Thursday, April 11, 2019

Jacaranda in Wellington, South Africa's smallest registered wine estate

While we were in Wellington, we were directed by Rene Reece, the Wellington Wine Route Liaison & PR, who asked if we would like to visit the smallest registered Wine Estate in South Africa. With only 4.5 hectares, of which only 3.2 are under vines, Jacaranda Farm is producing some interesting and beautiful wines. The farm is a riot of purple when the 90 year old Jacaranda trees are in bloom. They are open 10 to 4 Monday to Saturday, closed on Sunday. http://www.jacarandawines.co.za/en/
We were warmly welcomed by the owners Rene and Birgit Reiser who were both born and raised in wine growing areas of Switzerland and Germany. They bought the farm in 2009 after starting a wine export business to China, where they lived previously. They also did extensive renovations to the property and now have guest cottages on the farm, which you can book. Their big asset is the vineyard of 40 year old bush vine Chenin Blanc. They have also planted Shiraz, Mourvedre, Viognier and Chenin Blanc
We sat on the terrace and tasted through the wines. First came their 2016 MCC Blanc de Blanc, made from the aged Chenin Blanc vines. Golden in colour and in flavour, with herbal notes, it is clean and crisp with peach and honey on the end. It spends 25 months in bottle and has a dosage added. Their first vintage was 2013. They grow organically but are not yet certified, still awaiting confirmation
The farm has five cats, most of whom made our acquaintance, if from a distance
Next came the 2018 Sauvignon Blanc, . Wellington is a very warm area for Sauvignons, often producing quite tropical flavours. No acid is added to the wine and all are low sulphur. This has perfume and herbal hints on the nose, a round mouth feel from 9 months on the lees (unwooded); it is rich and tropical with guava, apricots, has nice length and good natural acidity. A food wine. Rene does whole bunch pressing and natural fermentation. Besides wine, they grow olives, guavas and pomegranates
The 2017 Chenin Blanc is crisp and full of minerality and not the usual tropical Wellington Chenin. Natural fermentation (as with all their wines), gives firm fruit acidity and good balance
The friendly ginger
Rene showing us his new range of labels, which we like very much
Incognito 2016 has one. It’s a blend of 51% Viognier and 49% Chenin and has peaches and Chanel perfume on the nose. On the palate, good fruit acidity to balance its richness, good peach and nectarine flavours; the wine is complex and very enjoyable
Admiring the new press in the wine cellar
They use 300 and 500 litre barrels
The perfect picture of contentment
The Jacaranda 2016 'Salt', an old vine Chenin Blanc, has vanilla honey richness on the nose from the touch of botrytis on the vines, a lovely crisp entry then vanilla oak, apple and quince fruit, with warmth, complexity, minerality and more of that honey on the end. Rene told us that Tim Atkin scored it 90 points last time and has just retasted and said that it deserves more. We agree
The Early Bird Mourvedre Rosé is a coppery golden pink and has come from a whole bunch press, fermented in wood. Vanilla and red fruit on the nose, with classic Mourvedre flavours of soft fruit, umami, and a little spice; it is crisp, very refreshing with vanilla on the end. Sushi and tuna tataki might be excellent with this wine. He sells a lot to the Japanese and Swiss markets
A great new label for the Silver Lining Sauvignon Blanc
Beautiful bright Bougainvillea
The Cuvée Rouge wowed us. It's a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Petite Verdot and 28% Merlot. Dark garnet in colour, with incense wood, rich red berries and, of course, violets from the Petite Verdot. Lovely juicy fruit - raspberries, mulberries and the violets are on the palate too. Gentle licorice wood from the 9 months in oak with some warmth and some nice chewy tannins on the end. A wine you just want to keep on drinking with or without food. We would pair this with meat dishes and rich sauces. It is our Wine of the Week
We are all growing succulents; this is a novel way to do it
And then the 2017 Rebel. Shiraz co-fermented with 15% Viognier. Incense wood, coffee chocolate mocha, violets and black cherry on the nose. Freshness on the palate initially, juicy berry fruit, elderberry complexity with chalky tannins on the end. Tim Atkin 90 points
Which one? She poses so well, it just sells the wine
Jacaranda Shiraz No 47. They have planted 4 different clones of Shiraz, "just to see how they age", says Rene. Spicy with white pepper, cumin and cinnamon, smoky oak, a quite complex nose with Rumtopf berry fruit and some chocolate. On the palate, soft elderberry, black cherry sweet fruit, then good fruit acid balancing the sweetness; complexity, wood in the background, and a hint of violet macarons. A definite food wine. Will age well and last. Tim Atkin gave it 91 points
The Estate Reserve is a blend of 60% Cabernet and 40% Merlot. This is a classic Bordeaux blend, extremely sophisticated and with the 'right' notes of wood and fruit in perfect balance. The warm alcohol is all that indicates it is not French. Red and black cherries, elderberries and black plums, with some grippy tannins to follow. Will age well, but drinking very well now if you can’t wait
The wine list. We succumbed and bought some. We are so pleased we made this discovery of these wines and these very nice people who are, like us, passionate about what they do in the wine world

