Thursday, August 11, 2016

A visit to Tulbagh - Saronsberg winery

Dewaldt Heyns, the cellarmaster, had the same dreadful cold John was not enjoying, so he was pleased to sit with us in the sun for a while on the terrace and talk about the wines, while we tasted. He is a member of the Cape Winemakers Guild and has wine in this year’s auction
The outside of the winery with the iconic Saronsberg lady of the lake
The tasting room with the art gallery above
The picture on the chimney breast is also used on the Provenance range of wines
Dewaldt pours us a generous glass of their MCC Brut 2011 which has 100% Chardonnay and was on the lees for three years. It is fruity and crisp with a good mousse. It will continue to age beautifully
One of the many pieces of art in the gardens of Saronsberg; many are witty conversation pieces
You will find this statue of a lady on the bottles of Saronsberg wines. The mountain view across the lake is wonderful
Her body emblazoned with a star


Inside the white wine cellar with its many tanks and barrels stacked high
Showing us how high they have to go. They are in the process of building a function centre and Dewaldt has had to make plan for storage of the barrels that were in that space previously.
Pupitres with the bottles of MCC which get riddled (turned and raised a little) on a daily basis by the valued member of staff who has the most experience and ability
There is a lovely soft aroma of oak wood as well as maturing wine
Outside, a statue of leaping impala
And who should we meet checking out after a deserved break over the long weekend but the Mount Nelson Hotel's Executive Chef, Rudi Liebenberg, fwith his wife. They had spent a relaxing time, with the children staying at home with carers
Late afternoon view of the winery with the oaks in front. They are Turkish oaks and they do not lose their leaves in winter
The building on the right hand side is where the function venue is being installed
A lovely place to spend an afternoon by the lake
We love the Saronsberg Rose, so fresh and fruity, dry but full of strawberries and so very like those from Provence
We absolutely loved the 2014 Grenache and Dewaldt let us take it back to the cottage with us. More about this next week
And to finish off a lovely tasting, Dewaldt brought us a bottle of his own 2011 Weathered Hands Chenin Blanc, made from 40 year old Swartland bush vines. It’s full of golden gooseberries and conference pears on the nose, with a full mouth of sweet dried pears with almond notes and good acidity. It has elegant, slightly chalky tannins and will last so well. But it is drinking perfectly now
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

A visit to Tulbagh - The cottages at Saronsberg

To tranquil Tulbagh
We had been invited to visit several places in or near Tulbagh and some of the invitations were more than a year old; we just struggle to cram the many places and invitations we receive into our agenda. We had a reasonably clear week, so we accepted as many as we could. Car problems set us back and the original 5 days planned turned into three, but we had an amazing time with lovely sunny days and chilly late winter nights. Our hired car was great. What follows are various chapters of our lovely three days with the hospitable people of Tulbagh. Besides tasting great wines, it was also rather an eating marathon. Tulbagh is a small historic town nestled up a quiet and beautiful valley one and a half hours drive from Cape Town. You do need to plan a visit, you will love it
We began at Saronsberg
They have several commodious self catering cottages on the farm which they let out all year round and they kindly offered us accommodation there for the two nights we were in Tulbagh. We arrived on Monday morning, settled in and then made for the tasting room.
Our cottage was a two bedroom - one double bedded room and one single. You park outside and all the cottages have outdoor braai areas and terraces
The open fire in the lounge area was welcome and the small self catering kitchen is adequately supplied with both a microwave and a small oven grill
They had provided us with a bottle of Saronsberg 2014 Viognier and a bottle of the much lauded 2014 Shiraz
Our bedroom had both air conditioning, a ceiling fan and an electric fire; the latter worked so well to warm up the room on the cold nights.
The single bedroom
We had stopped off at a Wellington farm stall to buy two pepper steak pies for lunch and we enjoyed these enormous pies (one would probably have been sufficient for both of us!) with the floral Saronsberg Viognier, full of peaches and apricots but fresh and textured. It is wooded but subtly so. The views are magnificent.
Sitting under the vine pergola when it is in leaf in the summer must be lovely

And on Tuesday we had a light lunch on the terrace and an opportunity to taste their superb 2014 Grenache, with slightly wild notes on this robust and friendly red wine that sings of the south. More on that wine next week
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Wednesday, August 10, 2016

