Thursday, November 09, 2017

Lunch at Buitenverwachting with Lars Maack and the new vintage wines

We know that it is a great privilege indeed to be able to do what we do. This would not be possible without invitations from the industry in which we work and we do appreciate it. So it was great to have lunch this week in the newly refurbished restaurant on the farm with GM Lars Maack, Sandy Bailey who looks after PR for the farm, and one other member of the media, journalist Graham Howe
There was a huge early winter storm in the Cape while we were travelling in Europe in May and during that storm the roof of Buitenverwachting's restaurant blew off. (We were following it on the Net from our laptops as we travelled) This has been replaced and necessitated a refurbishment of the venue. And what an impressive job they have done, with such smart design. The windows look larger and wider, the restaurant is lighter and fresher, the wood that has been used everywhere is so natural and modern and green
At one end of the restaurant they have built a small Vinoteque where you can taste older vintages of their wines. The design is very clever, as the slope of the shelves keeps the wine in the correct position with their corks down, and those facia boards are actually drawers containing more wine. We began with a glass of Buitenverwachting MCC Brut
The Wine library list
The wine lounge is comfortable for a relaxed tasting, reminding Lynne of some London Wine Bars. A comfotable place to relax with friends
The floor to ceiling windows let in so much more light, and the beautiful view of the vineyards and the mountain
We sat at a corner table and tasted some of the library wines
We began with the 2017 Sauvignon Blanc. R100 from the farm. An elegant nose with all the expected flavours of Constantia Sauvignon Blanc, quince and elderflower and a little green pepper, it is crisp, long and delicious, a food and quaffing wine. Marketed as Bayten in the USA at $19 a bottle, this sells very well in the USA, where they cannot pronounce Buitenverwachting. We followed with the Hussey’s Vlei Sauvignon Blanc, bottled just two weeks ago. Still shy on the nose, with hints of Constantia Sauvignon Blanc, clean crisp with limes, figs and green peppers, and a touch of salt, this has always been one of our favourite wines from Constantia. R120 a bottle. They use a combination of different yeasts to ferment the sugar, not to add flavour, and no acid is added to the wines as the grapes have their own fresh acidity
There are three menus to choose from. This is the Rustic Affairs menu
The Indulge Menu
And the Fine Bites menu with the suggested wine pairings
We ordered and continued to taste the wines while we waited for the first course
Time to taste the Maximus 2014. First made in 2009, this Blanc Fumé Sauvignon is so classy. Dusty on the nose with a whiff of smoke, with melons and quinces on the palate, full and integrated with the wood, this is a good food wine with some essential maturity. Lars then told us that they have now planted 10 hectares of Chenin in what looks like a first for Constantia; we await the resulting wine with excitement, especially given the global warming we experiencing. We should mention that Buitenverwachting have 8 4½ star wines in this year’s Platter Guide

The red wine served was the Meifort 2016. This wine sells for R80 from the farm and the 2015 was awarded the Trophy for the best red wine at the 2017 Old Mutual Trophy competition 
Time for the first courses. This is Vegetable garden Amuse Bouche from the Fine Bites menu which the others were having
Sandy is a vegetarian, so this was her amuse Bouche of raw and pickled vegetables
 And her first course of a sweet corn inspired dish
We had just ordered two courses each from the other menus, as we did not want to eat so many courses. So then Edgar sent us a small amuse of belly of pork on rye bread with red cabbage and cumin and horseradish, a good dish and a good wine pairing dish
A mini variation of the Caesar Salad, the first course from the Fine Bites menu
The large Caesar Salad we ordered from the Indulge menu was light and superb The seared Norwegian salmon was crisp and golden on the outside but still pink, moist and flaky in the centre, the bacon very crisp, and the small quail’s eggs bursting with runny yolk, crisp croutons and a good anchovy sauce and quarters of Cos lettuce. Not sure why there was a dollop of whipped cream on the plate though? We had this paired with a six year old Hussey’s Vlei Sauvignon Blanc, which is still fresh and lively and elegant, with limes, green peppers and elderflower. Not showing its age at all, just its quality
Raw tartare, marinated and seared tuna, in a 'spring roll', guacamole, pan fried baby gem lettuce and citrus dressing
2nd course on the Fine Bites menu, Carpaccio of Thai marinated ostrich eye fillet, with yum salad, black garlic and sesame
An amuse of Shallot and Madumbe crema soup with a dusting of truffle. Madumbe is an indigenous starchy root vegetable, resembling potato
Third course on Fine Bites, Grilled Angel Fish topped with Seafood, with potatoes in caldeirade sauce, with chermoula
We all had the Lime Vodka and Chilli sorbet as a palate refresher
Lynne's main course of confit duck leg with a lovely tender still pink seared breast, on a base of red cabbage, so traditional and so right and a potato puff, an a l'orange sauce and gingered carrots croquette. We had the 2005 Meifort and the 2012 Christine with the Main course. The Meifort, last year's Top red wine in the Old Mutual Trophy, is elegant on the nose, with light wood notes, and completely cassis driven. The Christine has Incense wood, richness of cherries and cassis on the nose, this year is so special, with great elegance, silky soft on the palate with cherries and red berries, some nice chalky tannins and a little warmth on the end
 The main course on the Fine Bites menu of Pan Fried Springbok Cutlet with grilled loin, a Port wine sauce leek-pommes macaire, fresh broad beans and creamy Puy lentils with a grape & apple chutney.
Dessert for four of the party was the Chocolate Variation for the serious chocoholic. A small perfect chocolate fondant, caramel ice cream in a chocolate cone, a gianduja phyllo parcel, chocolate grand piano with crocante parfait, white chocolate mousse in baumkuchen and a orange parfait in milk chocolate ring. Oh and fresh strawberries and sauce. This was served with Buitenverwachting's Noble Late Harvest 1769, the Trophy winner in 2014. Rose, mango, lime and honey on the nose and palate, made from Muscat de Frontignan in a vineyard planted in 2007. Not oversweet, (R/s 135 g/l) with good acid balance and a nice dry end. Lynne was the only one to pass on dessert but we did follow this with very good coffees in the new Coffee bar which was the old tasting room. What a marvellous meal with really great wines. Book soon

