Tuesday, July 05, 2016

@MyVoiceMap Elfin Trail in the Cecilia Forest with TravelMassive

A walk with the fairies and elves and one was dwarfed
We are members of Travel Massive, an international travel networking organisation, and were asked if we would like to go on a walk through Cecilia Forest one Saturday afternoon. You take your phone on the walks and download free software from VoiceMap. Then, on the walk, GPS triggers a commentary that tells you about your surroundings and gives directions. You need an iPhone or an Android phone. We have Windows phones which don't take the app, so another phone was provided to us for the walk. There is a charge for using the App. It was a very interesting and easy walk. And for Lynne, a bit challenging near the uphill end, when her energy began to wane. VoiceMap walks can be done all over South Africa and internationally too. Some are in the country or seaside, others are city walks, museums, galleries, wine farms, etc. Check out their website on https://voicemap.me/
We were there to do the fantasy Elfin Trail, especially good for families. There is this signage along the path as well, you have to look for it. It is 5 kilometres long and not very arduous. The children on the walk coped well. Not all the adults did, some, who don’t do long walks often, got a bit tired (Lynne) and some got a bit lost, but found their way eventually. We think they were listening too hard to each other rather than the fairy talking to them
The walk began in the car park at the intersection of Rhodes Drive and Hohenort Avenue. It was a reasonably large group of different ages and sizes. All were kitted out for changes in the weather and came armed with their cell phones
Iain Manley of VoiceMap explained how to download the software to our phones, gave us instructions of what to look for and off we set. It is about a 2 hour walk unless you are unfit and not used to walking, then it takes a while longer
The path is well maintained and easy going. Our phones began the commentary with an Irish fairy voice telling us about the local legends of pixies and elves. She also told us when to stop and turn off in another direction. 
Some honey fungus on a log, left there by the pixies, to be sure
A glade of some of the most magnificent eucalyptus trees in Africa, this glade of trees is now protected. They are said to have been planted by Cecil John Rhodes alongside other alien trees, in his attempt to make the landscape more like that of Europe and have grown to an enormous size. The forest was once used for logging, but is now being returned to the indigenous fynbos and Afro-temperate forest
A tiny berry bush, with fruit just large enough for a fairy breakfast
Iain waiting for people to check whether the software was working well. We needed some updating, as our phone kept losing the signal
Through the woods and into the trees, up hill and down dale, and into the mysterious cork oak forest which runs along the top of the road. Lots of goblins hide here
You can see pixie and goblin faces in the cork
A magical tree fern waiting to unfurl when the elves appear
Down the hill and across the river, seeking magic in the surrounding bulrushes
Fairy flowers, early snowdrops
And under the whispering Aspens, some orange Crocosmia growing alongside the stream
Grassland is suitable for fairy rings
And then, a patch of dark and mysterious forest to rush through. Is this where the centaurs hide?
Now we began our long climb back up the hill, following the path alongside the river and keeping our eyes open for the woodcutter who, the Irish lady said, was swallowed up by the undergrowth when he didn't keep his promise to the tree guardians. The walk was through beautiful lush countryside
And finally, after Lynne nearly gave up hope, with only half a kilometre to go, she was rescued by an angel by the name of Dawn. We arrived by car at our final destination, The Alphen
Groot Constantia wine estate had specially donated some lovely Bubbly and wines to warm up and refresh the media and bloggers doing the walk. The Alphen Five Rooms restaurant, hospitably, also provided hot chocolate, snacks and cakes
The weary and the energised went through to the terrace to enjoy the last of the afternoon
and glasses of Groot Constantia Brut Rosé were gratefully received
While we told our tales of the fairy folk we had encountered and the trials and tests we had endured...
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

