming crowd. In the 1930s, there were 1700 recipes. The definitive book is the Savoy Hotel Cocktail book
Pouring into the coupe glasses. His best advice; serve cold but keep the ice in the mixer, not in the glass
Organiser PRO Ann Ferreira talking to Eben Sadie
Sitting down to lunch
We had to leave just as these profiteroles were being served
A very busy Judy Badenhorst says Bye!
A picture postcard view of the Swartland from a farm window
Secret formulae? Cat looking on
Farm horses and a pony, allowed out as the guests leave
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Sunday, November 13, 2016

Nedbank Getaway Green Wine Awards public tasting

This was held on the top floor of the Nedbank offices in the V&A Waterfront, which has wonderful views of Cape Town and our mountain. It was a chance for the public to taste the winners. Check them out here http://www.greenwineawards.com/
The gathering. Wines were dotted around the room. There were 4 red wines and 5 white wines. one of which was a Noble Late Harvest
Getaway Editor Neil Piper and head judge Dr Winnie Bowman CWM opened the tasting
Jon Meinking was one of the two bloggers who voted. Here he is with several wine bloggers
Neil Piper tells us what we can taste
Yes Mum! Winnie Bowman and John Meinking discuss the wines
Listening to speeches with a glass of wine is always best
Alistair Pearce, the Divisional Executive at Nedbank Corporate Banking: Western Cape, welcomed the guests
John and Winnie discuss the wines they judged
The Paul Cluver Noble Late Harvest 2014 was the judges' overall winner. We so agree. It's a floral honey pot on the nose with thick flower honey opening up on the palate to lime and loquat flavours and more honey and lemon on the end. A superb wine
Vondeling's 2015 Babiana won the Bloggers award. It's an easy drinking layered single vineyard Chenin Blanc with notes of peaches and apricots, lively acidity and nice soft oak supporting it. It goes so well with food
John tells us what the Bloggers were looking for
Getaway editor Neil Piper and Kathryn Frew of Ramsey Media doing the ticket stub lucky draw at the end
Please draw out the winning ticket
The Judges’ Best Red Wine was the Gabrielskloof The Blend 2014 Round rich spicy nose, dark fruit hay and soft initially then a full berry fruit bomb. It needs to age and will do so well. We opened a bottle of the ? recently and it was magnificent.
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Doolhof's new releases with lunch at Dash restaurant, Queen Victoria Hotel in the V&A Waterfront

Doolhof launched their new vintage wines at Dash restaurant at the Queen Victoria Hotel recently. Five were from their Signatures range, and one from their Legends of the Labyrinth portfolio. Doolhof is below the Bains Kloof pass in the newly proclaimed Limietberg ward of Wellington, there are fourteen wines in their wine portfolio
The hotel entrance
Canapés of ricotta cheese dusted with fresh coriander and a lemon gel. The canapés were served with the Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2016 and the Single Vineyard Unwooded Chardonnay 2016 - both showed the terroir they come from, fresh, warm and slightly tropical
Oat biscuits topped with smoked mackerel and cape gooseberry gel. Sadly, there were bones in the mackerel
No one volunteered to play
Johan Fourie, General Manager, Doolhof Wine Estate
Winemaker Gielie Beukes told us that Terroir analysis is happening in Wellington. They know what they can do well; there are small pockets on each vineyard that produce different things, And there are different aspects to each vineyard, so they know what can be used for which wine. The Single vineyard range is extending the Sauvignon Blanc by one block, the Chardonnay by 2. The vines are getting older, they have very little leaf roll; some of the 25 year old vineyards will be replanted, but they are looking after what they have. There is a renewal of farming practices and clean farming. There is very little organic material naturally, so they are putting it in with mulching and cover crops
An attentive audience
Angelo Casu, GM of Grand Dedale Country House on Doolhof, told us about their much awarded 5 star accommodation and its guests. Bain’s House, adjacent to the existing Manor House, is currently being refurbished and extended and next year will have an extension with 4 suites, a boardroom and a sauna and larger Spa. The restaurant is exclusively for staying guests
Time for lunch and to taste the other wines with it. This was a spicy curried mussel velouté, with coconut, charred cucumber and orange puree. It was served with the 2014 Single Vineyard Pinotage which has nice fruit but was rather overwhelmed by the chilli in the soup
Then the 2015 Single Vineyard Malbec with tender and moist Confit pork belly, served with two cracklings, one crisp and one gooey, both excellent, heavy gnocchi, a bacon and cheese mousse (wanted more) and compressed apple which was a nice fresh contrast. The  Malbec was fruity and deep and went well with this course
The third course of very rare, just seared ostrich on a date and coffee sauce was good, the pickled rose petals were strange and the addition of watermelon konfyt was a huge mistake, it was much too sweet and again overwhelmed the wine. Served with the 2015 Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc, which is savoury and delicate but a full depth of fruit
One thing we would ask of all restaurants: Please train your waiters, when there is a formal wine tasting with lunch, NOT to clear the other wine glasses. Leave them on the table till the dessert. We do like to see which wines go better with the courses and sometimes the wines just need time to open
Then dessert served with Theseus 2011, part of the Doolhof Legends of the Labyrinth range, is a classic Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. The wine is sweet and sour with blackberry, black cherry and cassis and some chalky tannins so built to last. The dessert was odd. We liked the dehydrated chocolate mousse, tasting like a Horlicks malted milk chocolate and the red wine caramel sauce with raisings played to the wine. But smoked chocolate was perhaps a bridge too far. It was very smoky
Dash has a new Executive chef, Stellenbosch born and bred Germaine Esau. He was a finalist in the Chefs who Share – Young Chef Award in 2015 while still working as a junior Sous Chef at Majeka House in Stellenbosch, which inspired him to create the new Dash menu which will be a fusion of classical French dishes with a modern twist. The new menu will be launched in November 2016. The press release from Newmark Hotels says: "Arguably one of the most innovative chefs in the country, Germaine is described as a visionary genius and someone who can create combinations and masterpieces that other chefs would not attempt"
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Thursday, November 10, 2016

