Then a visit to the Leeu Estate to see Chris Mullineux and
taste the Mullineux and Leeu family wines,
kindly arranged for us by Nicolette
Waterford
The grounds are quite magnificent, as are the views
The entrance to the winery
These sheep may safely graze on the edge of the dam, they
are made of concrete!
Chris Mullineux is the viticulturist on their farm
Roundstone, just outside Riebeek Casteel in the Swartland, where they have
focused mainly on Chenin and Shiraz, but are now trying out grapes more suited
to a hotter climate due to global warming. They believe in non-interventionist
farming. They have won many, many accolades, high scores from esteemed local
and overseas judges and writers, and many awards for their wine, achieving
several pinnacles like Platters Winery of the Year twice; Top Performing Winery
of the year twice, and also Shiraz of the Year and Vin de Paille of the Year in
2020. He told us the lovely story of how he and his wife Andrea got together
and, of course, it was while they were both doing overseas stages in France
during their wine training. Andrea is originally from the USA
Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines’ two portfolios have two
distinct stories to tell. The Swartland portfolio encompasses the Signature,
Terroir Specific and Kloof Street ranges and the Leeu Passant range is made in
Franschhoek from grapes sourced from a variety of regions outside the Swartland
Andrea poses briefly for John in a very, very busy harvest
cellar
The farm and winery is full of quirky art and sculptures, we
especially like this dog made from old metal pieces
Time to begin the tasting. There would be seven wines to
taste
We began with the 2019 Mullineux Old Vines White, a blend of
one parcel of 41 year-old Chenin and a parcel of 11 year old Grenache Blanc,
and 5 year old Maccabeo and Verdelho, on the stony Schist based soils of the
Kasteelberg; two parcels of 40-65 year-old dry land bush vine Chenin, one
parcel of 44 year old Clairette Blanche, a 60 year old heritage Semillon Gris
vineyard grown on the decomposed Granite of the Paardeberg, and a parcel of 21
year-old Viognier on the iron-rich soils of the rolling hills west of
Malmesbury. So we expected lots of complexity and indeed we found it. The wine
has a beautiful texture; it is crisp and fruity, with layers of flavours from
the different terroirs. Very satisfying and a great introduction to the range
Then two wines that really do show the affect of different
terroirs. The Mullineux Quartz 2019 Lieliefontein Chenin Blanc from a single
vineyard of 38 year old vines planted in a quartz kloof on the Kasteelberg.
Yeasty, biscuity from the natural fermentation on the lees, and then malolactic
fermentation. The wine has a hint of gun flint and a faint perfume of summer. Sweet
yellow stone fruit with long crisp elegant lime flavours on the end
Then the Mullineux 2019 Granite Chenin Blanc from 43 year
old parcel of sustainably and dry farmed bush vines planted in the decomposed
Granite soils of the Paardeberg, which is a known excellent area for Chenin,
with its flinty decomposed granite soils. It goes through the same fermentation
as the Quartz. Smoky gun-flint on the nose, the wine has good rounded flavours
of quince, cooked apple, apricots and some lively acidity. Lynne could not stop
sipping, and saved her glass to continue tasting, to see how it developed. It
just got better
The Kloof Street Swartland Rouge, from their more affordable
range, is a blend of 44% Tinta Barocca, 44% Syrah, 7% Grenache, 4% Cinsault, 1%
Carignan. 25% whole bunches are added and the total maceration is for 4 to 6
weeks then drained and pressed to barrel for malolactic fermentation. Perfumed
fruit, very approachable, with good raspberry notes. On the palate, licorice
and spice from the wood; the wine is full to bursting with dark berry fruit,
warmth, long flavours and some good chalky tannins, denoting that it may last
rather well and be good value
The Mullineux 2017 Swartland Wine of Origin Syrah is from
different vineyards of varied soil types, all Swartland and from vines aged
between 22 and 30 years. 90% added as whole bunches to tank and the remainder
is added destemmed. Naturally fermented, then pressed to barrel for malolactic
fermentation and maturation. Then bottled unfiltered and unfined. This requires
very careful winemaking and it shows. Perfumed, with a whiff of smoke, there
good dark berry fruit and some spice. On the palate, velvety tannins, good
bright mulberry and other dark berry fruit, followed by some soft chalk and
long flavours. A definite food wine
The interesting back label from the Kloof Street Rouge
Next three different Mullineux Syrahs:
Mullineux Granite Syrah 2018 from Jakkalsfontein in the
Paardeberg. The last year of the drought. 24 year old dryland bush vines grown
in the decomposed granite, Whole bunches were put into open top 500L French oak
barrels and foot stomped to release some juice. 25% new oak, followed by 9
months in 2nd fill foudres. On the nose, spice, good wood, and lots of aromatic
dark berry fruit. Rounded palate of sweet berry fruit, a hint of mint, complex
and layered with tight tannins. Made to last, but drinking well now
The Mullineux 2018 Schist Roundstone Syrah from their farm
in the Kasteelberg, 21 year old vines planted in the stony Shale and Schist
soils. Spice, good wood and a hint of violet on the nose. Red berries,
mulberries, tight tannins and some chalk, then raspberries appear & more
chalk and licorice on the end. Intriguing. Similar wine making to the Granite
and the Iron
The Mullineux 2018 Iron Syrah is from the Hughes family
farm, 19 year old organically farmed dryland bush vines on the rolling, iron-rich
soils west of Malmesbury. This has excellent fruit on the nose, richness and
elegance on both nose and palate, spicy red and black fruit, crisp chalky
tannins and licorice wood on the end
A most impressive tasting, so enjoyable and educational. A
real learning experience to see the different terroirs affect on the wines and
the different wine-making techniques. Thank you so much Chris and Andrea and
Leeu Estates