MENU's Wine of the Week. Jacaranda Cuvée Rouge

This wine wowed us when we visited last weekend. Jacaranda is the smallest registered Wine Estate in South Africa

It's a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Petit Verdot and 28% Merlot. Dark garnet in colour, with incense wood, rich red berries and of course violets from the Petit Verdot. Lovely juicy fruit - raspberries, mulberries and the violets are on the palate too. Gentle licorice wood from the 9 months in oak with some warmth and some nice chewy tannins on the end. A wine you just want to keep on drinking with or without food and with friends. We would pair this with meat dishes and rich sauces. R115 from the farm

Friday, April 05, 2019

This Week’s MENU. Kimberley Hotel breakfast, Creation Harvest menu, Hemel en Aarde morning, Seven Springs tasting, The Onion Shack, Baked quinces, Creation Cape Vintage

The Babilonstoren Mountain appearing through the clearing mist as a pair of herons flies up the Hemel en Aarde valley


Most of this week’s MENU is about one of our all-time favourite places. Lynne surprised John yesterday by saying that she could consider buying a property there. The Hemel en Aarde (Heaven and Earth) Valley, about halfway between Hermanus and Caledon, is one of the most beautiful places we know and is great terroir for wine growing, especially cooler climate varietals like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. So we hope you’ll like our stories about the place, its wines, its food and its people. Tomorrow we’ll be off to a much warmer area, also one we like a lot, Wellington, but that will be a story for next week…


Friends in the media had told us that this old Victorian Hotel in Buitenkant Street did a mean breakfast, so we decided to try it. It is no longer one of those old Commercial Travellers’ hotels, but has turned into a successful Back Packers Hotel. So the breakfasts are taken in a downstairs area open to the street; it looks just like a separate restaurant. It’s called The Kitchen. We got there at 9.30 and there was only one person there. That soon changed…

A morning walk in the Hemel en Aarde
After a quiet night in our friends’ cottage in the Hemel en Aarde Valley, John woke up quite early the next morning, with Lynne enjoying a little "lie-in. He took advantage of a crisp autumn morning to take a little walk in this very attractive part of the Valley…

We love what we do and we love the people who help us to do what we do. John mentioned that it has been a bit quiet in the wine and food world and immediately we got some great invitations. The first was from Carolyn Martin at Creation wines to come and enjoy their Harvest Lunch. And a friend saw the invitation and offered their cottage for an overnight stay. So off we went to the beautiful Hemel and Aarde valley again on a sunny but slightly chilly day. We seem to have an early Autumn…

