Tuesday, October 04, 2016

A vertical tasting at Constantia Glen

The small range of wines from Constantia Glen is named by numbers, except the Sauvignon Blanc (which could be called One!). The numbers denote the sum of the parts. Two is a white Bordeaux blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, 3 is a red Bordeaux blend of 3 varietals: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc; and Five, another Bordeaux blend with all 5 Bordeaux varietals. They are classy wines, winning awards and scoring very highly in Platter and with other wine commentators. And, it must be said, the farm has some of the best views in the Cape. We were invited to a vertical tasting there, followed by a casual lunch. We were not disappointed
The tasting room had been commandeered for the function and customers were accommodated in the restaurant area. We were grateful as it was a typical spring day, blustery, sunny, chilly, even drizzle at one point
Sales Manager Gus Allen welcomed us
He told us the wines are evolving. The vineyard was only established in 2000 by the owners the Waibel family who recognised it's potential. It is winemaker Justin van Wyk's 9th vintage, with Megan van der Merwe joining him as Assistant winemaker for the last two vintages. The farm manager Etienne Southey has been there for four years
We drank the new 2016 Sauvignon Blanc on arrival, which has not yet been released. This was its first showing to the media. It was bottled in July. Grassy green with light pyrazines on the nose, it is crisp, lively, full of gooseberry and lime, with good elegance and needs time to settle
These were the wines we were to taste
Justin van Wyk took us through the tasting. The first planting of vines followed the horrendous December 1999 forest fires which affected the farm badly, as it swept over the Constantia Nek and took away everything in its path. The Bishops boarding house boys came to help fight the fire and Justin was among them, he was then in Grade 8. Now he makes the wines, having earned his degree in wine. Planting took place in 2000 and 2001 with one varietal in 2002. Very little Sauvignon Blanc was planted then, but soon they saw how well it produced in Constantia so, in 2005/6, many vines were re-grafted with it. It does well in the teeth of the cold South Easter at the height of the farm. It is a Bordeaux varietal focused farm and only grows those varietals. 75% of which are red. Because the farm is so high up the mountain, they get 2 hours more sunlight than the rest of Constantia
We began with 2011 Three. Classic perfume of violets, cassis and vanilla on the nose, so attractive and enticing. Soft chalky tannins, warm spicy alcohols, a good fruit driven wine, cassis, plums, soft but full, this will last for several years. Next the2012 Three. It has a similar nose, just more integrated. Cherries and berries on the palate, less Cabernet visible, not as soft and yielding with lots of tannins to hold it together. A cool year with late picking. 2013 Three has cherries again, with wood smoke whiffs. Sweet and sour cherries, very chalky tannins and then it opens up to cherry sweets, nice length, good minerality but needs time. (60% Merlot)
Assistant winemaker Megan van der Merwe and farm manager Etienne Southey
Then on to the Five. 2010 is dark with plum edges, Intense fruit with coffee on the nose. Gorgeous fruit and some umami on the palate, soft sweet ripe berries and cherries layered with tense tannins and choc coffee wood and a long end. 2011 Cassis, incense oak and pine nuts. Velvet chalky tannins, soft berry fruit with length. It keeps opening up showing more intensity and fruit and lots of elegance. Lynne's top scoring wine at 18.5. 2012 has jasmine, honey suckle, incense wood and hints of marjoram on the nose. Warm alcohols, soft chalky tannins cassis, morello cherries, less wood than 2011 and a little greenness. Still to come
Then for the white Bordeaux Blend, Two. 2013 has the classic oily mutton fat typical with semillon, olive richness, perfume of melon and white grapes. A round mouth of elderflower, honeysuckle, sweet fruit with lime acidity and warm alcohol, and a long finish. No oak visible. A begging for food wine. 2014 Grapey Hanepoot nose with some herbs. Its fizzy, spritzy almost Muscat d Alexandria spicy with good acidity and sweet white grape fruit. 2015 has a tighter nose, with lees, herbs, sweet fruit and incense hints. It is ethereal, more elegant. Similar on the palate with the Muscat spicy notes, nice mutton fat feel, but little Sauvignon Blanc character. Honey botrytis notes too. So popular it is already sold out! Our favourite too
A view looking in
Lunch was platters: hams, cheese olives and bread, for which they are famous.
The smoked salmon platter was very popular
as was the biltong and droëwors platter. We shared them all
All slipped down very easily with the Constantia Glen wines

The terrace with its superb mountain views. A great tasting
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016
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Lunch at Aubergine with a vertical tasting of Elgin Ridge wine

