Friday, January 17, 2014

Main Ingredient's MENU - Between Heaven and Earth, Franschhoek Summer Wines Competition, RIP Francois Conradie, recipe- watermelon, onion, feta salad

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A tranquil Hemel en Aarde evening
In this week’s MENU:
* Between Heaven and Earth
* Competition: Win a pair of tickets for Franschhoek Summer Wines Festival
* RIP Francois Conradie
* This week’s recipe: watermelon, onion, feta salad
* Riesling Rocks, Starlight Classics and more events
Follow this link to see our Main Ingredient blogs, because to tell our whole story here would take too much space. Click on Bold words in the text of this edition to open links to pictures, blogs, pertinent websites or more information.
This week’s Product menu: Many of us enjoyed some wonderful things to eat and drink in the past month or so and we are hearing the word “diet” all round us. This immediately makes one think of salads. And many of us think “boring”! They don’t have to be, especially when one uses good, interesting oils and vinegars, like argan, hazelnut and walnut oils and some of the wonderfully flavourful vinegars we have. These include the delicious and ever-popular balsamic raspberry vinegar from Protea Hill Farm and the Spanish sherry vinegars. Have a look at them here and order now.
Between Heaven and Earth     It is wonderful to visit a wine route and to see such impressive improvement in the wines in their style and quality. The Hemel and Aarde has always produced good wines; they seem to stick with what they grow best. Now we are finding some that are truly exceptional, and there is a such marked rise in quality and enjoyment throughout at some farms. Terroir plays a huge part, but so do very careful and knowledgeable viticulture and wine making. They know and really understand their area, its climate and its assets and drawbacks and are maximising every worthwhile aspect to aid the production of these wines. Platter’s Red wine of the year, Windansea Pinot Noir, comes from Newton Johnson and the accolade is so deserved. We spent a lot of time with winemakers discussing what they are trying to do and learned a lot more about an area we know and love to visit.
They tell us that sales are up, despite the recession and the prolonged road building in the area. The dirt road between Hermanus and Caledon is being turned into a good tarred road, some parts will be dual carriageway, but it is taking a very long time. Now the developer seems to have stalled at a crucial point and no one is sure what will happen next. The current dirt road should not deter you however; we had a couple of very easy trips up and down it, and apparently it has not deterred other visitors over the holiday period.
After this last, wonderful wet winter, we all assumed that the Cape would have a great harvest but, sadly, with the recent rains and escalating heat and damp from wet earth, many farms, all over the Western Cape, are having to deal with severe mildew and late ripening. The start of the harvest will definitely be moving into February in many areas. All the grapes we have seen in the last couple of weeks are still very small and the reds had not yet started to colour.
We have not had a proper break for quite a while and we needed some country air. We have a friend here from Greece, who asked us to take him on a wine tour, so it seemed sensible to put the two together. We have wonderful friends who own a lovely country cottage in the Hemel and Aarde Valley who said we could borrow it again. Everything started to fall into place. A quick collection of some interesting and some traditional food, a little baking; we filled the car with food, things to imbibe and books to read, hats, suntan lotion, anti-mosquito deterrent and there we were for three mid-week days. The weather was perfect at a max of 34 degrees, there were nice cooling breezes, and lots of birds to watch.
On the way to the cottage, we called in at Paul Cluver which is exactly one hour from our front door. Royally welcomed to their tasting room, which is full of wonderful pieces of a huge ancient yellowwood tree from the farm, turned into the counter and tables. We tasted through their wonderful wines.
Then we made a quick stop at the Houwhoek Farm stall and purchased three delicious homemade pepper steak pies and some crisp, syrupy koeksisters for dessert that evening. This is always a good authentic place to stop for refreshment.
Onward down the sweeping pass to the Bot River valley and then a left turn approaching Hermanus, brought us into the valley where Heaven and Earth meet. We had a quick lunch on the cottage stoep, taking in the wonderful views of the mountains, consumed the pies and some refreshments, and were off up the valley to visit Ataraxia, owned by Kevin Grant and then went further up the valley to Creation to taste through their wines. Click here to continue to our story of the first day.
We prepared an authentic South African braai (barbecue) for our friend Terry, which we enjoyed on the stoep, drank a few more good wines and then had an early night in preparation for yet more sensational wines the next day.
Our first port of call was Bouchard Finlayson where we were so kindly taken through the wines on their list and a few more besides by Peter Finlayson, the winemaker. Onward to Newton Johnson just in time for lunch at the relatively new Restaurant where chef Eric Bulpitt, previously of the Roundhouse in Camps Bay, is earning a fine reputation for his innovative food. We then had a full and generous tasting of the Newton Johnson wines in the tasting room with Bevan Newton Johnson. Click here to read about this and the food.
