Thursday, June 23, 2016

This Week’s MENU. Heat and humidity in Hanoi, Ha Long Bay, Leeu Collection, Vondeling's Babiana Vertical tasting, Chenin & Shiraz showcases, Wine & Recipe of the week

MENU
The weekly Cape Food, Wine and Lifestyle E-Journal
Dinner in the street, 40ºC in Hanoi at 9pm
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This has been a rather busy week and a bit of a struggle to get all of these photographs and write ups done in time, as we have another busy one on the go as we put this to bed tonight. A sore throat for Lynne has at last gone after 5 days, but it did keep her in bed for a day or two, as we were not sure if it heralded a bout of something worse. Icy cold winter is upon us and the fire is going constantly to warm the house. The instinct to hibernate is with us. The winter solstice strawberry moon this week graced us, but brought with it a bitterly clear cold night, with the temperature dropping to 2.5⁰C, not often seen in Sea Point. Today was one of our fabulous Champagne days, clear skies, lots of sun and the air in the winelands sparkled, as did the mountains. The temperature went up to about 23⁰C in Stellenbosch. and we were warm again
The launch of the Leeu Collection Estate Boutique hotel, spa, gallery and winery     Last week we attended the launch of the Leeu Estates, the exclusive five-star boutique property which opened to paying guests on the 15th of June. Indian billionaire, Mr Analjit Singh visited Franschhoek for one day during 2010 FIFA World Cup and he and his wife fell in love with the town and the countryside and decided to build a home there. This soon grew into a world-class hospitality and winemaking destination. (Singh means lion and Leeu is lion in Afrikaans)
He has since bought several properties in the area starting with Le Quartier Français hotel and restaurant and the three farms Dieu Donné, Von Ortloff and Klein Dassenberg. He is the non executive chairman of Vodafone India and the founder and chairman of the listed Max India Group, whose interests include life insurance and private health care. Take the tour.....
An historic 11 year vertical tasting of Vondeling's Babiana Cape White blend     It is very seldom indeed that we get a chance to taste 11 years of one wine from any wine farm. Not many farms have vinotecs (wine libraries) that can go back that far, especially for a white wine. So we leapt at the chance to taste Vondeling's Babiana white blend of vintages from 2005 through to 2015. Winemaker Matthew Copeland took over in July 2007 from the previous winemaker. And he has really taken this wine to new heights. Babiana is a white blend with never less than 50% Chenin Blanc and the 2015 has 60% Chenin, 18% Grenache Blanc, 16% Viognier and a little (6%) Chardonnay. Famed UK Chef Albert Roux imports 50 % of this wine for use in their renowned restaurants Michelin starred La Gavroche; Roux at the Landau and Roux Parliament Square. An 11 year success story.....
The Chenin Blanc Association Showcase at the Cape Grace     South African Chenin Blanc continues to gain recognition at home and internationally. We heard it referred to twice at VinExpo as the most exciting grape from South Africa and another commentator referred to it as the grape that can represent us so well as we are making Chenin Blanc better than anyone else, in several different impressive styles. The Chenin Blanc Association showcased their members wine this week at the Cape Grace and this gave the trade, media and sommeliers a chance to taste some of the best. Spectacular wines, great canapés too.....
The 2016 Shiraz Showcase and Winners' List     Before we went to this Showcase Lynne asked herself what she was expecting to find. And the answer was she didn't know. And now that we have tasted through as many of the 114 (? some people brought wines not mentioned in the catalogue) wines as was humanly possible in three hours, she still does not have a clear idea of what the South African wine industry is trying to express with Shiraz. Yes, there are some wonderful examples of this lovely grape variety, spicy, fruity, juicy, complex, woody, herbal, with chocolate, liquorice and even coffee, but are there any styles people are trying to make and reproduce each year? It seems not yet. Everyone is doing their own thing. There certainly was one style that emerged, that of quiet elegantly restrained Shirazes, that need time and show huge potential. Several of those were in the top 12 line up this year, like the Saronsberg, Fairview, Rickety Bridge and Eagles’ Nest. The De Morgenzon Reserve is in a class of its own. A huge nose, spicy, sappig, concentrated , long and quite warm. A food wine to drink now with wintery food and/or keep for years if it so takes you
This competition has so many entries that we think the tasting should be over two days. The big question is: Is Shiraz the red wine of South Africa's future? Can it be? It is certainly easy to drink. Most of the time. But we are not the Rhône. So many wines, so little time.....
MENU goes East - Day and Night in steamy Hanoi     We awoke to a rainy and humid day. Lynne decided to sample the Vietnamese breakfast. Quite similar to what we had eaten the night before. Those mushroom and onion rice pancakes, and some Pho with noodles and fried soya nuggets. Extremely filling
John stayed with the omelette, but lost the rather stringy indigestible cheese filling. The fruits came as an appetiser every morning, good dragon fruit, crisp slices of different melon, but not always with much taste. The fruit juices were superb, especially the mango. They tasted freshly squeezed. Join us on the tour
MENU goes East - From Hanoi to Ha Long Bay     When you go to Vietnam, people tell you of all sorts of places you must see. We will come back one day to see the rest of the country. The one place we think you should never miss is Ha Long Bay. We were given the advice not to go with the small and cheaper operators, but to go with the big, fairly expensive companies. It was the best possible advice. This trip was a dream come true. We absolutely loved every moment of it and thoroughly recommend that you add it to your bucket list.
It is a three and a half hour trip to Ha Long Bay from Hanoi. It is not that far, but the roads are very busy and congested and go slowly through many towns, rather like our N1 motorway through Somerset West. So it was an early start as our luxury bus came to collect us at 8. We took overnight bags and left our suitcases at the hotel to which we would return after three days away. Click here and see the spectacular beauty of the bay
MENU’s Wine of the week     The best Chenin at the showcase, for us, was Beaumont's Hope Marguerite
Layers and layers of fruit and complexity, great minerality and punch, this barrel fermented Chenin is a wine to pair with rich food or just enjoy with good friends. It will cellar well too and reward. Platter gave it 4½ stars. R240 a bottle on the farm.
Recipe of the week      The cold always makes us want to eat more spicy food but not always meat. So this week's recipe was a great discovery. Use as many or as few chillies as you like. Lynne used three birds eye chillies. If using tinned tomatoes you do not need to add the passata. But fresh tomatoes are best.
2 Aubergines - sea salt - canola or coconut oil for frying - 1 t mustard seeds - 10 to 12 curry leaves, dried will work if you can't get fresh from Atlas - 2 onions, finely chopped - 2 or 3 dried chillies - 4 t garam masala - 2 t ground coriander - 2 t turmeric - 400 ml tin of coconut cream - 4 tomatoes finely chopped or 1 x 400g tin of chopped tomatoes - 300 ml tomato passata - 1 x 400g tin of chick peas - 30g fresh mange tout peas
Slice the aubergines in quarters lengthwise, then into 2 cm thick slices. Salt them and set aside for half an hour so that they weep and get rid of any bitterness. Rinse and dry them off with a towel.
Heat the oil in a large casserole and fry the aubergine slices till they are golden brown and crisp all over. You may need to do this in batches. Set aside. Add another half a tablespoon of oil to the pan and add the mustard seeds and curry leaves and stir fry for 30 seconds. Do not have the pan too hot or the mustard seeds will pop and fly out of the pan. Stir in the onion and continue cooking with a little salt until they are soft and beginning to brown. Add the chillies and the other spices with a spoonful of the thick top of the coconut cream and fry for one minute. Add the remaining coconut cream, the fresh tomatoes and the passata with one extra can of water. Simmer with the lid off for half an hour till the sauce is thick and creamy. Stir in the chickpeas and the aubergines and cook for another 15 to 20 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. It may need salt. Then add the mange tout and cook for another five minutes. Serve with steamed rice or Naan bread and scatter over some extra curry leaves just as you serve. Lovely with a good Chenin Blanc or  Sauvignon Blanc





