Tuesday, December 04, 2018

Restaurant Week Lunch at Upper Bloem, Green Point

To Upper Bloem restaurant on Main Road Green Point, opposite the Cape Town Stadium, for lunch on Saturday. They were offering a Restaurant Week special and we wanted to return after our last visit, which was for the launch of the De Wetshof Limestone Hill Chardonnay in August
We were quite early at 12.15 so they were not busy, but it did liven up later on
There is an open kitchen where you can see Chef Andre Hill and his team preparing the food. He is the co-owner with Henry Vigar of La Mouette. If you are wondering about the name, Chef Andre grew up in Upper Bloem road in the Bo Kaap. To quote from their website: "Offering a selection of small plates comprising seasonal fare, Upper Bloem’s terroir approach extends beyond simply using local produce. It creatively refers to the uniqueness of Cape Town and draws inspiration from the port city’s mix of cultures and the influence that the confluence of people has had on local cuisine. Diners can expect to see modern techniques being applied to old favourites; a fine dining experience in a relaxed setting and a delectable journey of sharing plates reminiscent of the feeling of ‘home’"
The special Restaurant Week menu
John ordered a 450ml Striped Horse Lager from the Craft Beer list at R45
He says the beers on the list are all good
Lynne had a pichet of Protea Pinot Grigio at R50
The wine list is small and not inexpensive; there is the option of wines 'by the glass' served in a pichet
We think they need to add a dry rosé to the list, the food calls loudly for it
Chef Henri Vigar is famous for his small croquettes and these continue the delight
(they were substituted for the Cape Malay onions on the menu). Boerenkaas cheese sauce,
melting in the middle of crisp deep fried bitterballen with a spicy mayonnaise
The next plate was tiny morsels of deep fried battered hake with just pickled cucumber,
sweet potato crisps and tiny pancakes
The plating is enticing and fresh. This was an unctuous ostrich carpaccio, furled rather than flat,
generous in portion, in flavour and in texture, topped with crisp onion flakes,
with roasted ostrich mayonnaise, leaves and radish slices
Lynne’s Carpaccio came with shimeji mushrooms which added a lot to the dish,
both in flavour and in texture
A Salomi is a South African snack consisting of curry-filled roti flat bread
Chef had changed this to a battered and deep fried beetroot leaf. 
The flavour of the potato and courgette curry is so familiar to locals
and it is served with a mint yogurt raita. It was however quite small and fragile
and impossible to pick up and roll, so we used knives and forks
Very enjoyable
They very kindly brought John a substitute dish as the next dish had mushrooms in it
It was a Braised Cauliflower biriani with pistachio nuts and pomegranate aruls
Smoked Duck ham with sliced beetroot, salad leaves, onion, fresh coriander and dressing;
"Ouma's onder die Kombers" (Grandma is under the blankets) on grilled baby gem lettuce
And not a mushroom in sight?!
A conundrum. Wonderful triple cooked and divinely crisp potatoes. But then drowned
in a flavourful sauce which makes them soggy. Could this not come separately? Please
The sauce was flavoured with Muizenberg sour figs (Mesembryanthemum edule)
and was accompanied by burnt chard leaves, crème fraiche and a Bhadji crumb
Dessert was described as frozen naartjie (clementine) topped with deep fried curry leaves
They were indeed frozen quite solid and had the texture of fine polenta
They were rolled in dried and powdered naartjie skin. Interesting
Chef Andre still busy plating and preparing for service in the kitchen
We thoroughly enjoyed our meal; the different and familiar textures and flavours do delight,
captivate and sometimes puzzle, but it is an adventure that we recommend
From the menu
Our bill for lunch

