Monday, March 27, 2017

Tourists for a day in our own town - a bus ride to Hout Bay

We decided to take the bus to Hout Bay and behave like tourists this week. We love the MyCiti bus, it has transformed getting round Cape Town and the routes are growing daily. We topped up our cards (you need to buy them beforehand and they are available at various venues in your neighbourhood. Check out the website. We met our friends at a Sea Point bus stop at 10h55. Sadly, the timetable information Lynne was given on the phone by Enquiries was wrong and we missed the first bus by five minutes, but there was another along in 20 minutes. You can check the timetables online too, but we don't find them very user friendly. You can deposit money onto the MyCiti card and use it if you need cash. You can't board the bus without it. They don't take cash
There are two Hout Bay buses, the 109 goes to the Harbour side, the 108 to the Chapman's Peak end. We took the 108, direction Hangberg, to the harbour
It is a lovely trip along the coast road and takes about half an hour. Here we are passing through Camps Bay, also worth a stop
Looking lovely on a weekday morning
Time to chat and enjoy the scenery
Past the tourist spots and the curio vendors on Victoria Road, just beyond Bakoven
We arrive and Lynne points out some of the sights
Mariners Wharf
This has a small collection of shops and restaurants
The creamy white sandy beach stretched before us
A street trader with remarkable bead work
Dunes, a pub restaurant on the beach across the bay, is one of our favourite haunts
Paddle surfing, a fairly new and now very popular sport
The colourful fishing fleet in the harbour
We explored the Pearl shop and bought some presents to take home
Watching the gulls
John remarked: "Well, he is not going to get another ship..."
Hout Bay declared itself a Republic several years ago. It's a rather fun tourist initiative
Inside Mariners Wharf fish shop with a selection of fish under plastic. We were distressed to see that they sell live crayfish, which are now so endangered that they are on the SASSI wwfsassi.co.za/ red list and we are all being asked NOT to buy them. They have a sign prohibiting photography. Perhaps this is why
Salted dried snoek, a local fish
Although feeding the seals in the harbour by hand is not allowed, the tourists love it, so it continues
The seals are tame and beguiling, "Kiss me dammit!"
But they can be very dangerous
Fish head stew anyone?
A huge catch of hake had just been landed at the public fisheries. This is where to buy fish in the harbour, fresh and filleted to your specification. Most of this will end up in the local fish and chip shops today
These ladies are very skilled and have years of experience
The NSRI building; it housess the lifeboats and the Atlantic Boat Club. Above it is Hangberg, which means "hanging on the mountain". It's a local township, where locals (many involved in the fishing industry) have lived for a long time
Gulls waiting for fish scraps
Up on the Hangberg, a luxury home that must have been very threatened by the recent mountain fire which came very close to it
We now begin our walk along the beach, intending to go for a draught beer at Dunes. Sadly, it was so close to lunch time that we passed and moved to our lunch destination. Next time.
It was a beautiful hot day and the hot air and cold sea made lots of mist that came into the bay.
It's a dog's paradise
Mine!
A fishing boat heading out of harbour
Into the mist
This is where we were heading for lunch, the Chapman's Peak Hotel on the other side of the bay
The sea mist creeps up the warm mountainside where it drops welcome moisture
The view behind us, where we had just left. You can see how bad was the fire on the mountain earlier in the year
The tourist cruise boat Nauticat coming in to harbour after a trip to Seal Island. John was involved with sponsoring it in the 90s
We disturbed these gulls on our walk. Young, just fledged kelp gulls, losing their baby plumage and learning the skills of flying
Lovely to watch
The Leopard on the rock at Flora Bay. This sculpture has been on the rock since March 1963, a gift from Ivan Mitford Barberton (a local sculptor). The bronze leopard is in memory of the last leopard sighted in the area in 1930 and a reminder of the wild life that used to roam these mountains
A family enjoying the beach. The sea is a marvellous colour, a range of blues
We arrived at the newly painted Chapman's Peak Hotel at 1, just in time for lunch
A table with a view of the Sentinel mountain
It is very popular with locals and with tourists. They don't take bookings, so come early at the weekend if you want a table
The menu
A bottle of Adi Badenhorst's Secateurs Chenin blanc 2016, served by a lovely lady named Temperance
We ordered one serving to share of one of the specialities of the hotel, Peri Peri chicken livers, which we wanted our friends to taste; we converted them. These tender, hot and spicy livers with a Portuguese slant, are superb
Three of us had the succulent calamari, so well cooked, which comes in a light crisp batter, with lemon, and a side portion of golden crisp chips. One of the best places to eat calamari in Cape Town, as well as other seafood and fresh fish. It is a large portion. You can also have it as a starter
John went big with the combo of Steak in a red wine garlic and chilli sauce with calamari
Dessert was not manageable, but a local speciality, a Kahlua Dom Pedro (Kahlua liqueur blitzed with vanilla ice cream) was enjoyed by Peter. It's a uniquely South African experience and you can vary the alcohol
We had good double espressos
 The bill
The sea mist envelopes the Sentinel as we set off to catch the bus home
Chapman's Peak Hotel
The hotel has a deli and wine shop nearly next door
The bus terminus for the 109 back to town
You pass Kronendal, a National Monument in Hout Bay, which houses a very good Thai restaurant, Kitima
and Imizamo Yethu, the huge Hout Bay township which, tragically, had a devastating fire the previous weekend that displaced over 15 000 people, who lost their shack homes. Tragically, three people died. The people of Cape Town came to the rescue with huge aid to help with the loss of all their possessions. Food was provided, and a place to sleep. The City Council is now helping to re-block and rebuild the township so that fire engines and other emergency vehicles can get through in future. The shacks are normally built too closely together
Llandudno beach is another to visit, but go by car. The bus only stops at the top! Take a picnic; there are no shops or restaurants, it is purely residential
A popular view of our glorious Cape Town coastline. It was a lovely day out

