Monday, May 18, 2015

MENU's Aegean Odyssey. Day 1, Cape Town to Istanbul

On Saturday afternoon, we took the MyCiti bus to the airport and discovered that the actual departure time was 40 minutes earlier than the time printed on our tickets. We came close to missing the plane, but we made it in the nick of time
and boarded Turkish Airlines TK 0041. We and the small contingent of Cape Town passengers flew to Johannesburg and killed two hours in the aircraft on the ground before taking off and
 landing in Istanbul at 5.30am on Sunday, tired from a sleepless night - we never sleep well on planes and love KLM's daylight flight from Amsterdam. Service on Turkish was good and the plane food slightly better than usual
 Then came the shock. After about an hour in the long queue for immigration, in the worst queues we have ever seen worldwide, with thousands shuffling, we discovered that the Turks require a visa for UK passports. John had applied for and printed out his e-Visa, free of charge. Lynne had been told a visa wasn't necessary for a UK passport. She had to go and buy one (€25) and rejoin at the back of the queue, which took another hour. Landed 05h15 left airport 08h30, exhausted
 Immigration cleared, we went down to the underground Metro station, bought our Istanbulkart pass cards (similar to a MyCiti card) and boarded the train, having been told by the security man to go to the second last stop on the line
We got off and stopped at a nearby hotel to ask for directions. We needed to go to the last stop on the line
So we did that
 and went looking for our digs. Lost again and went onto the Hotel Kuran to ask directions. The very kind concierge took us into his foyer, brought us tea and coffee (no charge) and called the people at our self-catering apartment
 The young manager came to fetch and said "5 to 10 minutes walk". He was a bit optimistic, but we made it. Lynne had turned her ankle in Cape Town. It took 25 excruciating minutes walk, dragging suitcases and bodies
 to Tura Apartments
and checked in... We knew the room wouldn't be ready before 1pm and this was about 10am
 So we deposited our cases and he showed us the way to the centre of the suburb so we could look for provisions and see the sights.  We are in the ancient quarter of Fatih opposite the ferry
 There is a huge variety of inexpensive food (some plates of rice and beans for as little as L1 = R4.50) savoury
 and sweet, mostly expensive
We stopped at one small restaurant for lunch, cubed chicken breast with aubergine, potato and cheese  and grilled chicken pilaf.No beer (Muslim restaurant) 
so we ordered a lemonade each
 
and walked on through the neighbourhood streets
 People have stalls, barrows of things to sell and sometimes just a pile of goods on the pavement
 Many buildings need repairs and one sees a lot of building activity
Lynne spotted this bit of antiquity with a very modern scooter and a fig tree growing from the neighbour roof 
 with a nice bit of wrought iron on the gate
 Across the square,
hanging gardens 
 More street food, a very popular chicken doner kebab, a flat bread, yoghurt, chilli sauce, pickled cucumber and chips all rolled up together with the chicken slices 
and small greengrocers everywhere 
 with beautifully displayed, fresh and great quality fruit and veg. We once had similar, but our supermarkets killed the small traders and the quality
 Stuffed mussels are popular
 and, in the evening, we had a sundowner in our room. 
Then our lights went out (sound familiar?) with a power cut. Lynne had brought a torch, 
so we could negotiate our three flights of dark stairs, 
and we walked to nearby Kumkapı square, 
which is ringed with restaurants, mostly specialising in fish, all touting for business
The surrounding streets are also full of places to eat. 
This man appeared to be making his own ice cream
 A display of fish in a restaurant
 Evening games of backgammon with the boys
A Mini Migros supermarket, with a generator, where we bought some things for breakfast: fresh peaches, tomatoes and coffee & pan au chocolat for our microwave 
 Embellishment is everywhere
 We finally made a choice for supper as we fancied some lamb
The menu is clear, with prices. You ask for details 
 A salad, some hot flatbread and some tomato, chilli cucumber sauce arrived first
 Other tourists stopped to ask what it was like and were attracted
 We could see into the fridge and choose our meat
 John chose a lamb dish baked in a clay pot with tomato, peppers and other delicate herbs and spices. It had a beautiful woodsmoke flavour
 Lynne had a nostalgic lamb shish kebab which came with pilaf rice with the texture of sushi rice, a grilled green chilli, salad and fried potatoes so crisp that they were like duck fat potatoes. Divine
Inside the restaurant with the chef, sparkling clean.  We drank 'Islamic beer' - water - with our meal 
Strolling through the restaurant quarter 
A band playing traditional Turkish music sat at one of the restaurants. They move around all evening
 Strolling home through the back streets, we are only a few minutes walk away
 Everyone, and the washing, is out on the streets
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2015

