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Tuesday, July 18, 2017

This Week's MENU. The Granary Cafe at The Silo, Breakfast at La Petite Tarte, Visits to Groenland and Kaapzicht in Stellenbosch, Classic Chicken soup, Kaapzicht The Glimpse 2015

A tanker on a "wine dark sea" (quote from Homer) with clouds on the horizon which we hope will bring more blessed rain

Winter has set in and we are feeling the cold. Thank goodness for a new load of firewood being delivered tomorrow. While the temperatures are not significantly lower than we experienced in Oslo last month, our houses are not built for cold weather; we have always pretended that it doesn’t exist. This is Africa, after all – even if Antarctica is the next stop to the South and a lot of our weather comes from those parts. So we have a couple of stories for you about good things to do in a cool place which pretends to be warm in July....

The Granary Cafe at The Silo

The Silo in the Waterfront is about to open its much publicised gallery, the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (MOCAA) to the public. John heard about it on Cape Talk last week and we realised that we had not been to see the Silo Hotel or its restaurants which are above the gallery. So, on a rare lovely, sunny and warm Champagne day this week, we made a booking. The Silo Hotel is part of the Royal Portfolio Group

A Warm Breakfast on a Cold Day at La Petite Tarte

Last Saturday was a raw and miserable morning, a little wet, but we were all anticipating heavy rain from a big front approaching the city. We decided to cheer ourselves up with another breakfast. Not too far from home, we discovered Le Petite Tart in Dixon Street, across the road from the Cape Quarter Lifestyle centre in Green Point and got a table for 10 am. No one wants to jump out of bed early on a chilly Saturday morning

The restaurant, which also does lunch and dinner, is easy to find; you can't miss those red and white striped awnings. We also found parking at the top of the street

Visits to Groenland and Kaapzicht in Stellenbosch

What to do on a cold and damp Saturday morning in the Cape midwinter? Why not visit some wine farms not too far from Town. Bottelary took us only half an hour on the N1 and Old Oak Road. And we zoomed along, not breaking any speed limits with very moderate traffic

What’s on the Menu this Week? Classic Chicken soup We love the restorative properties of good chicken soup. We have been buying it from the Kosher section at Checkers for years and keep a litre in our freezer for those days when we are feeling a bit wobbly and some winter bug or other is beginning to overtake our life. However, they seem to have left out the chicken recently and Lynne decided to make her own. We had a large chicken this week and on day three, still quite a lot of meat on one leg and on the carcass; she sacrificed it to the pot. It is not rocket science, you just need good vegetables. This was quite astounding as, when we ate it, it was full of umami flavours. And yet, no salt had been added, just some real chicken stock. Use a stock cube if you must, but make sure it actually contains some chicken, not just MSG

One cooked chicken carcass, not picked completely clean - one cooked leg of chicken - 2 celery stalks, finely chopped - 3 carrots, finely chopped - 2 leeks, finely chopped - one turnip, finely chopped - two cloves of garlic, sliced - 3 T celery leaves, finely chopped - 2 T parsley with stalks, finely chopped - ½ litre good chicken stock - 2 bay leaves - 1 t fresh thyme - 5 whole peppercorns -seasoning: white pepper and salt to taste.

First, cut off as much good chicken meat as you can from the carcass and the leg and keep aside. Put the carcass and any bones from the leg and the skin into the pot and add all the vegetables and the stock. Cover with water and simmer for about 1½ to 2 hours. Check the pot every half an hour and when the carcass looks as though it is about to fall apart, immediately remove it with the bones and skin from the pot. Remove any more bits of chicken on the carcass that can go back in the pot, then discard the carcass, skin and bones. Taste and adjust the seasoning if you need to, adding white pepper and a little salt if it needs it. You can add some soup noodles at this stage and add back all the chicken pieces you have saved, cook for another 10 minutes until the added chicken has been boiled and any noodles are cooked. Serve as a meal with crusty bread

MENU's Wine of the Week. Kaapzicht The Glimpse 2015, from Kaapzicht in Bottelary, Stellenbosch.

