Wednesday, September 17, 2014

A day in Hermanus

Off to the seaside again – a stay in Hermanus

We left Franschhoek late afternoon and headed over the magnificently heady Franschhoek pass to Hermanus via the very full Theewaterskloof Dam. We had been lent a lovely spacious and modern flat on the coast in Hermanus and were amazed to see that we were right on the rocks overlooking the bay and we could see many whales cavorting from the large glass windows. This was to be our home for the next two nights
The view of the southern tip of Africa in the distance on arrival early evening from the flat
We celebrated with a glass of Creation's terrific Sauvignon Semillon blend. Crisp, citrussy, with good minerality and delicious
Sunrise the next morning
The misty mountains
It is Arum time in the Cape Spring. They grow everywhere on the coast and are indigenous
Whales were everywhere in the bay. This one is flashing its tail
Pods of dolphins too
Lots of gulls
A very barnacled head on a Southern Right whale
We saw a mother and baby cruising and blowing in the bay every morning
Honestly, some people have absolutely no idea about how to promote themselves. We decided, on Tuesday, to go and see some of the wine farms in Stanford that we have never visited before. Almost there, we saw an impressive set of gates with a very small dilapidated sign saying wine tasting. But there was no name on the gate. It turns out it was Misty Cliffs who had their signage stolen a while ago. We were welcomed by Angela Kies in the tasting room, who gave us a tasting of their three wines, two Shirazes and one Pinotage, made by consultant winemaker Philip Costandius, who is now at Oldenburg in Banhoek. “No, they have not been busy” she said. With no signage outside, we are not surprised that everyone is driving right past. 

It got worse. We could not find a tasting room on the Robert Stanford farm despite driving all over the estate looking for one and any signage and nearly took a road over a very rickety wooden footbridge that would not have held our car. There is building going on, so perhaps they are closed for a while. We left and then proceeded to Stanford Hills next door. You turn off the main road onto a smaller road and drive at least a kilometre to the small winery. It was lunch time and we were spurred on by the thought of the memorable pork pie they serve, mentioned by Christian Eedes in the Platter guide. When we reached it, we discovered that they are only open Thursdays to Mondays. It was Tuesday. We really would have appreciated this information at the turning from the main road. So it was not a successful trip to taste Stanford wines.

Trying the wines in the tasting room at Misty Cliffs winery in Stanford
One day this might become a restaurant
Their labels
Angela Kies was very helpful, knowledgeable and did a very professional tasting for us
A huge conference of white-faced coots on the Prawn Flats
The tide beginning to go out on the flats on the Stanford estuary
Flamingos  in the distance on the edge of the estuary
Cormorants watching the water
And a tiny abandoned 6 week old (approx.) kitten living on the side of the slipway. We fed it some ham and sausage and it was ravenous. We did report it to Animal Welfare who said they would go and rescue it.
We headed back into Hermanus to find some lunch. Lynne had met the owner of Bientang’s Cave the previous day at Creation so we decided to give it a try. And we were very pleasantly surprised

A lovely close up of a whale from the deck at Bientang’s Cave
This is just next to the old harbour in town
Steep steps down (And up later!)
A view from above of the terrace
Not too daunting
We think these far tables must be the ones for the smokers! They should be
They ring a bell every time someone spots a whale in the bay
Specials of the day
John’s portion of Hake and Chips. Rather a small portion for the cost but very fresh and good
Lynne opted for the Bouillabaisse  and it was delicious and very good value at R95. Two huge prawns on top, and in the soup mussels, calamari, smaller prawns and fish in a light tomato fish/seafood broth
They charge R50 a bottle for Bring your Own Wine and this is one of our current favourites,  a Chardonnay made by David Finlayson at Edgebaston
More cormorants