Tasting the wines at Seven Springs
Seven Springs winery, up at the top of the valley on the way to Caledon from the Hemel and Aarde has been inviting us to come for a long time and it was on our way as we headed home this week. They now have their own cellar and have done their first harvest in it and opened a tasting room. We received a warm welcome from Augustus Dale who has taken over from winemaker Riana van der Merwe, who has followed her heart to Australia. Gus, who is also a viticulturist, has had many years experience as a wine merchant in London and, after studying Viticulture and Oenology in Beaune has worked in Burgundy, in St Emilion, and Bordeaux. He was one of the first to convert a French property in the region to an Organic culture. He is, like us, convinced that it is the future in wine…
Seven Springs Winery is home to a restaurant on site which has been open since December. It is called The Onion Shed and that is what it has been converted from. The chef/owner is Lois Braun and her boyfriend is the farmer who runs the organic pig farm. She is a trained pastry chef and is very proud that this is her own restaurant. And her first….
On the MENU this week. Baked Toffee Quinces
Quinces are in season and so often we find them rotting under trees as not many seem to know what to do with these beautiful fruits. They do need to be cooked. (There are masochists who like to eat them raw with salt, but we won’t go there.) The flesh is relatively hard and they are not a picnic to peel, but persevere, it is worth it. You can just stew them gently in some water and sugar till soft, adding some cinnamon or fresh ginger, but the following recipe is one of our favourites and the hard work will pay such dividends. See the Recipe…

This is a Port style wine made from Shiraz. We liked and enjoyed this so much when we were served it with dessert recently at Creation doing a pairing lunch, that we have made it our Wine of the Week. It is better than many of the young ports we taste in Portugal last year which lacked depth and complexity. This has concentration of flavour, sweetness and spice balanced with rich plums, black cherry and vanilla, good fruit acids, richness, and warmth from the KWV brandy added. It will age beautifully but is really drinking so well now. More…








5th April 2019








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Thursday, April 04, 2019

MENU’s Wine of the Week. Creation Fine Cape Vintage 2017


This is a Port style wine made from Shiraz. We liked and enjoyed this so much when we were served it with dessert recently at Creation doing a pairing lunch, that we have made it our Wine of the Week. It is better than many of the young ports we taste in Portugal last year which lacked depth and complexity. This has concentration of flavour, sweetness and spice balanced with rich plums, black cherry and vanilla, good fruit acids, richness, and warmth from the KWV brandy added. It will age beautifully but is really drinking so well now.

Grown in 450-million-year-old clay derived Bokkeveld shale soils on the highest slopes of the estate. Only virus-free, lower yielding clones were chosen and planted at an altitude of some 290 m above sea level

The perfect match for rich chocolate and dark berry desserts. Limited bottling, R340 per bottle, presented in a black velvet bag, making it the perfect present for the port lover in your family

Baked Toffee Quinces

Quinces are in season and so often we find them rotting under trees as not many seem to know what to do with these beautiful fruits. They do need to be cooked. (There are masochists who like to eat them raw with salt, but we won’t go there.) The flesh is relatively hard and they are not a picnic to peel, but persevere, it is worth it. You can just stew them gently in some water and sugar till soft, adding some cinnamon, star anise or fresh ginger, but the following recipe is one of our favourites and the hard work will pay such dividends


5 quinces – a litre of water – 1 kg caster sugar –double thick or clotted cream, to serve

First peel one quince. Cut it up into 5 cm pieces.  Make the syrup by adding the sugar to the water in a large wide saucepan on heat, and add the quince pieces. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon to dissolve the sugar and bring to a boil.  Let this boil until you have a thick viscous syrup – it can take an hour and you must watch it so that it doesn’t catch and burn. Strain off the quince pieces. They are edible

