Fields and trees at the foot of the mountains near Ashton
KWV Roodeberg relaunch Last Thursday, we attended a double event at KWV’s cellars in Paarl. The main feature was the relaunch of Roodeberg and then KWV’s new premium wine in the Roodeberg range – Doctor Charles Niehaus, named for the originator of Roodeberg, which was KWV’s export only flagship in the dark old days. It was held in great esteem because of its limited availability. In this country, you could only obtain it if you had a KWV allocation. In some years during the 80s, you could get it – with a Douglas Green St Augustine label, a fact given away by identical wording of the descriptions of the two wines in early Platter guides. See some pictures here. Lynne used to buy lots of it when she lived in London. We were given four vintages of Roodeberg to taste: The 1977 (made from cabernet sauvignon with some pinotage, tinta barocca and cinsaut, showed its age but still had some fruit), 1999 (dark, chewy with violets on the nose, good cherry fruit, with a long dark oak/marmite end), 2009 (some elastoplast aroma with violets & chocolate; full mulberry, red cherry & rhubarb fruit with chocolate on the end then mocha) and our favourite, the 2010 (soft gentle nose with well integrated chocolate & cherries. Full mouth with lovely sweet fruit: red cherries, mulberries, spice & dark chocolate, brandy end). Recommended retail price is R60.
After tasting these, we were introduced to the Dr Charles Niehaus red blend, which is 50% Shiraz, 40% Cabernet sauvignon and 10% Merlot. 9000 litres were made. It is a very soft, deep, elegant wine which has had 14 months in French & American oak. Cabernet flavour dominates, rather than Shiraz, with very little spice. It is deep and rich, worth drinking now or in a year or two. Flavour of very juicy plums with soft generous tannins: a good food wine. Expect to pay about R160.
A highlight of the tasting was the food, which was prepared by Andi Foulkes’ Dish Food & Social. The dishes, when spicy, did not overpower the wines and the standout for us, and for most others, was the delicious, rich small venison pies. An interesting aside is that Richard Rowe was asked about the fact that Roodeberg now has screw caps. He said that he preferred them because there is a much lower risk of a wine being tainted and because wines have been shown to last much better under screw cap. He told us about an experiment at Sydney University about 30 years ago in which four varietals, Sauvignon blanc, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Riesling were bottled under screw caps. When opened last year, they had all retained their colour and all bar the Gewürztraminer were remarkably fresh. The latter showed a little of the typical signs which that varietal shows with age, but probably compared with a five year old wine under cork. We were given a 2002 Flagstone Two Roads Chardonnay recently which had a screw cap. It was amazingly fresh and young for a 9 year old white wine and was quite delicious. People sometimes talk to us about the “romance” of removing a cork. We don’t drink romance and we prefer to have a wine which hits the glass in good condition. There is far more romance in pouring the wine into a good quality glass; far better than pulling a cork and pouring the wine into a horrible, thick rolled-rim “café de Paris” glass.
40 Years of Kaapse Vonkel Thursday evening saw us at the Vineyard Hotel again, this time for the 40th Anniversary dinner for Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel, pairing their excellent vintage Methode Cap Classique bubblies with food. We had quite a long chat with Cellarmaster Johan Malan who said that, originally, he had feared that it would not work to pair just Kaapse Vonkels with the food but, having done a pre-tasting, he was sure that people would enjoy the matches. We were welcomed by a glass of the refreshing 2009 with its fine mousse, bready nose and mouth full of limes, lemon, grapefruit, marzipan and earth notes. Pictures here. The starter of Simonsig cured Norwegian (firm and slightly sweet) salmon, cucumber spaghetti and oyster beignets with an unusual sweet vanilla vermouth sauce on the side was delicious and, later, Chef Alex Doherty, was generous enough to tell us how he made the salmon, which was in the style of a gravadlax and had been steeped in spices, salt and sugar and Simonsig bubbly for two days. We drank the 2005 with this. A good vintage made of 55% Chardonnay, 42% Pinot Noir and 3% Pinot Meunier, and matured on the lees for 6 years, this recently degorged wine shows lovely bone dry, almost sauvage character, which makes it perfect for drinking with food. Its age and maturity showed very well indeed, but it was fresh and full of citrus fruit flavours.