The Bar at Bientang’s Cave

A last look at Walker Bay before the long road home 

© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2014

Craig Cormack's Pasta and Pizza menu at Allée Bleue

On Sunday we packed up our overnight bags and headed first to Allée Bleue wine farm in Franschhoek, to which we had been invited to sample Craig Cormack’s pop-up month of Pizza and Pasta for September. It was the most beautiful day and we were given a lovely table on a small balcony apart from the main restaurant, with a view of the vineyards
The manor house with the Franschhoek mountains in the distance
The Restaurant
The shaded terrace part of the restaurant
One of the conference rooms being dressed for a conference on Monday morning
Our table for two on the side of the main terrace
There was lovely bird life in the garden below. This is a bulbul
Bud-break on the vines and all the lovely spring greens of the vines and the trees
The flowering aloe on the side of the stream was a haven for many malachite sunbirds
Our welcoming drink of Allee Bleue Rosé bubbly had been doctored with some Chambord raspberry liqueur. The jury is out on that one. Perhaps better without?
Taking a sip
The highest mountain in the Cape, the Witzenberg in Ceres, is almost another table mountain. When we get snow on the mountain tops in winter, this is the mountain it settles on and it can be seen from the city.
The menu with a small selection of Pizza and Pasta
First came two hot herb rolls with a tomato pesto, a basil pesto and a red pepper pesto.
Then they bring the salad bar, where you get to mix and choose your own salad greens and herbs all from the farms herb gardens. Allée Bleue supplies fresh herbs to most of the restaurants and supermarkets in the Cape
John’s choice was the bacon, chorizo, Parma ham, brie pizza topped with caramelised onions and Dijon mustard and a red wine reduction. This was served with a glass of Allée Bleue Cabernet Merlot 2012
Lynne’s choice was the fried polenta gnocchi with fried sage leaves, mushrooms, mushroom puree and foam and a tiny touch of truffle oil. This was served with Allée Bleue’s very good Flagship white wine, Isabeau 2012, a blend of Semillon, Chardonnay and a little viognier.
We asked for one serving of the baked cheesecake topped with cranberries to share and got a whopping piece, enough for 3 of us!
Look who we found dining there that day!  Geoff and Lynn Grier of Villiera who were great company during an enjoyable lunch
The chef who made our lunch, Ian Laubscher
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2014

A memorial lunch at The Food Barn

We lost another good friend to cancer recently and we so love the way he wanted to go out. He didn’t want a sad funeral, he left money to take a large group of his friends here, and simultaneously in Durban, out for a slap up lunch. As Richard was a huge bon viveur, this was such a happy way to give him a send off. The Cape Town celebration of his life was held together with members of his family at The Food Barn in Noordhoek which was booked out for lunch on Saturday and Chef Franck Dangereux did Richard proud. We know he would like you to see the pictures of what we ate and drank
Cape Town friends in one room, celebrating a good life and a good man
The special menu

A goats cheese fritter, with a guava and ginger compote, wild rocket, avocado and cinnamon oil served with The Foundry Viognier 2013
A crisp whole prawn fritter on a confit tomato, aubergine and avocado tian, with chilli syrup and a basil salsa. This was quite superb in its flavour and texture combinations, and definitely one to try to copy at home. Served with Sutherland 2012 Riesling, a great match. The blend of basil with sweet chilli was inspiring.
A very crisp refreshing lime/lemon sorbet between courses
Rare roast lamb rack tomato and pecorino ‘quiche’ (no pastry) with a thyme scented minty jus, came with the Nederburg 2010 The Brew Master (Cab/Malbec/Merlot/Petit Verdot) a lovely, rich red wine
John chose the Grilled Angel fish on a pumpkin risotto in a smoked paprika ream with tender leaves. Perfect with the Raats 2013 Original Chenin Blanc
Yogurt and lime Panna cotta with a vanilla sauce, hibiscus ice cream served with the Graham Beck 2012 Rhone Muscadel
A tiny but very rich Belgian chocolate terrine, with salted fudge ice-cream, a toffee and vanilla sauce. Served with Nitida 2013 Modjadji dessert wine
Swapping reminiscences. Thank you Richard Parsons. And Franck, for conjuring up such a wonderful menu that really did pay him tribute
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2014