Wednesday, February 12, 2020

Tasting wines in the Eagle's Nest, Constantia

A green and peaceful Eyrie. We visited Eagle’s Nest in Constantia this week on a beautiful summer morning. It is high on the Constantiaberg, next door to Constantia Glen on the way up to Constantia Nek. We had not been for a few years and, in the interim, talented wine maker Stuart Botha has departed for Tokara and Duran Cornhill has taken over as winemaker. A graduate of Stellenbosch University, he has worked at top international producers in Bordeaux and New Zealand. Duran started his career in the valley as the assistant winemaker of Klein Constantia, This will be his third vintage at  Eagle’s Nest and his wines are now for sale in retail outlets and in the tasting room. We were impressed. Martin Meinert has been consulting since 2001

The farm has been owned since 1984 by the Mylrea family. In 2000 the farm suffered a devastating forest fire and they lost all of the natural fynbos vegetation and protea plantings, as well as approximately 95% of their forest. They then decided to plant grapes and focus on wine. They have also invested in extensive replanting of the natural fynbos. They have very steep East, West and North facing slopes and it is the steepest commercially farmed land in the Cape region, if not in all of South Africa. Constantia is only 10.5 km from the coast and benefits so much from the sea breezes which help to cool the vineyards, and allow for slow, steady growth and ripening
We sat on the shaded terrace, just outside of the tasting room, and had a lovely view of tall, tall trees above us, with the wind whispering through them, beautiful birdsong, and it was rather Zen, so peaceful and green. They have much more seating than when we last visited and room for many people, who come and picnic on the lawn as well. They do platters and you can see the menu hereSadly, they don’t give prices, so you will have to phone the farm. Also, they say PLEASE NOTE ALL PLATTERS & EXTRAS NEED TO BE ACCOMPANIED BY  EAGLE’S' NEST WINES, naturally. Wine tastings cost R75 per person

Some specials on the black board
A view of the garden and the shaded seating with the pine trees behind
The view from the garden of the tasting room and terrace
The singing pines. If you are a birder, this is a place to visit. We think that we saw an eagle and we heard unfamiliar birdsong (to us!) which the staff could not identify either. They are very involved in the preservation of the rare Verreaux's eagle on the adjacent Table Mountain National Park
A woman of many talents and lots of knowledge of the  Eagle’s Nest wines; Shirley Vephile was charming and guided us seamlessly through our tasting of their five current wines. She managed to answer all our difficult questions. Sadly, the winemaker was not available to talk to us; we were told that he was harvesting. The harvest has begun in Constantia, as we discovered when we visited Buitenverwachting and tasted with cellarmaster Brad Paton last week. We shared a tasting, as we'd come to taste, not to drink!
The current wine list, with prices. They do sell the wines by the glass for enjoyment on the farm
Three of the wines are available in Magnums (double bottles) always useful for dinner parties or celebrations
We began with the 2019 Sauvignon Blanc. Eagle’s Nest does not grow Sauvignon Blanc, unlike many Constantia farms. It is one of the iconic Constantia varietals. The grapes are bought in from Darling and Durbanville and show all those great regional characteristics. Grassy green pepper pyrazines, a hint of salty minerality, floral with granadilla and guava notes on the nose. Smooth & warm on the palate with lots of granadilla and pineapple flavours, a good sugar acid balance too. Unwooded, the wine ends with good green pepper flavours. R115
We were very impressed with the 2018 Viognier; it is right up there with some of the very best in South Africa. Not heady and blousy, as some are, but elegant and refined with the perfume of jasmine, nectarine and apple. Lovely rounded palate, with lots of white peach and nectarine in layers. It has spent 6 months in older French oak barrels which have left just a hint on the end palate. Quite a sexy wine. R185. This is a 4.5 star wine in the Platter Guide
The 2017 Little Eagle Red is a blend of 75% Shiraz and 25% Cabernet Franc. We were told that it is their entry level red. It used to be a Bordeaux Blend, but Duran has changed to this warmer blend. Rich and complex on the nose, with spice, pepper and meaty notes. Soft on the palate initially with salty licorice and spice, then chalky tannins appear. Long, rich berry flavours and warm at 14% alcohol. While it is still quite young, this wine has all the components to develop into something very interesting. So it might be worth putting some away for drinking in three or four years. There is a hint of wood on the end. Good value at R125
The 2015 Merlot has had 8% Cabernet Franc added to it. It spends 18 months in French oak barrels; 40% new, the rest in second and third fill. Classic cherry merlot with incense wood on the nose. Richness, berry fruit and spicy wood and then the cherries arrive, filling one’s palate with deliciousness! It still has good acidity and needs some time to open up; decanting will be useful. Balsam, herbs, especially thyme, and chalk on the end palate. R185. This is a 4.5 star wine in the current Platter Guide
The final wine was the 2015 Shiraz, priced at R285. When it was launched, it was the first screw-topped wine we sold at more than R100 per bottle, but that was 15 years ago. Spice and dark Morello cherries on the nose, then in come blackcurrant, blueberries and a savoury hint of smoky bacon from the wood - the wine spends 20 months in 40% new French oak. Round, with intense fruit on the palate, it shows better on the palate than on the nose. Juicy berry fruit, licorice, black pepper, turmeric, dark oak and some salty minerality, with white pepper appearing on the end. This is deservedly a 4.5 star wine in the Platter Guide and was one of the Top 12 SA Shirazes in competition
Thank you Eagle’s Nest and, especially, Shirley Vephile who gave us such kind hospitality and attention
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All content ©  John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus

Thursday, February 06, 2020

This Week’s MENU. Meze lunch at Mykonos, Buitenverwachting, Tzatziki, Buitenverwachting HusseysVlei Sauvignon

The Cape water lily, Nymphaea nouchali var. caerulea, is South Africa's most commonly grown indigenous water lily. This is in our koi pond

The harvest is active, more in the warmer areas than in cooler climes. Some warm areas have finished picking some varietals, others have picked for the bubbly, but are still a week or two from picking for the still wines. With all that activity, it has been very quiet on the PR front, but we can report on an interesting, new (to us) restaurant and one of our favourite, and one of the country's oldest, wine estates

In the 17 years since we started writing about our activities, we have published thousands of photographs

A portfolio of the best of these is building on a new website: https://JohnDuncanFord.youpic.com/
Have a look. We hope you’ll enjoy them


Vegetarian friends told us that they have been going to Mykonos in Camp Bay and how enjoyable the food was there, so we decided to meet them there for lunch last Saturday. Apparently it started as a take away, as they did not have serving staff, but that has changed and the staff are lovely and helpful and certainly have got the Hoppa! and other Greek phrases going. It is behind the PicknPay centre, right next to CodFather on the corner of Camps Bay Drive and The Drive. There is parking available in the area, in the centre in front, but definitely not on Beach Road!  Read on…


We discovered that it had been three years since we last visited Buitenverwachting in Constantia, so an invitation from Cellarmaster Brad Paton to come and taste some of his wines with him was gratefully accepted. And very much appreciated, as he is in the middle of what looks like a successful harvest. The farm Buitenverwachting (it means beyond expectation) originally formed part of the Constantia Estate, which was founded 1679 by Simon van der Stel, the first Governor of the new Dutch Cape colony. Buitenverwachting as a separate entity dates back to 1769. It is owned by the Mueller family and Lars Maack, son of Mrs Christine Mueller, is joint owner & the Managing Director.  Read on…


Tzatziki is easy to make and goes well with Greek food like souvlaki or with pita bread on a meze platter. Dill is traditional in Greece but not always easy to find here. Read on…


Hussey's Vlei Sauvignon Blanc has long been a favourite of ours; from a single vineyard, it is intense, with green peppers on the nose, and flinty. Crisp and beautiful, it charms. Cool at first, then intense clean flavours of green peppers appear with elderflower. 4½ stars in Platter, 93 points for the 2018. R180 from the cellar door



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MENU’s Wine of the Week. Buitenverwachting HusseysVlei Sauvignon Blanc 2019

HusseysVlei Sauvignon Blanc has long been a favourite of ours;
from a single vineyard it is intense, with green peppers on the nose, and flinty


Crisp and beautiful, it charms. Cool at first, then intense clean flavours of green peppers appear with elderflower
It is unwooded, but has a hint of gun smoke, from the terroir
4½ stars in Platter, 93 points for the 2018. R180 from the cellar door