Saturday, May 16, 2015

Wine Concepts Burgundy Lovers Festival at The Vineyard


Last night, we visited the Vineyard Hotel for an evening of fun with friends at Wine Concepts' Burgundy Lovers' Festival. There are always far too many wines for one to taste in one evening. In the past, we tended to start with the Chardonnays and then missed out on the Pinots Noir. This time we took Peter Finlayson's advice and started with the Pinots. He told us that Burgundy producers taste the Pinot before Chardonnay because Chardonnay kills one's palate for Pinot.

We tasted most of the Pinots and there was time for only 3 Chardonnays at the end. There is a wide variety of styles and good Pinot is being produced in several different areas. Wines that stood out for us were Newton Johnson's Family Vineyards Pinot 2013, Cape Chamonix Reserve 2013, Crystallum Cuvée Cinema 2013, Edgebaston and Meerlust. All these wines should last very well and we'd love to taste them in about three years' time.

The Chardonnays we managed to taste were all beautiful: Kershaw, Oak Valley and Jordan Nine Yards. 

We were, as always, delighted to catch up with so many of MENU's readers and even happier when we were told by some of you that our note about the Festival had brought you there.

Adam Mason of Yardstick Wines with Diana Prosser and David Wibberley
Lara Shargey and Christiaan Coetzee of Uva Mira
Sofie Gielen with Johan Kruger of Sterhuis
 South Hill winemaker Shaun Skibbe
 James and Stuart Downes of Shannon with Ndaba Dube, Vineyard Hotel sommelier
Jolene Burger with Maryna Strachan
 and so we were out into the rainy Newlands night, 
and now we're off to experience the sights, sounds and flavours of Turkey and Greece
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2015

Wednesday, May 13, 2015

The Christian Eedes Cabernet Sauvignon Report 2015

was released at Burrata Restaurant in The Old Biscuit Mill precinct in Woodstock

Before the results were announced, Nederburg Cellarmaster Razvan Macici and the other winemakers who were receiving awards, together with invited guests, gathered in the restaurant to await the judges' decisions
Christian Eedes introduced the programme and explained the judging process. 60 wines, currently available or to be released soon, were invited to enter the competition. Wines that received 90 or more points out of 100 received certificates

If the prices of most of these wines are compared with other wines of equal or similar quality in the international market, they are very competitively priced, taking a UK price of £10 (= R190) as a yardstick for entry level wines
Waterford Estate 2012
Price: R195

Le Riche 2012
Wine Cellar price: R200

Laibach The Widow’s Block 2012
Wine Cellar price: R235
Graham Beck The Coffeestone 2013
Price: R250
De Trafford 2012
Price: R265 (due for release in July)
Oldenburg Vineyards 2012
Price: R200

Nederburg II Centuries 2010
Price: R280

Stark-Condé Stellenbosch 2012
Price: R165
Spier Woolworths Reserve 2012
Woolworths price: R129.95 (the bargain of the contest)
Warwick Blue Lady 2012
Wine Cellar price: R260

Burrata is famous for its pizzas and a selection was brought to the guests
Some of the best, most richly flavoured arancini we have had this year
A classic Margarita
The Report's sponsor Derek Prout-Jones of 4 Decades Capital with Amanda, his wife, and their daughter Danica
Warwick winemaker Nic van Aarde and Jani Branders, Hospitality Manager at Warwick, with the delicious 1991 Blue Lady, which showed how well Cabernets can keep if stored in good conditions. The 2012 scored 90 points
Winning winemakers Irene Waller of La Bri and Erika Obermeyer of Graham Beck
The judges: Christian Eedes, James Pietersen and Roland Peens
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2015

Tuesday, May 12, 2015

This Week's MENU - Turkey & Greece, Elgin Cool wines, De Krans at Mount Nelson, Taillard Family Wines, OM Trophy Judges’ Feedback, Wade Bales Wine & Whisky Affair, Rhône blends with Ken Forrester, Eedes Cab report, Coming events, Scotch broth