How NOT to .....

We don't want to sound too precious, but sometimes we have a restaurant experience we don't want to repeat. We suspect that it's a familiar experience for some of you too. At a recent visit to a Waterfront restaurant - not one we have written about in this issue, why would we? This is what they did wrong. The food was good, it usually is. They just got almost everything else wrong.
1. They now have outside seating and good views, both with ample seating but we were put right at the back, next to both the busy kitchen and toilet entrance. Not our favourite spot. Is this how they treat pensioners?
2. They didn't tell us about the Wednesday special, but we knew it existed, which was why we were there. So we asked for it. (We then told all the foreigners being seated next to us about it! and they were delighted).
3. The lighting - in a new space - was atrocious. Get this right please restaurants, we want to see our food
4. There was a large hair in on John's hamburger, we pointed it out, they ignored us
5. The portion of excellent ribs Lynne was served was enormous so we asked for a doggie bag. Refused point blank, said they don't do it on specials. Why? We know they do it normally. So she simply wrapped the food in a napkin and put it in her handbag. Why don't you offer a half portion on your menu, it would be popular
6. When the bill arrived, it was full charge for both dishes. We made them change it to the special
7. Service was very attentive, but only when we didn't need them. The bill took forever to come and we needed to be somewhere else

Will we be back? Ummmmmm
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Wednesday, November 09, 2016

This Week's MENU. Restaurant Week at Raya Kitchen & Burger & Lobster, Lanzerac, Stark-Condé, Platter 2017, Sunset Beach Wines, Wine & Recipe of the week

