Tuesday, September 29, 2015

Stanford Wine Route Launch: Springfontein

Springfontein speaks quality in everything it does: wine, food, accommodation and landscape. It is definitely worth a visit. To get to it, you go through Stanford village and down alongside the river on a well maintained hard packed road for about 7 kilometres
Our accommodation was in the new guest cottage on Springfontein which can accommodate three separate couples or one family with interconnecting doors open. Other members of the media were housed at Stanford Hills in the large farmhouse. This cottage is now available for guests
There is an apartment at either end, each with its own terrace, and the middle apartment has the verandah next to the pool, where we were. Two other members of the media, Graham Howe and Monika Elias, had the end apartments
The view from the front door. The cottage you can see is about to be converted into more guest accommodation. Hildegard Witbooi, Tariro's partner, is a horticulturist and is in charge of all the landscaping on the farm, all of it using indigenous plants and trees where possible. She is also now the farm's viticulturist
The pool verandah. We wish we had had more time to enjoy sitting here but it was not possible with our heavy schedule
Our comfortable bed in front of the fireplace. We could have lit a fire, but we didn't need to
The very large bathroom with walk in shower...
...and roll top bath
The middle apartment has a fully fitted kitchen. The end apartments both have a fridge and a kettle and their own fully fitted bathrooms...
They have left parts of some old walls bare so that you can see how the original cottage was constructed
Gabion walls straddle two old trees
After breakfast at Vaalvlei on Tuesday we were taken up the hill to the top vineyards at Springfontein for a wine tasting. "Founded in 1994, Springfontein is held by shareholder families whose heritage spans 3 continents: Germany, the USA and South Africa." Dr. Johst & Jennifer Packard Weber are directors
A glass of Springfontein Pinotage
Tariro and Hildegard with the marvellous view of the mountains and the valley below. All Springfontein's vineyards are on the other side of the river from Stanford, very close to the sea, on the dunes. The sandy soil means that they can experiment with planting vines on their own rootstocks as there is very little risk of Phylloxera
Tariro points out some of the other vineyards on the wine route
Hildegard pours us some of the very quaffable and elegant 4 star Chenin Blanc
Tariro talks about his wines, all of which will be available for lunch at Springfontein Eats after the tasting. Lynne fell in love with the 4 star Petit Verdot, full of violets and spicy fruit with depth and wildness. John loves the Pinotage, which has rich, ripe fruit with a spicy backbone. Tariro serves Pinotage in Pinot Noir glasses, as he believes that they suit the wine best
Nice to taste wine in the sunshine with sea breezes
The vineyards are in leaf
They are constructing new vineyard at the top of the hill and another guest cottage
Diggers making drainage channels
The workers taking a break for lunch
Very chalky soil, perfect for grapes
Tariro being interviewed for radio by one of our number
We subscribe to their motto: Eat, Drink, Sleep, Breathe...
Time for lunch in the restaurant Springfontein Eats. The chef is Jürgen Schneider who runs the restaurant with his wife Susanne. He was a Michelin starred chef at his restaurant in Germany for 14 years so the food is excellent. He forages, he uses vegetables grown in the large organic kitchen garden, uses locally sourced produce, he creates something different almost every day. You have to book, it is very popular. And it is not cheap but worth it. 3 course R 295 - R 335 · 4 course R 395 · 5 course R 475 · 6 course R 535. And then you can order wine from their wine list of locally produced wines. They also have an impressive list of French and German wines
Blackboard menu
The Vinotec
The scrupulously clean kitchen
Our tables
Jil's Dune Chenin Blanc, which has a touch of botrytis, is naturally fermented in barrel. This wine, with stone fruit and honey notes, was so good with the food
Chef brings canapés to the terrace
Crisps with sesame and black pepper
soft cheese in nasturtium leaves
and small filled rolls of pastry - didn't get one so can’t describe!
Tariro hands us over to Susanne to manage
She tells us about the lunch we are about to eat
A celebration of carrot. A baby just pulled from the ground, a carrot jelly, a carrot rappé and carrot puree flavoured with herbs and spices
Do we have enough glasses?
Stuffed squid on a crunchy couscous 'soil' with beetroot jus and a chicken wing ballotine
Lamm x 2 was how the menu described the two main course: An individual raviolo stuffed with lamb in a creamy herb sauce with salty black olives
Hildegard enjoying lunch
Tender roast lamb loin with spring vegetables, a marvellous lamb jus on a celeriac puree
The dessert wowed. Some people had never had fennel in a dessert and it certainly predominated. There was a fennel & vanilla ice cream, a syrup and a puree on a pana cotta base with orange slices and fresh pieces of the leaves and stalk. It was topped with a gingerbread crisp which was a nice foil. Some said it was the best dessert they had ever eaten
It was served with a Chenin blanc noble late harvest
And with coffee back on the terrace some friandise: Small almond financiers, wickedly sour red fruit jellies and some almond biscotti
Chilling on the lawn
Graham Howe feeling relaxed

The road back to town. We were off to town to the Don Gelato emporium to eat ice cream and then onto our final dinner on the African Queen River boat
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2015

Stanford Wine Route Launch: Raka

We arrive at Raka, one of the family run wineries we always visit when in the area, to buy some of its excellent wines. It is owned by commercial fisherman and amusing raconteur Piet Dreyer, the man who put squid on the tables of South Africa. He runs it with his sweetly patient wife Elna, who kindly mothers everyone, sons Josef (winemaker), Pieter (Viticulturist) and daughter Jorika (Sales and Marketing). Gerhard, the oldest son, runs the fishing business. They are a charming, hospitable and amusing family. Raka is named after Piet's Black fishing vessel. (From the Afrikaans poem by N.P. van Wyk Louw, about an African tribe being threatened by Raka, half man, half beast and as black as the night). Squid ink makes fishing boats black with its ink, Piet bought a black ship so he didn’t have to repaint it that often!
The tasting room
Piet and Elna summoned us to a long table in the tasting room for a comprehensive tasting of their wines. You can taste 4 wines free, there is a charge for more.
Piet kept us very amused and interested with his stories of how he started in business and then how he bought the farm and started making wine.
The red wines have always scored high in Platter and are mainly four star and above. We also love their white wines and their rosé and generally buy their reasonable Chenin and rosé by the case. This is their four star Quinary, a Bordeaux blend, nose full of ripe mulberries, it has layers of berry fruit, vanilla & liquorice. All the reds are appealing and worth drinking now or keeping. The flagship 5 star Biography Shiraz with pure clean warm fruit is spicy and sweet with soft chalky tannins. The Figurehead is their lasting Cape blend, one for future drinking.
Should you have a special occasion, you can buy a box of the top 6 varietal wines called Luxus for R780. On the box is printed "Born of the sea, guided by the stars, blessed by the earth"
It contains a bottle each of Malbec, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvedre
Then it was time for a delicious farm style lunch of traditional food. The food had been prepared locally and brought to the farm. We had a Hoenderpastei (chicken pie) with wafer crisp, flaky pastry over creamy tender chicken, and a pot of waterblommetjies (a water plant that grows in the dams)
This was accompanied by sweet potatoes and rice. We have to confess not being very fond of traditional way of cooking sweet potatoes like this when they are very sweet and soft, almost caramelised, but they acted as a sort of chutney and were very good indeed with the pie
Bud break happening on the vines up the hill
We all tried to avoid eating too much of the apple stuffed cream cake but could not resist a slice. A coffee, and then it was time to go to our accommodation to unpack and get ready for drinks on the dam at Robert Stanford estate
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2015