The main course was probably one of the best dishes Lynne has ever had at the Vineyard and perhaps one of the best she has had in Cape Town (lots of diners agreed with this). Tender orange glazed duck breast served on a wild mushroom and goats’ cheese risotto, with a Kaapse Vonkel foam and a herb salad containing lots of chervil. Poor John donated Lynne his mushroom risotto but enjoyed the duck. This was an absolutely perfect match for the wonderful Kaapse Vonkel 1999. The very complex nose had brioche, apricots and oloroso, vanilla and cashew nuts. Having been on the lees for more than 10 years and also recently degorged, it has very long lasting clean lime and other citrus notes, with white peaches and a buttery lees end. The wine comprises 53% chardonnay, 39% Pinot Noir, 4% Pinot Meunier and a surprising 4% pinotage which must account for some of the wonderful flavour. Dessert was an old fashioned apple and pear trifle in a glass, sadly, for our taste, made with jelly – we prefer it without - and this was served with a magnum of the 2002 Kaapse Vonkel. The dessert was very creamy and rich and this could have overcome a lesser wine but it stood up to the cream and sweetness. It is full of marmalade and honey and lime sweetness, with brioche lees, perfume and apricots, while still being crisp and appley.
Sadly this was the last of the excellent series of food and wine pairing dinners at the Vineyard until next year but you must not miss their Rosé and Bubbly festival on Sunday 27th November….
Basking at Backsberg Sunday saw us at Backsberg to celebrate the 50th birthday of a friend from Portugal. Everyone was worried that the Saturday’s rain would continue, but it was a perfect day and we were able to enjoy a leisurely feast in the garden under the pale green spring oaks. Backsberg do a spit lamb lunch, starting with spanakopita and a tomato concasse which are served at the table, then you go inside and help yourself to an amazing array of vegetables and salads including crisp duck fat potatoes and then back outside to the spit, where you can choose lamb cooked to perfection in the style you like it, well done, medium, pink or very underdone. Lovely gravy is available. Dessert, also served at the table was a sticky chocolate roulade with ice cream and we drank (at our host’s gracious expense) some of Backsberg’s very best wines, chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc and the excellent Family Reserve Red Blend, which has rich fruit flavours and soft tannins. It’s a lovely way to spend a Sunday lunchtime in the country. If the weather is inclement, you can eat inside in the restaurant. Sunset over Sea Point We then went to friends who have one of the best views in Sea Point as they overlook Sunset beach with an unencumbered sea view. They wanted to try out experimental pork done three different ways on us and we had a lovely time trying out their three adventurous recipes and pairing them with some good wine choices.
THIS YEAR’S VINTAGE AT BUITENVERWACHTING On Monday night, we were back at Buitenverwachting for one of their really great annual occasions, their 2011 Vintage Tasting where they showcase the wines they have released this year. They match the wines with lovely canapés made in the restaurant. This list might give you some help if you are doing a function for Christmas as some of the matches were amazing. Their classic Buiten Blanc with mussels and linguine in a wine sauce was very good; the, as yet unlabelled, superb and complex Chenin Semillon with rich pastry vol au vents filled with chicken cream and fresh porcini – excellent but rather messy; the Blanc de Noir with a strawberry gazpacho with raw salmon tartar – we question whether tomato and strawberry flavours mix, but the salmon and strawberry went very well with the wine; Sauvignon Blanc with ricotta filled tortellini, a tomato sauce and artichoke; Hussey’s Vlei Sauvignon Blanc had the best match of the evening - a huge peeled prawn covered in chilli, barbequed on a grill then put into a yuzu (very sour Japanese lime juice) and celery sorbet - sheer BLISS; the red blend Meifort with a tender piece of fillet covered with a disk of ham jelly, which we thought was a little salty and robust. The deep and delicious Cabernet Franc had no food match and cried out for one; the seriously delicious top of the range red blend Christine with fillet of springbok with chocolate port and bacon sauce was another amazing match.