Heat your oven to 200°C. Peel and halve the remaining four quinces. You do not have to remove the pips. In a roasting tin, put the quinces cut face down and pour over the syrup. It needs to be about 1 cm in depth. Roast in the oven for an hour, then baste the quinces and turn the oven down to 160°C. Continue cooking for 2 to 3 hours, basting regularly with the syrup. Add more of the stock syrup if it starts to go dry. Turn the quinces as you baste them so that they take on the caramel colour on all sides. When they are ready and a good dark burgundy red colour, remove from the oven and put one into each dessert dish, with a bit of the sticky syrup. You serve these with a dollop or two of double thick cream. It is a very rich and sweet, so you only need one per person. The quince will be tender beneath the caramel and quite delicious

Tasting the wines at Seven Springs, Hemel en Aarde

Seven Springs winery, up at the top of the valley, on the way to Caledon from the Hemel and Aarde has been inviting us to come for a long time and it was on our way as we headed home this week. They now have their own cellar and have done their first harvest in it and opened a tasting room. We received a warm welcome from Augustus Dale who has taken over from winemaker Riana van der Merwe, who has followed her heart to Australia. Gus, who is also a viticulturist, has had many years experience as a wine merchant in London and, after studying Viticulture and Oenology in Beaune, has worked in Burgundy, in St Emilion and in Bordeaux. He was one of the first to convert a French property in the region to an Organic culture. He is, like us, convinced that it is the future in wine
The small tasting room
We sat outside on the terrace as it was a lovely warm day
We were going to taste their current wines first and then do a barrel and tank tasting in the cellar with the new harvest’s wines that Gus has made. They do hold back their wines, so you taste older vintages. We tried their golden olive oil first, made from Frantoia olives, full and round, bitter on the end. The new vintage of oil is just being bottled. It is quite unusual to find a farm that holds back its wines and releases them when they are ready to drink; they have done the cellaring for you. The wines we tasted are the current vintages that are available

We began with the 2014 Sauvignon Blanc. Green herbal notes on the golden nose, showing some age, lovely fruit on the soft palate of lime and granadilla, some complexity with lees on the end. R100
The Unoaked 2014 Chardonnay has almost Riesling notes with some orange zest on the nose. Clean on the palate, with limes and lemons. The 2015 is classic Chardonnay on the nose, peaches and cream and citrus. A rounded palate with long flavours of citrus and lime, good acid balance and minerality. R110
This area of the farm is very neat with great plantings!
The 2015 Oaked Chardonnay (R230) is clear with glints of pale gold. Bready on the nose with golden fruit and some smoke. Very satisfying on the palate with lime and peach notes; wood supports but doesn’t overtake. Lots of length with lemon, lime and peach fruit. A feminine Chardonnay with a nice hint of salt on the end palate
The Rosé, made from Syrah grapes (R100), is a pretty, coppery colour, and has nutty sesame notes which follow through on the palate. It has the weight of a full blown shiraz, good berry fruit, freshness and it slips down very easily. Definitely a food wine, reminiscent of southern French Rosés
The 2014 Pinot Noir (R155) has Roses, raspberries and red cherries on the nose with some forest floor. Very pretty. Clean, good cherry/berry fruit; it is ageing well and has nice warmth with that hint of salt on the end. To us, this identifies clearly as a Hemel and Aarde style Pinot; even though they are next to Domaine des Dieux, they are just outside the ward. Definitely worth its 4 stars in Platter and one to buy
The 2014 Syrah is shy at first with rich red, blackberry and black cherry fruit on the nose. On the palate, it is soft and sweet cherry jam with firm tannins and then intensely fruity, with length and minerality and that characteristic hint of salt on the end. Delicious, a definite food wine
Renico Botes, Seven Springs’ Senior Cellar Assistant assisting a Scottish customer in the tasting room
Into the new cellar we go!... Tasting wines which are developing and still fermenting is such a great experience. They never taste as they will when ready for bottling, but you can see, smell and taste the building blocks. You need to ignore the fermentation products like yeast and off flavours; they are natural and will adjust in the tanks and barrels. And you do have to remember never to swallow the yeasty wine; it can bloat you and give you gas for several days!
We were invited to taste the new vintage wines, first from the tank. This was the 2019 unoaked Chardonnay, still lots of yeast, lees and good fruit, with pear notes, and a good balance of sugar and acid
We tasted the 2019 Sauvignon Blanc which has been racked and is on gross lees. Yeast and peas and elderflower on the nose and palate at the moment point to something good. The 2019 oaked Chardonnay has been naturally fermented and was singing in the barrels! Yeasty, lees, bready, with white plum, limes, lemon and white peach flavours and soft sweet fermenting fruit. A typical Chardonnay
Some concrete eggs busy fermenting Chenin blanc; they owned by and stored for another winemaker
We tasted the Rosé from the tank. It is a little agricultural at the moment with lots of yeastiness, but beneath is the raspberry and, on the palate, it’s a silky Cherryade! Can’t wait to taste this when it has finished fermenting