Aristea wines Launch at Welgemeend

An Adventure with Friends
Matthew Krone has been beavering away for the last few years making his own wines. We were invited with other members of the media and the wine industry, to the launch to taste two of them and to meet his partners in this venture called Aristea at Welgemeend Manor House in Gardens, Cape Town
The partners are Martin Krajewski (wine industry legend from the UK, who also owns vineyards in St Emilion and Pomerol) and Florent Dumeau (renowned Bordeaux winemaker and wine consultant). He told us that they are 'three wine friends' from the UK, France and South Africa, who each already have their own wine brands / wine ventures and many years of accumulated winemaking experience. When he discovered that both partners were going to be in South Africa at the same time, he decided that this was the perfect time to launch two of the wines here. To learn more about the partners and the wines visit https://www.aristeawines.com/
Welgemeend, whose name means well intentioned, is one of the few surviving historic farmhouses in the Gardens area of central Cape Town. It was built on four morgen of land which were granted by the VOC to Andries de Man in 1693 to farm on. It now houses the Boerneef Collection of South African art. A Pierneef exhibition will be held there in the coming months. It is a lovely traditional house with good grounds, now also used as a functions venue
Staff waiting to pour us some Alexandra MCC, one of Matthew’s own wines
These are the wines we were there to taste.
Matthew’s brother, event organiser Luke Krone, arranged the function. Here he is with Winnie Bowman, Cape Wine Master
Matthew with Maryna Calow of Wines of South Africa
The current exhibition is 'Abstraction - South African art from the 50's to the 70's' and is on every wall. The main Boerneef Collection is considered to be one of the most comprehensive and best representative collection of early South African Art
We gathered on the terrace
Matthew about to give his speech
He introduced partners Martin Krajewski (R) and Florent Dumeau (L)
Martin spoke very amusingly about how the wine came about. He wanted to make excellent wine in South Africa and so did Florent; they knew Matthew and how good a winemaker he was. They wanted to make the finest wines possible from Cape grapes, wines that show their long years of combined experience in the wine industry. So far they have released a Chardonnay and a Cabernet Sauvignon. Both are produced using the highest quality fruit from leading growers in Stellenbosch.
It was a very muggy evening and then, suddenly, the wind whipped up, thunder rumbled and this amazing storm swept across the city, rather like a sandstorm does. We all fled inside and it began to rain
These are the bottles. The Cabernet also comes in a magnum. Time to taste and we must say we were very impressed. They will make about 5000 bottles of each wine a year
First the Chardonnay. It is very Burgundian in style, with a little African sun added. Light wood is present but will soften; a subtle nose with a little stone fruit. The wine has a lovely silky mouth feel and flavours of limes, white peaches, butter and toast with a touch of marmalade on the finish. So good to drink
The Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 has a tight incense wood nose, rather French in style, perfumed with violets, cassis and mulberries. Also soft and silky, rounded with a dash of spice, dark cherries, blackberries, some warmth and then dark salty liquorice. Drinking beautifully now, with good aging potential
The labels are designed by botanical watercolourist Vicky Thomas. The blue spike of flowers on the labels is the Aristea - a flower that blooms in the Cape and Madagascar only after fine and devastation and for just one day. She is in the centre of the picture in the floral dress
Chef for the evening was a friend of Matthew’s from Johannesburg, Johan Waal. He served us vegetarian samosas and small squares of rich chocolate marquise,
there were also good oysters