We meant to go down to the sea that afternoon, hoping to see some whales, but were in need of some quiet contemplation and relaxation, so postponed it to the next day.
Next morning we called in at Sumaridge and did a tasting of their wines. Were we beginning to flag? Then it was off to the beachfront in Hermanus to scan the sea for sadly absent whales and spot some good seabirds. It isn't really a good time of the year to see whales. There should be more in March when they start returning from Antarctica.
Then we rather fancied some fish and chips, so we went off to a restaurant in the harbour which we have written about before: Harbour Rock. Wow, so not a purveyor of simple fish and chips now. The restaurant still looks used and faded and, speaking kindly, could perhaps be described as shabby chic, but they seem to want to attract a more moneyed crowd and their prices now seem more than we might pay in town. A plate of kingklip (on the orange Sassi list) was R170 and the menu focussed on Asian food and sushi, with a few fish and seafood dishes written on a blackboard. So sad, when they are right on the harbour and have access to lots of fresh fish and seafood. We decided it was no longer for us and headed off to another old favourite, Milkwood at Onrus where, for the small sum of R380 for three with coffees and tip, we got exactly what we fancied: a large portion of extra fresh hake – two in beer batter, one grilled, good chips and a bottle of a good local wine that matched perfectly  - Beaumont Raoul’s Jackal's River White. Click here for the complete story
Competition: Win a pair tickets for Franschhoek Summer Wines Festival     We have two pairs of tickets for this exciting wine festival being held at Leopards Leap Estate in Franschhoek on Saturday 8th February. Participating wineries include, amongst others, La Bri, Morena, Môreson, Anthonij Rupert Wines, Bellingham, Noble Hill, Leopard’s Leap, La Motte, Solms-Delta, Haute Cabrière, Grande Provence, Cape Chamonix and Boekenhoutskloof.
All you have to do is send us an email with your name, address and telephone contact details and answer this simple question. Your entry will go into a draw and two lucky winners will be drawn. Closing date will be next Thursday January 23rd and we will email the winners direct. They will be announced in MENU next week.
Question: Name the owner of the estate which will be the Festival venue.
During the previous weekend we were treated to dinner at La Bohème, our favourite casual bistro in Sea Point. See the photographs of the meal here.
RIP Francois Conradie     We were distressed this week to learn about the death of Muratie’s winemaker Francois Conradie, after a short battle with cancer. Rijk Melck, Muratie’s owner, wrote a moving tribute to him, which you can see here. Our condolences on the loss of a fine young man go to the Melck and Conradie families.
This week’s recipe is a salad Lynne made as our contribution to a New Year party. It is lovely and fresh and light and goes very well with most foods. We had it with delicious fresh poached salmon.
Small red onion – 30 ml lime juice - 1.5 kg ripe watermelon – 250g feta cheese - 100g black calamata olives - good handful of fresh mint - good handful of fresh flat leaf parsley - 4 T extra virgin olive oil - black pepper
Peel and thinly slice a small red onion. Marinade this in lime juice for at least one hour. Cut watermelon into roughly 2.5 cm cubes and remove all the pips.  Cut the feta cheese into similar sized cubes. Stone the olives and cut in half. Roughly chop the  mint and parsley. Combine everything in a large salad bowl and pour over the lime juice with the onion and  olive oil. Add a good grinding of black pepper. Mix gently but well. Rest in fridge for a couple of hours for the flavours to blend.
Riesling Rocks etc     A highlight this month will be the annual Riesling Rocks festival at Hartenberg on Saturday, January 25th. We have not been able to enjoy it properly in the past because we worked in the market on Saturdays, but this time we will be able to enjoy a relaxed day at Hartenberg and we look forward to seeing you there. Another, on March 1st, will be the annual Starlight Concert at Vergelegen. Find them and the others, including several Valentine’s Day ideas in our Events Calendar.
Buying from us On Line We have a lot of fun putting MENU together each week and, of course, doing the things we write about, but making it possible for you to enjoy rare and wonderful gourmet foods is what drives our business. We stock a good range of ingredients and delicious ready-made gourmet foods. You can contact us by email or phone, or through our on line shop. We can send your requirements to you anywhere in South Africa. Please do not pay until we have confirmed availability and invoiced you, then you pay and then we deliver or post. When you make an eft payment, make sure that it says who you are. Use the form on the website to email us your order. Click here to see our OnLine Shop.
There is a huge and rapidly growing variety of interesting things to occupy your leisure time here in the Western Cape. There are so many interesting things to do in our world of food and wine that we have made separate list for each month for which we have information. To see what’s happening in our world of food and wine (and a few other cultural events), visit our Events Calendar. All the events are listed in date order and we already have a large number of exciting events to entertain you right through the year. Events outside the Western Cape are listed here. 