23rd June 2016
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MENU's Recipe of the week - Aubergine and Chickpea curry

The cold always makes us want to eat more spicy food but not always meat. So this week's recipe was a great discovery. Use as many or as few chillies as you like. Lynne used three birds eye chillies. If using tinned tomatoes you do not need to add the passata. But fresh tomatoes are best.
Aubergine and Chickpea curry
2 Aubergines - sea salt - canola or coconut oil for frying - 1 t mustard seeds - 10 to 12 curry leaves, dried will work if you can't get fresh from Atlas - 2 onions, finely chopped - 2 or 3 dried chillies - 4 t garam masala - 2 t ground coriander - 2 t turmeric - 400 ml tin of coconut cream - 4 tomatoes finely chopped or 1 x 400g tin of chopped tomatoes - 300 ml tomato passata - 1 x 400g tin of chick peas - 30g fresh mange tout peas
Slice the aubergines in quarters lengthwise, then into 2 cm thick slices. Salt them and set aside for half an hour so that they weep and get rid of any bitterness. Rinse and dry them off with a towel.
Heat the oil in a large casserole and fry the aubergine slices till they are golden brown and crisp all over. You may need to do this in batches. Set aside. Add another half a tablespoon of oil to the pan and add the mustard seeds and curry leaves and stir fry for 30 seconds. Do not have the pan too hot or the mustard seeds will pop and fly out of the pan. Stir in the onion and continue cooking with a little salt until they are soft and beginning to brown. Add the chillies and the other spices with a spoonful of the thick top of the coconut cream and fry for one minute. Add the remaining coconut cream, the fresh tomatoes and the passata with one extra can of water. Simmer with the lid off for half an hour till the sauce is thick and creamy. Stir in the chickpeas and the aubergines and cook for another 15 to 20 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning. It may need salt. Then add the mange tout and cook for another five minutes. Serve with steamed rice or Naan bread and scatter over some extra curry leaves just as you serve. Lovely with a good Chenin Blanc or  Sauvignon Blanc
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

