Friday, November 25, 2022

In MENU This Week. Diemersfontein Clockmaker Chenin, Bolzano in the Boland, Platter 2023 reveal

A Jackal Buzzard (Buteo rufofuscus) in flight 

Before we say anything else, we congratulate Conrad Vlok of Strandveld Vineyards and Jerome van Rooi of Cederberg, this year’s Winemaker and Young Winemaker of the Year. We are delighted for both of them. However, we are not saying anything more, except to them in private. We were invited to the black tie awards dinner by the sponsoring bank. We turned it down. We were expected to drive a 210Km round trip at our own expense, then either drive home at midnight after a wine-filled event or pay to stay overnight in the hotel, minimum cost R3450 – to publicise their event. ‘Nuff said!

But here are this week’s stories - of a wonderful weekend event at one of our favourite wine estates and special awards for some of our favourite winemakers. Thank you for reading; enjoy them!

Diemersfontein launches The Clockmaker Old Vine Chenin blanc

We were invited by David and Sue Sonnenberg to the launch of the new Diemersfontein 2021 Old Vine Chenin Blanc called The Clockmaker. The name tells a wonderful story from some of the farm’s history. In 1942, South Africa and Italy were at war. Italy was aligned with Hitler and Nazi Germany. Italians saw action in Albania, Greece and Yugoslavia and in Libya, an Italian colony since 1911, which was where Italian troops encountered the South African forces in the Western Desert. A young Italian man Cesare Zanardi was taken prisoner, brought to South Africa and sent, with 2 other prisoners, to work on Diemersfontein. Read on…

Bolzano in the Boland

An Italian Celebration at Diemersfontein on Saturday 12th November to launch The Clockmaker Old Vine Chenin blanc was open to the public and was very well subscribed. Read on…

Platter 2023 Awards at Jordan Restaurant

The Launch of the 2023 Platter Guide, sponsored by Diners Club, was held at Jordan wine estate on the 17th of November. We were invited to attend the awards presentation and the reveal of the colour of this year’s guide, always a closely guarded secret. The guide will be available in stores from December 10th 2022. The Digital version was released at this launch and is available now on the apps for iOS/Apple and Android, and on the website, www.wineonaplatter.com  Read on…




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Platter 2023 Awards at Jordan Restaurant

The Launch of the 2023 Platter Guide, sponsored by Diners Club, was held at Jordan wine estate on the 17th of November. We were invited to attend the awards presentation and the reveal of the colour of this year’s guide, always a closely guarded secret. The guide will be available in stores from December 10th 2022. The Digital version was released at this launch and is available now on the apps for iOS/Apple and Android, and on the website, www.wineonaplatter.com

This 43nd edition of South Africa’s favourite wine guide features well over 900 producers, merchants and brands, including 37 new ones, and over 8,000 locally produced wines, as well as brandies, husk spirits and sherry-style wines.

This year was entitled The Pinnacle Awards and only the top Five Star winner of each category was to be awarded. Those winemakers were invited with just a few members of the media and guests of Diners Club. It was a much smaller launch than in previous years. No more the huge launch with all the top Five Star wines awarded with their certificates and a huge tasting of the top Four and Five Star wines afterwards. There were 26 Five Star category awards plus the prestigious Winery of the Year Award, the Editor's Award and the Newcomer of the Year Award

The full list of Five Star wines is at the end of this report

Jordan welcomed us with a glass of their very elegant and crisp Blanc de Blanc Cap Classique...

... and some oysters were served from Chef Marthinus Ferreira, previously of DW Eleven - 13 in Johannesburg,
He has taken over the management of The Jordan Restaurant from Chef George Jardine

Johan and Sofie Kruger share a joke with Reenen Borman and Anton Rall
Good to see them all here, knowing that only winemakers who have received an award are invited
The question always is "For which wine?"

