Tuesday, May 30, 2023

The 2023 Trophy Wine Show Judges' Feedback Session


This year's Feedback Session of the Trophy Wine Show, sponsored by Investec,
was held at the Lord Charles Hotel in Somerset West. The results will be announced on Monday, 8th of June
and there will be tastings open to the public
in Johannesburg on Wednesday, 14th June at the Sandton Centre
and in Cape Town on Wednesday, 21st June at the CTICC

We mingled with winemakers attending the Feedback and the judges,
who had just finished tasting and voting on the Trophies for this year

We were so pleased to see and speak to British judge Jancis Robinson MW
Her wine books and the Oxford Companion to Wine, which she edited,
helped us so much when we were studying for our Cape Wine Academy Wine Diplomas

Alex Mason-Gordon of Outsorceress Marketing with Judy Brower of Wine.co.za

Clive Torr talking to judge Benjamin Roffet

Having completed a stint as head sommelier at the Trianon Palace, Versailles, Benjamin has now set himself new challenges. He is heading up the team at the Hexagon, the new restaurant of the multi-starred chef Mathieu Pacaud. In this new setting, he is seeking a balance between his thirst for discovery and his desire to continue coming across an unknown wine first-hand. At bottom, the ultimate goal of this profession is to always go beyond what is already known

Andre Morgenthal of the Old Vines Project
talking to Bennie Howard CWM, Chair of the Institute of Cape Winemasters and Marketing manager at Meerendal

Each judge sits on two or more different panels
and they then give feedback about the quality of the nearly 700 wines tasted this year
It is in general; they do not know the brands of the wines, as they taste blind
We will all know what wines have been given Trophies and awards on Thursday, 8th June

Michael Fridjhon opened proceedings. This is the 22nd year of the Trophy Competition, now sponsored by Investec
He told us that tasting wine takes up more parts of your brain than most things -
observing the wine colour and viscosity, the aroma, the taste, the age, the sounds, if its bubbly - so it is tiring
But we love doing it

Renowned British wine writer and judge Jancis Robinson OBE, MW told us that she really enjoyed this tasting

She last tasted in this competition in 2003 and 2007 and found that things have hugely improved; the wines are more sophisticated, and we are reflecting trends seen elsewhere. She was seeing SA wines as more refreshing, refined and sophisticated. They tasted 71 wines and it was quite an assault on the senses. The golds picked had very different attributes and only one was in the new, refreshing style. She visited Cape Agulhas before the competition and tasted the newer style and was impressed. Chardonnay was a huge pleasure to judge. So beautiful, most are substantial. She hardly saw any signs of unresolved oak. Possibly, SA Chardonnay lacks the savour and subtlety of the best Burgundies, but they also lack the faults found in the rest of the world. Pinots are a work in progress; they will get there in the end, as long as we don’t heat up. There were many different styles in the Cabernets, which the world is producing better every year despite global warming. She is very happy to champion SA wines which she has done for many years

Anne Krebiehl MW

German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer and lecturer. She is the contributing editor for Austria, Alsace, Burgundy and England for US Wine Enthusiast and also writes for trade and consumer wine publications such as The World of Fine Wine, Decanter, The Buyer, Falstaff and Vinum. She said that she echoed what had been said. She tasted 32 Sauvignons Blanc and found translucent, fresh and bright wines. A proper cross section of what there is and at price points that sell well. Without exception, they were made correctly and this means that they are popular around the world. No faulty wines, lots of freshness. It is the most successful variety in the world with levels of purchase up but, here in SA, there is less and less vineyard acreage. She thinks that we should make not obvious, but subtle styles, forget fine wine quality. There was one unoaked gold. Add oak to Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon blends with oak; now we are talking. Alluring and exciting over the years, there are world class wines in this class. Niche whites were exciting, such as  Vermentino and Picpoul. She is pleased to see these grapes given a chance in the changing climate. They are used to sun and dryness. With Mediterranean varies like  Verdelho she is finding the future here exciting; they bring diversity and a have a lot to contribute. The Merlot category was challenging, lots of alcohol. And, boy, was the Pinotage hard work. She found that the beautiful and subtle, translucent and elegant style is the way to go. She was very pleased with the Cap Classique class. Lots to compute and celebrate and deliberate. She is so pleased with the style that it is intense, exciting and serious

J D Pretorius, winemaker at Warwick Estate, told us that the Chardonnay base is huge

