Monday, September 30, 2019

MENU's UK Adventure 3. The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo

One of the main reasons we came to Scotland, and Edinburgh in particular, besides family connections, 
was to treat John to the famous Edinburgh Military Tattoo, held every August (2nd to 24th August 2019),
during the Edinburgh festival
John, seen here, was a Piper in his school band, St Andrews College in Grahamstown

and we both love the sound of a pipe band. This delivers them en masse
Lynne has been twice in the past and it is one of those very special memorable events
You book tickets on line and we managed to get a night in the last week
The walk up to the castle from our AirBnB apartment was a fairly easy 20 minute stroll uphill,
through this beautiful ancient city that has managed to preserve so much


This is where you become part of the gathering crowd all going the same way
It was the first night that it didn't rain (if it does, the show goes on; the Scots are used to rain),
but we came very warmly dressed, which was very necessary later as there was a cutting wind from the North
Lynne brought a polar fleece cap and a plaid scarf just to be sure,
and we both had plastic ponchos just in case the rain returned

Gazing around at the stands, the international crowds and the castle before we took our fairly lofty seats

It begins at 9 pm and in August it is still light at this time

A view of the castle ramparts where later, at the end of concert, the lone piper plays

On the right is the covered supporting orchestra 'pit' and on the left, a stand where the choirs sit
The stadium is not permanent;
they put it up every year and, during the tattoo, it seats just over 217 000 people who come from all over the world
It has sold out in advance for the last decade
30% of the audience are from Scotland and 35% from the rest of the United Kingdom
The remaining 35% of the audience consists of 70 000 visitors from overseas
Brigadier (Retired) David Allfrey MBE  has been the Producer since 2011

A wonderful view of the City and the surrounding hills. Note, no high rise buildings in this historic view
The gathering clouds were a bit worrisome, but they did not come close to us

and scanning the flags of many nations, there was our South African flag

This year the title of the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo was
"Kaleidoscope 2019 Is A Celebration Of Glorious Symmetries, An Experience For The Senses"

Here, giving the salute after the Anthem is an Admiral (apologies, but the programme didn't give his name

Then we heard the skirl of the pipes and on came the famous band of the Royal Regiment of Scotland in Edinburgh Castle
with the band of the Scots Guards

The conductor

The fanfare by the trumpeters of the Scots Guards

and the cannon roared a welcome

Introducing the Kaleidoscope of Colour were Scots lassies with light sabres
that interacted with the lights around the base of the seats to produce a rainbow

and then the massed pipe bands entered:
The Royal Regiment of Scotland, the Scots Guards and the Irish Guards and the other contributing pipe bands
It was a wall of harmonious music that began and then filled the whole arena;
an overwhelmingly emotional sensation if you have Scottish ancestry
Pure grandeur, tradition and absolutely magic. It sets your feet tapping and your heart dancing
See our YouTube video here

It's worth a look to see the immaculate marching and drilling and the dancers
A note from a former piper; listen to the drums. A pipe band is never complete without them
Each pipe tune has a corresponding drum tune and it is the partnership between pipes and drums which makes it all work
The rest of the programme then began and we show photos of only a selection of the performers

and on and on they come to fill the whole arena

Not just a hundred pipers, about 150, with brass and drums

From Nigeria, soldiers, dancers and singers

with the Nigerian military band

The German Army band with their very special drummer

and dancers wearing lederhosen and dirndls

From the Caribbean, a voodoo dancer on stilts swirled and twisted with graphics projected onto the ground

Limbo under a fire pole

The Caribbean nations' Steel band made joyous noise and even played some Bob Marley

Accompanied by butterfly dancers

From France, the French military Garde Republicaine Band played a selection of very popular music including one tune by Michel Legrand which had the audiences humming along, and some modern pop

and then Jacques Offenbach's CanCan from Orpheus in the Underworld

with dancers performing with gusto and managing to fill the huge area with sound and colour

Next, some graceful Scottish dancers accompanied by the pipers of the Scots Guards, the Royal Scots and the Irish Guards

Musicians from the bands of the Royal Regiment of Scotland and the Scots Guards
accompanied a choir of school children singing famous Scottish songs and we could sing along

A traditional band of  Chinese from North America called the  Tian Guo  Marching Band,
wearing traditional clothing with their dancers. In English, they are known as the Divine Land marching band

Whirling in formation

New Zealand dancers in blue plaid

Scottish traditional fiddlers being joined on stage by more bands

Those girls from New Zealand

were accompanied by the New Zealand Military band who played Pack Up Your Troubles and You'll Never Walk Alone
Some of the band members even danced a bit of a jig while playing

and they did the Haka for us, to the great amusement of the crowd and to loud cheers

The massed bands returned and filled the arena, cross marching back and forth
And then the singing of the National Anthem and the emotional finish with Auld Lang Syne
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=

