Thursday, June 26, 2014

Kaapzicht celebrates 30 years with a special dinner

Kaapzicht – Celebrating 30 years of Winemaking
Friday was another of those days with two events; luckily the timing didn’t clash and we wouldn’t have missed the Kaapzicht Celebration in Bottelary for all the tea in China. We got to know the Steytler family when we were studying wine in the 1990s and have developed a fondness for them and a love for their wine ever since. We sold it in our shop and continue to buy and drink it as often as we can. Major David Charles Steytler bought the farm after the war in 1946, when it was called Rosendal. There have been four generations farming since then, at first mixed farming, and then they changed to grapes. They bottled their first wine in 1984, when the farm was renamed Kaapzicht (transl. Sight of the Cape). They have a beautiful view of Table Mountain from the farm, hence the name
Danie’s wife Yngvild handles the export market and visits at least 20 countries over 13 weeks each year. Now winemaker Danie Junior has the energy and new ideas to improve the wines. He and his wife Karen (who handles the sales) are preparing a new vintage, which will turn their parents into grandparents. Danie senior says winemaking is for young people, not for grandfathers, so the farm is on loan to them. The 5th generation is scheduled to arrive in October. They had a slideshow running, showing us the history of Kaapzicht in pictures. Over the years, Kaapzicht has won many awards for their wines, mostly Pinotage and Bordeaux blends, and we were very lucky to be able to taste these with dinner. This was prepared by Chef Etienne Bonthuys and all the food was cooked on coals of wingerd stokkies (vine prunings). As he produced some salmon soufflé dumplings, we were seriously in awe. Pots of boiling water were spotted on the fire for these. Very brave and it worked very well.
George Steytler welcomed us with a glass of Kaapzicht Celebration bubbly
So new, the corks haven’t gone in yet
Our pathway through barrels and crates into the cellar. Romantic candle light guided us
Long U shaped table for all the invited guests and family
Danie Junior spent days rearranging all the crates to make the cellar more cozy. It will take more days to put it all back. John asked what would happen if any of the labels became detached!
Friends, neighbours and family. Mrs and Johan Malan from Simonsig, Mrs van der Merwe, Danie Steytler, Mr van der Merwe of FNB and Louis Roos from Mooiplaas, the farm next door
Danie Junior, his mother Yngvild, Danie Steytler telling us the farm’s history and his mother, who still lives on the farm
The cellar had such a warm atmosphere with all the lights and candlelight – and not forgetting the heaters
Danie Junior explains what he plans to do to carry on the family farming tradition
The menu
Our wine to accompany the starter was a Markus Schneider Steinberg Riesling 2013 from Germany. Markus Schneider is Kaapzicht’s German agent and he had 1000 bottles made for Danie. It was a beautiful expression of what a Pfalz Steinberg Durkeim Qualitätswein should be. No turpenes, a nice grapey nose and crisp acidity on top of nice fruit
It went so well with the starter of grilled prawns, calamari and soufflé of salmon dumplings with a divine crayfish sauce
The Steytler family enjoying the evening
The 1947 Old Steen (chenin blanc) 2013, for all of us baby boomers, made from vines planted in 1947. It has a nice richness, sweet fruit balanced beneath the acidity and some slight charred wood notes on the end
It was served with Veal sweetbreads with the Kaapzicht Chenin Blanc-based saffron sauce. Perhaps a little adventurous for some palates. We did see rather a lot returned to the kitchen. It was topped with raw salmon sashimi and some creamy chicken liver and fruit accompanied it
Louis Roos in discussion with Danie Junior and his mother
Chef Etienne Bonthuys doing all the cooking on the open fires outside the cellar
Sous chefs assisting; a few watchers enjoying a glass of Kaapzicht
The Chef searing some spring onions
Lots of good organisation
Then it was time for a treat: Magnums of Cape Winemakers Guild Auction wine - Kaapzicht 2001 Auction Reserve. Incense, perfume and violets on the nose, with some herbal balsamic notes. Jammy Cabernet flavours of deeply intense dark berries and some more violets
This and the Steytler 2010 Vision Cape blend were served with the main course of an Ostrich eye fillet with a Kaapzicht Pinotage reduction, topped with tagliolini of pasta and courgette and rich bone marrow
The Vision 2010 Cape Blend had an intense nose, sweet and sour fruit which is layered with some chalk. Pinotage is definitely present in this wine! It won four and half stars in Platter. The Kaapzicht Cabernet 2008 won a Veritas gold
Sadly, no picture of the lovely dessert, but lots of fun was being had by all at the end of the evening. Shante Hutton of Wine.co.za, sommelier Higgo Jacobs, Danie Steytler Jnr and Annareth Bolton, CEO of the Stellenbosch Wine Route - This big?
Something we did not know was that Higgo and Annareth are brother and sister. We know them both well in the wine industry - we were in the same CWA Diploma class as Annareth - but had never met them together. No, this big...
Damn, she is already married

© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2014

KWV launch the new vintage of the Mentors range at The Test Kitchen

As if this week could not get any better? Then it did. On Thursday we attended a tasting of the KWV Mentors newly released wines at the Test Kitchen, where some of their best wines were paired with the food of South Africa’s number one chef Luke Dale Roberts. It was a tour de force of wines which, to quote Johann Fourie Chief Winemaker at KWV, “started the renaissance of KWV”. This renaissance was driven ably by Cellar Master Richard Rowe.
KWV managed to take over the restaurant for the lunchtime service
Eamon and Clare McLaughlin welcome guests at the door, 
Fiona MacDonald chats to Marco Ventrella, Chief Viticulturist at KWV
We love watching these chefs doing preparation in the very quiet kitchen. They each have a job to do and they do it silently and efficiently, then the food is assembled and the magic happens
Everyone knows exactly what is expected of them
First a tasting of 7 white wines, then 7 reds and then the Noble late harvest 2013
Tasting, tweeting, discussing, photographing and making notes happen throughout
From bottom left: 1. Mentors Semillon 2013, so classic, so clean and crisp with long flavours of citrus. HOW can we get SA drinking more of this wonderful wine? 2. Mentors Stellenbosch 2013 Sauvignon Blanc with cats pee notes and quite austere for Stellenbosch! 3. Mentors Darling 2013 Sauvignon Blanc was shyer, with more asparagus, crisp and dry, very different, will age when it settles. 4. Mentors Sauvignon/Semillon blend from Groenekloof. Grassy, dusty, nice glycerols, crisp lemons and melons. 5. Mentors 2013 Chenin Blanc. Dusty but full of fruit salad - peaches and melons, nice crispness and elegance. Drink now! 6. Mentors Verdelho. Herbal and full of peaches, nutty apricots, with minerality and elegance which was unexpected, but not powerful enough, needs more fruit and acid depth 7. Mentors 2013 Chardonnay. Golden delicious apples, shy, with wood notes but no smoke. Some umami hints on nose. Golden flavours, vanilla apricot and peach but dry, not sweet
Richard Rowe talks about the wines
Eamon McLaughlin
Winemaker Johann Fourie and Viticulturalist Marco Ventrella
Johann talks about the way they make the wine and source the grapes
Marco Ventrella spoke about the way they select vineyards for their special characteristics, to find the best terroir for each varietal
The line up of red wines
Chef Luke Dale Roberts
The red wines from bottom left: 1 Mentors 2012 Pinotage. Very rich, bloody notes, with intense red berries on nose. Wonderful mouthful of rich berries, long flavours. No metallic notes, toasty on end. Lynne would drink this (second pinotage this year!) Keep it and it will show its Pinot Noir parentage 2. Mentors 2012 Shiraz. Amami, tomato soup notes, sweet fruit, deep and delicious, pepper, spice and black cherries and mulberries  3. Mentors Cabernet Franc. Elegant. Incense wood. lovely berries violets and vanilla. A Dive-in nose. On the palate, clean bright fruit, beautiful minerality, and nice chalky tannins. Superb flavours. Lynne has written I WANT SOME, so this might be her Birthday wine this year. She scored 19½/20  4. Mentors 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon. Cassis, warm fruit, classic nose. Cassis and amaretto cherries on mouth, chalky tannins and minerality. Needs 10 years to settle. Will be great  5. Mentors 2012 Petit Verdot. Shy but full of promise. Violets, roses, pure Chanel. Rich, full pure fruit, a lovely expression of the grape, vanilla on end. Nice structure. Taste this in 4/5 years  6. Mentors Orchestra 2012. Bordeaux blend. Blockbuster blend. With layers and layers, great balance; berries are expressive but not overripe. A 10 year wine  7. Mentors Canvas 2012 Rhône blend. “Hot country” wine, with nice acids and depth of fruit layers; violets and chalky closed tannins. See me in 10 years please. So unusual for a Rhône blend to be more closed than a Bordeaux
The menu paired with 5 of the wines
Pipers
A smiling chef
A plate of delightful amuses to go with the bread platter. It included some savoury millionaires' shortbread, a square of foie topped with gold leaf – more, we want more, we muttered
Luke tells us about the food to come
So hard to resist this bread and pretzel platter, but we managed
Tony Jackman, Eamon McLaughlin, Neil Pendock and Marco Ventrella
‘Home dried’ tomatoes served with aubergine and sesame puree, with the burnt aubergine jelly and a goats cheese mousse. It was everything you ever wanted a tomato to be. Paired with the Mentors 2013 Chenin
Another view of the same to make you even more hungry
Tuna sashimi with a miso cured quail egg on top of baby lettuce, toasted garlic and ginger dressing. Paired with the Mentors 2013 Verdelho
A sweet and perfectly grilled scallop on fine green beans, braised & raw shiitake mushrooms on a tofu miso suke (fermented bean paste), braised scallop dressing with miso on toast for crunch. Perfect with the Mentors Semillon 2013
A palate cleanser of pomelo and grapefruit three ways, a sorbet, a foam and small segments, sprinkled with herbs

We all have to have a photograph of THAT!
Pan seared rare Springbok loin, baby beets, springbok skilpadjie, (red onion and almond liver parfait wrapped in caul fat) with a roasted springbok and beetroot ‘extraction’. Such a perfect match with the Mentors 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon

And as a fine finale, an Assiette of chocolate, grilled white chocolate and cinnamon sponge, caramelia cremeuz, guanaja parfait & almond streusl and maple foam went with the perfect glass of The Mentors Noble Late Harvest 2013
Take a bow Mr Dale Roberts and KWV
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2014