Cabernet was well managed, especially in oaking, with very little oxidation. There were 30 entries. The Pinot Noir class entries were not in the same class as other wines
Michael Fridjhon commented that the show is discovering talent. Competition is tough with people who hold on to old glory while newer producers are taking their place. We must pay attention to the benchmarks of the industry and where the industry is going to, rather than where it has been

Benjamin Roffet has been the Head Sommelier at the Eiffel Tower restaurant Jules Verne since 2019

He says the future for our industry looks bright. The changes in the wine industry here are fast while in France they are slooow. We have wines with more personality. In the Chenin Class he found wines with salinity, minerality, purity of fruit and good expression. Bordeaux blends were challenging, with over-extraction, too much wood, but then some wines with personality were showing what it could become. Rose was a well-made style, but we do need more food-friendly roses which are spicier, fuller. Niche reds are a category to look at. Grenache was stunning. It is amazing to see how the SA wine industry is doing

Heidi Duminy CWM, Principal of the Cape Wine Academy, said that Cap Classique is responding,
 possibly there is growth in the sector;

there is hard evidence that Blanc de blanc Chardonnay styles are rising to the top. It became successful when it stopped trying to be Champagne. There is so much more to consider; wines are more confident and astute. There were 39 Cap Classiques entered and the various styles were judged together. Some were exquisite. Pinotage has so much diversity. Comparing the old school style and the new, which is instantly likeable with attractive sweet fruit. The old school style has bold tannins masking the character, with dominating oak

Cathy van Zyl MW said this is her fourth competition in 6 weeks!
She heads the panel of judges and said they were rigorous and did a good job

This is the best competition to judge because it is so rigorous. There are two fridges of Sauvignon Blanc in her home, catering to her and her husband Philip’s different tastes. He is editor of the Platter guide. The sauvignons were very impressive; highly commercial with a range of styles, so anyone can find something enjoyable. There was great complexity in the wooded Sauvignons; they were really superb. Roses should please stay away from the boiled sweets! Fresh fruit with berries please.  Chardonnay: there is a dramatic improvement in this class. Red wines offer too much fruit sweetness, need more of the savoury and umami now seen in some

Mandla Patson Mathonsi. Regional Sales Manager at Spier Wine Farm, has been a senior judge since 2019

The show is growing every year. Chenin is a strong class, as is the Dessert wine class. They managed to find a museum class wine which made them give it attention. It was clean and fresh; we should drink older wines. The Natural sweet and fortified wines are a strong class in SA, but he questions what we are doing the class is declining - so few were entered. There were two old wines that impressed, a Natural Sweet and a Noble Late Harvest. How do we grow that market? Restaurant business sommeliers need to introduce these styles to customers. But people are watching their sugar consumption... White blends and niche whites also need promoting. He was on the Merlot panel. The Cabernet franc class was very impressive. They gave everyone a chance and called for another bottle if one was not showing well

On day 3, they tasted 73 Cabernet Sauvignons. There was one gold in the Museum class, a 2018 which was clean and fresh

Winemaker Trizanne Barnard, who markets her own wine under her eponymous label
said that Chenin blanc was a pleasure to judge

It is a star variety and growers know what they are doing; winemakers are led by the grape and are respectful with oak. Bordeaux Blends need work to be done on blending; some wines are more restrained and not too showy, drinkable but not show-worthy. Niche reds; she wants to see more plantings. South Africa can be so strong in these categories. A Touriga/Sangiovese blend tasted was stunning

Gynore Hendricks • Associate Winemaker at Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines

This is her second year as a judge. She saw a vast improvement in quality. Shiraz was impressive, not many over ripe, over extracted wines, now many fine in style. He Bordeaux Blends class is now completely different from two years ago. You can recognise the winemakers and cultivars. Niche reds, particularly Cinsault and Malbec, impressed with the most exciting well made, well integrated and well managed wines

James Pietersen, Chief Executive Officer at Wine Cellar - Fine Wine Merchants & Cellarers
said that the overseas judges bring so much to the tasting and make us learn new things

The Shiraz panel is important to South Africa, it is the leading category in depth of quality; there are some very good wines entered. He does not think that producing light wines is a good idea. Do commit to the style or it becomes a mere vin rouge. Niche blend whites are very good, especially the Grenache Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc Semillon blends - we need to explain how to use these wines with food. Merlot was tough and hard work. Some winemakers try to make bubbly, but they need to understand where and how to do it. Pinotage was hard work; second tier wines came up with juicy fruit and sweetness. Tannins need balancing with sweetness, should be allowed to express themselves. It was a great, rigorous competition