What use is having a wine farm if you cannot make a bubbly on it? says Marion Smith at a vertical tasting of Elgin Ridge wines which was followed by lunch at Aubergine Restaurant
Owner Brian Smith began the tasting telling us about the wines and their Elgin farm. They sold their successful IT business in London and moved to South Africa. In 2007 they bought this bare mountainside farm in Elgin and began to plant vines. They have Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and some Chardonnay which is used in their Rosé 2011 MCC, called MV which is mainly (73%) Pinot Noir
The 20 hectare farm has 7 hectares under vine and 10 are pasture; they are farming organically with ECOCERT certification. They also have cattle. Recently appointed winemaker, Kosie van der Merwe, has now planted 900 Semillon vines to add to Sauvignon Blanc and may put it into barrel so that they can make a white Bordeaux blend
We tasted seven Sauvignons Blanc: 2013 has herbal fynbos, green on the nose and palate with racy acidity. The 2014 is a bit more golden fruit than 2013 but still has the racy acidity. The 2015 has lots of green pyrazines with grassy notes and intense acidity and warm alcohol. The older 2012 is complex with a very different nose. It’s more golden, more integrated, grassy and a little perfumed. Crisp acidity still holds the wine together. The 2011 has structure and softer acidity. It is vegetal and full. There is no Semillon on this one. Niels Verburg helped make the 2010; it has fruit, perfume, elegance and depth, but has lost much of the grape acidity. Finally we tasted the 2009, made by Andrew Gunn of Iona and Jean Smuts of Boekenhoutskloof. Perfumed, grassy, grapey. A tingle on the tongue, refreshing, sherbety, with  pyrazines crisp and dry
Then we tasted the MCC. This 2011 vintage is a blend of 83% Pinot Noir and 17% Chardonnay. The wine is matured for two years in old French barrels, where it is naturally fermented. It spends 2 years on the lees being stirred, then a second ferment in bottle and another 3 years on the lees. It does not receive a dosage. It is partridge eye pink. Sweet pinot fruit predominates and there is a leesy character. It sells for R500 a bottle. Marion says she drinks a lot of it
Media listening intently during the tasting. Cabernet franc will come soon; they are making it in collaboration with another farm. It will be bought in and is not organic
The lunch menu
Another memorable starter from chef Harald Bresselschmidt. (Lynne cannot forget two other dishes he made when at Grande Roche, a mushroom soup and an apple strudel ice cream). The kingklip (line caught) was perfectly and gently cured, as you would gravadlax, then cooked sous vide. It looked raw, but was soft and yielding and had a texture rather like crab meat. It had an attractive pearlescence, so pretty, and the passion fruit dressing could not have been a better foil to the rich fish. It was accompanied by sautéed strips of abalone and served with spears of just blanched new season asparagus, dressed with garden herbs and flowers. Special mention must also be made of the rocket pesto, hot and peppery served with the bread. This course was served with the crisp 282 2015 Sauvignon Blanc, which had a good mouth feel, with warm alcohol
The main course was a duck breast people raved about. Crisp skin after rendering down all the fat, but served pink and tender, very flavourful with a sour morello cherry reduction, allspice, a red cabbage gel, baby corn and mushrooms and spinach. This was a good match for the 282 2013 Pinot Noir with its cherry fruit and slight bitterness from dark wood
Chef Harald had us all fooled with his menu description of the last course. We thought we were in for a cheese course as it was titled Gonedsa Belegen which is a matured (belegen) South African gouda style cheese. In fact, it was a tiny creamy cheese tart with superbly crisp buttery pastry, served with a pawpaw and apple ice cream with hints of rosemary; delectable. Sadly the wine served, the Late 96, a very oxidised 1996 Sauvignon blanc, was rather late
Chef Harald with Nicolette Waterford, owner of Waterford Communications who handled the Public Relations for the event
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Lunch at Buitenverwachting with Lars Maack and Brad Paton

