Wednesday, May 10, 2017

This Week’s MENU. Old Mutual Trophy Feedback, Big Breakfast at Liquorice and Lime, Lunch at The Vine Bistro, Glenelly, Wade Bales Meet the Makers Constantia Festival, Buitenverwachting Maximus 2014, Guava Fool

Winter waves, Sea Point

The waves are a signal. The weather is rapidly getting cooler, extra blankets on the bed. Winter is here. Much needed rain has been promised but has not arrived, just a few grace notes from the sky; too little to measure in the rain gauge. We hope the promise is not false, our water situation is dire. The temperature drops dramatically when the sun goes down and we are lighting fires in our little cast iron stove on some nights; not needed on others but the tinge of autumn is on the hills. John is even thinking about wearing long trousers in the daytime, while Lynne is wrapped up in polar fleece. The hibernation gene rears its head in some. The city has woken up to the fact that we only have 20% left in the dams. As the last 10% is sloppy mud, we are in trouble. Some prophesy a winter of such abundant rain that we will have floods. Farmers are not so sure; they see signs of another dry winter and the prospect of slim harvests next year. We live with hope, but not for a deluge



Old Mutual Trophy Feedback     
Held again at Grande Roche on Friday, this valuable feedback session where the judges, local and international, give their impressions of the wines they have tasted and have finished judging earlier that morning. The Feedback session is open to all entrants and the wine industry as a whole. We find this a very good barometer of where the industry is at present. We hear where there have been improvements, what has impressed or underperformed and if there are any new trends. More about the feedback......

The Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show Judges
The Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show judging panel comprises three international and six local judges covering a broad range of expertise and working with a 100-point scoring system. The panel has been chaired by leading wine authority Michael Fridjhon since the inception of the show in 2002. The participation of a team of associate panelists, drawn from the pool of rising South African wine-making, wine marketing and wine-writing talent, ensures that the next generation of the country’s wine judges gains experience in this most rigorous of environments. See the biographies.....

Big Breakfast at Liquorice and Lime     
This small restaurant at the very top of Kloof Street in Oranjezicht was our next destination on Sunday morning. John could not accompany Lynne and our friends as he was guiding a wine tour for some Americans in Stellenbosch and he missed something. Not only are there some novel choices on the menu, the portions are some of the largest we have ever been served. Read on....




Lunch at The Vine Bistro, Glenelly     
John thought you might like to see pictures of the lunch at Glenelly on Sunday where he took his tour clients. They have a three course set menu on Sundays. You can do a wine tasting and see the famous glass museum. What a lovely setting to have lunch





Wade Bales’ Meet the Makers Constantia Festival     
Wade Bales thought that they would sell 500 tickets to this local festival; they sold 750, making it a very popular event. It was held in the grounds of his Wine Society premises in Constantia. A marquee had been erected as the weather was looking a bit iffy, but it was not needed. Five wine producers, one beer and four spirit producers had stands. Wade also showed his own wines and there were a few food producers to buy for lunch from: an Indian/Mexican food truck (curried quesadillas!), a cheese stand, bread, a chocolatier and a charcuterie stand. More here......



MENU’s Wine of the week. Buitenverwachting Maximus 2014 
Wooded Sauvignon Blanc - a category which impressed the judges at the Old Mutual Trophy judging. A chameleon wine with lots of complexity, depth and character. At first so rich and full that you do not see the wood, then you notice vanilla and some smoke. Initially floral on the palate with jasmine, melon, apricots then ripe figs and nuts, then crisp limes and orange zest and right on the finish the Constantia green capsicum appears. Such a good food wine. We had this with spicy goulash, which did not occlude the wine at all. Even with a syrupy dessert it also shone. 15 months on wood. R250 from Wade Bales. Wine Spectator scored the 2009 Maximus 93 Points. Platter gave the 2013 4½ stars. We love the 2014







This week's MENU recipe is Guava Fool    
It’s Guava season and this is so quick and easy to make. We hope you find it as delicious as we do