On the MENU This Week. Tzatziki


Tzatziki is easy to make and goes well with Greek food like souvlaki or with pita bread on a meze platter. Dill is traditional in Greece but is not always easy to find here.
1 cucumber – 1/4 t salt – a squeeze of lemon juice - 1 T extra virgin olive oil - – 1 small clove of garlic , finely chopped - 1 cup of double thick Greek Yogurt – 2 teaspoons of lemon juice. – 2 Tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint or dill or a combination of the two – salt and freshly ground black pepper
Peel and top and tail the cucumber, then grate it into a bowl. You want larger long pieces rather than small gratings. (DO NOT use a food processor to blitz). Add salt and a squeeze of lemon and set aside in the fridge for half an hour to allow it to release the juices. When it is ready, take it out and put into a clean tea towel and wring out all the moisture. Stir the olive oil and garlic into the yogurt, then add the lemon juice and the cucumber. Mix well then add the mint and or dill. Season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning to your taste and serve.

Buitenverwachting - Living up to Expectation

We discovered that it had been three years since we last visited Buitenverwachting in Constantia, so an invitation from Cellarmaster Brad Paton to come and taste some of his wines with him was gratefully accepted. And very much appreciated, as he is in the middle of what looks like becoming a successful harvest
The farm Buitenverwachting (it means beyond expectation) originally formed part of the Constantia Estate which was founded in 1679 by Simon van der Stel, the first Governor of the new Dutch Cape colony. Buitenverwachting as a separate entity dates back to 1769. It is owned by the Mueller family and Lars Maack, son of Mrs Christine Mueller, is the Managing Director
We met at their Tasting room and, because it was a hot day, took a seat under cover on the cooler porch on the right
Inside the tasting room, the staff were being kept busy by the many visitors sitting outside
Our cool table
Each weekend this lawn and another nearby are covered in people enjoying the lovely casual, unpressured atmosphere of Buitenverwachting, enjoying the wine, the platters, each others' company and just chilling.  It is where Constantia Fresh annual wine and gourmet food festival will be held on Sunday the 23rd of February. Details here  http://www.constantiafresh.com/tickets
Brad is one of the longest serving winemakers in Constantia, having been at Buitenverwachting since 2004
The tasting sheet, but we were to taste a few more wines, some of Brad's new ventures and some of his special new wines
We began with the classic Buitenverwachting 2019 Sauvignon Blanc. The style of this wine defines the Sauvignon Blancs that Constantia can produce, and it never fails to disappoint. On the nose, green herbs and leaves, elderflower and good pyrazines.  Crisp, full and layered on the palate with greengage plums, elderflower and green peppers. There is a hint of gunflint minerality
Husseys Vlei 2019 Sauvignon Blanc has long been a favourite of ours. From a single vineyard, it is intense with green peppers on the nose and flinty. Crisp and beautiful, it charms. Cool at first, then intense clean flavours of green peppers appear with elderflower. It is unwooded, but has a hint of gun smoke, from the terroir
Then, from the Limited Release White Range, Maximus 2017 Sauvignon Blanc. This single vineyard wine has complex Sauvignon Blanc flavours with nuances of other grapes.  It is fermented on the lees in older barrels with no batonage or stirring. As John says, near impossible to spit, this is a fantastic food wine and was just released in December. Citrus, peach and loquat on the palate, long rounded flavours which keep developing and are in great balance
The 2018 Limited Release G is a classic Gewürztraminer and is one of the best in the Cape in our estimation. Perfumed with soft rose petals and Turkish delight on the nose, it even has that hint of cornflour that coats the Turkish delight. Clean, complex and surprisingly mature in flavour, the perfect wine for spicy food. There are flavours of orange, litchi and sandalwood, with citrus on the end. It has spent 10 months in old oak
The 2018 Chardonnay has golden oak notes on the nose, lovely fruit and smoke whiffs. Peach fruit and blossom, then other golden fruit appears in layers; it is mouth watering, so a  definite food wine. We would like this with cheese, fish and complex sauces. This is the style of Chardonnay we should continue to produce. It s complexity is due to 20% being fermented in three different ways: whole bunch, direct press to barrel and destemmed grapes. The direct press produces very reductive wine and flintstone characteristics from autolysis. Matured in light blond toasted barrels of different ages
We tasted the 2019 Blanc de Noir, a pretty rosé with raspberry flavours from the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot grapes. It is zingy and crisp with good raspberry fruit, easy drinking and friendly and great with food. Brad has a new rosé coming which will be a limited edition called Gracious (after his daughter); we tasted it. It is very elegant, with cherry, mulberry and tobacco hints, silky soft on the palate with some cherry flavours. Very interesting. We tasted it again later when it was chilled and it was perfumed with cherry blossom. It is a beautiful rosé, so easy to drink, in the style that we want to drink
Sun dappled oak shadow on the awning above us
and a persistent hadeda ibis roams the lawn, spiking for worms
Under the shade of the central Norfolk Pine, families and friends picnic and enjoy the wines
Time for the red wines. First the 2017 Meifort; it sells so well and is terrific value for money at R110. Incense shows expensive wood on the nose, layers of rich berry fruit, with cassis leaves. The initial tight fruit with chalky tannins shows such promise for this wine. If you lay it down for a year or three it will astound you. But it is eminently drinkable now. Lynne's first thought was: "What am I going to eat with this wine?" and the answer was red meat! Better than a braai wine, it will go so well with steak and roasts. There is softness and concentration in the wine that opens to cherry, berry fruit, so lekker (Afrikaans for delicious)
John has coined a new phrase for this unreleased wine, here served in a decanter, which opens the wine up more
It is "Beyond expectoration"
We did taste another superb red wine that Brad has made but which is not yet released. All we can say is that it was spectacular and we think is going to change things. A lot. You may have noticed a slight difference in colour between glass and decanter in the photo above. Both of the above two wines are in the picture. And Brad has some other new babies in the pipeline. We tasted one of them, a blend, and the palate was extraordinary - this is going to win awards. Watch for their new releases

