.: 01/23/20

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MENU's Wine of the Week. Grande Provence Merlot 2018

Tank fermented and then matured in barrel for 12 months. A splash of Malbec has been added and is just visible as umami. Good incense smoky wood, then lovely full rich, ripe cherries shine through on the nose. Silky soft on the palate with minerality, a cherry feast of all the different cherry varietals and their flavours. It is rich with long fruit flavours, a hint of umami licorice and dark chocolate on the end. It will age beautifully. We predict that this will win awards; one of the best South African Merlots we have tasted this year.

R170 on the farm. 18.5/20 but might well add another half or whole point with a few years cellaring

All content © John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus

On the MENU this Week. Beef en Croute for Two

Ingredients

1 x 400 g fillet of beef – salt and freshly ground black pepper – 1 T olive oil – a tub of good chicken liver pâté – puff pastry in a sheet large enough to cover the fillet – 1 whipped egg yolk to use as egg wash

Pancakes:

1 cup all-purpose flour - 2 eggs - ½ cup milk - ½ cup water - ¼ teaspoon salt - 2 tablespoons butter, melted – oil to fry in

Stir the eggs into the flour and slowly beat the milk and water, avoiding lumps to get a smooth batter; finally add the salt to the melted butter. Fry in a large flat frying pan to get large crêpes

Season the fillet well all over and then, in a hot pan, fry in the olive oil until browned on all sides. Wrap in cling film tightly to keep the shape regular and refrigerate.

Make one large thin pancake, large enough to wrap the entire fillet. (You can use the rest of the mix to make more for yourself to eat with sugar, cinnamon and lemon).

Remove the cling film from the fillet and cover it with a layer of pâté. Then wrap it carefully in the pancake, sticking it down with pâté. Make as neat a parcel as you can, trimming off any excess. Make sure the pâté is completely covered and will not leak out. Refrigerate, wrapped in cling film.

Defrost the pastry if using frozen and it is bought (no shame in that!). Roll it out till it is large enough to completely cover the fillet on all sides, with a turnover on the bottom. Remove the cling film and cover the fillet with the pastry, making a neat parcel, and be sure to seal the overlapping ends with egg wash. Turn your oven on to 220°C.

Egg wash the pastry all over, lightly score a pattern on the outside (do not cut through the pastry) and then place in the fridge for 10 minutes. Place it on baking paper on a baking tray and put into the oven for 20 minutes for medium rare. Use a meat thermometer or thermal probe to ensure that the internal temperature has reached 52°C. Stick the probe through the top as escaping meat juices might spoil the crisp pastry if you go through the sides. When it has reached 52°C, (and as ovens are different, it might take a little longer) remove from the oven and rest for 10 minutes before serving. A good meaty jus or a Madeira sauce is perfect with this. We had it with creamy mashed potatoes and steamed tenderstem broccoli. And it went so well with a beautiful Rudera Syrah 2010. No longer available in the shops, sadly

All content © John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus

Grande Provence launches the estate's first Merlot

An invitation to the Grand Provence Merlot launch on the estate in Franschhoek gave us an insight in to the growth

and confidence of two talented young men, the winemaker Thys Smit and Head Chef Marvin Robyn

We were picked up by minibus at 8.30 and, after rather a long trip to pick up other members of the media from various addresses in the city and suburbs, arrived at the farm at 10.45. Thankfully, it was great weather, nice and cool. Rain had been promised, but it didn't look likely, so Lynne took a raincoat and a sun hat. As we were early, it gave us a chance to have a look at the art gallery which has some superb paintings, sculptures and photographs. Whoever does the curating has a superb eye

Visitors were tasting wine outside. We hear that Grand Provence is proving to be a very popular wine and food destination in Franschhoek, with numbers well up. It is also a very popular wedding venue, especially for couples from the Northern Hemisphere. It is on the route of the Franschhoek Tram. And they have a bistro as well as the fine dining restaurant

The garden is always filled with monumental sculptures

Our tasting and lunch were to be in the Jonkershuis, shown here

The trees are home to many cheeky squirrels!

We gathered first at the Oyster bar in the garden

where oysters were on offer for the media

and some of their good Rosé Brut MCC, which has crisp flavours of strawberry and raspberry

And chatted to winemaker Thys Smit. He told us that their Harvest would begin the next day and that,

while it has been a good long, slow season, the recent rain and extreme heat have changed things a little

Luckily, he kept the canopy on the grape vines full until a week ago, when he exposed the grapes to some sun to get ripeness

Broadcaster Guy MacDonald, who is the Breakfast show presenter on Magic 828 Music Radio,

explaining something to Maryna Calow of WOSA

We took our seats at the long table for the wine tasting

The wines were introduced by the winemaker Thys Smit. Thys was one of the five nominees for Young Winemaker of the Year in 2019. He has been with Grande Province since 2015, when he joined as assistant wine maker. In July 2018, he was promoted to Grande Provence Winemaker and Farm Manager. As a BSc graduate in molecular biology and biotechnology at the University of Stellenbosch, Thys began his winemaking career completely by accident. He worked three vintages at Lourensford Estate, and enrolled in a training program in the USA, where he worked at Roth Estate, focusing on Chardonnay and Bordeaux-style blends. We have watched his confidence grow and his wines become so special over the last few years