Mike Bampfield-Duggan of Wine Concepts with Maryna Calow of WOSA

Amanda Ferreira of Platter's and photographer Shawn Benjamin

Good to be able to sample the newly released Timepiece wines
Timepiece is a new and innovative wine range from Jordan Wine Estate
which celebrates its heritage by producing single bottlings of wines from estate vineyards 35 years and older

There are currently two, the TImepiece 2020 Chenin Blanc and the Timepiece 2020 Sauvignon, both exceptional
and both have lovely, intense layers of fruit
https://www.jordanwines.com/taste-our-wines/timepiece/

PRO for Platter Posy Hazell and Platter wine judge and wine writer Malu Lambert

Eshvaran Naidoo, Diners Club South Africa's Managing Director, got things started
and spoke about why Diners Club, a credit card company, is interested in supporting the wine industry
Because of their customers, who spend money in the industry and because it’s a highly upwardly mobile business

The event was held in the Jordan Restaurant



Philip van Zyl, the Editor of Platter
about to present the Five Star Pinnacle awards to the wines and spirits at the top of their categories

The restaurant was rapidly turning out excellent canapés for after the awards

Then came the three top awards

The Top Performing Winery of the Year
goes to the winery that achieves the most five-star ratings after the annual final tasting round
This year, the worthy recipient is Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines,
with an astonishing run of eight five-star results, presented to Andrea and Chris Mullineux
This is the stellar Swartland-based venture’s fifth time as Platter’s highest achiever,
having been best-performing winery in 2014, 2016, 2019 and 2020

Next, the Editor’s Award for Winery of the Year
It recognizes a winegrowing individual or team who, based on performance in the current edition as well as their track record, are ambassadors par excellence for South African wine
The award goes to Cape Winemakers Guild member Duncan Savage and his Cape Town boutique winery Savage Wines
Last year Savage Wines achieved a remarkable seven five-star ratings
An amazing five such rankings this year, once again proving Duncan’s consistency as a trailblazer
and undoubtedly one of the Cape’s foremost winemakers

Esh Naidoo presents the Award for Newcomer Winery of the Year to Colin Firth, Jean and Robin Voigt of Trade Winds
It is awarded to the producer who debuts in Platter’s this year and achieves the highest scores
Trade Winds Wine is owned by friends and long-time serious wine aficionados Martin Voigt and Richard Wells
They won with a brilliant five-star Cabernet Sauvignon blended by Colin Frith, an honorary Cape Wine Master
and one of the most experienced men-about-the-winelands

Andrea Mullineux made a very emotional and thankful speech,
the Covid period had been hard to the industry, they were so happy to receive the award

Jean Voigt of Trade Winds said that they never imagined when they entered that they would get this high award

And the new 2023 Platter Guides colour is .......

TaDa! Elemental white with rose gold lettering, to compliment last year’s Black and Gold guide

Esh Naidoo presented Philip with a special award for his work over the years

Van Zyl family hug

The van Zyl family, Philip, Luke and Cathy with Esh Naidoo of Diners Club

Chef Marthinus Ferreira creating magic 

A canapé of zingy fish on crispy fish skin

We were both very busy taking photos, writing and tasting the wine so, sadly, we did miss tasting most of the canapés
We think this was duck pancake topped with cherry jam

Sjaak Nelson, Cellarmaster at Jordan, with Johan and Sofie Kruger
who had a Pinnacle Five Star Award for their Kruger Grenache Noir
Jordan themselves received Five Stars for their Nine Yards Chardonnay 2021, Jordan Cobblers Hill 2018 and Jordan Sophia 2017

Jean and Robin Voigt of Trade Winds, who won the Award for Newcomer Winery of the Year
The Trade Winds Cabernet 2019 has incense wood, richness, cassis and mulberry fruit
with chalky tannins and long flavours with dark licorice wood

Duncan Savage and Paul Jordaan of Sadie Family Wines
Sadie family wines won the Pinnacle Five Star award for Red Blends, Shiraz/Syrah-based Sadie Columella 2020
and for the White Blends, Other with Sadie ‘T Voetpad 2021
Duncan Savage scooped the very coveted Editor’s Award, Winery of the Year
It recognizes a winegrowing individual or team who, based on performance in the current edition
as well as their track record, is an ambassador par excellence for South African wine

and then it was time to taste the top 26 wines, starting with the white wines
We tried to taste them all and made a valiant effort as these are definitely some of the best wines to be tasted this year

The Mullineux CWG Trifecta 2020 went quickly as so many wanted to taste it
It has perfume and wood on the nose and lovely layers of fruit and elegance
The Thorne and Daughters Paper Kite 2021 Old Vine Semillon is classic and long with warmth on the palate

Suné Eksteen with Bartho Eksteen Five Star Pinnacle winner 2021 Houtskool Sauvignon Blanc
It is a very sophisticated rendition, green, crisp, long and shouting for food