The 2015 Phoenix is another Buitenverwachting Limited Release, made from 100% Petit Verdot, only 3000 bottles. It spends 36 months in 100% new French Oak and is totally in balance. On the nose, you can smell the expensive wood with the mulberry fruit. Soft berries and chalky tannins make this a 10 year wine, some good brulée notes, mulberry, rhubarb and cherry. It reminds us of the older red wines of the valley which have lasted so well
You might think that these large bottles of Christine are just too expensive or too large, but they are actually perfect for a large dinner party, a special occasion with lots of guests and for Weddings. The wine matures much better in larger bottles. They are available for purchase in the tasting room.
We were rather ravenous after such a wonderful tasting and Buitenverwachting produced this huge platter for us to enjoy. It certainly satisfied. Three dips, humus, feta and olives on tomato and a spicy peppadew. Great bread, butter, crackers, olives, grapes, preserved fig, peppers and other crudités, cornichon, dried apricots, cheese and meat. Great value at R230 for 2 (R245 on the lawn)

They do have other food as well (image courtesy of Buitenverwachting)
Their wine tasting fee is R60 per person for 5 wines
Our final wine is a knockout. The 2017 Buitenverwachting 1769 Noble Late Harvest dessert wine from Muscat de Frontignan, as good, if not better than some of the other iconic Constantia dessert wines. Brad says this is the best he has produced. Saffron yellow in colour, floral with herbal notes of oregano and mint, with honey and toffee on the nose; it is a classic. Pure honeycomb honey dripping into the glass, followed by a squeeze or two of lemon and lime, some apricots and crisp apple, so much in balance. Long lasting flavours, barley sugar, complexity and good viscosity, so impressive. It spends 10 months in barrel
Baby steps. A Swiss couple and their enchanting child, learning to stand and walk
Thank you Brad and the Buitenverwachting staff, so much, for a really superb tasting and day at Buitenverwachting
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Our final wine is a knockout.  The 2017  Buitenverwachting 1760 Noble Late Harvest dessert wine from Muscat de Frontignan, as good, if not better than some of the other iconic Constantia dessert wines. Brad says this is he best he has produced.  Saffron yellow in colour, floral with herbal notes of oregano and mint, with honey, and toffee on the nose,  it is a classic.  Pure honeycomb honey dripping into the glass followed by a squeeze or two of lemon and lime, some apricots and crisp apple, so much in balance. long lasting flavours, barley sugar, complexity and good viscosity, so impressive. It spends 10 months in barrel/
 Baby steps. A Swiss couple and their enchanting child, leaning to stand and walk.
Thank you Brad and the staff, so much for a really superb tasting and day at Buitenverwachting. 