1 Kg ripe guavas, peeled and chopped - juice of half a lemon – 75g caster sugar - 300ml water -
250 ml thick Ayrshire cream or real vanilla custard

Put everything into an enamel pan (don’t use metal - guavas are too acidic) and poach until the guavas are soft, this only takes about 10 to 15 minutes. Taste and, if it is not sweet enough, add a little more sugar. Mash and push through a sieve to remove all the pips; cool in the fridge, then stir in the cream. (At this point you can freeze the mixture for guava ice cream). Put into a pretty glass bowl and decorate the top with two amaretto biscuits and a few pieces of glacé fruit or maraschino cherries






10th May 2017
PS If a word or name is in bold type and underlined, click on it for more information
Phones: +27 21 439 3169 / 083 229 1172 / 083 656 4169
Postal address: 60 Arthurs Rd, Sea Point 8005
If you like the photographs you see in our publications, please look at our Adamastor Photo website for our rate card and samples from our portfolio
Recommendations of products and outside events are not solicited or charged for, and are made at the authors’ pleasure. All photographs, recipes and text used in these newsletters and our blogs are © John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus. Our restaurant reviews are usually unsolicited. We prefer to pay for our meals and not be paid in any way by anyone. Whether we are invited or go independently, we don’t feel bad if we say we didn’t like it. Honesty is indeed our best policy. While every effort is made to avoid mistakes, we are human and they do creep in occasionally, for which we apologise. This electronic journal has been sent to you because you have personally subscribed to it or because someone you know has asked us to send it to you or forwarded it to you themselves. Addresses given to us will not be divulged to any person or organisation. We collect them only for our own promotional purposes. If you wish to be added to our mailing list, please click here to send us a message and if you wish to be removed from our mailing list, please click here to send us a message.
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© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017
Posted by MENU at 1:02 am 0 comments

The Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show Judges

The Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show judging panel comprises three international and six local judges covering a broad range of expertise and working with a 100-point scoring system. The panel has been chaired by leading wine authority Michael Fridjhon since the inception of the show in 2002

The participation of a team of associate panelists, drawn from the pool of rising South African wine-making, wine marketing and wine-writing talent, ensures that the next generation of the country’s wine judges gains experience in this most rigorous of environments.
·       Michael Fridjhon


 Show Chairman

Chairman of the judges at the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show. Author, co-author and contributor to a number of wine books including The Oxford Companion to Wine, The Global Wine Encyclopaedia, and Platter’s South African Wine Guide. Recipient of the Chevalier de l’Ordre du Merite Agricole (France). Judge at numerous competitions including the Australian National Wine Show, the Six Nations Wine Challenge (Australia) as well as benchmark tastings in France, the United States, Chile and South Africa. First international co-chairman of the International Wine Challenge (2007). Visiting Professor of Wine Business at the University of Cape Town’s Graduate School of Business and head of the Wine Judging Academy run in association with the University of Cape Town’s Graduate School of Business. Winner of the Louis Roederer International Wine Columnist of the Year award (2012).

Neil Beckett

International Judge

Neil Beckett holds a first class honours degree in English and Medieval History (University of St Andrews, Scotland), a doctorate in Medieval History (Magdalen College, Oxford) and completed an MBA with a dissertation on White Burgundy. He was a Centenary Fellow of the Royal Historical Society (University of London), worked at Lay & Wheeler wine merchants and took top prize in the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Diploma, before going on to Harpers Wine & Spirit Weekly. In 2004 he became the first editor of The World of Fine Wine, a British quarterly publication for wine enthusiasts and collectors, which won the Louis Roederer Award for International Wine Publication of the Year all three years the title was awarded (2012 to 2014). He also edited the seven titles in the Finest Wines book series, published by University of California Press, and 1001 Wines to Try Before You Die. Beckett is a member of the Grand Jury Européen and was a judge for the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show in 2007.