A visit to Tulbagh - Tasting Rijk's wine with Pierre Wahl

Pierre Wahl has been making wine at Rijks since 2002 and makes some impressive wines. He is also a member of the Cape Winemakers Guild and the farm has excellent terroir to produce good grapes that Pierre turns into exemplary wines. One nice marketing coup they have achieved is to have Rijks wine served in the restaurant at the famous Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam; great product placement. Owner Neville Dorrington bought the farm in 2000 and although advised to plant fruit, went for grapes instead, a fortuitous decision. We spent the afternoon with Pierre and tasted through the wines
Rijks tasting room/ It was here that we began to taste the wines. We started with the zesty 2013 Touch of Oak Chenin blanc, full of citrus and ripe pear layers. This refreshing wine deservedly gets four and a half stars in Platter. The wood is barely visible. The Private Cellar Chenin is much richer and more elegant
The tasting room is large and is nicely furnished with pale laminated modern wood. Next we tasted the 2013 Touch of Oak Pinotage. Aged in old barrels, this is the opposite the those coffee style Pinotages as it shows very little wood influence. It is from younger vines, trellised and night picked with 48 hr maceration
Next a Pinotage Lynne liked, the 2012 Private Cellar with a rich red berry nose, more Pinot than Cinsaut in character, very attractive. Rhubarb and spice on the palate with elegance. The display showcases some of Rijks many awards with the current wines, including their MCC Brut made from 100% Chardonnay.
Time to move outside for some welcome sunshine. You look out onto the vineyards which go over the hill and one of the farm staff cottages. It was time to start tasting the three Shirazes. First the Touch of Wood 2012, full of pepper and fennel on the nose, Sweet raspberry and maraschino cherries fruit lasts on the palate, making this a good food wine
Lynne making copious notes while Pierre introduces the next wine, the 2010 Private Cellar Shiraz. With expensive wood on the nose, this is like a super Tuscan with violets, leather and liquorice. On the palate, salty drop liquorice and rhubarb. Good acidity and length give it aging potential. A great wine to pair with rich red meats
Pierre saved the best till last. The 2011 Reserve Shiraz has that expensive oak incense with a silky soft texture of salty liquorice, delicate spicing and intense black cherries. It is very, very elegant, with long after flavours, ending in dark toasted wood. The ultimate food wine, drinking so well now. They always keep this Shiraz in reserve for four years. This vintage is running out quickly and the 2012 will be released at the end of this year. Buy now
The winemaker with his wine. He very kindly gave us the rest of the Reserve Shiraz to have with our dinner that night
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

A visit to Tulbagh - Supper at Readers Restaurant

We met owner Carol Collins recently at an event at Den Anker and she asked us to come to supper at Readers, her restaurant in Tulbagh. It also is a serious cat lovers gift shop and, while you eat, various charming moggies visit your feet and the fireplace. They are not allowed on the tables. The restaurant is in the oldest house on Church Street (c.1849), the famous Cape street that was destroyed in the 1969 earthquake which has been beautifully and historically restored
How charming the old building looks at night
The cat collection in the shop at the entrance
More in a farther room
There is a dining room on either side of the entrance hall
We had a table in the warm corner, next to the fire. The nights in Tulbagh are still a bit chilly
The menu for that evening
Lynne ordered the pork chops topped with slices of warmed apple and camembert. It was an enormous serving with two huge pork chops. This is country food, they don’t mess about with small portions. It was served with three roast potatoes. And we shared a dish of mixed vegetables
John chose the Lamb Strudel, which was crisp pastry filled with minced lamb. This was topped with some cream cheese and served with red cabbage and roast potatoes. Also a very generous portion
We were rather full after our main courses and asked to share a dish of ice cream. It turns out that Carol is famous for her interesting and adventurous ice creams. We were given three flavours: Balsamic vinegar, interestingly fruity and not at all vinegary; Coconut, ginger and honey with lots of coconut; and Curry and cumin - spicy rather than curried. All are creamy and rich
Then she insisted we try the Cape Brandy pudding which has ginger pieces in it and each portion had a different flavour of ice cream. We swopped to taste both. One was a lovely dark and rich Christmas pudding, a huge success and a great alternative at our warm Christmas tide to the real thing. The other flavour was lemon, honey and poppy seed with rooibos tea, ice cream with a crunch
We had a very gemütliche evening chatting to the other guests in the small room and to Carol at the end or her service. Thank you Carol
John spotted these local craft beers as we left. We will have to try them soon. We know Miss Molly as an MCC brut wine, now for the beer
Note: we do not use flash in restaurants because it can be very disturbing to other guests when we take numerous photographs. In situations like this, when light levels are very low (candles), picture quality suffers

© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

Thursday, August 04, 2016

This Week's MENU. Laurium Red Blends, Caroline's Red Wine Review, New chef at Catharina's, Mussels and wine at Den Anker, Nederburg Auction preview, Ham and chicory, Badsberg NLH