Looks like chaos and is not, counter-marching, so neat and tidy and so overwhelming in sound and joy
They even played "This is the Greatest Show" amongst other tunes. British and Scottish Pomp and Circumstance at its best

The fireworks began

and became more spectacular

and went on and on delighting the audience

while the massed bands stood to attention below

After which, we had the lone piper, but he was really difficult to focus on with all the smoke and noise and light

And, finally, the bands marched back to barracks
and the very orderly crowd left the arena
No rubbish was left anywhere that we saw

Two video clips of the massed bands and dancers 
which John took with his camera can be seen at
https://youtu.be/vWwDTB6hWZg
and
 https://youtu.be/pcJGdTgMC8M
All content ©  John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus

MENU's UK Adventure 2. Days and nights in Edinburgh

A day in beautiful Edinburgh with soft weather (rain) on and off all day

It started to rain, quite hard, while we were shopping in Prince's Street, so we bought ponchos,
expecting to need them at the Tattoo that evening but, as soon as we opened one the rain stopped, never to return
- it’s called Sod’s Law

The Walter Scott monument with David Livingstone guarding it. Maybe he should give it a wash

Sir Walter Scott wearing an unaccustomed hat

The Ross Fountain below Edinburgh Castle
Lynne, whose family is part of the Ross clan, was keen to see this, as it has recently been restored

A rain-washed Peace rose in the gardens

Another view of Edinburgh Castle

The graveyards at the end of the park

Reminds one slightly of Harry Potter and Hogwarts

This is the road we took to walk up to the castle and into town
If you are an Ian Rankin fan, one of the murders Rebus investigated took place near here in the NCP car park...

No climbing that sheer rock face in a hurry

Festival time, so there were many buskers

and all sorts of strange acts in the streets as part of the Fringe. You have to avoid getting tied up with them 

If you want to buy tickets to any of the Festival shows, this is where you come

During the one month festival, Edinburgh turns into a major tourist city

Lots of interesting buildings, lots of turrets

and great looking pubs

Down the bottom of this hill (and Edinburgh is built on several) is the office of the Tattoo
where you change your prepaid online voucher for real tickets. It is very near the railway station

"It's that way and NO WAY am I climbing back up these stairs...." (Before FitBit)

Greyfriars Kirk

Lynne's Great Grandfather was a minister in both Glasgow and Edinburgh

Lovely stained glass, some from the preRaphaelite movement

The tombs and catacombs

Scottish thistles are everywhere

and fat bees gathering pollen and nectar

Greyfriars Bobby, a West Highland terrier who accompanied his master's body to its grave in Greyfriars Churchyard in 1858

He guarded the grave until he died in 1872. Read the full, touching story here

There is a similar story about the Faithful Hound at Mulderbosch in Stellenbosch

His statue is in a nearby street and people think it’s good luck to touch his nose

A child touches Bobby's statue's nose for good luck

Queen Victoria Street, reputed to be the street on which J.K. Rowling based Digon Alley. There is a Harry Potter magic shop here

It twists and turns and has a few interesting shops

We were taken with The Whisky Shop which sells a huge range of whiskies, not only Scotch, and we even saw some bottles of Bain's from Wellington. They sell small bottles, decanted from these casks. Don't ask the price, good single malts are less expensive at home. A 30 year old Macallan in the shop was £3950 per bottle, but that is an extreme example. It costs less at the distillery, but that is part of a later story
Sadly, we were not offered a taste of anything

The Little Magician shop; a mecca for Harry Potter devotees

You could buy a wand, had you quite a lot of money

We were recommended this pub in the Grass Market, The Last Drop, and assumed that the name meant that you don't leave anything in your glass

and enjoyed a pint of this for John and a half of Tennent's Lager for Lynne

and then saw the real, macabre, meaning of the name

It was the site of the Gallows, where heretics, thieves and murderers spent their last moments
and had their last meal before they experienced The Last Drop

It is one of the pubs in the Grass Market, an elongated, historic square below the Castle

That evening we met up with Fiona and Clare, two of Lynne’s old friends from London days, at Zizzi's, an Italian restaurant, and lots of catching up was done over a bottle of Sicilian white wine

with large Mozzarella, artichoke, prosciutto, rocket, pesto and olive pizzas

Lynne could not resist the crayfish risotto
Crayfish are a fresh water pest in the UK and rather small, but have good flavour
It was made with orzo, a pasta shaped like rice

It was a rather ordinary Sicilian chardonnay at £20, a bit flat

We had to finish up by 8.30 as they close at 9. North of the border, people seem to retire quite early

Lots of good chat

and, as we walked home, we could hear that night's Tattoo ending

And see the fireworks from outside our AirBnB

We were very sad to leave the next morning; we should have stayed longer in this beautiful city
And we won’t need an excuse to return