Thursday, February 12, 2015

Jordan harvest report and launch of Inspector Peringuey Chenin blanc

Phylloxera is a tiny destructive louse, native to North America, which  preys on and destroys the roots of grape vines. It was accidentally introduced to France in the 1860’s, spread rapidly and devastated the vines there and in the rest of Europe and they all had to be replanted. It also made its way to South Africa on vine root stocks and caused major devastation. It is the reason that all vines in most of the world have to be planted on American root stocks which are immune to it. It was discovered in Mowbray in the Cape in 1886 by a French scientist, Dr Louis Albert Peringuey. He was an Insect taxonomist who became Inspector-general of vineyards in the Cape. Jordan Wine Estate has honoured him by naming their newly released 2014 Chenin Blanc after him and we were invited to their Harvest lunch to taste it
Jordan’s new Harvest T-shirt
Gathering for a welcoming drink outside the Bakery
Chef George Jardine menu planning inside the Bakery
and contacting suppliers
Lynne was delighted to see that he has just produced a cookbook and bought one immediately. The recipes are very accessible and as George said, we have probably eaten half of them already. She can’t wait to try cooking some of them at home
Gary Jordan welcomes us with glasses of the Jordan Barrel fermented 2013 Chenin Blanc
Kathy Jordan and Jacques Steyn
Platter editor Philip and Cathy van Zyl MW
Gary tells us what a great harvest it is this year and about the weather that led up to it. He said how amazing the grapes are, that they have never seen better and that it is going to be a bumper harvest. It started two weeks early, on the 22nd of January, the earliest recorded harvest in all the 23 harvests they have done on Jordan. They are mid way through and about to start picking their red grapes, starting with the Merlot
Kathy told us that they are very busy in the cellar, and they are still doing some pre-harvest bottling! They may be able to finish in time for Easter this year, but will still have work to do in the cellar
The farm dogs at all our feet. We heard about the Chenin blanc vine improvement programme they are doing with Ken Forrester and Bruwer Raats by doing clone selections from existing vineyards to get rid of viruses. The launch today is of the 2014 Chenin. It was the first vineyard they planted on the property, the vines were trellised and they are the Montpellier clone, which is different from most of the chenin clones planted in South Africa
We ventured briefly into the cellar to taste the sweet juice of the just picked Chenin grapes and the fermenting must from the previous day’s picking. The juice was sweet and grassy, while the must was full of guava and green grass, herbs, and lemon zest with crisp zingy fruit acids, but in perfect balance with the grape sugars and has great depth of flavour. It is amazing to see what the addition of yeast and one day’s fermentation can do to grape juice. We can’t wait to see what this year’s Chenin will be like. It will go into third fill oak barrels
While we were in the cellar, the grapes kept coming in and the press was working full time
Working on the press
Listening, taking notes, tweeting and tasting
Kathy pouring out the fermenting must for Angela Lloyd
Then it was time to taste the new 2014 under the trees with lunch
Gary getting us all seated
He introduces the 2014 Jordan Chenin, named after Inspector Peringuey, and tells us his history
These are similar to the stone age tools that Peringuey was digging for when he discovered Phylloxera in the vineyards in South Africa. These have been found in the vineyards on Jordan and are very impressive. Obviously stone age man lived on this hill
They are well made and all have a purpose
The 2014 Inspector Peringuey Jordan Chenin Blanc. It has complex flavours of warm golden berries with gentle alcohol. The nice balance of acid and sugar with restrained elegance and minerality make this an excellent food wine
The lunch menu
The cheese and charcuterie platter to share
One of this year’s wine apprentices. Ksenia Findlay is from Scotland (but originally from Russia), speaks with a cultured Glaswegian accent and is loving her harvest at Jordan
Alan Mullins CWM, having a great day
The vines going up the steep hills
Three good breads from the Jardine bakery with aioli, pesto and tapenade
Food for some customers
Alan Mullins chatting with Ina Smith, who runs the South African Chenin Blanc Association
The dessert platter with sweet delights from the bakery. The absolute killer was the chocolate pie with meltingly crisp buttery pastry, thick chocolate ganache and, beneath it, sticky, salty caramel. We ate far too much of that. Because we could. And wanted to. The fruit and nut filled brownies and the tiny almond cakes topped with lemon icing and poppy seeds were also super moreish. You can go and buy them all at the Bakery.
Dax Villaneuva with Jeanri-Tine van Zyl
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2015