Wine Concepts Chenin and Pinotage at The Vineyard

Chenin Blanc and Pinotage shone at the Wine Concepts Celebration
Last Friday saw us at Wine Concepts’ Chenin Blanc and Pinotage Celebration at the Vineyard Hotel. A chance to taste new and older vintages of both of these varietals which are such an important part of the South African wine portfolio, to network and to meet and taste the wines of a few new (to us) producers. Chenin blanc continues on its climb to the top of South Africa's white grape varieties. It can do so much, show a huge variety of different styles; it ages superbly and it suits our climate, varied as that may be at the moment. The same could be said of Pinotage, although it struggles to gain respect from people who don't know or understand it, receives less exposure, less lauding and, sadly, the amount planted seems to be in decline. Pinotage shows its stellar face when it has some age and is treated much like its parent Pinot noir in the vineyard and cellar. Cynics who taste it blind often pick it as their favourite wine of the tasting after dismissing it as an oddity beforehand. Lynne concentrated on tasting the Chenins, John cherry picked both varietals. It was impossible to taste them all; there were 88 wines on show
Simonsig's Francois-Jacques Malan with their Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé MCC 2015 made from 80% Pinotage, the balance being Pinot noir and Pinot meunier. It is delicious and we enjoyed a bottle with friends last night
Lanzerac GM Barend Barnard pours a glass of Lanzerac's new release Chenin blanc, a delicious example of the new direction Lanzerac is taking under the direction of winemaker Wynand Lategan
Wine Concepts MD Michael Bampfield Duggan, the originator and host of the show
Mother and daughter Old Vines team, Irina von Holdt CWM and Francoise Botha. Irina put Chenin back on the map in the early 90s with her Old Vine Chenin in a blue bottle. The varietal does so many things so well that it was abused, disrespected and neglected. Irina saved some wonderful old vineyards from destruction and started the resurgence of Chenin as South Africa's flagship white grape
Creamy mussels and vegetables, always a great partner for Chenin
Keelyn Gibbons from Mulderbosch with the superb Mulderbosch Steen op Hout
Emma Borg with her Painted Wolf range. A percentage of the money earned from the sale of these wines goes to an Endangered Wildlife Trust research programme for the conservation of the endangered African wild dog (Lycaon Pictus or Painted wolf). Delicious wines with a mission
Mini hamburgers to line the stomach and ease hunger pangs
Remhoogte's range includes one of Lynne's favourite Chenins, Honeybush Chenin blanc, rich, full and, as the name says, honeyed with a touch of botrytis
 Diaan van Zyl and Cellarmaster Chris Boustred of Remhoogte
Allee Bleue wines shown by Carol Maggs and Brian Smith
A new range of wines from Antebellum in the Swartland. The eponymous flavour of the Petrolhead suggested a bit of Weisser Riesling in the blend

Bellingham cellarmaster Niel Groenewald pours a glass of the Bernard Series Old Vine Chenin blanc. Hints of apple an citrus with a little toasty vanilla. Made by a winemaker with a great understanding of balanced flavours
A mild vegetable curry served by The Vineyard. Pinotage is a great match for spicy foods
Michele Stewart and Andrea Erwee showed the Fable Mountain wines from Tulbagh
The Fable Mountain Jackal Bird white blend comprises 41% Chenin Blanc, 18% Grenache Blanc; 17% Chardonnay 14% Viognier; and 10% Roussanne. Complex and full-flavoured
More spicy food to match the Pinotage: a small bobotie
Mandy and Jeremy Walker of Grangehurst discuss their iconic Pinotage with Kevin Gleeson. A touch (10%) of Cabernet sauvignon adds a serious dimension
Sushi with a splash of soy. Just the thing to go with a glass of Chenin
Karen Steytler of Kaapzicht  showed their comprehensive range of Chenins and Pinotages. The Kaapzicht Kliprug Chenin Blanc 2015 (from the 1947 vineyard) is elegant with a full complex nose and is crisp and dry on the palate. Sadly, the excellent flagship Steytler Pinotage is sold out, but the quality of the Kaapzicht wines always makes a great impression
Jon Meinking of I Shot Images caught in the act of photographing Barend Barnard
Longridge's lovely Chenins relaxing in a bath of Pinotage (someone spilled a bottle). The Longridge 2014 Chenin Blanc has lots of wood on the palate which should become less evident after a couple of years
Lynne bought a case of each of the two wines that impressed her the most: Stofberg's Mia Chenin Blanc 2016 from Rawsonville is tongue tingling, exciting and the Migliarina 2015 Chenin Blanc has an elegant, smooth, full mouth feel and a long, long end. She was also impressed with the Wild Ferment Chenin Blanc from Delheim, full and rich and long. The Mulderbosch Steen op Hout, made by Adam Mason, is rich and complex and his own Marvelous is full of apples and pears. A new farm for us was Wildehurst. Their 2015 Chenin Blanc with white peach and pear and a touch of salt  evolves as you taste it

Ginny Povall's Botanica 2014 Chenin (a Platter 5 star) has a perfect acid fruit balance with a note of honey on the end. Rijks Reserve Chenin 2013 from old vines is concentrated and full, with honey notes as well. It always impresses us and the winemaker, Pierre Wahl is, deservedly, current Diners Club Winemaker of the Year
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017