Monday, February 28, 2022

Wines, Olives and Oil at Morgenster

What a lovely way to spend an afternoon. The previous afternoon, at the CVC tasting at neighbouring Vergelegen, we spoke to the Morgenster tasting room manager, James Burnham-King, who invited us to visit and taste the estate's olive products and wines. Italian entrepreneur Giulio Bertrand bought Morgenster in 1992 from the owners of Vergelegen, restored the farm and brought olives from Italy. He planted the first vines in 1995. The olives and oils have achieved great respect, as have the wines, and, since he died in 2018, his family has continued running the estate

Giulio Bertrand, 13 March 1927 – 20 May 2018

Beautiful views


The elegant tasting room

The barrel cellar can be seen through the glass wall of the tasting room

We opted to sit outside. It was a lovely calm, warm afternoon

Across the lake, silvery reeds waving in the wind

We had been invited to do the Olive Oil tasting 

which comes accompanied by a green olive paste, (these are not tapenades, they contain no anchovy)
and some large, salty green olives, a black olive paste and juicy black Kalamata olives
with some crisp crackers and some ciabatta bread to dip into the oils and pastes

Vuyina Tshengu took us through the instructive tasting; there is much to learn

We both went on extensive courses on olive oils when we had our food shop and sold the best,
but we still enjoy new experiences. Here you take up the glass in your hand to warm up the oil as you swirl it
Then you smell and taste

The Extra Virgin oil is a blend of all 14 varieties they grow on the farm and is grassy and green,
with fig leaf, olive bitter and spicy notes

The second oil is named for its variety of olive, Don Carlo, and we loved its golden, bold spiciness
It is complex with grass, thyme, artichoke, asparagus and almond flavours
We bought a bottle and have been enjoying using it on food

The Lemon enhanced oil is full of crisp lemon zest extract
They say you can use it on ice cream and yogurt! Also lamb and fish

The Morgenster Balsamic vinegar is a 3 year old and is the real thing, imported from Italy

Tasting Room manager James Burnham-King came to join us and took us through a great tasting of the wines

We began with the Italian Collection wines. The winemaker is Yolandi van Staden

The 2021 Vermentino has notes of muscat and porcelain on the shy nose but, on the palate,
it is full of layers of fruit and excitement: guava and peach, lemon soda and zest, with pepper spice and green fig notes
It dances on the palate and is just different. We bought some and have so enjoyed it with summer dinners

Next the 2021 Sangiovese. Light and spicy on the nose with strawberry aromas
On the palate it pings off the tongue with lots of complexity:
pepper, strawberries, ripe cherry, lovely soft tannins and chalk and a hint of golden oak

The 2020 Cabernet Franc just blew Lynne away. Incense wood on the nose, dark fruit:
cassis, blackberry, mulberry and green cassis leaves
Richness first, then lovely fruit, zingy acidity, a small grip of tannin and some soft chalk
and then some salty licorice wood on the end
WOW. 18.5/20 Yes, a case came home with us

The 2016 Tosca is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc
A barrel pong, then fruit, oregano and rue; then the Sangiovese takes over with its wildness on the nose
And it follows through on the palate with rhubarb, mulberry and cherry
with a nice, chalky dry end, showing lasting possibilities

The 2015 Nabucco is 100% Nebbiolo and has aromas of vanilla wood, grass, green herbs and fennel
On the palate, cooked red plums, chocolate and Morello cherries; this is a food wine

The 2015 Lourens Valley is a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Cabernet Franc
Cassis berries and leaves, cherries, incense oak on the nose
Umami from the Cabernet Franc, beautifully silky on the fruity palate, still so young with lively fruit
and has all the necessary components to last much longer but so enjoyable now

The 2014 Estate Reserve is the Morgenster flagship red Bordeaux-style blend
Grapes are specially hand-selected from the best vineyard sites at Morgenster
Elegant and classic with good French oak barrel maturation
Perfumed, and full of cassis berries and leaves on the nose
Soft licorice and cherry berry flavours, Lynne could not stop tasting its layered deliciousness

What a wonderful tasting we had been privileged to experience. We had meant to head home at 3
it was well past 4.30 when we finally said our thanks to James and departed