Autumn vines, apples and olives at Hannay, Elgin


In this week’s MENU:
* Off to Turkey and Greece
* Scotch broth
* Coming events
* Learn about wine and cooking
We write about our experiences in MENU, not only to entertain you, but to encourage you to visit the places and events that we do. We know you will enjoy them and we try to make each write up as graphic as we can, so you get a good picture of what is on offer at each place, restaurant, wine farm, festival we visit. To get the whole story with photographs, please click on “Read on.....” at the end of each paragraph, which will lead you to the related blog, with pictures and more words. At the end of each blog, click on RETURN TO MENU to come back to the blog version of MENU.
MENU is late this week because last week was so full of extraordinary and interesting tastings and meals that we simply did not have any time to write it. Lynne was down with a bad head cold and wanted to keep it from turning to bronchitis, as it so often does for her, so she was trying to take it easy (!) and missed out on two evening events. She wants to be fit and well for our next odyssey. To top that, her computer died as we were preparing to send this. After a few hours in an efficient workshop, it is back in operation and her contributions can be completed.
You will not receive another MENU until the second week of June. We are off to explore Istanbul and then Greece – our first proper holiday in several years. We will be posting photographs and blogs. Please follow us on Facebook and Twitter (@MAININGMENU)
Yes, we are going to be tourists and visit all the historic monuments, taste the food and the wine and experience the markets, but we are also going to try to have a well earned holiday. The itinerary is Istanbul, Athens, Santorini, Naxos, Athens, Corinth, Daikofto and the Peloponnese, including Nemea and surrounding areas. Back on the 4th June and straight back to PR appointments. Yassou!
So here is the last fortnight’s story, at last:
Elgin Cool wines     The day started cool, drizzly and misty in Cape Town on Saturday but by lunch time in Elgin the sun was out and we had a lovely festive day. We met some lovely people and tasted some very good wines. We began at Hannay Wines with Catherine Marshall doing a tasting of both their wines followed by huge hamburgers.   Read on....
Then it was off down the road to see the Wallaces at Wallovale farm to taste their wines and some chocolate from Rococo. Read On....   
Finally, we finished the day at Lothian in the most amazing house we have seen for some time, tasting their wines and watching the sun disappear over the mountains. It was a fine day. Read on....
De Krans at the Mount Nelson     We are sad to hear that there will be no Port Festival in Calitzdorp this year (they will be holding special events during the month of June) but delighted that De Krans brought their wines to Cape Town to show them to the media and the trade. On Tuesday we met for a guided tasting, with Boets Nel in the Planet restaurant, of both wines and port and tasted some really interesting and some really delicious wines. This was followed by a tour de force matched tasting of exceptional canapés by Executive Chef Rudi Liebenberg with some older De Krans wines and port. You don’t realise how much you are eating when the canapés are so deliciously matched to good wine. Read on....
Taillard Family Wines by Teddy Hall     A one hour bus drive into the country took us and several other journos and trade to the Voor Paardeberg area to this farm nestled under the Kanonkop Mountain. Teddy Hall has been making their wines for them since 2014 and this was our chance to sample the wines with a pairing lunch laid on for us by chef Gustaaf Boshoff of Stir Food  Read on....
Old Mutual Trophy Feedback session     This is almost one of the most exciting events of the year for the media, and those people who have entered wines. The judging has finished earlier that morning; the judges usually still have very blue teeth! We won’t learn who the winners are until the awards lunch on the 27th May. It is time to hear the opinions of the local and international judges of the wines they have tasted blind since Monday morning. They still do not know what they have tasted or what has been entered. Has the Cabernet group improved; are Chardonnays showing well; what about the Red blend class? The wines are tasted in grape variety or blend groups by judges experienced in their category. And each year there are surprises, growth in quality, disappointments and successes in the categories. Read on....
Wade Bales Wine and Malt Whisky Affair    There was enough time after our excellent lunch at the Grande Roche to deliver Lynne back to the house and drive into town to this very good tasting at 15 on Orange  Read on....
A Decathlon of decadent Rhône blends, bands of Gypsies and Renegades with Ken Forrester     And indeed it was. How to describe Ken Forrester? A passionate, knowledgeable rebel wild child who has the advantage of the wisdom of age – something we all aspire to - and a great winemaker to boot. It was with great excitement that we joined other media and trade people for this tasting on the farm last week, followed by lunch at his restaurant, 96 Winery Road. Read On....
The Christian Eedes Cabernet Sauvignon Report 2015 was released at Burrata Restaurant in The Old Biscuit Mill precinct in Woodstock this afternoon. Read on for the rest of the story The full report can be seen here
This week’s recipe is a sustaining winter soup. It was rather cold and damp over the weekend, Lynne had a cold and this brought on a soup craving. We had people for supper, so this was our starter. We used the lamb bone and left over lamb from our Sunday roast, but you could add some cut up lamb or even another meat from a roast.
Scotch Broth
1 large onion – 2 t canola oil – 10g butter - 3 leeks – 2 parsnips - 3 carrots – 1 turnip – 1 cup soup celery, finely chopped – a large handful of chopped parsley – a bouquet garni of 2 bay leaves, three sprigs each of rosemary and thyme, a sprig of basil tied up with some string - about 2 cups of finely chopped lamb, plus any lamb bones from the roast – 2.5 litres of good lamb or chicken stock – 100g barley – salt and freshly ground black pepper