A winter walk on the beach, Britannia Bay
When life gives you lemons     This is been a rather disappointing and very stressful week for us. We all have these weeks from hell from time to time; the point is that you just have to take charge and get through them. After the storm last week, most of the phones in Sea Point were down. We registered a complaint, almost everyone is back on line, we are not. Last time, in June, we were without a phone for 20 days and dealing with Telkom is chronic. No response at all to our logged calls and no appearance of anyone. How to run a business from home! Then, on Wednesday, on the way to Steenberg, our car started kangaroo jumping. We assumed that there must have been water in the petrol, as we had filled up after the storm the day before from a garage at the bottom of our hill. No. We broke down that evening while crossing the intersection of Beach and St John's Road at 7 pm. Dangerous. Thank heavens for AA membership, and we were finally towed home at 9.30. Sea Point Beachfront security were also supportive, thank you. We have an electronic problem and a leaking gearbox. Barons, the VW dealership, only does plug and play repairs with new components nowadays, they don't actually fix anything and can't help us, so it now has to go to the gearbox people and then to an electronic firm. The main problem? We are due to go to Tulbagh on Sunday for five days, visiting Saronsberg and other wine farms, the Tulbagh Hotel, restaurants and other fun things to do there, which we will write about. So car hire looms. We will regard it as a holiday expense, regardless of the fact that we will be working the whole time
MENU has a new Facebook page 
The Laurium Capital Signature Red Blend Report 2016 at Ellerman House     This annual competition now has Laurium Capital as their sponsor and it was held this year at Ellerman House. Christian Eedes (winemag.co.za), James Petersen and Roland Peens (Wine cellar) usually judge the red blends entered, this year. Roland was ill, so Accountant Hennie Coetzee was co-opted. There were 16 winners. You can see who won here: http://winemag.co.za/the-laurium-capital-signature-red-blend-report-2016/. There will be public tastings in Cape Town on 17 August at Radisson Blu Hotel Waterfront and in Johannesburg on 18 August at Summer Place Hyde Park respectively. Tickets available on line from winemag.co.za
Tasting some of the Cape's best Reds at Caroline’s Red Wine Review     Caroline Rillema of Caroline's Fine Wines holds two of the best wine tastings every year: her Red Wine Review in July and the White Wine Review on Wednesday, 19th October. She selects wines that have four and a half or five star status which she judges to be great wines. It is an incredibly well attended tasting, held this year at rather hot Table Bay Hotel.
An intriguing meal at Catharina's at Steenberg     Are you an adventurous eater? Because we have been in the food and wine business for so long, first as retailers selling unusual ingredients and fine wines, then as writer and photographer of food and wine, etc, we tend to take adventurous food in our stride, but the event at Steenberg this week made us pause. We were invited to sample the food of new Executive chef Archie Maclean and it turned out to be quite an adventurous journey that we absolutely loved, but others, perhaps, were cautious.
Muscling in on Mussels at Den Anker     We had been invited to Muratie for the Port Festival but sadly, without a car, we had to cancel. That meant we were able to take up Mark Norrish's (he heads the wine buying at Ultra) invitation to attend his annual Ultra Mussels Wine Celebration at Den Anker Restaurant, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town as we can get there and back by MyCiti bus
Nederburg Pre Auction Tasting at Durbanville Hills      We attended the Nederburg Auction last year and Lynne did manage to secure one lot, despite heavy bidding, of Graham Beck 2009 Blanc de blancs MCC for John for his 70th Birthday. So we were delighted to be invited to taste the wines that will be auctioned this year. However, because of heavy home going traffic it became an exercise in speed tasting. A good friend kindly lent us her car and we left Sea Point at 10 to 4. We reached Durbanville Hills at 10 to 6 - they were closing at 6. Luckily, others had also been working or delayed and they kindly stayed open to allow us to taste till nearly 7 o'clock, for which we are very grateful
What's on the MENU this week?     We had this dish for supper tonight and wonder why it is not more popular. Chicory or witloof is a vegetable that is widely available, but we don't see many of you buying it. Nor do we remember ever seeing it on a restaurant menu. But, cooked the right way, it is delicious. You can also include this as a standard Banting dish. You could use slices of smoked chicken if you don't use pork. As the chicory needs proper draining, you might like to start boiling it a few hours before you eat. We are having four and using 300 ml of thick cheese sauce and grating cheddar on top.
Chicory enrobed in ham with a thick cheese sauce
2 large chicory bulbs per person - sea salt - one large slice of ham per chicory bulb - salt and pepper - a rich cheese sauce - more grated cheese for the top
Take a sharp paring knife and remove the bitter core of each chicory bulb. Insert the knife tip in the root and rotate it, a tent shaped piece will drop out, discard. Place all of the chicory in well-salted cold water. Bring to the boil. Drain the pot and repeat once again. This removes any residual bitterness from the chicory. Boil until it is very tender. Drain carefully and leave in a colander to continue draining. When they are cold, squeeze out any residual water and pat them dry. If they stay wet, it will thin out the cheese sauce. Wrap each bulb in a slice of ham. Place in rows in an ovenproof casserole. Season with salt and pepper. Pour over your thick cheese sauce. Top with a good grating of strong cheddar. The matured English cheddar at Checkers is especially good and well-priced. Put into the oven and cook uncovered for 20 minutes or until the top is browning and the sauce is bubbling. You can also put this under a hot grill. The flavour is close to asparagus. Enjoy with a crisp dry white wine. A white blend would also be good, but we chose a Chenin blanc, Forrester Meinert FMC 2010, which, predictably, was superb.
What's on the WINE MENU?     Badsberg's much awarded 2009 Noble Late Harvest made from Chenin Blanc and Hanepoot grapes.
We had a superb tasting of Noble Late Harvest wines last night at our wine club and this wine was one that really impressed from those which are still available for purchase. The bottle looks like a Christmas tree with baubles, it is so decorated, but you do need to take the gongs seriously; it is not easy to earn a Platinum award from Michelangelo or many of the other awards. The producer is a co-operative in Rawsonville which produces a range of very good wines, with dessert wines being four of the five wines which were awarded four or more stars in the 2016 Platter. This wine earned four stars. The non-dessert wine in this group of five is the Chardonnay sur lie.
The wine is, as expected, a honeyed, amber-coloured sweet wine with great acid sugar balance. It is full of treacle tart on the nose, quite salty, with almost a liquorice drop character and with bucketfuls of apricots and marmalade. A wine to go perfectly with desserts and rich patés. And, at last, some serendipity. We discovered that we have a bottle in our cellar. It is made from 80% Chenin blanc and 20% Hanepoot (or, if you like, Muscat d ‘Alexandrie)
4th August 2016
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What's on the MENU this week? Chicory enrobed in ham with a thick cheese sauce