Out on the terrace, we tasted the glorious “G” Gewürztraminer, the marvelous white Maximus Semillon/Sauvignon blend and Batavia, an experimental blend of Riesling, oaked Viognier and Chenin blanc.
Back inside for the 1769 natural sweet (made from oaked Muscat de Frontignan); full of honey, heady and heavy and sophisticated in depth, this was served with cheese and figs but we didn’t get any as we tasted this long after the food was served. There was also the wonderful grappa which we didn’t taste this time, because it was late and we were being cautious. We have to add here that, at tastings like this, Lynne drinks a little of each wine. John, the driver, tastes, spits, evaluates and moves on.
It was a really superb evening, if a little spoilt by some guests who smoked out on the verandah. The stink of second hand smoke came through into the restaurant and was most unpleasant for the majority of the guests. People do need to know that, if you attend a formal wine tasting, you must not smoke anywhere near the tasting nor should you wear heavy perfume. Both can seriously interfere with people who are tasting wine seriously. The smell of the smoke has a bad effect on the results and does the farm showing the wines no favours. It can also seriously jeopardize a restaurant, which can be fined for allowing smoking, which would be tragic.
Platter Guide 2012 launch On Monday evening, we attended the launch of the 2012 edition of the 2012 Platter Guide to South African Wines. This is the 32nd edition of this authoritative guide to the wines produced in this country. The first edition (we have every one) has 119 pages and weighs 108 grams. The 2012 edition has 618 pages and weighs 469 grams. A bit of useless knowledge, which gives an idea of the extent to which the industry has grown since 1980. Platter’s 2012 print version will be available from the second half of November at selected bookstores and retailers country-wide. The recommended retail price is R159.95. The book can also be ordered online from Kalahari.com (www.kalahari.com) and SA Wines Online (www.sawinesonline.co.uk). The web-based version of the guide launched on the 8th November at www.wineonaplatter.com, with the iPhone App®, in conjunction with Wine-Oh!, available for download from www.wine-oh.info in the next few weeks, and a version for Android smartphones, a mobi site and an e-book to follow. The book is an ideal Christmas gift for the wine lover. The highlight of the launch for many of us was being able to taste the Five Star wines, of which there are 45. Of these, three producers – Boekenhoutskloof, Mullineux Family and Nederburg – each earned three five star ratings and one – Graham Beck Wines – followed closely with two. Eleven wineries received five star ratings for the first time: Badsberg, Colmant, Diemersfontein, Fable, Flagstone, Glenelly, Miles Mossop, Mont Destin, Oak Valley, Vins d’Orrance and Warwick. Boekenhoutskloof is the Winery of the Year and The Wolftrap White 2010, their blend of Viognier, Chenin blanc and Grenache blanc is the Superquaffer of the year. You can see the detailed press release with the list of all the five star wines here. We have to mention the Mullineux white blend of chenin blanc with dashes of Clairette Blanche and Viognier – dry as a bone it tastes of liquid honey. Very deserving of its 5 stars. Sonia Cabano gave us a copy of her new book “Relish – Easy sauces, seasonings and condiments to make at home” recently and we have to share one of the recipes for pasta with you. We haven’t made it yet but will definitely… soon. We quote: Sweet Pepper, Basil and Cream Sauce
For 300-450g dried pasta, enough to serve 4-6 people, use:
2 medium onions, finely chopped – 2T (30 ml butter – 1 T (15 ml) olive oil – 2 each medium green, red and yellow sweet peppers, chopped small – salt and ground black pepper to taste – 150 ml double cream – 6 large basil leaves, finely chopped – 2 T (30 ml) chopped fresh parsley – 4 T (60 ml) freshly grated parmesan