Before you start, finely chop all the vegetables. Do the onion first and put it into a large pan with the oil and butter and a little salt and cook until soft and beginning to colour. Add the leeks and fry gently for a couple of minutes, then add all the rest of the vegetables and stir. Let them sweat for about four to five minutes, then pour in the stock, add the bouquet garni, the celery, parsley and the lamb, with any bones you have. Simmer on a low heat for at least an hour or two. Remove the bones and the bouquet garni. Add the barley and simmer again until it is soft, adding more water or stock if the soup has reduced a lot. Season to taste and the soup will be ready to serve. Lovely with a mature Sauvignon Blanc and garlic bread
COMING EVENTS
Friday, 15th May   Burgundy Festival     We hope to see lots of you at this superb festival, organised by Wine Concepts, being held on Friday 15th at the Vineyard Hotel. They will have a great selection of some of the best Chardonnays and Pinots Noir to taste. Now in its fifth year, it kicks off this Friday in Cape Town at The Vineyard Hotel in Newlands and in Johannesburg on the 28th May at The Wanderers Club in Illovo. Please visit their website www.wineconcepts.co.za for details
4th and 5th June  Fine Brandy Fusion 2015 will take place at the Sandton Convention Centre in Johannesburg from 5.30pm to 9.30pm (no new entries after 9pm). Ticket price is R195 for entry, which includes a crystal brandy balloon, a booklet with 15 brandy taster coupons, three cocktail coupons, and two coffee coupons. Tickets are available from Computicket or at the door
29 and 30 May   Franschhoek Mystery Weekend. Each Mystery Weekend will be structured around something uniquely Franschhoek. With wine and food being the inspiration, the May Mystery Weekend is perfect for all the Wine Fundis and Gastronauts out there who seek a weekend of relaxation, delectable food and world-class wines. For just R3 500 per couple (self-drive), for the whole weekend, you'll experience the best the village has to offer. Bookings close on Monday, 18 May. For bookings or queries please contact Carmen Arendse on office@franschhoek.org.za. More detail at www.franschhoek.org.za
Friday, 29th May   Join Lanzerac Wine Estate winemaker, Wynand Lategan for an exclusive collaborative wine and food pairing dinner at The Demo Kitchen for an indulgent evening of superb Lanzerac Pinotage. The cost is R400 per person which includes four Lanzerac Wine Estate pairings, coffee and a goodie bag filled with gifts from Lanzerac and The Demo Kitchen. For bookings and info contact Ilse van der Merwe on 021 882 9895 or info@thedemokitchen.co.za
Saturday, 30th May   Feast of Shiraz & Charcuterie hosted by Hartenberg Wine Estate at Joostenberg Deli (12pm to 5pm). Sample some of SA’s finest Syrahs paired with delectable artisanal fare. Tickets are available directly from www.webtickets.co.za at a cost of R180 per person, and include your entrance fee as well as wine tastings. Joostenberg Deli is situated on the R304 just off the N1 in the direction of Paarl. For more information contact DnA Event Management on info@dnaevents.co.za or 021 874 9010
30th & 31st May   Delheim’s Wild Mushroom Hunts in the forest on the farm and on 3rd & 4th July. There are only 40 spots available per day. This exploration of the hidden world of the fungi starts at 10am and tickets cost R595 per person. A ticket includes an exclusive mushroom foraging basket or a Delheim bottle of wine and two glasses to take home, a lecture on mushroom identification, the forest forage, as well as the mushroom-themed three course lunch and a glass of Delheim wine. Pre-booking is essential and given the intimate nature of these events, no group bookings are allowed. For more information or to secure your spot contact 021 888 4607 or 079 7353 257 or send an email to restaurant@delheim.com
Thursday, 4th to Sunday, 7th June   Wacky Wine Weekend being held in the Robertson Wine Valley. Visit the Wacky Wine Weekend website. www.wackywineweekend.com
Friday 5th and Saturday 6th June   Karoo Lamb and Venison Experience at Muratie Estate in Stellenbosch. This is going to be a seriously good way to spend a winter’s day. We always rave about Muratie’s lamb shanks, the best we have ever tasted in the Cape. Now you can also sample some of their super cooking at this Experience. And of course it will be accompanied by Muratie’s showcase of great wines that match the food so well. Learn how to cut and prepare fresh organic Karoo lamb and venison, and how to cook the various cuts in order to bring out the very best flavours and textures. The workshop will be followed by a wine-tasting and a three-course lunch served with Muratie wines. From 10h00 until 14h00. Cost: R500 per person all inclusive. Bookings: by phone 021 865 2330 or Email: info@muratie.co.za We are going to be there.
Thursday, 11th June   Taste the Helderberg 2015. Limited tickets for Taste the Helderberg 2015 are available at the cost of R80 per person. The ticket includes an elegantly branded wine glass and access to tasting some of the best wines in the country. Numerous restaurants will tempt the taste buds with mouth-watering portions of their signature delights which will be on sale throughout the evening. Tickets will also be available at the door. For more information visit www.wineroute.co.za or call 021 886 4310
11th & 12th July   Franschhoek Bastille Festival
13th August  Nedbank CWG Auction Showcase, Cape Town
26th August  Nedbank CWG Auction Showcase, Sandton
30th September  Nedbank CWG Winemaker Dinners
1st October  CWG Sports Day, De Zalze Golf Course, Stellenbosch
2nd October  CWG Final Pre-Auction Tasting, Spier Conference Centre
3rd October  Nedbank CWG Auction, Spier Conference Centre, Stellenbosch
Learn about wine and cooking We receive a lot of enquiries from people who want to learn more about wine. Cathy Marston and The Cape Wine Academy both run wine education courses, some very serious and others more geared to fun. You can see details of Cathy’s WSET and other courses here and here and the CWA courses here. Karen Glanfield has taken over the UnWined wine appreciation courses from Cathy. See the details here
The Hurst Campus, an accredited school for people who want to become professional chefs, has a variety of courses. See the details here
In addition to his Sense of Taste Culinary Arts School, Chef Peter Ayub runs a four module course for keen home cooks at his Maitland complex. Details here
Nadège Lepoittevin-Dasse has French cooking classes in Noordhoek and conducts cooking tours to Normandy. You can see more details here
Emma Freddi runs the Enrica Rocca cooking courses at her home in Constantia
Nicolette van Niekerk runs baking courses at La Petite Patisserie in Montague Gardens
George Jardine will be running a series of winter cooking courses and other activities at Jordan. Details here