Learn about wine and cooking We receive a lot of enquiries from people who want to learn more about wine. Cathy Marston and The Cape Wine Academy both run wine education courses, some very serious and others more geared to fun. You can see details of Cathy’s WSET and other courses here and here and the CWA courses here.

Chez Gourmet in Claremont has a programme of cooking classes. A calendar of their classes can be seen here. Pete Ayub, who made our very popular Prego sauce, runs evening cooking classes at Sense of Taste, his catering company in Maitland. We can recommend them very highly, having enjoyed his seafood course. Check his programme here. Nadège Lepoittevin-Dasse has cooking classes in Fish Hoek and conducts cooking tours to Normandy. You can see more details here. Emma Freddi runs the Enrica Rocca cooking courses at her home in Constantia. Brett Nussey’s Stir Crazy courses are now being run from Dish Food and Social’s premises in Main Road Observatory (opposite Groote Schuur hospital). Lynn Angel runs the Kitchen Angel cooking school and does private dinners at her home. She holds hands-on cooking classes for small groups on Monday and Wednesday evenings. She trained with Raymond Blanc, and has been a professional chef for 25 years. More info here
17th January 2014
Remember - if you can’t find something, we’ll do our best to get it for you, and, if you’re in Cape Town or elsewhere in the country, we can send it to you! Check our online shop for details and prices.
PS If a word or name is in bold type and underlined, click on it for more information
Phones: +27 21 439 3169 / 083 229 1172 / 083 656 4169
Postal address: 60 Arthurs Rd, Sea Point 8005
Our Adamastor & Bacchus© tailor-made Wine, Food and Photo tours take small groups (up to 6) to specialist wine producers who make the best of South Africa’s wines. Have fun while you learn more about wine and how it is made! Tours can be conducted in English, German, Norwegian and standard or Dutch flavoured Afrikaans.
Recommendations of products and outside events are not solicited or charged for, and are made at the authors’ pleasure. All photographs, recipes and text used in these newsletters and our blogs are © John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus. Our restaurant reviews are usually unsolicited. We prefer to pay for our meals and not be paid in any way by anyone. Whether we are invited or go independently, we don’t feel bad if we say we didn’t like it. Honesty is indeed our best policy. While every effort is made to avoid mistakes, we are human and they do creep in occasionally, for which we apologise. Our Avast! ® Anti-Virus software is updated at least daily and our system is scanned continually for viruses.
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RIP Francois Conradie - a tribute by Rijk Melck


In Memory of Francois Conradie
By Rijk Melck


Francois, our beloved winemaker and friend, tragically passed away on 13th January 2014 after a short battle with cancer. He leaves behind his lovely wife, Adel, and their two young children, JD and Annabel.