Click here for our story about the launch of the new olive press at Morgenster in 2017

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Cape Vintner Classification Summer Soirée at Vergelegen

An invitation to the Cape Vintner Classification Summer Soirée at Vergelegen had us raring to go; the first proper, organised wine tasting with our peers to be held since the end of lock down. It was an opportunity to walk around the tables of the different wine farms and taste some of the best vintage wines from their cellars. Who could resist, especially when the wine farms involved included some of the very best in our industry: Almenkerk, Anthonij Rupert, De Morgenzon, De Wetshof, Diemersdal, Kanonkop, Morgenster, Vergelegen, Waterford and Wildekrans. It was held from 4 till 7 pm on a Friday evening, so we booked overnight accommodation in the area, so that we didn’t have to drive back to Cape Town afterwards

The welcome drink from Vergelegen was the superb 2018 Semillon;
full and layered and a perfect example of how beautiful Semillon can be when grown and made here
A hundred years ago, Semillon was the most planted white varietal in the country


"The Cape Vintner Classification is a platform to promote the best expression of site, credibility and consistency amongst South Africa’s best producers and their wines”, said Johann Krige, 2021 CVC Chairman on the CVC website. The purpose of the CVC is thus to lay a lasting foundation on which to create Cape wines that stand alongside the finest wines in the world

Billie Lambrechts, who invited us, had some very interesting aged specimens for tasting on her table

These included the Groot Constantia Gouverneur’s Reserve 2016 White, among some older wines at the entrance
Exceptional quality and flavours from this classic blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon

Almenkerk had their 2012 Sauvignon Blanc for tasting
If any wine can persuade people to try and buy older Sauvignons Blanc, it is this one
It was as fresh as a daisy, full of lively, zingy acidity and good fruit; quite remarkable and very enjoyable

We both wandered around the different tables, tasting but, obviously, we could not taste everything, so this is a short précis of the wines we tasted and liked. At a tasting like this you have to spend time tasting the wines with age and show them appreciation. There were many we missed due to lack of time, which we regret. It was also great to see our friends and cohorts in the wine industry after such a long hiatus

Almenkerk had a very good selection of their wines to taste
and there was such a good buzz in the room about them, so people were obviously impressed

Diemersdal has always produced excellent Sauvignons Blanc and to taste some older ones was very special. The M.M. Louw 2019 sauvignon Blanc has a floral perfume on the nose, and was rounded with flavour in layers, superb. The Journal 2019 is drier, very sophisticated and is fermented in French oak barrels, where the lees are stirred to give it a rich mouthfeel and a long finish of minerality, fruit and vanilla wood

The 2009 Diemersdal Pinotage was also impressive, a classic expression of the grape;
incense wood on the nose, lots of dark berry fruit in layers. This wine is built to last

There were tables outside and people also sat on the lawn, nicely spaced apart
We only sat down to eat our supper, there were so many interesting wines with age to taste



We tasted through some of the great older De Wetshof Chardonnays and were especially impressed with the Finesse Chardonnays; two vintages, 2015 and the current 2021. “Crisp, clean and dry, lingering and joyous”, wrote Lynne, "Now I need to eat". And we were not the only ones, people kept talking about it and kept coming to the stand to taste it, sent by their friends. It is great when you pick up a buzz about a particular wine at a tasting

Francois Rautenbach of Singita Lodges and Bennie Stipp, De Wetshof marketing manager

A prestigious wine couple: Platter Guide Editor Philip van Zyl and Cathy van Zyl MW



Everyone was given one of these boxes, containing charcuterie, chicken liver pâté, cheeses, grapes, mixed olives, an apple confit, good butter and a roll. An excellent way to complement a marvellous tasting and assuage any hunger pangs

The event was held on the terrace of the Camphors Restaurant
which is able to accommodate a large group without overcrowding

We loved the De Morgenzon Chenin 2019, another classic made by former winemaker Carl van de Merwe. Lovely floral notes, then ripe stone fruit, and a hint of honey, which follows through on the full and delicious palate perfectly balanced between ripeness, good fruit acidity and, just supporting, golden vanilla oak

Caroline van Schalkwyk, principal of CvS Communications
and Chef Michael Bridgeman of Stables Restaurant at Vergelegen

Waterford winemaker Mark le Roux and English sommelier James O'Leary, who is doing an internship at De Morgenzon
He was very impressed with the wines he tasted and hopefully it will influence his buying when he returns to the UK!