Glass blowing, chocolate and craft beer at Spice Route

After lunch, we visited some of the other amenities on Spice Route, starting at 
which produces an enormous selection of decorative glass
and watched the glass blowers in action
producing a decorative flask
While Anne and Lynne went to see the de Villiers chocolates
John went to see Brewmaster Wolfgang Koedel at CBC and to buy some of the delicious Mandarin IPA, which was sold out on our last visit
It was sold out again and he bought the Imperial IPA, but Wolfgang took him into the brewery
for a taste of the Mandarin from the tank

followed by a taste of the Harvest lager
Cheers!
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2015

Wednesday, February 11, 2015

Bertus Basson at Spice Route: "A modern South African Restaurant"

The Mining Indaba has been filling Cape Town this last week and it was hard to get a reservation at any of our favourite restaurants as they were heavily booked, so this gave us a chance to go to this new restaurant, which has only been open for a few days. Bertus Basson is one of our top chefs, a man with a wild child reputation for fun and interesting gourmet food, so we were keen to see what he is doing there. It has a South African traditional food theme running through the menu, but with lots of twists and surprises, as we would expect from Bertus, who deconstructs and enhances and uses the best fresh ingredients. At last there is a place to introduce your guests to traditional South African dishes with good wine. And of course there are a lot of other things to do on Spice Route
A lovely garden setting on the farm
Preparing the bread and butter boards. With the very moist sour dough bread with a crisp crust, you get an apricot butter and a snoek pate. A new slant on the local traditional Afrikaans way of starting a meal with bread, butter and jam.
Some things for sale in the restaurant
Cookbooks, aprons on sale and nice booster cushions for small children
The restaurant has nice clean lines, lime washed walls and floors, a rietdak ceiling (reeds) and bright touches of colour on cushions, furniture and wall art
We loved the ‘doily’ wall
A simple place setting with a board for a side plate
The menu, which changes regularly, showcases modern South African food and features local produce
We chose a bottle of Spice Route 2014 Swartland Chenin Blanc and it went very well with all the food
Ouma Jossie’s baked tongue with slaphaksteentjies (pickled onions) and two colours of organic baby beetroot. We see from the menu that these onions were dozing a bit (slaaphaksteentjies!) They were quite sharp with vinegar. The tongue with the beetroot was enjoyed very much by our friend Anne
Lynne’s starter was the Rice flour dusted tempura squid with two sauces, a Cape Malay curried sauce and a thick creamy mayonnaise, kimchi pickled cucumber and radishes that were very thinly sliced and topped with fresh chervil. It was crisp and tender and very, very good. One to return for again and again
John chose the rich and smooth chicken liver parfait served with sweet onion jam and slices of toasted mosbolletjie bread.
Lynne and Anne tweeting and taking photographs while waiting for the next course to arrive
We know we should have all ordered different main courses, but none of us could resist the Springbok Tomato Bredie pie. It was served in a hot frying pan, topped with thin crisp pastry. Inside was very tender springbok, but we missed the traditional rich tomato gravy in the sauce. It was accompanied by four small pumpkin fritters dusted with lots of cinnamon. They were more like light poffertjes and added just the right spicy note which one always expects in Tomato Bredie. A very good deconstruction. The lightly pickled onion salad was an extra, but we were not sure why it was there. Perhaps as a relish. The topping of roasted sunflower seeds added good texture.
We tried to resist dessert, but two of us decided to share the deep fried camembert. The frying made it soft but, sadly, the cheese was very unripe and therefore didn’t have much flavour. It was served with squares of watermelon konfyt, chopped nuts and a date puree
John (chocoholic) could not resist trying the Chocolate fondant, which came hot and oozy as it should. it was made with good dark bitter chocolate with the accompanying caramel ice cream and crushed honeycomb adding the sweetness
A decorated wall niche
A cool fountain in the garden
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2015