We had this dish for supper tonight and wonder why it is not more popular. Chicory or witloof is a vegetable that is widely available, but we don't see many of you buying it. Nor do we remember ever seeing it on a restaurant menu. But, cooked the right way, it is delicious. You can also include this as a standard Banting dish. You could use slices of smoked chicken if you don't use pork. As the chicory needs proper draining, you might like to start boiling it a few hours before you eat. We are having four and using 300 ml of thick cheese sauce and grating cheddar on top.
Chicory enrobed in ham with a thick cheese sauce
2 large chicory bulbs per person - sea salt - one large slice of ham per chicory bulb - salt and pepper - a rich cheese sauce - more grated cheese for the top
Take a sharp paring knife and remove the bitter core of each chicory bulb. Insert the knife tip in the root and rotate it, a tent shaped piece will drop out, discard. Place all of the chicory in well-salted cold water. Bring to the boil. Drain the pot and repeat once again. This removes any residual bitterness from the chicory. Boil until it is very tender. Drain carefully and leave in a colander to continue draining. When they are cold, squeeze out any residual water and pat them dry. If they stay wet, it will thin out the cheese sauce. Wrap each bulb in a slice of ham. Place in rows in an ovenproof casserole. Season with salt and pepper. Pour over your thick cheese sauce. Top with a good grating of strong cheddar. The matured English cheddar at Checkers is especially good and well-priced. Put into the oven and cook uncovered for 20 minutes or until the top is browning and the sauce is bubbling. You can also put this under a hot grill. The flavour is close to asparagus. Enjoy with a crisp dry white wine. A white blend would also be good, but we chose a Chenin blanc, Forrester Meinert FMC 2010, which, predictably, was superb
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016

On the WINE MENU: Badsberg's much awarded 2009 Noble Late Harvest

We had a superb tasting of Noble Late Harvest wines last night at our wine club and this wine was one that really impressed from those which are still available for purchase. The bottle looks like a Christmas tree with baubles, it is so decorated, but you do need to take the gongs seriously; it is not easy to earn a Platinum award from Michelangelo or many of the other awards. The producer is a co-operative in Rawsonville which produces a range of very good wines, with dessert wines being four of the five wines which were awarded four or more stars in the 2016 Platter. The exception is the Chardonnay sur lie. This wine earned four stars

The wine is, as expected, a honeyed, amber-coloured sweet wine with great acid sugar balance. It is full of treacle tart on the nose, quite salty, with almost a liquorice drop character and with bucketfuls of apricots and marmalade. A wine to go perfectly with desserts and rich patés. And, at last, some serendipity. We discovered that we have a bottle in our cellar. It is made from 80% Chenin blanc and 20% Hanepoot (or, if you like, Muscat d ‘Alexandrie). It is available on line from the cellar at R75 per bottle
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2016