13th May 2015
Remember - if you can’t find something, we’ll do our best to get it for you, and, if you’re in Cape Town or elsewhere in the country, we can send it to you! Check our online shop for details and prices.
PS If a word or name is in bold type and underlined, click on it for more information
Phones: +27 21 439 3169 / 083 229 1172 / 083 656 4169
Postal address: 60 Arthurs Rd, Sea Point 8005
Our Adamastor & Bacchus© tailor-made Wine, Food and Photo tours take small groups (up to 6) to specialist wine producers who make the best of South Africa’s wines. Have fun while you learn more about wine and how it is made! Tours can be conducted in English, German, Norwegian and standard or Dutch-flavoured Afrikaans.
We apologise if MENU caused your phone to bleep in the early hours. To send to our huge list of subscribers takes a long time and many of them receive it in the middle of the night. Might we suggest that your phone should not be activated to receive messages from us or from other sources in the witching hours? If your boss needs to contact you at that time, (s)he’s intruding on your valuable personal time.
Recommendations of products and outside events are not solicited or charged for, and are made at the authors’ pleasure. All photographs, recipes and text used in these newsletters and our blogs are ©John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus. Our restaurant reviews are usually unsolicited. We prefer to pay for our meals and not be paid in any way by anyone. Whether we are invited or go independently, we don’t feel bad if we say we didn’t like it. Honesty is indeed our best policy. While every effort is made to avoid mistakes, we are human and they do creep in occasionally, for which we apologise. Our Avast! ® Anti-Virus software is updated at least daily and our system is scanned continually for viruses.

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