Monday, August 31, 2015

In the Pink - Launch of Rosé Rocks, SA's first Rosé competition at Cavalli

We've been told that this is the first ever competition for rosé wines in South Africa and it is hoped that it will raise the profile of the rosé wines that we can produce so well. Rosé wines have (sadly) been viewed in the past as wines only suitable for giving to your girlfriend or mother on Valentine’s Day or Mother’s Day. And, usually, they are seen as sweet and characterless. We think they are worth much more than that. Overseas, especially in the South of France, these easy drinking, fruity wines are enormously popular with food, especially at lunches, often in the summer. They are normally lower in alcohol and you can share a meal of fish, seafood and meat without having to order more than one bottle of wine, as most rosés pair excellently with all dishes. A few years ago, many farms upped their game and produced some really good rosé wines - we used to sell lots - but many have now disappeared. The supermarkets are selling too many characterless wines, with one or two excellent exceptions. Do we blame their buyers or the uninformed public for excluding those dryer, more elegant rosés from their shelves? Perhaps this competition will bring the good rosés to the fore again.
What is a rosé wine? Officially it is made from the first free run juice of a red wine, bled off to increase the concentration of the juice used to make the red wine. To quote Wikipedia, rosé is "wine that incorporates some of the colour from the grape skins, but not enough to qualify it as a red wine". Very pale pink wines can be known as Blanc de Noir (white from red). It has all the nuances and flavours of its red grape, just few tannins and no wood. It can be made from a blend of white and red wines, illegal in France but not in South Africa. You might like to know that in the UK, they spend ₤1.8 million on rosé wines each year, so this could be a great market for our Rosés.
We were invited to lunch at Equus restaurant at Cavalli wine estate on Thursday to hear about the competition.
Judging will take place on Wednesday, 9th September, and the results will be announced within 2 weeks of the competition. The Judges are: Chairman, Alan Mullins, CWM and Woolworths wine buyer; Journalist Neil Pendock; Marthelize Tredoux, Journalist and wine exporter; Tinashe Nyamudoka Head Sommelier at The Test Kitchen;, Tatiana Marcetteau, Sommelier at Cellars Hohenhort ; Praisy Dlamini, winemaker; and food and wine Journalist Malu Lambert.
Chef Hilton Espey produced a great lunch menu which paired very well with the wines we drank. He told us he was waiting for the delivery of the main course fish, so we knew it was going to be very fresh
Chair of the judges Alan Mullins with Leah van Deventer of Good Housekeeping, on the terrace with a good glass of pink MCC from Villiera
Chef Hilton Espey explains the lunch menu while Lynne takes notes on her phone
On the other side of the table, Terri Dunbar Cohen of Independent Newspapers and Shante Hutton of Wine.co.za
Sommelier Farai Magwada telling us about the wine to be served with the first course
The Morgenzon Garden Vineyards 2014 Rosé from Shiraz, Grenache, Mourvedre. Crisp and dry with notes of summer fruits
Gentle citrus cured gravadlax of local trout with pear slices poached in red wine, a num num gastrique and flaked almonds, topped with spring pea shoots. Num Nums are the sour red fruit of an indigenous variety of jasmine. We had never had pears with trout and this works very well. The puree added the acidity and the almonds a good texture crunch.
Lots of tweeting happening. We did trend for a while
Fresh glasses
The main course was served with Cavalli's Pink Pony rosé made from Grenache, was well seared and just delivered fresh Hake fillets on a bed of truffle mash with a saffron seafood sauce
Sommelier Farai tells us about the next wine, the Vondeling 2015 bright and lively Rosé, made from Merlot, which was served with dessert. This is a marvellous lunchtime wine, dry with soft cherry & strawberry fruit and a hint of nuts
Dessert was a deconstructed white chocolate cheesecake, ginger biscuit crumbs and lemon ice cream and a shard of cardamom blond caramel, which added unusual hints of cucumber. Rich and unctuous
All attending finished off the lunch with a toast to rosé and the competition
For those who see journos as over-thirsty, the table at the end of lunch
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2015