Definitely a winemaker to watch

Here he and Marna Viljoen, Grande Provence Hospitality Manager, begin pouring the wines

We were to taste through some of the current range of wines

We began with the Grand Province 2018 Chenin Blanc. Dusty on the nose, with perfume, fig and apricot notes. On the palate, lees notes, minerality, granadilla, pear and some white peach. It is crisp, complex and layered. It has spent 9 to 10 months in tank, stirred regularly. Thys told us that a tiny splash of Viognier and Verdelho was added which gave additional complexity to the wine. Grapes from Stellenbosch & Franschhoek. The Franschhoek grapes are from a 38 year old vineyard. A bargain at R99 from the farm. 17/20

The 2018 Chardonnay was next. 40% has been matured in new French Oak and there is a touch of Paarl Verdelho added. There is a whiff of oak on the nose, then buttered toast, peach and some minerality. On the palate, it is crisp and layered with smoked apple and citrus. Quite restrained, enjoyable wooding on the palate, it does open up with buttery roundness and finishes with some mineral tannin. R170 on the farm. 18/20

The Grand Provence White was much applauded and enjoyed. A wine of character and finesse, it is a blend of 60% Chenin, 30% Viognier and 10% Chardonnay. It is not often you see so much Viognier used, but it does not take over, nor is the wine blowsy at all. In fact, it is the Chardonnay from Robertson which shines through. Whole bunch pressed and aged in new and older French oak for 11 months. Pretty, perfumed notes with some peach and well integrated wood on the nose. A good texture on the palate, with lean fruit at first, which then ripens as it opens up, with limes, peaches, butter and some definite intrinsic wildness adding to the charm and delight of this complex wine. A definite food wine that will add to whatever it is paired with. R440. 19/20

The 2018 Shiraz has just been bottled and has 14.5% alcohol. The grapes are from Franschhoek. 28% was matured in new French oak for 21 months. Spicy, with wood notes, the fruit of Christmas. Soft, smooth on the palate with lovely fruit, but still a few heavy youthful tannins that need to settle, followed by chalk and plums. A 'Feast for the meat' wine with an ending of caramel toffee and spice. With some age, will be so good. R170 on the farm. 17/20

Their flagship red, the Grand Provence Red 2015 came next. A classic Bordeaux blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet and 20% Malbec, Thys uses special viticultural methods to obtain low vigour and slow ripening of the grapes. Smoky bacon on the nose, then cassis, eucalyptus 'mint', rich cherries and some spice. Initially some tomato flavour, then cassis, cherry and wood take over, ending in some chalky minerality. Can age well. R590 from the farm

And, finally, the newly released and just launched 2018 Merlot. The grapes come from the golden triangle in Stellenbosch and would usually have gone into the Grand Provence red, but they were just so good, Thys felt that they needed to be showcased alone. Tank fermented and then in barrel for 12 months. A splash of Malbec has been added and is just visible as umami. Good incense smoky wood, then lovely full rich, ripe cherries shine through on the nose. Silky soft on the palate with minerality, a cherry feast of all the different cherry varietals and their flavours. It is rich with long fruit flavours, a hint of umami licorice and dark chocolate on the end. It will age beautifully. We predict that this will win awards; one of the best South African Merlots we have tasted this year. R170 on the farm. 18.5/20

Then it was time for lunch, to be paired with these wines. Head Chef Marvin Robyn came to tell us about the food and the pairings. During his career he has worked with leading chefs in a number of top winelands restaurants including Delaire Graff, Cuvée at Simonsig, Equus at Cavalli and finally Makaron at Majeka House. Marvin has shown tremendous leadership ability at Grande Provence, despite his young age and is an enthusiastic mentor to the rest of the kitchen brigade, with endless good energy and new ideas. He describes his cooking style as refined South African classics, bringing new inspiration and modernity to local heritage food. The food he had cooked for us for this lunch will be on their new summer menu

A view of the garden through the Jonkershuis door

The menu

The starter was described as a bisque, but was more of a corn, chilli, cucumber and tomato salsa,

topped with shaved crayfish, surrounded by a thick seafood sauce and topped with micro greens

Well flavoured with good textures and refreshing for a summer dish

Paired with the Grande Provence Sauvignon Blanc from vineyards on the estate, which is crisp and was a good match

There was genuine applause for the vegetarian Intermediate course. Using a new and (we were told) rather expensive spiraliser,

Chef had presented us with shaved beetroot tagliatelle, as thin as the best transparent pasta

The beetroot shavings were on slices of creamy burrata mozzarella made in the kitchen,

topped with orange zest, dukkah spice and honeycomb (undetected, but perhaps as a flavouring?)

