You
may think we are jaded with all of the many meals we have at good restaurants.
But who cannot fail to be excited by an invitation to a restaurant that has
featured as one of the top 100 restaurants in the world for the last few years.
This was to celebrate Saronsberg's annual release of their six new season wines,
which takes place at this time of the year. This year, they decided to treat
members of the wine trade and some members of the media to lunch at La Colombe
with the wines, paired with several courses. It was a wonderful showcase for
their lovely wines. Saronsberg was rated the Red Wine Producer of the Year by
the South African Wine Index Awards 2015 and 2016
Nick van Huyssteen, owner of Saronsberg, with Manuel
Cabello, sommelier at Ellerman House, and PRO Nicolette Waterford
Journalists Lucille Botha of Landbouweekblad, Fiona
MacDonald, Christian Eedes of WineMag.co.za and Graham Howe
Saronsberg Viognier 2015 was without doubt the
most popular wine served at the event. People kept calling for more. It goes
beautifully with food. It is winemaker Dewaldt Heyns’ passion; he worked a
vintage in Condrieu and loves this grape and the elegant style, full of white
peaches and lemons with hints of smoke. It was the winner of the International
Wine Challenge (IWC) South African Viognier Trophy 2016
Saronsberg MCC Brut 100% Chardonnay with the slightly
tropical 2016 Sauvignon Blanc. It is grassy, full of melon and pineapple, clean
and crisp, with a flinty end
Winemaker Dewaldt Heyns pouring his MCC for Greg Landman of
Country Life
Mark Norrish of Ultra Liquors with journalist Maryna
Strachan
Alan Mullins and Rebecca Constable, both of
Woolworths wine department
The canapé was served in a beautiful garden. Yes,
there is food in there. Look closely, there are four. It was a pastry bark
filled with dots of rich and smooth chicken liver pate, tiny cep mushrooms,
beef tartare below, pickled onion, sherry gel and a herb emulsion (green). The
pickled onion was there only as a note of necessary acidity to fire off the
rest of the dish. Superb with the Chardonnay MCC Brut
Two old(er) gals together. Lynne with Chris von Ulmenstein
Master chef Scot Kirton in his kitchen. Eat Out
San Pellegrino Chef of the Year, and he took La Colombe to 76th place in the Top
100 Restaurants in the World - 2016
Lynne gets a hug from talented La Colombe
sommelier Joseph Dhafana. Read
about Josephs incredible journey to wine here
We thought you might like to know that La Colombe
has a Winter Special. Valid for LUNCH ONLY (Monday to Thursday) from 4 July
2016 to 31 August 2016 at R350 per person - 3 course menu http://www.lacolombe.co.za/
Dewaldt Heyns tells us about the wines they
released and his philosophy of making the best he can from the two different
sites they have on Saronsberg, cool mountain vineyards and river valley rocks
A refill of the 100% Chardonnay Brut MCC. This is
kept for 3 years on the lees and while sales for the first vintage were slow,
they now sell out every years despite upping the quantity. It has a lovely
prickle on the palate and the bottle age pays dividends
We began with some sourdough rolls accompanied by
one of the best 'butters' we have ever had. They churn their own virgin butter
and then mix it with baked bone marrow. To this chef adds some pickled fish to
add some necessary acidity. It is topped with some capers, micro herbs and a
herb emulsion and an anchovy puree. The fish acted more like anchovy might and
was there as an umami flavour with no hint of a fishy smell. A success
Chef serving the canned fish starter that has
become a trademark of La Colombe
This time it was filled with fresh seared yellowfin
tuna, avocado, shiitake mushrooms in a ponzu dressing. A good blend of
freshness, textures and good flavours to complement the good tuna
A huge West Coast oyster flavoured with Kalamansi
(a small, tart citrus fruit widely grown in the East, also known as Calamondin),
apple and soy. It was a good match for the Sauvignon Blanc that accompanied it
The next course was voted the best of many good
courses by most of the people we spoke to; we agree. Some perfectly cooked portions
of quail - breast fillet, drumstick, etc, well glazed, crisp on the outside and
succulent. Served with a huge scallop seared in miso, a creamy parsnip and corn
puree, parsnip crisps, braaied corn kernels, and bok choi . In a hay 'nest' was
a caramelised teriyaki sauce to add in small drops to the dish. Served and
perfectly matched with the Saronsberg Viognier
So soft steamed Chinese Bao (buns) folded over
slices of pork belly, dressed with kimchi, herbs and sesame. Another good
course to return for
Then a basalt bomb arrived and when the top was
removed, the air was full of smoke. We must admit to feeling a little cheated
by this course. The description reads Lamb tongue and sweetbreads. The tongue
might have been from a lark it was so small, and tongue is a favourite. Smoked
garlic and Jerusalem artichoke accompanied the one small deep fried piece of
sweetbread and the dish had quite a sharp sauce. Served with the blockbuster
Full Circle red which has flavours of liquorice, dark wood and black fruit
Then to a palate cleanser of Granny Smith apple
popsicles smoking on dry ice. Some declined, as they said it would spoil their
palates. We disagree, they were refreshing and a good pause.
Saronsberg Seismic Rooi - two previous Saronsberg
Bordeaux Blends now combined into one. It will age but is made in the young
style. The Seismic name is a nod to the Tulbagh earthquake
Three lunching girls having fun: Nicolette Waterford, Marthelize
Brink of Radio Sonder Grense and Malu Lambert
Sommelier Joseph serving the Seismic Rooi
Tender Wagyu beef fillet, rich oxtail, a sweet
langoustine tail tasting of the sea, served with peas, broad beans, Romanesco broccoli,
spinach puree and mustard with a beurre blanc sauce
Was the next course a dessert or cheese? Some of
both, titled 'Three ages of Boerenkaas' (farmers cheese). A cheese ribbon, a
puree and an ice cream with onion, rhubarb, walnut and cumin
Wines served with lunch: The spicy and fruity
Shiraz, the savoury Mourvedre and the Grenache (our wine of the week) were all
great matches for the main courses and for the cheese dessert
Petit Fours: mini muffins stuffed with a
blueberry, chocolate and coffee truffles and fudge with popping candy. These
were served with good coffee. It was an excellent meal. Thank you Saronsberg
for showcasing your wines in this way, it is really appreciated. Good wine should
be paired with good food
© John & Lynne
Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016