Eduardo Brethauer

International Judge: Chile

Based in Santiago, Eduardo Brethauer is an independent wine writer and taster.  He studied wine marketing at the University of Viña del Mar and is a former journalist for the Chilean wine industry.  Owner and wine editor at Vitis Magazine, Chile’s only technical magazine, he is author of the popular guide Vinos con Cuento and is a member of The Circle of Wine Writers and Cronistas Gastronómicos de Chile. With the objective of raising interest in wines from less prominent regions of the world, Brethauer is the founder of Vignadores de Carignan, an association of producers that reintroduces viticultural traditions of more than four centuries in Maule Valley. Judge at several international wine competitions including the Six Nations Wine Challenge.

Heidi Mäkinen

International Judge: UK

Finnish-born 29 year-old Heidi Mäkinen is one of the top ten sommeliers in the world, having been placed eighth in the 2016 Best Sommelier of the World Contest. A meteoric career trajectory has seen her advance from 3rd place in the National Young Sommelier Competition in 2010 to first place in that competition and Best Sommelier in Finland in 2015. She is presently a senior sommelier at private members’ wine club 67 Pall Mall in London. A WSET Level 4 (with merit) diploma recipient, Mäkinen is also currently a Master of Wine student.
·       Narina Cloete

SA Judge

Winemaker at Blaauwklippen Agricultural Estate. An Honours BSc Agriculture (Oenology) cum laude graduate from Stellenbosch University. Completed harvests at Glen Carlou, Dornier, AA Badenhorst Family Wines and Stellenzicht. Joined Quoin Rock Winery in 2008 as assistant winemaker and was winemaker there from 2010 until 2014. She has served on judging panels of South Africa’s Young Wine Show, FNB Top 10 Sauvignon Blanc, the new Cape Vintners Classification, Blaauwklippen Blending Competition and Veritas Awards. Distinction graduate of the Michael Fridjhon Wine Judging Academy in 2013 and attended the advanced Wine Judging Academy in 2014. Trophy Wine Show associate judge in 2013, 2014 and 2016.

Heidi Duminy CWM

SA Judge

Cape Wine Master and wine communications specialist recognised for her particular expertise in Champagne and sparkling wine. Formerly Group Communications manager for DGB, Brand Manager for Veuve Clicquot and Krug and then Trade Marketing Manager of the LVMH portfolio of Champagnes and spirits. Currently National Marketing Manager for Meridian Wine Merchants. Chaired Classic Wine Magazine’s Cap Classique panel and has judged sparkling wine for Veritas since 2011.  Associate judge at the Trophy Wine Show in 2012, 2014 and 2015 and judge in 2016. Lectures for the Cape Wine Academy and writes and presents under HeidiVine Communications. Distinction graduate of the Michael Fridjhon Wine Judging Academy in 2011 and Advanced Wine Judging Academy attendee in 2014.

Christian Eedes

SA Judge

Co-owner and editor of Winemag.co.za, freelance wine writer contributing to Decanter and other titles on an occasional basis. He completed a small-scale winemaking programme run by Stellenbosch University’s Department of Viticulture and Oenology and is a graduate of the inaugural Michael Fridjhon Wine Judging Academy. Further experience includes judging for the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show (2007 to 2014 and 2016) and Platter’s South African Wine Guide in addition to various other local and international competitions.
·          

Nkulu Mkhwanazi

SA Judge

Durban-based wine educator and KZN wine ambassador for Creation Wines, Crystallum, Remhoogte, Gabriëlskloof and Oldenburg. Chaired the UCT Wine Society in 2005. In 2009 founded the 031 Wine Society.  Founded the Shamase Wine Corp and the Johannesburg Wine Series (monthly themed tastings) in 2010. Chairman of the Highway Wine Society, Durban’s oldest wine club, since July 2014. Judge at the RECM 10 Year Old Wine Awards in 2013. Graduated with distinction from the Michael Fridjhon Wine Judging Academy in 2011 and attended the Advanced Wine Judging Academy in 2014. Completed a certificate in small scale winemaking from the University of Stellenbosch in 2015 and WSET Level 3 in 2016.  Trophy Wine Show associate judge from 2011 to 2014 and judge in 2015 and 2016.