From a winemaker with vision, Danie Steytler, who is also a member of the Cape Winemakers Guild. This is made from the same grapes as the Vision (45% Pinotage, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cab Franc) but spends only 12 months in barrel. It is different, with pomegranate and cherries on the nose and palate, soft with chalky tannins with some liquorice. So satisfying to drink and cellar. R300 a bottle. We predict that it will win awards

18th July 2017

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Recommendations of products and outside events are not solicited or charged for, and are made at the authors’ pleasure. All photographs, recipes and text used in these newsletters and our blogs are © John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus. Our restaurant reviews are usually unsolicited. We prefer to pay for our meals and not be paid in any way by anyone. Whether we are invited or go independently, we don’t feel bad if we say we didn’t like it. Honesty is indeed our best policy. While every effort is made to avoid mistakes, we are human and they do creep in occasionally, for which we apologise. This electronic journal has been sent to you because you have personally subscribed to it or because someone you know has asked us to send it to you or forwarded it to you themselves. Addresses given to us will not be divulged to any person or organisation. We collect them only for our own promotional purposes. If you wish to be added to our mailing list, please click here to send us a message and if you wish to be removed from our mailing list, please click here to send us a message.

What's on the Menu this Week? Classic Chicken soup

We love the restorative properties of good chicken soup. We have been buying it from the Kosher section at Checkers for years and keep a litre in our freezer for those days when we are feeling a bit wobbly and some winter bug or other is beginning to overtake our life. However, they seem to have left out the chicken recently and Lynne decided to make her own. We had a large chicken this week and on day three, still quite a lot of meat on one leg and on the carcass, she sacrificed it to the pot. It is not rocket science, you just need good vegetables. This was quite astounding as, when we ate it, it was full of umami flavours. And yet, no salt had been added, just some real chicken stock. Use a stock cube if you must, but make sure it actually contains some chicken, not just MSG

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Tasting wines at Groenland and Kaapzicht in Bottelary, Stellenbosch

What to do on a cold and damp Saturday morning in the Cape midwinter? Why not visit some wine farms not too far from Town. Bottelary took us only half an hour on the N1 and Old Oak Road. And we zoomed along not breaking any speed limits with very moderate traffic

Our first destination was Groenland. They have on many awards, good value and top end. We have passed the farm for years on our way to functions and other wine farms in Stellenbosch and kept saying we must stop one day. Recently, at the top Merlot awards, we met the winemaker, who said, “please come and visit”. So we made the opportunity

It’s a family farm; this, the humble tasting room behind the family house, was a swimming hole for the children fifty years ago. They are talking about building a new one, but this one works. In this area, you won't often find large and luxurious designer tasting rooms; it's all about the wines and the family

The walls are full of award certificates

We suspect that the original swimming hole was a tank, as the building is loosely circular. We do wish they had lit a fire, it would have been much more welcoming

Another couple was completing their purchases while we took our seats

These are the wines available. There are three ranges; the top range is not available for tasting and the 2017 Chenin Blanc was out of stock, waiting for a new bottling. A pity. We came on the wrong day; we so wanted to taste it

Different sizes of bottle. Often, the larger bottles are very useful for entertaining and can be very good value. The largest bottle on their list holds 5 litres

The price list. We began by tasting the 2016 Sauvignon Blanc. Zesty, tropical with granadilla guava elderflower and green pepper on the end. R40 a bottle, and then moved to the Entry level Shiraz merlot also R40. Tank made, it is lactic with spiced cherries & vanillins on the nose and tannic and green with cherries and more vanillins from the American oak wood chips. The Antoinette Marie named for the owners two daughters is a blend of Shiraz, Cabernet and Merlot. Rich cassis on the nose, perfumed and pretty, it is lovely, a silky mouthful of ripe fruit, some chalky tannins and long flavours ending in licorice and dark toast. We bought a case, well priced at R68 a bottle. The 2015 Cabernet Classic, also R68, has incense wood, cassis leaves, then berries, vanilla and violets on the nose. Lean and mean at the moment with chalky tannins but, given time, it might emerge well. The Shiraz is spicy, then green on the nose, Thin at first, then the palate widens to warmth with long flavours and nice depth. The American oak it is not obvious and does not overtake the fruit

Ma Aap en Pa Aap op die stoep. (Mom and Dad ape on the porch)

The family dog, missing the children who were out

We are old friends with the Steytler family at Kaapzicht and, as they are right next door, we decided to pop in to see them. We found patriarch Danie giving a tasting in the garden and were invited to join. Who could resist