Thursday, November 02, 2017

This Week’s MENU. SASSI Awards, new Windmeul market, Jardine lunch, Vondeling, Perdeberg, Durbanville Sauvignon, Leeu Manor lunch, Mozzarella and Red Peppers, Vondeling Babiana

Fishing from the breakwater, Kalk Bay
Summer is here. Suddenly, the air is warm, shorts and slipslops are everywhere and the fan is running on our bedroom’s ceiling. It has also brought the dreaded whine of the mosquitoes, who have wonderful breeding ponds in all the buckets everyone puts out to catch every possible droplet of rain. Slap on the repellent and open a bottle of chilled white wine like this week’s Wine of the Week. We produce wonderful Chenins, Chardonnays and Sauvignons in this country, as well as new (to most of us) varietals like Grenache blanc, Marsanne and Roussanne. We’ve been to some great places and tasted some of these wines in the past week. Read about them here
We decided to repeat our visit of last year when we saw Faber was on the Restaurant Week list and did not regret it. Chef Eric Bulpitt was not there as he was taking part in a four chef event in Franschhoek but his wife, Celeste, was in charge and his chefs are well trained, so we had a very good meal indeed....
Do you make sure that you always order and buy sustainable fish and seafood? If you want to know which fish it is, just download the App from the World Wildlife Fund SASSI Website http://wwfsassi.co.za/ and read about how important this is to us and our ocean resources. This week we were invited to Harbour House to see who got this year's SASSI Trailblazer awards. Chilling on the top deck of Harbour House.....
We were invited to the media launch of this new marketplace at Windmeul and they very kindly organised transport for us from the V&A Waterfront. Sadly, it was on a really harsh wintery day and we had to take shelter in the MyCiti bus station while we waited for the driver to arrive. 
A really wet day in Cape Town and how can we complain....
To say we have been meaning to visit this restaurant for months is no lie; when we saw it was on Restaurant week we felt there was no excuse not to book and plan well ahead. We think George is one of the best chefs in South Africa and he never disappoints us. His sauces are legendary and we never allow any to go back to the kitchen. A warm welcome from his wife Louise .....
Season of Sauvignon in Durbanville    Sunday saw us summoned to be at Diemersdal by 9.30am for the media briefing of the Season of Sauvignon, which actually had begun the previous day, Saturday. We managed it even after a rather hectic week and saw the tents and marquees with the food trucks setting up. The festival was different this year in that your Computicket pass was for just one farm, which you had to choose. If you wanted to move to another farm you would have to buy another ticket. This was your chance to experience one farm in depth. As media, we were given special passes which enabled us to move from farm to farm so we could see what was happening.....
An enjoyable wine filled Saturday. We were invited to last Saturday’s Perdeberg Festival and then to Vondeling for their annual 3 hour wine sale, so we decided to combine these as they are just a few kilometres apart. We set off at 10am on a really lovely day.....
Monday this week saw us transported to lunch in the Dining Room at the Leeu Collection Manor House in Franschhoek to try out the new menu. A welcome glass of The Leeu Collection’s Bas MCC...
Summer is coming and we are always on the lookout for interesting salads or antipasti after all this rich food in the media season and winter. Lynne was searching through her old River Cafe books which are a mine of inspiration and found this which just speaks of ripe summer and freshness
2 balls of fresh buffalo mozzarella - 2 large red peppers - 150g ripe cherry tomatoes - 4 Tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil - 4 plum tomatoes - 1 Tablespoon red wine or raspberry vinegar - 4 Tablespoons fresh basil leaves
Set the oven at 200C. Toss the cherry tomatoes with 1 T of olive oil; season and roast in the oven for 15 minutes, then set aside. Put the whole peppers under the grill, turning regularly until the skins are black. If you have gas burners, you can do this on an open flame using tongs. Put them immediately into a plastic bag and seal, then allow them to cool. Remove them, rub off the black skin, remove the cores and the seeds and tear them into quarters. Slice the mozzarella. Quarter the plum tomatoes. Mix together the vinegar and remaining olive oil, season and pour over the tomatoes and pepper. Add the roasted cherry tomatoes and the basil. Top with the mozzarella. Season and serve. You could serve this on a bed of rocket and accompany with a plate of Parma ham, or Bressaola, or beef Carpaccio. If not Banting, then a crisp ciabatta might be necessary to soak up all the lovely juices. And a bottle of our wine of the week
This has a complex nose of cooked apple and melon with some floral fynbos notes. Rounded and rich Chenin, Chardonnay, Grenache and Viognier blend, more cooked apple, ripe pear with some good wood butteriness, and good acid balance, ending with a little smoke.  Such a great food wine, and robust enough to stand up to meat dishes and spicy food. It was awarded 5 stars in Platter