James Pietersen

SA Judge

SA Portfolio Manager for Wine Cellar. Previously Head Sommelier for the Slick Restaurant Group and a former wine buyer for the Vineyard Connection. Graduated with distinction at the Michael Fridjhon Wine Judging Academy in 2007 and attended the Advanced Wine Judging Academy in 2014. A taster for Platter’s South African Wine Guide and Winemag.co.za panelist. A previous board member of SASA (South African Sommelier Association).  Trophy Wine Show judge in 2008, 2009 and from 2012 until 2015.

François Rautenbach

SA Judge


Heads up the ‘Singita Premier Wine Direct’ programme for Singita Game Reserves, sourcing and supplying wines for the Singita properties in Southern and East Africa. Deeply invested in hospitality having lived and worked in Africa, France, U.K. and Australia – always with emphasis on food and wine excellence.  Cape Wine Academy Diploma graduate.  Graduated with distinction at the Michael Fridjhon Wine Judging Academy in 2008, served as associate judge at the Trophy Wine Show that year and has been a senior judge at the show since 2011.  Attended the Michael Fridjhon Advanced Wine Judging Academy in 2014

Information supplied by the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show
Posted by MENU at 12:38 am 0 comments

Tuesday, May 09, 2017

This week's MENU recipe is Guava Fool

It's Guava season and this is so quick and easy to make. We hope you find it as delicious as we do.
1 Kg ripe guavas, peeled and chopped - juice of half a lemon – 75g caster sugar - 300ml water -
250 ml thick Ayrshire cream or real vanilla custard
Put everything into an enamel pan (don’t use metal - guavas are too acidic) and poach until the guavas are soft, this only takes about 10 to 15 minutes. Taste and, if it is not sweet enough, add a little more sugar. Mash and push through a sieve to remove all the pips; cool in the fridge, then stir in the cream. (At this point you can freeze the mixture for guava ice cream.) Put into a pretty glass bowl and decorate the top with two amaretto biscuits and a few pieces of glacé fruit or maraschino cherries

Posted by MENU at 10:38 pm 0 comments

Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show feedback at The Grande Roche

Held again at Grande Roche on Friday, this valuable feedback session where the judges, local and international, give their impressions of the wines they have tasted and have finished judging earlier that morning. The session is open to all entrants and the wine industry as a whole. We find this a very good barometer of where the industry is at present. We hear where there have been improvements, what has impressed or underperformed and if there are any new trends

We like to get there early so we can chat to the judges informally before the session to see what their thoughts are
The morning is broken by a good glass of bubbly. Or coffee or tea
A good selection ....
... of local entries into the MCC category
Tired judges who have just finished judging the trophy wines
Judges James Pietersen (The Wine Cellar) and Nerina Cloete (winemaker at Blaauwklippen)