1. Cook the onions in the butter and olive oil until golden and soft.
2. Add the diced peppers and cook until tender, about 15-20 minutes. Stir occasionally. Season very well.
3. Add the cream, turn the heat high and allow to bubble until the cream as reduced by half.
4. Add the basil, parsley and Parmesan and toss with hot cooked pasta. Serve immediately.
The Eat In DSTV Food Network Produce Awards aim to acknowledge and celebrate outstanding, independent South African producers for putting South Africa on the international food map with their integrity, care for the environment, passion and innovation. Of course, an outlet is a vital connection between the producers and public, which is why the awards also recognise the stores, shops and market for their vital role in the process. If you think that the bread from your local bakery or fresh veggies from your Saturday morning market is worthy of some praise, now's your chance to speak up! We are very proud of being winners in a few previous years. Nominate your favourite producer, product or outlet in this year's Eat In DSTV Food Network Produce Awards. Read more about it and submit your nomination at http://www.eat-in.co.za/Awards/Nominations Our products. New this week are two additions to the range of Protea Hill Farm balsamic reductions, which are doing so well: Green pepper and Lavender. The Green pepper should go well with oysters or roast chicken and the Lavender with lamb. We had a busy day yesterday, collecting replenishments from suppliers. The popular Prego sauce, which was sold out last week, will be available from us at Cavendish tomorrow and at the Biscuit Mill on Saturday. Goose fat is still a bit scarce, but we should have it soon and we have to recommend that you use duck fat instead.
We have a lot of fun putting MENU together each week and, of course, doing the things we write about, but making it possible for you to enjoy rare and wonderful gourmet foods is what drives our business. We stock a good range of ingredients and delicious ready-made gourmet foods. So, please have a look at our Product List and see what you need. You can contact us by email or phone, or through our website. We can send your requirements to you anywhere in South Africa. Our market activities You will find us at The Place at Cavendish tomorrow, Friday, 11th November from 10h00 to 17h00. Our next date at Long Beach for November is Friday, 18th November. We will be at The Place at Cavendish again on Friday 25th November. We will be at the Old Biscuit Mill’s brilliant, exciting and atmospheric Neighbourgoods Market, as always, this Saturday between 09h00 and 14h00. The Neighbourgoods market has been rearranged. The tables have been arranged at right angles to the way we are all used to, with all the aisles running straight down from the entrance, in order to improve the flow of visitors through the market. Lynne will be wearing a gold plastic crown in order to help you find us. There is a huge variety of interesting things to occupy your leisure time here in the Western Cape. To help you choose an event to visit, we have taken our list of Interesting Food and Wine Events online. All the events are listed in date order and we already have exciting events to entertain you through into the new year. Click here to access the list. You will need to be connected to the internet. Many of the specials in our list of restaurant special offers are continuing through summer and we have been told that there will be some new summer menus soon. Click here to access it. These Specials have been sent to us by the restaurants or their PR agencies. We have not personally tried all of them and their listing here should not always be taken as a recommendation from ourselves. If they don’t update us, we can’t be responsible for any inaccuracies in the list. When we have tried it, we’ve put in our observations. We have cut out the flowery adjectives etc. we’ve been sent, to give you the essentials. Click on the name to access the relevant website. All communication should be with the individual restaurants.
10th November 2011
Phones: +27 21 439 3169 / 083 229 1172 / 083 656 4169
Postal address: 60 Arthurs Rd, Sea Point 8005
Our Adamastor & Bacchus© tailor-made Wine, Food and Photo tours take small groups (up to 6) to specialist wine producers who make the best of South Africa’s wines. Have fun while you learn more about wine and how it is made! Tours can be conducted in English, German, Norwegian or Dutch flavoured Afrikaans. Recommendations of products and outside events are not solicited or charged for, and are made at the authors’ pleasure. All photographs, recipes and text used in these newsletters are ©John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus. Our restaurant reviews are usually unsolicited. We prefer to pay for our meals and not be paid in any way by anyone. Whether we are invited or go independently, we don’t feel bad if we say we didn’t like it. Honesty is indeed our best policy. While every effort is made to avoid mistakes, we are human and they do creep in occasionally, for which we apologise. Our Avast! ® Anti-Virus software is updated at least daily and our system is scanned continually for viruses.
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Janet Withington's delicious food 