Great fun on a wine tour to cool Elgin

Most of the tours we conduct go, by the clients' choice, to the most well-known (to foreign visitors) areas, such as Stellenbosch. As most of our readers know, we go there very often. Stellenbosch, in itself, can be seen as a generic term because it is a large area with many very different terroirs. While it has a huge number of wonderful wine producers, it is quite close to home and therefore convenient. It also claims a massive share of the South African wine industry limelight and some other areas get lost in its shadow.
Which is why we really enjoy taking visitors to some of those other areas. Recently, we had the opportunity to take a party of American and South African wine enthusiasts to Elgin. The same party came with us to Durbanville earlier this year, having toured in Constantia and Stellenbosch on other visits. This time, we started at Paul Cluver. Cellarmaster Andries Burger had to be in Johannesburg, but he put us into the very capable hands of their Sales manager, Shaun McVey, who showed us the cellar and their wines with great enthusiasm and knowledge of his subject

Shaun showed us the winemaking equipment
and then took us through the cellar, telling us about the way the wines are matured, the wood used in the barrels and what goes into the wines they produce. In addition to wine, Paul Cluver also make cider and apple brandy, apples being an important crop for most Elgin farmers
Then, in a private tasting venue, Shaun took us through the wines produced at Paul Cluver. Our visitors were accustomed to tasting what they regard as typical South African varietals, Shiraz, Cabernet sauvignon, etc. Here, they were able to experience wonderful wines made from varietals which grow best in a cool climate; Sauvignon blanc, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay which can compete with the best from other areas internationally. They were especially impressed with the flagship Seven Flags Pinot noir and arranged to have it shipped to them in Michigan

The Paul Cluver wines we tasted: Sauvignon blanc, Gewürztraminer, three Rieslings (including the Noble Late Harvest), Chardonnay and three Pinot Noirs
From Paul Cluver, we moved on to visit Sean Skibbe, winemaker at South Hill. We have known Sean since he called on us at our shop in South Hill’s early days, when he doubled as winemaker and sales rep and convinced us of the quality of his Sauvignon blanc and, later, his Cabernet sauvignon. His brief has expanded and he now makes wines under the label of Kevin King, South Hill’s owner, in addition to the original South Hill wines. The farm was planted with a variety of wine cultivars and Sean now makes a variety of wines under the Kevin King label from Barbera, Malbec, Mourvedre, Pinot noir, Semillon and Syrah as well as the two original sauvignon varietals. He took us through a most informative tasting of his wines
For anyone looking for food, Elgin shuts down on Mondays, probably because they are a popular weekend destination. They have a variety of really good places to stop for lunch, but they all close on Monday and Tuesday. Thank heavens for the Peregrine farm stall, a very important local landmark. This is not just a roadside stop for a quick refreshment. It has a very good bakery, sells excellent local fresh veg and meat products and a good selection of wines from the area. Last year, they had a devastating fire, probably sourced in the pizza oven, which destroyed the restaurant. They rebuilt remarkably quickly and this was our stop for lunch
One of our Americans, looking for something typically local, chose the Boerewors roll, made with the famed Grabouw wors from the local butchery, served with chips and salad
The ladies in the party opted for the Falafel, served with salad and a goats’ cheese dip
The other boys chose the delicious springbok pie, the local piece de Resistance
The chips were not as well done as we would have liked. The Cape penchant for underdone, half cooked, “slap” chips strikes again, despite "well done" being on the order! But great value
A good lunch for six people for R 590 plus tip, which is $44, €39 or £29
Then we were off to see Paul and Nicky Wallace at Wallovale and taste their wines. Paul is consultant viticulturalist to a large number of wine producers and Nicky has been involved in the sharp end of wine marketing for many years. At Wallovale he specialises in Malbec - his Black Dog Malbec is excellent - but also produces very good Sauvignon blanc, Pinot Noir and a red blend. The party liked the Black Dog so much that they bought nine cases
Paul Wallace with his son Mark, who is assistant winemaker at Hamilton Russell in the Hemel en Aarde Valley
Dr Steve with Paul Wallace
The party in jovial mood before returning home
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2015
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