Francois joined us as winemaker at Muratie on 1st December 2005. What struck me from day one was his inimitable humility, honesty and ability to make time for anybody and everybody. Always with a smile on his face, no job was too big for Francois. He was always ready to give and reluctant to receive. In addition to making our wines, conducting our wine tastings and planting our vines, he also took it upon himself to look after my mother’s beautiful garden, assist her with her prized hanepoot and fig jam and do everything else that needed to be done. He sat in on all our monthly farm meetings, keeping his head while listening to all the varied opinions and suggestions. At Muratie we never saw Francois as just our winemaker; he was a member of the family.

Francois leaves behind a treasured legacy at Muratie. He saw the huge potential on the farm, accepted the challenges, and in his eight years with us, took Muratie from the dark ages of winemaking into the light. He has been an inspiration to us all, be it in the office, in our homes, in the vineyards or the cellar, imbuing Muratie with his own unique signature of modesty, kindness, passion, integrity and courage. Francois will also be sorely missed by our colleagues in the wine industry, our loyal customers and visitors to the farm.


As with all the special characters who came before during our estate’s rich history, Francois’s spirit remains woven into the very fabric of our farm, our minds and our hearts. We extend our deepest condolences to Adel, JD, Annabel and the family. Francois we will miss you more than you could ever know.

Hemel en Aarde tastings day three

Day three in the Hemel and Aarde valley started a little late after we had packed up the car and tidied up the cottage. Then we were off to Sumaridge for a tasting of their wines. The cellar also looks rather like the outside of a stone church and is situated next to one of their dams.
You can stand at the tasting counter, or sit, as we did, on the balcony or in the tasting room.  They charge for their tastings; R25 per person, refunded to you individually if you buy a bottle of wine
Savey (sort for Sauvignon Blanc) is the white tasting room cat and there is a large totally black one but he is not as approachable as Savey.
The gorgeous view from the balcony, over the dams towards Betty's Bay and Walker Bay
Cellarmaster/General Manager Gavin Patterson welcomed us, answered all our questions and told us a great deal about the farm and the wines and the terroir .
We liked his 2011 Chardonnay:  woody and buttery with marmalade on the nose, Nice fruit and deep and full on the palate with orange peel limes and lemon but perhaps a tad too much wood for us. The 2013 Rose has a pretty ‘pink’ nose and is made from 50% Merlot,  25% Cabernet Franc, 25% Malbec.  The Pinot Noir is made in the darker, more concentrated style  with dark fruit and lots of licorice and smoke -  lots of elegance but will need time. And the Epitome has expensive wood notes and savoury deep dark fruits and is made from an unusual blend of Pinotage and Shiraz
Then it was off to the seaside to try to see some whales and do some sea bird spotting
Hermanus in all her glory
Cormorants having a roost
Lunch at Milkwoods at Onrust.  It is on the edge of the Onrus River estuary
and right on the edge of the beach, which is great for surfing and has a lifeguard
We ordered and enjoyed a bottle of Beaumont Raoul's Jackal's River White and took the unfinished half home. The crisp acidity was a perfect foil for the fried food
Delicious, crisply beer battered hake, garlicky tartar sauce and crisp chips
Lynne had the grilled hake with a small salad and a hollandaise sauce with chips and a Becks alcohol free beer
The very reasonable bill before our tip was added.  They forgot to charge us for the wine (R100), but we EFT’d a payment in the evening, so our good waiter, Rodney, wouldn't have to pay for it.
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2014

Hemel en Aarde tastings day two

We started the day with a tasting at Bouchard Finlayson and were delighted that Peter Finlayson, the winemaker, could join us. He generously gave us a full tasting and added some very special reserve wines. 
This farm is producing superb wines. The Pinot Noirs are exceptional. The 2012 Hannibal, a six part marriage of French and Italian varietals, has beautiful fruit on the nose. Its soft fruit has long, long flavours with a good whiff of smoke. As Peter says this is in the style of a Super Tuscan and is built to last. Kaaimansgat 2013 Chardonnay has rich golden fruit, is well integrated and very satisfying. The Kaaimansgat 2010 Limited edition has such pretty fruit on the nose and lots of length and depths. Full of melons, vanilla, peach, sultana grapes it is lean and clean and very minerally. Very French in style with lovely chalky tannins. Wish we could drink this every day.. The wine Lynne scored 18 out of 20 is the Missionvale Chardonnay 2010 Clean and crisp, full of limes and lemon and also extremely French in style, a wine to quaff often, if you can afford to. Tasting room manager Danel Theron served us a lovely platter of olives, salami, bread and tapenade with the wines and gave us a lovely welcome.