MENU's Wine of the Week: Beaumont Hope Marguerite 2014

The best Chenin at the showcase, for us, was Beaumont's Hope Marguerite, named for Sebastian Beaumont's grandmother. Layers and layers of fruit and complexity, great minerality and punch, this barrel fermented Chenin is a wine to pair with rich food or just enjoy with good friends. It will cellar well too and reward. Platter gives it 4½ stars. We paid R240 a bottle at the farm
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Wednesday, June 22, 2016

The 2016 Shiraz Showcase and Winners' List


Before we went to this Showcase, Lynne asked herself what she was expecting to find. And the answer was that she didn't know. And now that we have tasted through as many of the 114 (some people brought wines not mentioned in the catalogue) wines as was humanly possible in three hours, she still does not have a clear idea of what the South African wine industry is trying to express with Shiraz. Yes, there are some wonderful examples of this lovely grape variety, spicy, fruity, juicy, complex, woody, herbal, with chocolate, liquorice and even coffee but are there any styles people are trying to make and reproduce each year? It seems not yet. Everyone is doing their own thing. There certainly was one style that emerged, that of quiet elegantly restrained Shirazes, that need time and show huge potential. Several of those were in the top 12 line up this year, like the Saronsberg, Fairview, Rickety Bridge and the Eagles Nest. The DeMorgenzon Reserve is in a class of its own. A huge nose, spicy, sappig, concentrated, long and quite warm. A food wine to drink now with wintery food and/or keep for years if it so takes you
This competition has so many entries that we think the tasting should be over two days. The big question is: Is Shiraz the red wine of South Africa's future? Can it be? It is certainly easy to drink. Most of the time. But we are not the Rhône
 Winemakers Debbie Thompson of Simonsig and Dewald Heyns of Saronsberg
 Saronsberg's 2014 Shiraz and Full Circle Shiraz blend
 Waterford's Kevin Arnold with Rickety Bridge winemaker Wynand Grobler
 Neil Pendock with Fred Fismer and Guy Webber of Stellenzicht
 Painted Wolf Jeremy Borg in conversation
 Nico and Petra van der Merwe with the Decanter Gold Medal Award for their Nicolas Syrah 2013 which achieved 95 points
 Lanri Maritz and KWV's Izelle van Blerk being entertained by the strolling musicians
We were given meal vouchers by the organisers and we both chose the Lamb shanks. Usually the food from the Convention Centre kitchens is dire and the service awful. Both have improved, but the lamb was rather tough, too attached to the bone and not wildly flavoursome. It needed more shiraz in the sauce!
Taj Sommelier Pearl Oliver with Vuvu Sands

THE WINNERS OF THE 2016 SHIRAZ SA CHALLENGE
CATEGORY: SHIRAZ
Alto Shiraz 2013
Babylonstoren Shiraz 2014
Cederberg Shiraz 2014
De Morgenzon Reserve Syrah 2014
Eagles' Nest Shiraz 2013
Fairview Eenzaamheid Shiraz 2013
KWV The Mentors Shiraz 2013
Laborie Limited Collection Shiraz 2014
Rickety Bridge Shiraz 2013
Saronsberg Shiraz 2014
Strandveld Syrah 2012
Windmeul Shiraz Reserve 2013

CATEGORY: SHIRAZ BLENDS
Middelvlei Momberg 2013
Eikendal Charisma 2013
Alvi's Drift Albertus Viljoen Limited Release Red Blend 2012


© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

The Chenin Blanc Association Showcase at the Cape Grace

South African Chenin Blanc continues to gain recognition at home and internationally. We heard it referred to twice at VinExpo as the most exciting grape from South Africa and another commentator referred to it as the grape that can represent us so well as we are making Chenin Blanc better than anyone else, in several different impressive different styles. The Chenin Blanc Association showcased their members wine this week at the Cape Grace and this gave the trade, media and sommeliers a chance to taste some of the best
The wines were divided into several categories. We set up our palates with two MCC bubblies, a Non Vintage from De Morgenzon and the other 2013 Sparklehorse Brut from Ken Forrester. Both are really great expressions of the grape, crisp elegant and wonderful to celebrate with friends
Fresh local oysters were served to go with the MCCs
Accompaniments for the oysters
Lynne and others who can't eat oysters, were served these canapés, a lovely crisp potato rosti topped with cream cheese, smoked salmon and avocado mousse
Raymond Noppé, Sales Manager at Delheim and Lizette Steyn-James, GM and winemaker at Welgemeend
Aletté van Vuuren of Ken Forrester Wines and Chenin blanc Association Manager Ina Smith
DeMorgenzon winemaker Hanneke Botha showing the Barrel fermented Chenins
Sebastian Beaumont, newly elected Chairman of the Chenin Blanc Association opened proceedings
The function was well attended
Ina Smith with Willie du Plessis of the sponsor, Standard Bank
Guy McDonald, Anel Grobler, RJ Botha and Pieter van Niekerk
Then the Fresh and Fruity unwooded wines, mostly were entry level and most were current vintages. They are easy drinking, most are reasonably priced and they are at the forefront of the local market, this is what South Africans like to drink on a regular basis. We were impressed with the Mooiplaas and the Raats, both faultless, enjoyable and great with food. Some of the newer releases were a bit soft on acidity, others a little bitter but generally an easy drinking category.
More canapés circulated. Carpaccio of beef
Arancini or Suppli rice balls
There were two tables of Barrel Fermented wines from 2014 and 2015. On the first table The De Morgenzon and the Tierhoek really impressed us but the Beaumont Hope Marguerite knocked our socks off. So layered, so complex, so giving, this is drinking perfectly now and is Lynne's favourite wine of the Week. Many people at the tasting agreed. A good table with excellent wines
Mussels with salad
The second table of Barrel Fermented Chenins was a bit more of a challenge. The Charles Everson impressed, the Deetlefs will but it is in hiding at the moment; the Mulderbosch was interesting, we think it also needs time for its character to develop
Then to the wines with some age. A great category as Chenin does seem to get better and better with age. The Cederberg Five Generations 2014 is full of fruit acidity and almonds, always impressive; The Rudera Robusto 2008 is honeyed, smooth, very attractive. The 2011 Rijk's Reserve is still holding onto fresh acidity and character; The 2013 Uitkyk is as new! Still showing wood and fresh acidity, very much a food wine. The 2013 FMC is shy on the nose but has layers of sweet perfumed fruit on the palate, with some smoky wood and, as expected, is very good. The Spioenkop 2013 is drinking well, also with good layers for food pairing; the Bosman Optenhorst 2013 is honeyed with crisp acidity, almost NLH in character
Soup topped with popcorn
Then to the blends. Riebeek’s Short Street Chenin, Viognier and Grenache is good drinking with layers of fruit from old vines and a bargain at R50 a bottle. Marvellous Yellow does indeed have yellow fruit, nice acidity and perfume and is a merry mix of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Muscat De Frontignan, Semillon for texture and Clairette Blanche. We liked it
Thea van der Merwe of Jordan with Marvel Ou Adam Mason
Marlvin Gwese, Cape Grace's Sommelier with Mooiplaas viticulturalist Tielman Roos
Lady winemakers Kristin Basson of Fleur du Cap and Hanneke Botha of DeMorgenzon
 And finally three delicious, excellent Dessert Wines. This is the class that the French judges at the Old Mutual Trophy said we can throw down the gauntlet with, especially to Europe: Radford Dale 2013 (Winery of Good Hope), vine dried, is sheer honey in a glass with RS of 201 g/l; Ken Forrester's 'T' 2011 NLH, picked in May of that year, is barrel fermented and full of peaches, apricots, apples and spice. Fresh acidity of 9.5 g/l and lovely sweetness with an RS of 154 g/l. And finally Tierhoek's NV Straw wine from old vines has all you would expect from such a well balanced and well behaved wine with the three necessities of a concentrated sweet wine: Acidity, sweetness and flavour T A 7.6 g/l and RS 272.8 g/l It was obviously popular, as both bottles were finished first
A display of small friandise and mini desserts, very tempting and great with the three dessert wines
Public Relations specialist Nicolette Waterford with Ina Smith
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016