An
elegant evening with the Grier family of Villiera, held to launch their new
premium wine The Clan. It was held at The Stack in Gardens
We
were welcomed with a glass of their Monro Brut, Prestige Cuvée MCC
and
we were served this starter of very fresh line fish ceviche topped with a
rocher of lime panna cotta. It came with soused onions and thin slices of
cucumber. Fresh zingy and exciting, it matched their flagship MCC Monro Brut so
well. This has 60% Chardonnay with some Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and is
perfumed and yeasty on the nose, a lovely prickle, with crisp limes and lemons
and a good richness and complexity. Half the Chardonnay goes into older barrels
which gives complexity and maturation. The Pinot Noir has yeast contact. It
spends 5 years on the lees and 6 months to a year under cork. This is the 2011
and the 2012 will be released in a month or two
Then
it was time to take our places at the long table with the other guests and
members of the Grier Family
An
amusing opening by Cathy Grier CWM, who handles Sales and Marketing. She says that
it was time for the Clan to get together. The Grieg family have always worked
together. They are into their fourth generation as a family business.
Grandfather Grier arrived in South Africa from the United Kingdom in the 1920s.
He studied at Elsenberg and started a poultry business. The second generation
of Griers, Robin and Alexander Senior, took it a step further and were involved
in developing County Fair, added value poultry business and planted some
vineyards. The third generation, Jeff, Simon and Cathy, were more interested in
what to drink with poultry! Jeffery Monro Grier CWM is the Cellarmaster and his
cousin Simon Monro Grier, the viticulturist. Cathy (née Grier) Brewer CWM, is
Jeff's sister. Together they began working on the farm 35 years ago, in 1983. If memory is correct, they were the first brother and sister to earn the Cape Wine Master accolade. And they have now been joined by one of the 4th generation of Griers, Alexander
Monro Grier (Xander), winemaker and son of Chef and adventurer David Grier,
another cousin. Their other young wine maker is Nathan Valentine and he is not
related. That's how the clan works says Jeff
They
told us that we would be tasting two new wines. They are also working on a
super premium bubble, news of which will come later in the year. 35% of
Villiera’s wines are Méthode Cap Classique wines; they are well known for these
wines and they are very successful with them. But they felt that it was time
for a premium red wine
Jeff
told us that Xander is driving membership of the old vines project for their
vines. In 2015 they re-assessed the reserve wines. They know that they are
quality wines, but they must be different from other wines in the market to
continue competing. Part of the difference is using old vines, another is
quality and skill in the making of the wines
Their Sauvignon Blanc was not
different enough, so in 2016 they made a Blanc Fumé (a wooded Sauvignon Blanc) And
this is what we were now to taste
They
want to avoid malolactic fermentation, as they want freshness on this wine.
They wanted a wine to compliment food. And the wood gives more structure and
ageability. They use some new and some older barrels; the cigar shaped
elongated 300 litre barrels (similar to Port pipes) maximise lees contact and
enhance thiol characteristics in the wine. A portion of the grapes is fermented
whole and the wine spends six months in barrel and then six months in the
bottle before release. The 2017 is now available
We
found that it has richness and ripeness, lush fruit - golden melon, William
pear on the nose. On the palate, it has a slight prickle, good weight, loquat
and passion fruit first, then some green pepper, smoke and green apple on the
end
The
second dish was red and yellow beetroot served with creamed goats cheese,
always a good pairing and this was served with a square of intense verjuice
jelly
Next
we tasted the 2018 Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc. The wine is a blend from
three old blocks of Chenin, each picked at optimal ripeness and also some grapes
which were picked earlier. Some is fermented in ceramic eggs, some in 400 litre
new and used wood barrels, with some whole bunches and some skin contact. 40% of
the pick goes through malolactic fermentation for richness, the balance has
none to enhance freshness. It goes through natural fermentation (no added
yeast) and they do batonage. These grapes often have some botrytis, but there
was none in 2016 and 17 due to the drought. Smoke and gentle fruit on the nose,
a good mouthfeel, with lively limes and plums and there is a very satisfying
richness on this wine
Journalist
Fiona McDonald chatting to winemaker Alexander Grier
Dr
Johan Nel who is a serious wine buyer and a customer of Villiera
Journalist
Mel Minnaar with stylist Katinka Lombard
The
next wine we tasted was the Monro Merlot. Monro is one of the family names and
it is used on their Prestige reserve wine labels. We liked this wine so much
that it was our Wine of the Week last week. South Africa is not known for its
Merlots; much of it is grown in the wrong areas, we often pick the grapes too
early and the wines can be tough and harsh. But when they are made carefully
and well, they are just beautiful. It is said to be a feminine grape and a wine
that women prefer. We think that this will impress both sexes.
Made
by Jeff Grier, the wine so reminded us of a good St Emilion; lots of black
cherries and incense wood, with minerality and elegance. Richness is their
signature on red wines; this is lovely, velvety berry wine with good integrated
wood, ripe cherries and cassis berries, milk chocolate and not a single hint of
greenness. Long deep flavours of red plums follow with a little salty liquorice
and some nice chalky tannins. It calls out for food. Around R200 on the farm
We
had it with Pan seared duck breasts with Shiitake mushrooms in Pomme Purée
and a good rich jus
And
finally, the newest release, Their new super premium red, titled The Clan 2015.
An unusual and, we think, unique blend of 86% Cabernet Franc with 14% Carignan.
Bruléed berry fruit with violets, incense wood and richness on the nose, with
green cassis leaves, cassis, mulberries, forest floor & mushrooms ... and
something else ... which of course is the wildness of the Carignan. On the
palate, full & dark with cassis and mulberry, rhubarb and dark plums,
warmth, dark 90% chocolate and a little liquorice. This wine is complex,
structured, grippy and will last for many years. But it is drinking well now.
In heavy Stellenbosch bottles, the label has a tartan effect but is, in fact, a
grid of all of the family names and it is finished with an applied wax seal.
R850 a bottle on the farm
This
was paired with tender Springbok loin, baby carrots, and a potato fondant
Jeff
told us that he normally only uses Cabernet Franc for his Cape Wine Makers
Guild wines. The Clan reflects the close family unity and commitment to quality
that has sustained the Grier family of Villiera over decades in the wine
business. Attention to detail was foremost in their minds while creating and
packaging “The Clan” and no expense has been spared in creating this wine. Only
1400 bottles were produced. To blend a northern French grape with a Southern
varietal is unusual and it works. The Carignan portion will vary from 15 to 20
% each year. They have bottled the 2016 and next will be the 2017. It spends 18
months in barrel
Sister
and brother Cathy and Jeff Grier, leading members of this successful Clan
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2018