Meeting Michael Fridjhon, who says it is time to start
Janice Fridjhon the Outsorceress genie, who puts this all together with help from her band of willing and able assistants
Judges getting ready to report
Proceedings were opened by Michael FridjhonMore wines were entered this year than they ever expected. They have just completed the four days of tasting . On Monday, which was a public holiday they had a tasting of older South African wines 1966 was the oldest vintage. This give the foreign judges a chance to see what the wines can become. The South African market has no confidence of wines older than five years , we need to encourage and train them, especially the younger drinkers, to wait and see what can happen in the bottle over time, and the industry needs to know what they can pack into the bottles to make them last. The panels working together is so important that they agree on precision and levels of quality. The industry is moving into a new space: the young guns and wild cards and the old guys are all giving wine better attention and have produced a lovely array of good examples. A broad range of styles made gold comfortably. The industry has lifted its game across the board, there is diversity across the wide range of terroirs and regions. There is much better use of wood , more carefully handled. There were fewer museum class wines with trophies and golds despite the higher entry. Does this mean the past is not as good as the present?
Michael took this chance to thank all the regular helpers who work tirelessly behind the scenes to make this competition work so well
Then it was the turn of the Judges to comment on what they tasted. Each judge will taste in three or four different panels . The audience waits in anticipation. There were three International Judges. See the judges profiles here. ***
First to speak was Eduardo Brethauer from Chile
He said that he had found this competition to be the most fair and respectful in all the world and he has done competitions in 30 different countries . He especially likes the way that wine is discussed amongst the judges and controversy is allowed. It is his first time in South Africa He is impressed how much better wines are now than 20 years ago, He tasted Sparkling wines, Sauvignon Blancs and sweet wines and was amazed. His advice to our industry: Don't market the wood, show the fruit, not the wood, let the fruit escape the sun, especially in the afternoons. Always be honest and original , don't try to be something you are not. And don't make Pinotage like Cabernets, or over wood it. Much had to much wood, show the fruit, the cultivates, vineyards, the climate and the personality.
Heidi Mäkinen 
Also her first visit to South Africa. She agreed with Eduardo about how good the wine show arrangements are. Timing is always hard. People here are amazing, the rigorous competition is so honest and good. She confessed she did not know much of our industry. This week has changed her shallow opinions. She tasted white wines, Pinot Noir and nice varietals.. One category has risen - Chardonnays, they are doing a great job. She doesn't know the bad old over wooded ones. Very distinctive styles here. Good use of oak, not promoting the French tonneliers. Good acidity, good grape handling, really thrilling wines. Oaked Sauvignon Blancs also good with great balance and aromas, piercing acidity softened by good oaking.
Francois Rautenbach
He reiterates what Heidi says. Impressions over the last few years have made for a steep pyramid. Top class good value with purity and delicacy very exciting. Sauvignon Blancs with real personality. A small entry of wooded ones, very exciting at the top end, now we must bring the quality downwards. Put money into vineyards and not the woo. Of the merlot category he was impressed with the light colours, more rose petals than dark black wine, moving along in quality for the top ones. Advice on 2016 Sauvignons: sell them as quickly as you can. Shiraz not massively over developed, good consistency
Nkulu Mkhwanazi 
Impressed but shortcomings on the Cabernet Francs. An exciting variety but very few have elegance, purity and finesse Too much oak, not focussed. Cabernets were an exciting strong category , lots of competition. Some smartly made with big elegance finesse and intensity. Chenin Blanc great examples but diverse, judges had to pay attention to the different styles. Chardonnays in the medal class were really amazing, especially the museum class. Grande Roche is a very comfortable venue for he competition
Heidi Duminy MW chaired the Bubbly panel. 
The class showed so well, there is a track record and impressive how far they have progressed in a short time, growing in double digits. Stand out wines, with purity of fruit, the new style of glasses really helps the MCCs. Chardonnays are showing the best,. Lovely lees are showing, patience is needed, there is gorgeous freshness of fruit. We need to look at the work the Pinot Noir isn't doing, it is not adding much to the wine. She liked the smile on Eduardo's face, he was impressed. A quote: The only pain I can bear is Champagne"
Nerina Cloete
A great show. From a wine makers perspective Sauvignon Blanc challenging this year - follow what you know. We can make beautiful Chardonnay and she liked the Pinot Noirs. Sees people putting layers into white blends. Wooded Sauvignon Blancs -stunning to see the effect of wood on this grape.
Neil Becket 