Then it was off the Newton Johnson to have lunch at The Restaurant to sample chef Eric Bulpitt’s food and then to taste their wines.
Everything happens around the pass where the chef runs a very organised and silently industrious kitchen.
We were shown to a table with a superb view over the valley and looking through to Walker Bay
The menu is small but offers something for most people, including very good vegetarian options. They try to use only locally sourced ingredients and the chef does do some foraging.
The bread platter had small hot rolls and a very dense seed and fruit bread. This comes with a slightly sweet olive tapenade. Delicious and irresistible.
Two of us went for the slow braised tongue with carrot puree starter. Interestingly the tongue was a large wedge rather than the usual unsatisfying thin slices, and it softly fell apart. The carrot puree was inspired as the sweetness and smoothness complemented the rich meaty tongue. The mustard seed and nasturtium leaves added good piquancy. The rich jus was also much appreciated. It was paired with the Felicité Rosé
John’s starter was Tilapia, a freshwater fish accompanied by green apple slices, Amasi (local buttermilk) was the sauce and it was dotted with a mango atchar oil and strewn with micro greens and herbs. It was paired, very elegantly, with the 2012 Resonance white blend
The view across the valley on a hot day, so lots of heat haze
Lynne’s main course was loin of Pork accompanied by roasted pieces of cauliflower and dots of cauliflower puree. There were also blobs of apple puree and both went well with the freshly cooked pork. Squares of cooked apple and mustard, braised cherries and some lemon completed the taste profile of a good dish which was decorated with sorrel leaves. 
Our host Terry ordered the perfectly cooked hake encrusted with cashew nuts perched on a ragout of summer vegetables, dune spinach and samphire. Hope this is on again said Lynne, would love to try it. He enjoyed it with the 2012 Southend Chardonnay
John’s main was sliced aged sirloin with crisp roast baby potatoes, pickled turnips and bone marrow with a good beefy jus. The 2009 Full Stop Rock red blend was a brilliant partner. 
We also ordered a dish of the triple cooked French fries for the table and recommend everyone who goes to the Restaurant does the same. They were also outstanding. Perhaps a touch of truffle salt next time?
Chef Eric with his wife, Celeste, who supports him in the restaurant.

Bevan Newton Johnson then generously gave us an extended and in depth tasting of their wines in the tasting room in Spiegelau glasses. 
We were so impressed with the wines we tasted. Every single one is printed in red in Platter which means they all get at least four stars. We started with Resonance 2012. Lynne has written Scrumptious, BUY and scored it 19 out of 20. It is a blend of single vineyard Sauvignon Blanc grown on the farm blended with 15% Semillon. This is the blend that can bring South African wines international recognition. It is light floral notes and then full on the palate but finishes lean and elegant. Sadly no longer available on the farm but it is available out there in the trade so check out your local wine emporium. The next vintage should be bottled some time in April or May.
The Family Vineyard Chardonnay 2012 is butterscotch, cream and marmalade with vanilla notes. Elegant, buttery and long with nice gentle wooding. A food wine of note.
And then we tasted the three current 2012 Pinot Noirs, all single vineyard wines from below the cellar. And although they grow within just a couple of 100 meters of each other, the terroir dictates their difference. And different they are but tasting them all together it was hard to pin down which one was your best choice, as they change and grow in the glass all the time. Luckily, at the moment you can buy them together in threes at R600 a box of three from the farm.
Lynne absolutely loved the Windansea Pinot when she tasted it at the Platter awards, where it was voted the best red wine in Platter this year and she has coveted it ever since. The nose is pretty and fragrantly floral, and the fruit is reminiscent of raspberry and red current cordial. On the palate, it has lovely clean fresh Pinot fruit, which develops on your palate into something very special indeed, and it keeps on giving. And there is a note of sea salt. The Mrs M, full of maraschino cherries and full-on sweet fruit that is velvety in texture and the Block 6 is still restrained on the nose, but has great integrated fruit tempting one to drink. Sweet and sour fruit appear with nice dark licorice wood on the end.
Then we tasted the Family Vineyard Pinot Noir, which is an intriguing blend of all three, but a complete individual with a very complete nose and it is a classic. You probably need to go to the farm to taste these while there is still stock. Do take your wallet with you, you will need it. We had an expensive visit if it is any comfort.
Thank you Bevan and their lovely tasting room manager, Lisa. Here are the three in a row
 © John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2014