Benguela Cove's Five Star Pinnacle winner, Sauvignon Semillon Bordeaux white blend, made by Johann Fourie is so excellent
Lots of green aromas and flavours, with herbs and many layers which keep revealing themselves. Great waxy mouthfeel
Both varietals speak together, as they should

Lemburg's Pinnacle Five Star wine Hárslevelű 2021. Unusual and different, crisp,
full of fruit and dark oak and drying tannins. We need to get to know this better
In its native Hungary, Hárslevelű is one of the components of the famed Tokay wines
This is an Old Vines wine; it was planted in the late 70s by winemaker Janey Muller who established Lemberg in 1978

This dish took Lynne's breath away.  It is apparently Chef Martinus's signature dish
A tiny deep-fried ball of intense cheese and polenta set custard,
so full of flavour, umami, olive or nut oil with balsamic (?Lynne was guessing)
surrounded by beautifully toasted pine nuts, capers and topped with a crème and deep-fried kale
We cannot wait to taste more of his cooking

This is what the dish looked like before the other ingredients were added

Klein Constantia winemaker Matthew Day, who won the Pinnacle award for their Natural Sweet Vin de Constance 2018
in conversation with Francois Rautenbach of Singita Lodges

A table of charcuterie and cheese delights with bread, crackers and chutneys and jam

Lots of interest in the tasting room

Rich dark cake topped with a cream cheese icing

Tiny Religieuse choux petit fours, filled with a mocca crème
Melted in the mouth and were so delicious. They are meant to represent nuns!

The full list of Five Star Award winners

Wines receiving the sought-after five-star rating in Platter’s must undergo a rigorous process of sighted and blind assessment (i.e. with and without sight of the label) by a team of experienced experts. Bottlings that are judged to be “Superlative, a South African classic” are given the highest ranking of five stars, equal to 95 points or better on the 100-point rating scale.

Of the 5-star-awarded wines, the top performers within each category receive the coveted accolade, Wines of the Year. This time there are 26 category winners. They are:

Cabernet Franc
Mulderbosch Single Vineyard 2019

Cabernet Sauvignon
Le Riche Reserve 2019

Cinsault
Rall 2021

Grenache Noir
Kruger Old Vines 2020

Merlot
Longridge Misterie 2017

Petit Verdot
Benguela Cove Vinography 2020

Pinotage
Kanonkop Black Label 2020

Pinot Noir
Cap Maritime 2021

Shiraz/Syrah
Patatsfontein Sons of Sugarland Syrah 2021

Red Blends, Cape Bordeaux
Fleur du Cap Laszlo 2019

Red Blends, with Pinotage
Beyerskloof Faith 2018

Red Blends, Shiraz/Syrah-based
Sadie Columella 2020

Red Blends, Other
Leeu Passant Dry Red 2019

Chardonnay
Hamilton Russell 2021

Chenin blanc
Mullineux CWG Trifecta 2020

Hárslevelü
Lemberg 2021

Sauvignon Blanc
Bartho Eksteen Houtskool 2021

Semillon
Thorne & Daughters Paper Kite 2021

White Blends, Cape Bordeaux
Benguela Cove Vinography Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc 2021

White Blends, Other
Sadie ‘T Voetpad 2021

Cap Classique
Anthonij Rupert L’Ormarins Private Cuvée 2014

Dessert Wine, Fortified
De Krans Muscat Blanc 2022

Natural Sweet
Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2018

Noble Late Harvest
Paul Clüver Riesling 2021

Vin de Paille
Mullineux Olerasay Straw Wine NV

Port-style
Boplaas Cape Vintage Reserve 2020

The 196 five-star wines for 2023 are:

Cabernet Franc
Botanica Big Flower 2020
David Finlayson Camino Africana 2020
Mulderbosch Single Vineyard 2019
Warwick 2019
Cabernet Sauvignon
Bartinney Skyfall 2017
Benguela Cove Vinography 2019
Erika Obermeyer Erika O 2019
Kanonkop 2018
Le Riche Reserve 2019
Miles Mossop Maximilian CWG 2019
Nederburg Manor House 2019
Restless River Main Road & Dignity 2019
Reyneke Biodynamic Reserve 2019
Rickety Bridge The Bridge 2020
Stark-Condé Oude Nektar 2019
Trade Winds 2019

Cinsault
Kleine Zalze Project Z 2021
Leeu Passant Basson 2020
Rall 2021
Rickety Bridge Paulina’s Reserve Old Vine 2021