In next week’s MENU: Aristea wines launch, Lunch at Buitenverwachting, Platter launch, Lunch at Bellevue, Ocean Basket Mediterranean
2nd November 2017


© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017
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What is on the MENU this week Mozzarella and Red Peppers

Summer is coming and we are always on the lookout for interesting salads or antipasti after all this rich food in the media season and winter. Lynne was searching through her old River Cafe books which are a mine of inspiration and found this which just speaks of ripe summer and freshness
2 balls of fresh buffalo mozzarella - 2 large red peppers - 150g ripe cherry tomatoes - 4 Tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil - 4 plum tomatoes - 1 Tablespoon red wine or raspberry vinegar - 4 Tablespoons fresh basil leaves

Set the oven at 200⁰C. Toss the cherry tomatoes with 1 T of olive oil; season and roast in the oven for 15 minutes, then set aside. Put the whole peppers under the grill, turning regularly until the skins are black. If you have gas burners, you can do this on an open flame using tongs. Put them immediately into a plastic bag and seal, then allow them to cool. Remove them, rub off the black skin, remove the cores and the seeds and tear them into quarters. Slice the mozzarella. Quarter the plum tomatoes. Mix together the vinegar and remaining olive oil, season and pour over the tomatoes and pepper. Add the roasted cherry tomatoes and the basil. Top with the mozzarella. Season and serve. You could serve this on a bed of rocket and accompany with a plate of Parma ham, or Bressaola, or beef Carpaccio. If not Banting, then a crisp ciabatta might be necessary to soak up all the lovely juices. And a bottle of our wine of the week

MENU’s Wine of the Week. Vondeling Babiana 2014

This has a complex nose of cooked apple and melon with some floral fynbos notes

Rounded and rich Chenin, Chardonnay, Grenache and Viognier blend, more cooked apple, ripe pear with some good wood butteriness, and good acid balance, ending with a little smoke.  Such a great food wine, and robust enough to stand up to meat dishes and spicy food. It was awarded 5 stars in Platter

New menu at The Dining Room, Leeu Estates manor house

Monday this week saw us transported to lunch in the Dining Room at the Leeu Collection Manor House to try out the new menu
A welcome glass of The Leeu Collection’s Bas MCC on the nicely shaded glass conservatory extension to The Dining Room. What a lovely place for guests to have breakfast
Lynne chatting to Chef Oliver Cattermole
Smiling staff
Linda Potgieter, their social media consultant and Mbachi Kamnendo, PR, Brand and Marketing Co-ordinator for the Leeu Collection
Lots of leeus!
The menu
Canapés were served at the table. These are small crumbed and deep fried croquettes of smoked beef 'potjie'. Rather chewy, the centres tasted of beef biltong. The bed of straw was actually rather nice, crisp shreds of leek.
Entitled Whipped (were they naughty?) Stellenbosch cheddar gougères, these cakes were light and flavourful and were topped with raw red onion. Next to them is the third canapé, cheese coated Courgette 'chips' with a tomato dip
Sharing the canapés were Liesl Saayman and Siegfried Schäfer of The Franschhoek Tatler
A selection of freshly baked bread was served with three flavoured spreads: Wine butter we liked, rich and paté-like aubergine Baba Ganoush and rather heavily smoked butter
One of the three starters, acid cured yellowtail and vegetable escabeche in a fynbos vinaigrette and a dot or two of a light curry sauce. The yellowtail has to be very fresh, and it was
Something from many South African's teenage years. Summer watermelon marinated in Geometric gin, served with crisp streaky bacon, and a feta cream. The gin does rather take away all the flavour from the melon and make it very crisp and alcoholic
The vegetarian option was a slice of butter nut squash served with buffalo mozzarella crumbed deep fried balls, on seeds and quinoa with tomatoes
PRO Nicolette Waterford with Chef Oliver Cattermole who explained the menu to us. The Dining Room is open to casual visitors who book. The menu will be similar to this
Mr Singh with Chef Ollie
There were also three choices for the Main course. This was the Roasted white fish (kingklip) with gnocchi, garden vegetables and a velouté sauce
And the Karoo Lamb Skilpadjie - a traditional South African dish, usually made of lamb offal like minced heart, kidneys and liver and wrapped in caul fat
The lamb chop had been dissected and stuffed with a smooth gelatinous offal mousse. Served on mash with peas and broad beans with a rich jus. For us it is perhaps something you need to be culturally familiar with, and we do like offal . The caul fat needs to be completely cooked away
Slap Chips the way many South Africans like them dusted with cheese. We much prefer them crisp
Two desserts were offered. This was a light as air, sharp passion fruit soufflé, served with a white chocolate ice cream
A warm Valrhona chocolate fondant with a suitably crisp outer and gooey middle, with a rum and raisin ice cream and coco nibs