The highlight of the evening was the chance to taste the 2004 The Jem from Waterford. It is their flagship blend, named after the owner of Waterford Estate, Jeremy Ord, or “Jem”, as he is affectionately known. It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Shiraz, Mourvedre and Barbera and was superb with an integrated nose of classic dark berry fruit and good French oak; on the palate, full of chocolate and cherries with a kick of pepper and spice. We sold this wine in Main Ingredient from the end of 2007. The 2014 was also impressive and is definitely going to catch up as it ages, although it seems more Italian in style at present, than does the classic 2004. Sangiovese has been added to the blend

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Saturday, February 26, 2022

Overnight in Gordon's Bay

When we are invited to functions that go on into the evening, we try to find affordable accommodation, so that we can stay overnight. We hate driving back at night on the N2 or N1. This time, the event was at Vergelegen and the closest accommodation we could afford was in Gordon’s Bay. And it turned out to be a good find. A small but "beautifully appointed" (estate agent speak!) apartment, just a short drive from the seafront in a quiet residential street

A very comfortable bed



A spacious sitting area with another single bed




A well supplied kitchen, which we didn’t use at all, as we were just overnighting

And plenty of cupboard space, should you need it. A tiny area outside to sit and parking on the premises for one car
The owner is part of the local neighbourhood security so we felt rather safe, and they were very pleasant and helpful


The next morning, we were off, down to the beach to find breakfast;
it brought back many memories of outings Lynne had as a small child visiting with her parents


It was a great experience; many people were out enjoying the beachfront


We found a Spur, which we often go to for breakfast when away from home;
this must be the one with the best views ever. Right on the seafront


Their entrance is round the back because, they told us, they cannot have a gate at the front;
people just left without paying!


Our usual choice is the Unreal Breakfast, a bargain at R42 (£2),
add on for the pot of tea and a black coffee for John. Two sunny side eggs for Lynne


and scrambled for John, with toast and marmalade for each of us


We were rather amused at the "Vegan" barbeque sauce with a picture of a steak....

The sales slip, including tip

We sat on the terrace and enjoyed the lovely fresh sea air
It seems that Gordons Bay can have a lot of South Easter wind; there was none that Sunday morning


The paddling area for small children; Lynne found some lovely shells on the beach
We were so impressed with the area we want to come back here for a few days before the summer is over

Off-Street Parking
A 1980s S Class Mercedes, similar to one John owned, parked on the roof of a book shop, another place for us to visit

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Friday, February 25, 2022

The Gardens at Vergelegen

We were invited to Vergelegen for a tasting of aged wines and parked quite far away from the tasting venue,
but the long walk allowed us to enjoy the beautiful Vergelegen gardens, modern and historic

This is the entrance to the Stables Restaurant and Wine Tasting Centre through the Sundial Garden

Cutting through the tall Bamboo forest, you come to an open area with a pond and magnificent trees
On the property are five historic camphor trees, which were planted in 1700 and declared National Monuments in 1942,
a 300-year old English Oak, a White Mulberry, also dating back to 1700, and the “Royal” Oak, planted in 1928,
a descendant of King Alfred’s oak trees at Blenheim Palace

A restful place

The rose garden was in full flower

The historic Manor House, built by Willem Adriaan van der Stel in the early 1700s,
and beautifully restored by Lady Florence Phillips in the early part of the last century, c.1920

The camphor trees could be an inspiration for the Ents in the Tolkien "Ring Cycle" books

Looking through them to the large grass area,
where a huge stage will be erected for the annual RMB Starlight concert, to be held again this March after a Covid hiatus

and walking back to our car later, we spotted this Hadeda ibis
enjoying a great view atop one of the other historic buildings on the Estate

King of his castle

and the Helderberg mountains, coloured by a magnificent sunset

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