Meze lunch at Mykonos, Camps Bay

Vegetarian friends told us that they have been going to Mykonos in Camp Bay and how enjoyable the food was there, so we decided to meet them there for lunch last Saturday. Apparently it started as a take away, as they did not have serving staff, but that has changed and the staff are lovely and helpful and certainly have got the Hoppa! and other Greek phrases going. It is behind the PicknPay centre right next to CodFather on the corner of Camps Bay Drive and The Drive. There is parking available in the area, in the centre in front, but definitely not on Beach Road!
We have great memories of past holidays in Greece, but one does need to know that Greek restaurant food is quite simple with not much variation; if prepared well, it can be delicious. If you have travelled there, you will have a favourite. In the far gone days in Greece there were no menus, you were welcomed into the small restaurant kitchen where Mama was cooking a couple of standard dishes and you could lift lids on pots to see what you wanted and enjoy them sitting on small tables on the side of the street.. The food was often rather one note and a bit monotonous and by the end of the first week, Greek salads had lost their charm. One great memory Lynne has of a hot day lying on the beach in Lindos (before it was overwhelmed by hotels and cruise liners) when a shout went up: "Get to the restaurant (there was only one) they have something special!" It was fresh eggs, not often seen on the hot island of Rhodes, so we all had omelettes for lunch. We were able to visit the kitchen and choose at Costa's Taverna when we visited Diakofto in the Peloponnese in 2015
They seat you on the glassed-in terrace or inside, where they cook on a grill. Very sensible architecture, given the howling South Easters to which Camps Bay is prone. The restaurant is light and bright white with the obligatory touches of turquoise blue, so we didn’t need any lighting. They cook on coals, but cannot during a power cut as the fan to remove the fumes of the fire does not function without electricity and the fumes can be lethal. Light by load shedding

They don't (yet?) have a licence, so you take your own wine and beers, no corkage charge. They do have good wine glasses
We began with a bottle of Caroline Rillema’s excellent Celestina Sauvignon Blanc Semillon Blend
Ronnie had recently bought 12 and was going to buy more; he and we love it
Sadly, we arrived at 12.30 just in time for a 2 hour power cut, so we could only eat a limited selection off the menu; things that did not need cooking. Just enough hot coals to allow us to order two souvlakis. If they could use some gas rings or a gas braai on the stoep, it might help them for the future cuts, which are really making business difficult for restaurants. Sadly, we were the only customers while we were there. They deserve better and we hope you will visit

The menu. We definitely will be back to taste more from this. Hopefully, when the electricity is on and we can try the Saganaki
- grilled Haloumi cheese with lemon, the Spanakopita spinach and cheese pies, Tiropita
(Oh, such memories of Mykonos Island where they were first enjoyed), calamari and the Gyros
In fact we might just start with one of the Meze platters
We ordered a large Greek salad for the four of us to share while the rest of the food was prepared
Nice fresh tomatoes with flavour, good salty feta, red onions, cucumber, olives and green pepper slices
Do note, there is never lettuce in a Greek Salad. The country is dry and lettuce is not a successful crop for them
We all ordered portions of the Humus Reloaded, which comes topped with silky aubergine melanzane in tomato,
good golden olive oil, crumbled feta and roasted pine nuts. It is a revelation; why have we not seen this before?
The serving is plenty for two to share or great as a main for a single vegetarian. Ditto the dolmades,
which have good herb-flavoured rice and kind vine leaves, not the raw rough ones that spike your tongue
Lynne enjoyed these for the first time ever and she has tried many
The pita bread is soft and this is a portion for four people. It was just enough for the Humus
You can of course order more. It is R25 for a serving of one pita cut into four
The Lamb souvlaki was a little tough, but full of flavour, and lots of oregano is used
It comes with lemon and a serving of tzatziki (yogurt, garlic and cucumber dip sprinkled with chives)
The beef souvlaki is similar, nicely medium rare and was much enjoyed
Our second wine was the Middelvlei Rooster Sauvignon Blanc, quite astringent, but good with the olive oil drenched food
No Greek coffee this time but, when they have electricity, definitely. Did you know they have different names for their coffee?
Called sketos, if you’d like it without sugar, metrios, with a teaspoon of sugar, glykos, sweet, with 2 teaspoons of sugar
or variglykos, cloyingly sweet and strong! And all served black and strong
Our bill came to R660 with service
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