Summer is flirting with us at the moment, we have warm days then it is chilly and a little cloudy. Drought is with us again and severe water restrictions in the Cape came into effect on the 1st of November, so we just wish it would rain
Later than we intended, again. There simply isn't enough time to attend functions, write notes, edit pictures, fix broken bits of house etc., etc. but we enjoy pretty well all the things we report on, and hope to entertain you with our stories
 Stark-Condé Vertical and Japanese lunch
Restaurant Week     Restaurant Week now happens nationally twice a year, April and October. Selected restaurants enter and often they are new venues needing exposure. For 10 days you can have a 2 course lunch starting from R150 and a three course dinner from R200. Better restaurants add stars and that means they can add R50 in increments or stars, according to how good they think they are. You can view the limited menu on offer on line and, if you register early as a VIP, you can book before others. One thing we don't like is when restaurants don't publish a menu and just say "We will surprise you". We won't go to those. What if they served only something we don't eat, we dislike or are allergic to? Try harder, it is all about attracting customers to your style of food; often we have no idea what you serve. You will get more guests.
Restaurant Week dinner at Raya Kitchen, Nelson Mandela Square     We are generally so busy doing media functions that we don't often get a chance to eat out at newer restaurants and as we had a bit of a window between events, we grabbed the chance to visit two that attracted us this time. Raya was originally an extension of Kitima, the very popular Thai/Asian Restaurant in Hout Bay, but is now independently owned. Now you can eat the same style of food in the centre of Cape Town, as they are in the Mandela Rhodes Building on Wale Street
A visit to Lanzerac, cellar tour, tasting, lunch and a look at the newly refurbished accommodation      Lanzerac has been making changes since we last visited in 2013 when Christo Wiese sold the farm. They invited us to come and see some of them and have some lunch last week. We were delighted to find that Barend Barnard, whom we know from L'Avenir, has just been appointed General manager. It was his first week. We had a great wine tasting with winemaker Wynand Lategan and lunch with Barend
Lunch at Burger & Lobster, Cape Town     Another Restaurant Week place to try was Burger and Lobster. It would be fair to say that crayfish or lobster is high on the list Lynne's favourite foods. And John is rather fond of good Hamburgers. So, when we saw this restaurant on the Restaurant Week list, it was almost a foregone conclusion that we would go to find out what was on offer. And it's a surprise, they offer only two dishes, a lobster roll and a hamburger
Stark-Condé Vertical and Japanese lunch     We received an invitation to Starke-Condé in the Jonkershoek Valley in Stellenbosch. It was an interesting invitation: The Japanese Ambassador to South Africa his Excellency Mr. Shigeyuki Hiroki was to present Mr Hans Peter Schröder, joint owner of Starke-Condé with a Certificate of Commendation, on behalf of the Minister of Foreign Affairs of Japan, for his role in fostering cultural relations with Japan. And after the presentation we would be do a vertical tasting of Starke-Condés Three Pines Cabernet Sauvignon Jonkershoek Valley from 2000. A first for this farm. Then a Japanese themed luncheon. How could we refuse.
Launch of the 2017 John Platter Wine Guide      This is the quintessential guide of South African wine. It is not totally comprehensive, some wineries do not wish to be included but their names and contact details are included if not their wines. We use it daily as a reference book and many of you use it as a travel guide when you want to visit farms and as a purchase guide when choosing which wines to buy. The 37th edition was released on the 31st of October and this year the cover is Forest Green. We were at the launch and could taste all the five star wines (95 to 100 points). Well nearly all. OK, some. There are 95 wines and 13 Brandy/Husk spirits with five stars.
Sunset Beach Wines 6th birthday     Mark and Louise Herd, who own Sunset Beach Wines in Table View, invited us to join them when they held a party to celebrate their 6th birthday. Mark can be seen at every important tasting, keeping up with developments, to make sure that customers in the Blaauwberg area have an excellent choice
How NOT to     We don't want to sound too precious, but sometimes we have a restaurant experience we don't want to repeat. We suspect that it's a familiar experience for some of you too. At a recent visit to a Waterfront restaurant - not one we have written about in this issue, why would we? This is what they did wrong. The food was good, it usually is. They just got almost everything else wrong.
1. They now have outside seating and good views, both with ample seating but we were put right at the back, next to both the busy kitchen and toilet entrance. Not our favourite spot. Is this how they treat pensioners?
2. They didn't tell us about the Wednesday special, but we knew it existed, which was why we were there. So we asked for it. (We then told all the foreigners being seated next to us about it! and they were delighted).
3. The lighting - in a new space - was atrocious. Get this right please restaurants, we want to see our food
4. There was a large hair in on John's hamburger, we pointed it out, they ignored us
5. The portion of excellent ribs Lynne was served was enormous so we asked for a doggie bag. Refused point blank, said they don't do it on specials. Why? We know they do it normally. So she simply wrapped the food in a napkin and put it in her handbag. Why don't you offer a half portion on your menu, it would be popular
6. When the bill arrived, it was full charge for both dishes. We made them change it to the special
7. Service was very attentive, but only when we didn't need them. The bill took forever to come and we needed to be somewhere else
Will we be back? Ummmmmm