Then some reds from the barrel. The 2019 free run Pinot Noir has smoky oak from the barrel, and lots of strawberry and raspberry flavours with a hint of salty liquorice. Another barrel (4th fill) had less oak, more lees, coffee on the nose with mulberry and hints of the wind and sea. Quite sophisticated already, lovely palate of cherry/berry, this is really impressive. Lynne is convinced that it will win future awards. Then we tasted the pressed juice. As Gus says, this is the backbone wine; the wine to add the tannins, minerality and depth and help to make the wine last a long time
The 2019 Shiraz will also be a blend of free run and pressed grapes. Smoked pork or gammon on the new oak barrel, hints of penicillin tablets, rich ripe and smoky, mulberries and cherry. The Press was richer on the nose with yeast aromas, some fruit acidity, cleaner, fresher, chalky and dusty. The 3rd barrel was 5th fill with free run juice, as Gus says, the flesh of the wine. Blackberries, cassis and white pepper on the nose; intense cassis on the palate, a classic in development
This was another great lesson for us in winemaking and its results. We are so grateful to Gus for all the time he spent with us. As the Irish say, very good Crack too! Looks like you have some great wines coming from this vintage, which was smaller in quantity, but produced good quality grapes, as most of the area have experienced

The Onion Shed - farm lunch in the Hemel en Aarde

Seven Springs Winery has a restaurant on site which has been open since December. It is called The Onion Shed and that is what it has been converted from. The chef /owner is Lois Braun and her boyfriend is the farmer who runs the organic pig farm. She is a trained pastry chef and is very proud that this is her own restaurant. And her first
The Onion Shack doesn't do parallel lines. They have some fresh produce - Lynne bought a kilo of good onions for R8, but you can buy the whole trusses on the pillars. They have lots of other items like bags, olive oil and preserves and even some beautifully upholstered ottomans. We saw one bought while we were there
The fresh produce racks, with biscuits and other treats
The menu is on the wall chalk board. Had we known about this we would have had breakfast here before our wine tasting at Seven Springs. Do go and try it if you are in the Hemel and Aarde area, it is on the way to Caledon. The platters look interesting. And customers who were leaving recommended the meat pies to us. Sadly they had sold out by 2 when we sat down to eat
And the brews on the counter with the cakes. They do not have a licence, so were happy for us to drink our own wine
You can buy some from Seven Springs tasting room and drink it here
We all had the same thing, the Brie BLT - Bacon Lettuce and Tomato with added Brie
The rolls were hot and fresh. It was very satisfying
After we'd tasted the excellent Seven Springs wines, we asked Gus Dale to join us for lunch
and suggested a cold wine we had in the car, a bottle of Org de Rac Roussanne and it went well with the generous rolls
The friendly farm cat who is 19 years old but looks much younger until you see her walk
It is a very happy place for young pigs who can roam around the dam and through the open fields
Soon they will have pork to sell
 Happy free range pigs, just 3 months old
As happy as a pig in...
...a river. Oh joy. A short life but a happy one