Hillcrest Estate New Release Launch

Thursday evening saw us at Hillcrest wine estate in Durbanville for the launch of the new vintages of their Saartjie wines. They are named after GM, winemaker and viticulturist Arno Smith’s cute Jack Russell terrier and she has made it onto the labels. They have built a lovely new deck and they also have a Beer garden
They had laid a table with six different varieties of their excellent olives (we know they are excellent, we have bought 3 litre buckets of them for several years), homemade farm bread, olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Just a snack before supper they said. There were also slices of Pizza bianco
We were served the 2018 Hillcrest Rosé, made from Cabernet Sauvignon
It is a summer wine; light, fresh and fruity
The four wines being released were the 2018 Semillon, the 2017 Malbec, 2017 Cabernet Franc
and the 2017 Petit Verdot, all of which we would taste at dinner, paired with different courses
Some of those plumptious olives. We particularly liked the lemon olives
- a version we had not tasted before
And there were some large canapés served. This was herb cream cheese topped with
a roasted tomato on a drop scone base. There was also a smoked salmon version
A word about the menu and the pairings from Restaurant Manager Elise Bothma
Winemaker Arno Smit welcomed us and told us some of the Saartjie story. She came as a puppy from Villiersdorp 5 years ago and they are inseparable. Saartjie comes with him into the vineyards, but she only tastes the grapes in the Semillon vines (they have 1000). She is very popular with visitors to the restaurant and tasting room and people bring their dogs to have play dates with Saartjie. She's a character, very friendly and approachable
Saartjie with her 'grandparents'. Arno says that when most people hear Saartjie’s name, they always make the joke or assume her name comes from Saartjie Baartman, the most famous Khoikhoi woman who lived in the early Nineteenth Century. But Saartjie is an old family name. A Great aunt of his - a fierce old lady - who also cautiously observed and assessed from a distance, and then, when she needed to intervene or to stand her ground, she would make herself known and silence all the wrong-, say- or doers. Just like Saartjie does
Time to taste the wines
The menu was large, we hoped that the portions would not defeat us
Durbanville is known for its generosity.
We sat at a long table in the restaurant
We began with the Semillon. It is made in one old French barrel, so quantities are limited. It is herbal, spicy, dusty with green melon on the nose, Full and rounded on the palate, crisp apples and limes, naartjies, with wood way in the background, supporting. R145 on the farm. We loved it. It would be amazing with crayfish or other seafood
Paired with the Semillon was seared tuna with pink grapefruit segments, green beans and a light wasabi mayonnaise. A good match
Huge activity in the kitchen plating up servings of the second course...
...a deep fried ball of goat’s cheese with a beetroot purée, avocado mousse and roasted baby tomatoes which was served with the 2017 Cabernet Franc. The wine is complex on the nose, dark berries, balsam, spice and savouriness. A thick robust red wine with lots of chalky tannins, more wood and balsam and a savoury, salty end, so it really suited this course
The next course was a rosemary and coriander crusted fillet of beef, served with shimeji mushrooms, a bone marrow custard and topped with crisp onion rings. This was paired with the 2017 Malbec; savoury on the nose, with hints of cumin, umami, sour cherries and something indefinable. On the palate pure salty liquorice, lots of cassis berries and leaves, mulberries on chalky tannins, grippy and lean, with long flavours, ending in more liquorice wood. Should age well
At this point we had a power cut, known in South Africa as 'Load shedding"; a result of dismal management by politically selected "cadres" who were responsible for a general lack of maintenance at Eskom, our electricity generator. When Eskom runs out of coal or the machinery breaks down, they cut off certain areas for up to 2½ hours. So we continued to eat in the dark, the table lit only with a few tea lights and the little torch from John's camera bag. Sadly, in the process, we did not get a picture of the next course, which was slices of Duck Breast, accompanied by a confit duck leg, fondant potato, pea purée and a good cherry jus. An excellent course, if a bit chewy on the duck, but a great match for the Petit Verdot. The nose is sweet, cooked berry fruit, some violets and herbs. A heavyweight, heady wine, salty, complex and silky on the palate, with dark Tay berries, great black cherry flavours, liquorice on the long end. Another one to keep for a while
A night time view from the restaurant, across to Melkbos, where the lights were still burning. Thank you Eskom
These are the chefs who fed us so well. We were challenged by the amount of food, but it was all very good
Dessert was a rather sweet Berry sorbet, a decadent and rich chocolate fudge brownie with pecan nuts, a pistachio crumb, fresh strawberries and a vanilla bean crème. This was accompanied by coffee and a taste of the new 2016 Quarry, a merlot. Sweet berries on the nose, lots of cherryade notes too. Rich with tight chalky tannins, tension, this is very new and needs time to come forward; the fruit acid is still high
Thank you Hillcrest for a great evening and for coping so well with the power cut
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