This recipe makes 12 individual tarts . We bought the tart cases ready made, but you can make your own and prebake them. Use a short crust pastry. When they are cooked and turned out, you make these two fillings, fill, cool and serve, so the pastry does not get cooked again.
Salted Caramel: ½ cup (125ml) single (pouring) cream - 25g butter - 165g white sugar - ¼ cup water - sea salt flakes
Before you start have the butter and cream ready and waiting on the side of the stove. In a small pan, mix the sugar and the water and bring to a boil. Let it reach 150C and turn to a nice dark (but not burnt) caramel. Remove from the heat and immediate put in the butter and cream. It will bubble up alarmingly, stir well until it subsides. Do not touch at this stage, it is like lava and will burn you. When it has cooled somewhat and you can taste a drop of it, add the salt to your taste, a quarter teaspoon is probably enough. Fill each tart case with the caramel to 2/3rd full. Leave space for the chocolate. Set aside to cool. When it has done so, it is time to make the ganache
Chocolate Ganache
75 g of good 70% or 85% dark chocolate - 1/4 cup of cream - a little sugar if necessary
Break up the chocolate and begin to melt it over warm water. Heat the cream separately to just below boiling point - it must not boil. Add to the melting chocolate and stir well till it combines into a thick ganache. If you overheat it, it will not be shiny. Taste and add a little sugar if it is too bitter for you, a teaspoon or 2 should do it. But don't forget the caramel is very sweet. Pour on enough to fill the tarts. Decorate each one with something small, like gold leaf, gold dust or a tiny edible flower
Nitida CWG 2010 Decorous Sauvignon Blanc, made by Bernhard Veller. Lynne bid for and got this wine on the Silent Auction at the Cape Winemakers Guild Auction a couple of years ago. We drank it this week with dinner guests. It shows so well how Sauvignon Blanc can age if kept in suitable storage. It is full of green peppers and elderflowers, gooseberries and lemons, but deep and full rather than racy and crisp. It went so well with the fresh tomato soup we served, adding to the soup, rather than overwhelming it
9th November 2016
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Recommendations of products and outside events are not solicited or charged for, and are made at the authors’ pleasure. All photographs, recipes and text used in these newsletters and our blogs are © John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus. Our restaurant reviews are usually unsolicited. We prefer to pay for our meals and not be paid in any way by anyone. Whether we are invited or go independently, we don’t feel bad if we say we didn’t like it. Honesty is indeed our best policy. While every effort is made to avoid mistakes, we are human and they do creep in occasionally, for which we apologise. This electronic journal has been sent to you because you have personally subscribed to it or because someone you know has asked us to send it to you or forwarded it to you themselves. Addresses given to us will not be divulged to any person or organisation. We collect them only for our own promotional purposes. If you wish to be added to our mailing list, please click here to send us a message and if you wish to be removed from our mailing list, please click here to send us a message.

On the MENU this week: Salted Caramel and Chocolate tarts

This recipe makes 12 individual tarts . We bought the tart cases ready made but you can make you own and prebake them. Use a short crust pastry. When they are cooked and turned out, you make these two fillings, fill, cool and serve, so the pastry does not get cooked again.
Salted Caramel: 1/2 cup (125ml)single (pouring) cream - 25g butter - 165g white sugar - 1/4 cup water - sea salt flakes
Before you start have the butter and cream ready and waiting on the side of the stove. In a small pan, mix the sugar and the water and bring to a boil. Let it reach 150C and turn to a nice dark (but not burnt) caramel. Remove from the heat and immediate put in the butter and cream. It will bubble up alarmingly, stir well until it subsides. Do not touch at this stage, it is like lava and will burn you. When it has cooled somewhat and you can taste a drop of it, add the salt to your taste, a quarter teaspoon is probably enough. Fill each tart case with the caramel to 2/3rd full. Leave space for the chocolate. Set aside to cool. When it has done so, it is time to make the ganache
Chocolate Ganache
75 g of good 70% or 85% dark chocolate - 1/4 cup of cream - a little sugar if necessary
Break up the chocolate and begin to melt it over warm water. Heat the cream separately to just below boiling point - it must not boil. Add to the melting chocolate and stir well till it combines into a thick ganache. If you overheat it, it will not be shiny. Taste and add a little sugar if it is too bitter for you, a teaspoon or 2 should do it. But don't forget the caramel is very sweet. Pour on enough to fill the tarts. Decorate each one with something small, like gold leaf, gold dust or a tiny edible flower
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

MENU's Wine of the week Nitida CWG 2010 Decorous Sauvignon Blanc made by Bernhard Veller

Lynne bid for and got this wine on the Silent Auction at the Cape Winemakers Guild Auction a couple of years ago. We drank it this week with dinner guests. It shows so well how Sauvignon Blanc can age if kept in suitable storage. It is full of green peppers and elderflowers, gooseberries and lemons, but deep and full rather than racy and crisp. It went so well with the fresh tomato soup we served, adding to the soup, rather than overwhelming it
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016