Changes on wine farms are inevitable and we heard about those changes at Buitenverwachting when we had lunch with owner Lars Maack recently. The opening of the coffee shop - Coffee Bloc - has made this an even more popular Constantia venue and the overflow into the tasting room has made inroads to the sale and tasting of wine. The restaurant, which was voted one of the Top 100 Restaurants in the American Express Platinum Fine Dining Awards - 2016, is in one of the old farm buildings and forms part of the Buitenverwachting Werf. It flows out onto the courtyard with its fountain and the coffee shop next to the Wine Tasting Centre. So the tasting room will now move to the old wine cellar on the side of the large lawn, giving it a great opportunity to grow and focus more on the sale of wine and themed tastings, offering so much more to visitors to this iconic Constantia wine farm. The picnics will cease and other food options will be available there and at the restaurant
The old cellar will be the new tasting room and its renovation is nearing completion
The courtyard with the restaurant on the right, the old tasting room in the middle and the Coffee Bloc on the left
Lars shows us the work being done inside the new tasting room
A coffee shop blackboard
Ah, time for a glass of Buitenverwachting's good crisp MCC Brut
Some of the wines we tasted with lunch
The menu; each course was paired with two wines
Lipitauer cheese spread and butter for the very good garlic and rosemary foccacia
The view to the mountains and vineyards from the restaurant
This was a life changer of an Amuse Bouche! An antipasti dish but what could this scattering of different things be? In fact it was chef Edgar Osojnik deconstruction of an excellent Caprese salad of basil, mozzarella and tomato in many delicious forms. Different heritage tomatoes served fresh, confit, air dried, roasted, in a terrine with the cheese, jellied. Dehydrated basil oil in a spoon to blow the dish wide open. One to return to, again and again. So clever
The next course, our starter, is explained to us
It was Edgar's take on a free-form Caesar salad with pan fried Norwegian Salmon. Simple flavours that combined so well. Gem lettuce quarters, white anchovies, a free range soft boiled egg, a crisp bacon strip, croutons and a very good Hollandaise sauce
The course was paired with 2 Sauvignon Blancs, The Hussey’s Vlei 2012 (always a favourite) is a classic Constantia Sauvignon, layered with limes and passion fruit, deep concentrated flavours with dry tannins, very refreshing.
And the Constantia 2016, newly released, which has a fuller leesy nose, with golden fruit and lemons, no pyrazines on either, just good refreshing, layered wines
Brad Paton is now Cellarmaster, Hermann Kirschbaum has taken on the role of General Manager of Buitenverwachting. Brad told us that they are ripening the Sauvignons Blanc as long as possible, and sales have increased fast. More golden fruit, no greenness is what the market wants. Buitenverwachting is one of the top Sauvignon Blanc producers, leading their production with Buiten Blanc, their best seller white blend. They have healthy vines with bigger crops. They spray with sulphur and copper only when necessary, no hard chemical sprays are used. And they have good staff relationships. Buitenverwachting was a pioneer in providing their staff with excellent accommodation and living conditions
Served with the next course was the limited release Maximus 2013 Sauvignon Blanc which has incense wood, vanilla and perfume on the nose, creamy and full on the palate with flavours of pears, apples and quince. Dark toast on the end turns it into a mouth watering food wine. This wine wins awards
Then we moved to the Chardonnay 2015 with its golden nose, perfumed with limes. It is crisp, full layered a quite wonderful expression of elegant chardonnay, full of apples, melon, some warmth and a long end with a hint of wood.
The next course, officially the second, was three large triangles of duck liver paté and it was not a little daunting, knowing that the main and a final course were still to follow. Seared bitter endive and morello cherry jelly went so well with the rich  paté. Orange segments, a fig coulis and a spicy plum chutney all added different fruit and acid notes to counter the richness and tiny walnut brioches which acted as the carrier for the paté
This mushroom consommé with a mushroom ravioli was the substitute course for the vegetarians at the table
Our main course of pan fried lamb cutlet noisettes in a lamb jus with an aubergine falafel, chorizo, rich leek puree, roasted chickpeas (they were a great hit), dried slices of garlic (wow, what a hit of garlic) and gremolata yoghurt. This was accompanied by Christine 2012 Buiten's top Bordeaux blend, an incense, cherry and cassis blast on the nose, followed by French perfume and violets. Soft chalky tannins, lots of cassis and mulberries, with warm alcohols, cassis leaves and dry tannins make this a wine certain to last and continue to impress more as the years go by. And the limited release Rough Diamond 2012 60% Petite Verdot, 40 % Malbec. A savoury nose with umami and violets, on the palate cherries, mulberries, soft and creamy and sappig (juicy). This award winning wine has matured very well. These limited edition wines allow for creativity and allow the winemaker to do the best with the estate’s best grapes
The final course was not dessert, but a cheese platter with more of those walnut brioches and melba toast with grapes and figs
This was served with a glass of the first vintage (2005) of 1796. Buitenverwachting's excellent marmalade sweet Noble Late Harvest made from Muscat de Frontignan . Brad also makes a great Sherry 2007. A non-vintage blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin and Viognier in solera barrels. It’s experimental. Called by Lars Wipe the Flor
We look forward to seeing the changes in the near future. This was a great experience, superb wine and food paired so well! Lynne's tasting glasses at the end of the meal. We can never finish all the wine tasting portions we are poured, we would just become too inebriated. Although one or two of our colleagues do. Uber is necessary
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016