MENU goes East - and comes South West. Last day in Hanoi and home to Cape Town

Then, our last day in hot and steamy Hanoi, where the Monsoon was heralding its arrival. We had our last taste of the street life and street food, the night market and a one in 90 million chance encounter. Then we began the arduous 37 hour trip back home
John spotted some Vietnamese wines in a supermarket we visited, obviously a hangover from the days of being a French colony. This was a red from a blend of unidentified "French" grapes
And white. Interesting that they are planting Sauvignon Blanc in a warm climate. With a brief, interesting, description in English. No idea what they taste like, we didn’t try them. SA Rand against the Vietnamese Dong was punishing when it came to luxury purchases
This superior Red from Dalat looks interesting
While Lynne looked at the shops, John paid a visit to the very French cathedral
Beautiful high, vaulted ceiling and stained glass windows
Vivian, our hotel's very cheerful night receptionist. She was very helpful
We went looking for supper. We did not know what we wanted or where we would find it. As long as it was on the way to the night market
No, perhaps not. We didn't ask if fried lizard was a speciality
Well it rhymes
And we liked the look of what was cooking at the front. It’s called eating with your eyes. We had no idea what the food was
A narrow restaurant with long tables, lots of locals and some tourists
The Bun Bo Nam Bo. Beef noodle salad. It looked rather different from the picture at the front and cost 60,000 Dong - R40. Flaked meat and shallots with bean sprouts and herbs on the ubiquitous soft white noodles. Filling. You had to add fish sauce and chilli to give it some more flavour
Lynne ordered these leaf wrapped items as an extra which turned out to be Gio, a kind of pork sausage. Not bad at all and very cheap at 6000 Dong (R4). Student and back packer food
People eat quickly and then move on. The service was terrible but the food OK. We drank local beer as usual. R13 here but much more elsewhere. The Saigon lager was better than Hanoi or HaLong. You have to barter at local shops selling it. We paid US$2 for 5 on the first day, When john returned another time, they wanted $5 for 6, but he managed to bargain them down to the first price
This is the menu. A Heineken cost 25000 Dong; they tend to leave off the last three noughts and replace them with K. A popular and sensible unsanctioned inflationary move. It is daunting working in hundreds of thousands. It worked out at about R16.50 each
Counting the dosh
It was rubbish collection time and it was very smelly. Everyone drops their trash in the street.It is collected by the most indigent, recycled where possible and the rest deposited on street corners for collection. We passed on quickly, heading for the night market
A shop of gilded Buddhas and another of pottery and banners
We reach the market. Clothing. Most of the purchases were done by locals. We found the goods not very attractive and were quoted crazy prices
Enamelled coconut shells? Chopsticks, joss sticks, paper "money" for offerings, book marks, fridge magnets
We were told to look out for pick pockets
Everybody gazing
A pair of ginger poodles, much loved
The babies are indeed very, very cute. Mum is keeping her cool with her fan
Owl watches
Owl back packs. And Miss Kitty
And lots and lots of T-shirts. Are we in the right country? Thailand?
There are 90 million people in Vietnam, not counting the tourists. And who do we happen to bump into in the market? Another member of the Cape media, Edo Heyns, editor of Wynland magazine, with his wife on their first night. It was our last
"No," said Lynne," it won't do. Too fat tummy, no matter how much you push and pull it across." Pity it was lovely and only R250. And no, we didn't believe it was silk, just good polyester. They are a tiny people in the North
Duh? Sack that translator
Back to our hotel at the height of the evening, crossing the busiest square
Beautifully lit buildings
And the never ending stream of traffic. It is how we will always remember Vietnam
Our car awaits to take us to the airport. The lens fogged up in the heat coming out of the air-conditioned hotel, even at that early hour. Get your hotel to book the car, it goes onto your hotel bill in advance. Taxis are much more expensive. This trip cost us $13 (R193), two dollars cheaper than coming from the airport, which is apparently normal. It takes about 50 minutes to get there. So we left at 6.30 am for our 9.30 flight to Hong Kong. There are no buses or trains to the airport. But Uber is there. We just couldn't access it as we didn't have a local phone sim card
Lovely driving through the almost empty streets this early. People were out exercising, cycling, doing tai chi exercises and practising martial arts in the parks
Over Hanoi's modern bridge across the Red River, aptly named for the red mud it carries
A reminder that Vietnam is still a communist country, although you wouldn’t know it when you’re in the streets
Vietnam Air Force MIG 21 fighters in their hangers at the airport
Waiting for our plane, watching planes take off and land. The airport reminded us very much of the old Cape Town airport, now modernised
Our flight to Hong Kong, just landing
We arrived in Hong Kong about lunch time and had to wait till our flight at 7 pm. So we treated ourselves to some lunch. We had some super prawn dumplings first, then this very spicy Beef Rendang. The meat (brisket) was a little challenging for John, being cooked on the bone with a lot of gristle, but was as tender as can be and the sauce was perfect, exactly what a complex Malaysian Rendang should be. This was the portion for one person, it amply fed both of us, accompanied by a bowl of plain rice
Yes we splurged. It was hot and we were thirsty. Two small Heinekens cost us 90 HK dollars. At two Rand to the HK dollar they cost us R90 each. In Hanoi, we could have bought two six packs of Heineken for that price. Probably the most expensive beers we have ever had
Inside the restaurant
The bill for two dishes and two beers. R422. We enjoyed it. And then came the long wait and the search for somewhere to sit
Check in only started at 5 pm and, when you are boarding the world's largest airliner, the queues are long. But the staff were efficient and the queue moved quite rapidly
Boarding the giant Emirates Airbus A380 for the 7 hour flight to Dubai. After 4 hours wait there, we boarded another plane for the 9 hour flight to Cape Town. We arrived home at 1.30 Sunday afternoon. having begun in Hanoi at 5.30am local time on Saturday morning. 37 hours straight, allowing for time differences. Now you know why we called it an Odyssey
Trying to waste time watching films
We are unable to sleep on planes. We envy anyone who can
Uber brought us home. We worked out that it was less expensive than taking a MyCiti bus to town and then calling Uber from there and, after 37 hours of airports and planes, we were only too happy to take one car all the way home. When we came home, Lynne went straight to bed, John stayed up till 5 pm, reading the Sunday Times and enjoying a Windhoek Draught while letting the adrenaline subside.  We slept till 10 pm, got up, microwaved some chicken soup (it was in the freezer) and we went back to bed at 11 pm. We slept through till 8 the next morning. It took a few days to catch up the sleep debt and stop waking in the middle of the night. But it was worth it. It was a great trip and the time went slowly, so we were able to enjoy every minute
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016