Janice Fridjhon of Outsorceress Marketing is the head of the seamlessly efficient organising team

Alex Mason-Gordon is up there with Janice. She was supervising the crew behind the scenes
They pour all the wines blind

Angela Lloyd asking a question after the feedback session

"Low alcohol wines of 11/12% show less extraction and sugars are picking up. Were they balanced and reflecting the variety? Light wines need gravitas." James Pietersen said they are not filled with oak which would bring more character

When the feedback session was over, we were invited to have a buffet lunch and taste some wines in the foyer

A mixed selection to go with the food


Two of our favourites

One new to us and the classic 2021 Glenwood Grand Duc
 Chardonnay

Mushroom risotto

Rice suppli balls

Very good fresh fish in batter


Served with chips

A vegetarian option



Rice paper rolls

The competition results will be released at a lunch at Delaire Graff on Thursday 8th February

and there will be public tastings in Johannesburg and Cape Town on Details here: https://www.trophywineshow.co.za/diary-of-events/

All our stories can be seen in the Blog Archive near the top of the column on the right

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A Darling Day

A Darling day happened because our electricity was being turned off in the street from 9am to 2pm
to replace an electric pole and some wiring and do some tree trimming after a storm
As it was a Wednesday, we decided to decamp and visit Darling Cellars
Luckily, it was an absolutely clear and sparking day, if a bit chilly

The tasting room and parking area have had a bit of a spruce up and extension

We like the warm red wall and the fire was lit in the tasting room

You can taste any 8 wines for R40 from their extensive list and if you buy wine, you won't be charged the tasting fee
We love their reasonably priced wines, so we tasted the new vintages of wines we normally buy,
the specials on offer and a couple more
AND on Wednesday there is a pensioner's discount.

These are on special and the Cinsault and the Shiraz were so good we bought a case of each of them
and cases of Merlot, Chenin-Sauvignon Blanc blend, Sauvignon blanc and the Pyjama Bush Rosé 

A friend in the wine business told us that Cloof are doing some interesting wines
and, as it's just along the same dirt road, we decided to go and taste there
Sadly, all the staff were in a board meeting, so we couldn't taste and headed off to Darling

First, we made the obligatory stop at the Darling Wine Shop to see if Charles Withington was there
and, of course, he was in Cape Town that day
But we had a nice chat with Christelle, who runs the shop for Charles
Then it was off to the famous Darling butcher where we always buy their great meat and sausages.  

A quick call in at Ormonde to see the Bassons, but they were away too
So we headed off to the Darling Brewery for some lunch

Sparkling tanks reaching the ceiling

Lynne and friend Judi decided on the four beers they wanted to taste - you can choose from the whole list
and it costs R60 for four 100 ml glasses. Great beers. These are Judi's choice 

And these are Lynne's, she does like a bit of the black stuff
The winning "Beer of the Year" was excellent as, always, is the IPA. Her fourth was Rogue Pony IPA

and John had just a glass of the Rogue Pony

Fish and chips for Lynne

Hamburger and chips for the other two

Tiny, our Zimbabwean waitress, was so helpful and so friendly

We like that they advertise all the other businesses in the area who supply or support the Brewery

Some of Charles Withington's Darling Gin
And those crisps made from the beer-making spent grains did look interesting

We wanted a taste of sea air on the way back to Cape Town to blow away our cobwebs,
we have been vegetating at home for far too long
So we decided to stop at Ganzekraal to reminisce on our wedding here 20 years ago

Lynne was wondering how we seated 64 people on the Boma, but we did
And we had a local caterer do two lambs on the spit with all the trimmings, salads and starters and mains
We took a great deal of wine with us too
And we hired five of the cottages behind it for the weekend
It's a great place for a small beach wedding.

Spectacular unobstructed sea views from the Boma and a great background for wedding photos on the rocks.

And, as we left, we spotted this Dikkop (aka stone-curlew or spotted thick-knee (Burhinus capensis))
and its mate on the side of the road

It was a great way to escape the city on a chilly winters day. We need to do this more often

All our stories can be seen in the Blog Archive near the top of the column on the right

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Posted by MENU at 4:43 pm 0 comments
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