Grenache Noir
AA Badenhorst Raaigras 2021
David & Nadia 2021
Kruger Old Vines 2020
Mischa Reserve 2021
Momento 2020

Merlot
Longridge Misterie 2017
Petit Verdot
Benguela Cove Vinography 2020

Pinotage
Beeslaar 2020
De Grendel Amandelboord 2020
Diemersdal Prospect 2020
Francois van Niekerk 2020
illimis 2021
Kaapzicht Steytler 2020
Kanonkop Black Label 2020
Survivor Reserve 2020

Pinot Noir
Bosman Hermanus 2021
Cap Maritime 2021
Creation The Art of Pinot Noir 2021
Crystallum Bona Fide 2021
Crystallum Cuvée Cinéma 2021
Crystallum Mabalel 2021
Kara-Tara Reserve 2020
Oak Valley South Ridge PN667 2020
Storm Vrede 2021

Shiraz/Syrah
Boschkloof Epilogue 2020
De Grendel Elim Shiraz 2020
De Grendel Op die Berg Syrah 2021
Harry Hartman Somesay 2021
Hartenberg The Stork 2019
Keermont Topside Syrah 2017
Mullineux Jakkalsfontein Granite Syrah 2020
Mullineux Iron Kasteelsig Syrah 2020
Mullineux Schist Roundstone Syrah 2020
Mullineux Syrah 2020
Patatsfontein Sons of Sugarland Syrah 2021
Rall Ava Syrah 2021
Savage CWG Syrah 2020
Savage Girl Next Door 2021
Savage Red 2020
Wolf & Woman Syrah 2021

Red Blends, Cape Bordeaux
Allée Bleue L’Amour Toujours 2017
Alto MPHS 2016
Darling Cellars Sir Charles Darling 2019
Fleur du Cap Laszlo 2019
Glenelly Lady May 2018
Hartenberg The Mackenzie 2017
Jordan Cobblers Hill 2018
Jordan Sophia 2017
Keet First Verse 2019
Marianne Desirade 2019
Overgaauw Tria Corda 2019
Stellenrust Timeless 2019
Stony Brook The Max 2019
Thelema Rabelais 2020
Van Biljon Cinq 2018
Vondeling Philosophie 2017
Woolworths Cobblers Hill 2018
Red Blends, with Pinotage
Beyerskloof Faith 2018

Red Blends, Shiraz/Syrah-based
ArtiSons JJ Handmade Eight Pillars 2019
Ellerman House The Ellerman 2020
Sadie Columella 2020

Red Blends, Other
Blackwater Sophie Cabernet Franc-Cinsaut 2021
De Trafford Elevation 393 2016
Fairview Homtini 2019
Leeu Passant Dry Red 2019
Leopard’s Leap Pardus 2020
Marianne Floréal 2019
Van Wyk Rebecca May 2021

Chardonnay
Bartinney Hourglass 2020
Capensis Fijnbosch 2018
Creation Glenn’s Chardonnay 2021
David Finlayson Shale Terraces 2021
Delaire Graff Terraced Block 2021
Draaiboek Onskuld 2021
GlenWood Grand Duc 2020
GlenWood Vigneron’s Selection 2021
Hamilton Russell 2021
Jordan Nine Yards 2021
Leeu Passant Stellenbosch 2020
Longridge Organic Clos du Ciel 2018
Newton Johnson CWG Sandford 2020
Oak Valley South Ridge CY95 2020
Oak Valley Groenlandberg 2021
Oldenburg 2021
Richard Kershaw Elgin 2020
Richard Kershaw Kogelberg Sandstone CY76 2020
Richard Kershaw Lower Duivenhoks River 2020
Storm Ridge 2021
Tokara Reserve 2021
Warwick The White Lady 2021