Hemel en Aarde tastings day one

Between Heaven and Earth
It is wonderful to visit a wine route and to see such impressive improvement in the wines in their style and quality.  The Hemel and Aarde has always produced good wines, they seem to stick with what they grow best and now we are finding some that are truly exceptional , and there is  a such marked rise in quality and enjoyment throughout at some farms.  Terroir plays a huge part but so does very careful and knowledgeable viticulture and wine making . They know and really understand their area, its climate and its assets and drawbacks and are maximising every worthwhile aspect to aid the production of these wines.   Platter’s Red wine of the year comes from Newton Johnson and it is so deserved.  We spent a lot of time with winemakers discussing what they are trying to do and learnt a lot more about an area we know and love to visit.
They tell us that sales up, despite the recession and the prolonged  road building in the area.  The dirt road between Hermanus and Caledon is being turned into a good tarred road, some parts will be dual carriageway but it is taking a very long time. Now the developer seems to have stalled at a crucial point and no one is sure what will happen next. The current dirt road should not deter you however,  we had a couple of very easy trips up and down it, and apparently it has not deterred other visitors over the holiday period.  
After this last wonderful wet winter we all assumed the Cape would have a great harvest  but sadly with the recent rains and escalating heat and damp from wet earth, many farms, in many areas  are having to deal with severe mildew and late ripening.  Harvest will definitely be moving into February in many areas.  All the grapes we have seen in the last couple of weeks are still very small and the reds had not yet started to colour.
Our first visit was to Ataraxia  to taste the wines made by Kevin Grant. The Greek church-inspired tasting room is positioned high up on a hill overlooking the valley and facing towards Caledon
with Philippe Starck furniture and abstract art in the interior
and windows which give wonderful views of the valley
His Sauvignon Blanc is exactly the style we love to drink, crisp and full of minerality, full of green notes without any tropical flavours.  We tasted the newly released 2013 and were not disappointed, it is another stunner.  New on his list is a lovely full, wooded citrussy and buttery 2013 chardonnay, extremely easy to drink but with lots of class and length.  His usual mystery blend of Southern French varietals, Serenity  2009 blew us away and Lynne had to come home with a case of it. It has cinnamon on brown sugar on raspberries on the nose and the wine is jam packed  full of mulberries, raspberries, red and black cherries and leads to a little espresso and some chalky tannins. Soft and delicious on the palate this will last for ages.
Ataraxia vineyards
and another view of the tasting lounge
 Elmarie Pretorius, who runs the Ataraxia tasting room with informed charm


Next we were off up the valley to Creation, a farm we visit quite often.  
The wines were ably shown to us by Karlé in appropriate Riedel glasses and this does make a difference
This time we really liked their 2012 Viognier full of apricots and peaches with floral notes and some fresh crisp acidity with a little salt to finish. We tasted two Pinot Noirs and found the 2011 has much riper fruit on the nose with a sweet and sour taste while the Reserve has liquorice, violets and incense on the nose with strawberry and raspberry while the palate shows chewy tannins and lots of licorice with cherries and raspberries. Definitely a food wine. Their Bordeaux Blend is huge and we particularly liked the soft sweet fruit of the Syrah/Grenache  full of blackcurrants, cinnamon, liquorice and cloves. It has lots of depth and is delicious. 
Philip, the friendly and helpful tasting room manager
The tasting room is also a restaurant and you can do all sorts of food and wine pairings
and then we went home for a braai
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2013