So tender and fresh, a really good expression of beetroot at its best and Hurray!, no vinegar was detected

A choice of main courses: this was tender fillet of beef on a cauliflower purée, mushrooms and a good meat jus

The fillet was topped with fresh asparagus

A surprise was some freshly baked, sticky mosbolletjies which we used to sop up the sauces on our plates

Mosbolletjies are a traditional sweet Cape bread made in the winelands using the 'mos' from the grapes

Mos is "must" or unfermented grape juice. Traditionally grape must left over from wine production is used as a leavening agent

and added to dough, often with aniseed. They were as light as a feather and so delicious

The alternative main was fresh Yellowtail, nicely pan seared (and substituted for unavailable sea bass)

perched upon a bed of fire roasted sweet potatoes, with a fig cream, topped with shaved smoked snoek and pickled grapes

A really interesting dish, with good contrasts of flavours and textures

This went so well with both the Chardonnay, echoing the smoke, and with the Grande Provence White blend

Dessert was also summery and light, as were all the dishes. A light and perfect vanilla panna cotta,

topped with fresh strawberries and accompanied by a strawberry sorbet and some crumbled meringue

Music on the way home! A sculpture outside the Gallery

What a good day, with good wine and food. Very relaxed. Thanks to all at Grand Provence

All content © John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus

Chenin and Pizza Party 2020 at The Grand on the Beach

Invited to the annual Chenin & Pizza Party at The Grand on the Beach, at the edge of the V&A Waterfront,

we were delighted to see that they had opened up this great tasting of South Africa's best Chenin Blancs to the public

It was on a sizzling summer Wednesday from 4 till 8 pm. Flip flops and beach wear were obligatory and essential

This event is so ably organised by Ina Smith and Jan Sleet and the team of the Chenin Blanc Association

Winemaker Roger Burton, and Shelley Sandell, owner of Tierhoek in Piekenierskloof,

were showcasing the Tierhoek Old Vine Chenin and their Straw Wine made from Chenin. A great place to start

Paul Kruger, who handles sales for Villiera

Their 2019 Barrel Fermented Chenin really impressed with its background of soft wood and clean elegance

Villiera Cellarmaster and joint owner Jeff Grier

"This too shall pass" is not a tattoo you can miss!

Amorous moments in the sun

The Spier wines always impress, The 21 Gables is one of our preferred Chenins for drinking when out at Restaurants

as it is on so many menus, full, rich and fruity, totally memorable and a great match with food

The Ideology takes Chenin to another level of sophistication and class

The Radford Dale Revelation is one indeed, having something you don't often find in Chenin, pyrazines

and they come from the Durbanville vineyard from which the grapes are harvested

We were puzzled at first but really enjoyed this stand out wine

Nicely presented

Perdeberg Vineyard Collection MCC is crisp and lively and SO good and refreshing in the heat of the day

Jeremy and Emma Borg of Painted Wolf Wines

Their Lycaon (named for the African Wild Dog//Painted Wolf, Lycaon Pictus) Old Vine Chenin

really impressed with its layers of intense fruit and elegance

A portion of profits from their wine sales goes to the conservation of African Wild Dogs and their natural habitat

Oh to be in that boat. At 5pm the heat was so intense that Lynne was tempted to throw herself into the water

Instead she threw herself onto the deck when her sandal tripped her up climbing it!

Nothing a quiet moment or 14 close to the water, in the shade, with a glass of Chenin didn’t sort out

No bruises, thank heavens. And no, she had not had too much Chenin, just too much heat for a pale skinned gal...

Photographer Gavin Withers and Zelda Furstenburg

Prosper Gundura and a friend with Richard Kershaw

Sheltering under the shade. A fan was a great idea

Shadows lengthening! It was beginning to cool down

Ken Forrester and an admirer making a selfie

Ken's Dirty Little Secret Chenin blanc was getting lots of attention, as was he. It’s a cracker

Winemag editor Christian Eedes, Ken Forrester and Andre Morgenthal of the Old Vines Project, hard at work

And then a cool breeze appeared and everyone moved closer to the sea

Morné Vrey of Delaire Graff with his incredible Swartland Reserve Chenin, which blew us away

It comes from hot country grapes, but has the elegance and restraint of something from the Loire. So well made

Morné pours a glass for Maggie Marais, who handles Delaire Graff sales

Everyone was having fun

Oh we were so sorry to have missed tasting the Mont Blois Chenin;

their two magnums had run out by the time we got to their stand

And Spice Route have come up with a rather good idea for the Bloemcool (cauliflower) Chenin

The label soaks off and is impregnated with cauliflower seeds for you to plant

Perhaps not a great idea if the cellar floods though. On second thought, no, we have a drought

Good to see Sommelier Tinashe Joseph Dafana enjoying his day off

Boys just want to have fun. Tom Mills, Prosper Gundura, Jean Vincent Ridon, Joseph Dafana

When the fairy lights were turned on, we realised it was time to head home

We didn’t, couldn’t, taste more than a third or less of the wines

but were so impressed with the scope and quality of the Chenins on show

And on the way back to the bus stop, Lynne heard a faint hoot and above us in the tree were two owls

Sadly, one had flown by the time John took this shot. What a lovely ending to a great event