commented how good the show is and how well conceived . More excited at the huge progress in our wines. He is as excited as everyone with the Chardonnays. The Pendulum has swung too far worldwide in reductive wines. The best wines avoid it and find the sweet spot in the middle. Red wines the best improved were the Bordeaux blends and Cabernets . There is an advance in judgement, how the wine is made, less oak, better fruit and acids are better than 10 years ago. More wines had their own balance and people are not frightened of green herbs and pyrazines. Rather that than grapes are pushed to over ripeness and then added acid is needed to balance. There are some outstanding world class wines in the Cabernets and Bordeaux class.
James Pietersen
This is his 8th year as a judge. Lots of fun with the international judges. There is such diversification of SA wines , a willingness to experiment, to have more fun, new varietals being tested and used with good results. Lots of excitement with wines using Duro, Rhone and Italian varietals. The market movement from heavy extracted wines with tannins to ore playful delicate wines with more detailing offer more drinking pleasure.
Christian Eedes 
says he usually plays the Bad Cop. Chardonnay showed exceptionally well, it's a great grape which in South Africa responds well to the right site and good wine making. 20 Pinot Noirs were exciting, 200 Pinotages were generally dreadful, it has got stuck again. Different industry sectors with new wave Pinot Noir. Old school Pinotages are not showing sensitivity, thoughtfulness too ambitious, overdone, ham-fisted We need to encourage a lightness of touch. Leaf roll virus and the drought are badly affecting the industry. We must take a view: is Cabernet the best grape to plant in drought affected areas? No. In the cool climate areas Pinot Noir producers are working really hard. There are 2 or 3 golds in the Pinotage class so there are people who are applying some thoughtfulness, they are a small minority.
During the short question time Eduardo was asked what he thought of Pinotage: Scary, so difficult to understand, made in so many different directions, so concentrated green, over extracted. He is looking for subtlety, difficult to find gently and light wines they are there we need to go deeper. John asked should we be more area specific with them? Christian - still traumatised, said its not about the site. Nadia said approach is the issue, the style that is being produced is not helping the glass, huge black fruit with tarry oak, not commercial. Eduardo added: they are not getting awards from the judges. The top ten however might get a Trophy.
Tips please asked someone in the audience about Blanc Fumé - wooded Sauvignon Blancs. Support with oak but not too much, and only a limited amount of new wood. Use good Sauvignon Blanc, your best, intense wines from the best sites but only use a small percentage and experiment with it and the size of barrels . Start small, use and work the lees, but don't roll the barrels, lay a bit. Now we are going to need a new category for wooded Sauvignon Blancs, a new Trophy.
Wood was used sometimes in the past to cover up problems . This is not happening how Francois said personality comes with time, oak is a supporting role.
Was there excitement on Chenin it was asked? The wines were exiting with good acidity and brightness of fruit. Spontaneous ferment, vibrant attention grabbing wines. In no way were those overwhelmed by the Chardonnays.
What about the White Blends of Sauvignon Semillon , exotic Chenin blends, Rhone varietals. There is a very worthy trophy.
Sweeter wines, Port style? The quality is superlative, every bit as good as 10 years ago, but it is a struggling class worldwide, we must help it survive.
Funky flavours, naturally made wines vs old methods? James commented that they are not letting wines through that are weird and wonderful.
What about Rosé wines, what is the direction to go? Heidi Mäkinen said Rosé is trending worldwide, it should be taken seriously and made to pair with food with structure. Enough of that bulk in the world we need a restrained style, gentleness not over extracted and with good acidity. Christian commented that Rosé is not really a wine. 1 million litres to keep the business running, what is your intention? It is difficult to make a gold medal wine. How ambitious can you get? Grapes should be grown specifically, said Heidi. She commented that at 67 Pall Mall where she works they don't sell blush wines. Heidi Duminy said Rosé is the fasted growing market. There are a handful of seriously styles but they are few and an expensive niche with niche results. Its growing in the bubbly field too, with skin contact or a blend, the consumer expectation of fine rosé is delicate rather than full.

Michael's final comment was that wine is a middle class indulgence, it lubricates the wheels of the economy and is an important factor in it. It has been a good competition this year with lots of good wine
Leon Coetzee, The Fledge, discussing his wines with Eduardo Brethauer

Posted by MENU at 10:33 pm 0 comments

MENU's Wine of the Week. Buitenverwachting Maximus 2014

A chameleon wine with lots of complexity, depth and character. At first so rich and full that you do not see the wood, then you notice vanilla and some smoke. Initially floral on the palate with jasmine, melon, apricots then ripe figs and nuts, then crisp limes and orange zest and right on the finish the Constantia green capsicum appears. Such a good food wine

We had this with spicy goulash, which did not occlude the wine at all. Even with a syrupy dessert it also shone. 15 months on wood. R250 from Wade Bales. Wine Spectator scored the 2009 Maximus 93 Points. Platter gave the 2013 4½ stars. We love the 2014
Posted by MENU at 10:26 pm 0 comments
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