Chenin Blanc
Alheit Cartology 2021
Alheit Fire by Night 2021
Bellingham The Bernard Series 2021
Bosman Family Optenhorst 2021
Botanica Mary Delany Collection 2021
Catherine Marshall Fermented in Clay 2021
Cederberg Five Generations 2021
David & Nadia 2021
David & Nadia Plat’bos 2021
David & Nadia Skaliekop 2021
DeMorgenzon Reserve 2021
Eenzaamheid 2020
JC Wickens Swerwer 2021
Kaapzicht Kliprug 2021
Leeuwenkuil White 2020
Metzer & Holfeld Montane 2021
Mullineux CWG Trifecta 2020
Mullineux Granite Eikelaan 2021
Old Road Wine Company Stone Trail 2020
Raats CWG The Fountain 2021
Rall Ava 2021
Sadie Mev. Kirsten 2021
Sakkie Mouton Revenge Of The Crayfish 2021
Savage Never Been Asked To Dance 2021
Scions of Sinai Granietsteen 2021
Stark-Condé Monk Stone 2021
Stellenrust Old Bushvine 2021
Wade Bales Breedekloof 2021

Hárslevelü
Lemberg 2021

Sauvignon Blanc
Anthonij Rupert Altima 2022
Bartho Eksteen CWG Vloekskoot 2021
Bartho Eksteen Houtskool 2021
Cederberg David Nieuwoudt Ghost Corner Wild Ferment 2021
Diemersdal The Journal 2021
Diemersdal Wild Horseshoe 2021
Marianne 2021
Steenberg The Black Swan 2021
Thorne & Daughters Snakes & Ladders 2021
Trizanne Sondagskloof White 2021
Vergelegen SV Schaapenberg 2020

Semillon
Anthonij Rupert Laing Groendruif 2021
Black Elephant Vintners The Dark Side Of The Vine 2019
Boekenhoutskloof 2020
De Kleine Wijn Koöp Debutant White 2021
De Kleine Wijn Koöp Road to Santiago 2021
Gabriëlskloof Magdalena 2021
Rickety Bridge The Pilgrimage 2020
The Vineyard Party I’m Your Huckleberry 2019
Thorne & Daughters Paper Kite 2021

White Blends, Cape Bordeaux
Benguela Cove Vinography Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc 2021
Delaire Graff White Reserve 2020
Morgenster White Reserve 2021
Savage White 2021
Wade Bales Constantia Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2021

White Blends, Other
Alheit Hemelrand Vine Garden 2021
Beaumont New Baby 2021
Bellingham Freda 2021
Creation Viognier-Roussanne 2021
David & Nadia Aristargos 2021
Keermont Terrasse 2021
Mullineux Old Vines White 2021
Rall White 2021
Sadie Skerpioen 2021
Sadie Palladius 2020
Sadie ‘T Voetpad 2021
Stark-Condé The Field Blend 2021
Tempel Kattemaai Chenin Blanc-Semillon 2021
The Ahrens Family The WhiteBlack 2020
The Grapesmith Die Kluisenaar 2019
Vuurberg White 2021

Cap Classique
Anthonij Rupert L’Ormarins Blanc de Blancs 2017
Anthonij Rupert L’Ormarins Private Cuvée 2014
Colmant Absolu Zero Dosage NV
Saltare Brut Rosé NV
Silverthorn CWG Big Dog VIII 2017
Silverthorn Jewel Box 2017
Dessert Wine, Fortified
De Krans Muscat Blanc 2022

Natural Sweet
Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2018

Noble Late Harvest
Delheim Edelspatz 2020
Miles Mossop Kika 2021
Paul Clüver Riesling 2021

Vin de Paille
Fairview La Beryl Blanc 2022
Mullineux Olerasay Straw Wine NV
Zevenwacht Vine Dried Muscat Blanc 2019

Port-style
Boplaas Cape Vintage Reserve 2020
KWV Cape Tawny NV

Brandy
Boplaas Potstill Reserve 20 Years
KWV Centenary
KWV Nexus
KWV 20 Year Old
KWV 15 Year Old Alambic
KWV 12 Year Old Barrel Select
KWV 10 Year Old Vintage
Tokara XO Potstill
Van Ryn 20 Year Old Potstill
Van Ryn 15 Year Old Potstill
Van Ryn 12 Year Old Potstill

Husk Spirit
Dalla Cia 10 Year Old Celebration Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot

  •     Tasters for 2023: Winnie Bowman, Greg de Bruyn, Tim James, Malu Lambert, Angela Lloyd, Fiona McDonald, Christine Rudman, Penelope Setti, Dave Swingler, Cathy van Zyl and Meryl Weaver
  •       Associate tasters: Nomonde Kubheka and Keize Mumba

All our stories can be seen in the Blog Archive near the top of the column on the right

If you do not wish to receive e-mails from us, please email menucape@gmail.com with the word 'UNSUBSCRIBE' in your email