We do like the new labels. We tasted the 2015 Shiraz with its elegant shy nose. The wine is perfumed and the grapes give a sweetness, fullness and spiciness. Kaapzicht’s Chenin has always been very quaffable, this year's is no different. The premium 1947 was our wine of the week recently

We tasted the Kaleidoscope, which Danie calls his braaivleis wine; a 5 way blend with Cinsault and Pinotage. Then the Estate Red 2014, which is a fruit driven Shiraz Cab blend with cherries and berries in expensive French oak. Such good value at R78 a bottle, this is worth more. We could not resist and with a birthday coming up we bought a case. Lynne was keen to taste the 2015 Pinot Noir and was not disappointed. It is soft and gentle and with good fruit, as it should be; elegant with long flavours and structure; two bottles for the cellar at R130 each. And then The Glimpse.

This is from the same grapes as the Vision, but spends only 12 months in barrel. The Vision spends 28 months in barrel. It is different, with pomegranate and cherries on the nose and palate, soft with chalky tannins with some licorice. R300 a bottle and our wine of the week. We predict it will win awards - we bought

Danie was so generous. He went to fetch two of his Cape Winemakers Guild wines for us to taste (both as yet unlabelled). This was very special indeed and meant a lot to us. The wine he will enter this year is 90% Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% of the grape which is beginning to warrant attention again, Cinsault. This is the acknowledged grape that experts think made or helped those old tannic reds in the 40s, 50s and 60s last so well. Ripe prunes, lovely layers of sweet fruit, chewy tannins, an excellent wine, one to savour now and in a few years time. The second bottle is destined to be Danie's Ultimate Vision. Why Ultimate? Well, he will retire this year, both from the farm and from the Cape Winemakers Guild. He has been farming for 42 years, having taken over the farm from his father Danie, when he was 33. He has recovered from cancer twice and now he says it is time to enjoy life. He and his wife Yngvild will stay on the farm, where they have built a house. We know that his son Danie, now 37, is already doing a sterling job making the wine and helping to run the farm, which will make it a seamless transfer. There have been 5 generations of Danie Steytlers, the 5th is just an infant but, hopefully, will go on in the family business when he grows up

The Ultimate Vision. This wine is excellent, with an elegant balsam nose with some perfume from the Cab Franc. Silky soft on the palate, so full of ripe fruit which is integrated with the wood, tannins and fruit acids, made to last, this will do very well in the auction. 45% Pinotage, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cab Franc. More about these wines after the Cape Winemakers Guild tastings, which we’ll tell you about next month. Thank you Danie for everything. We love you

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MENU's Wine of the Week. Kaapzicht The Glimpse 2015

from Kaapzicht in Bottelary, Stellenbosch. From a winemaker with vision, Danie Steytler, who is also a member of the Cape Winemakers Guild. This is made from the same grapes as the Vision (45% Pinotage, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cab Franc), but spends only 12 months in barrel

It is different, with pomegranate and cherries on the nose and palate, soft with chalky tannins with some licorice. So satisfying to drink and cellar. R300 a bottle from the farm. We predict that it will win awards

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Lunch at The Silo Hotel's Granary Café

The Silo in the Waterfront is about to open its much publicised gallery, the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (MOCAA) to the public. John heard about it on Cape Talk last week and we realised that we had not been to see the Silo Hotel or its restaurants, which are above the gallery. So, on a rare lovely, sunny and warm Champagne day this week, we made a booking. The Silo Hotel is part of the Royal Portfolio Group

Remnants of the once-working silo’s equipment have been retained

The Zeitz Gallery will be in the hollow tubes of the Silo. You can see the faceted glass walls of the hotel above. It has been a very brave and adventurous re-purposing of this historic building in the docks, which stored grain for export in years gone by, before the advent of containers and modern shipping methods

More remnants of the industrial heritage near the entrance

The hotel lobby has been shoehorned into this section of the building, and it works very well

Tall pillars, bright lights and lots of interesting art at reception

We had hoped to eat at the Silo’s Rooftop level restaurant, but it is only open for guests at the moment, so the only choice was the Granary Café. We had booked a table for 12 noon

The restaurant is on the 6th floor, and there is a gift shop in this reception area

Our charming and urbane waiter, Kabelo Musala, who hails from the kingdom of Lesotho. He really looked after us well

Tables next to the windows have lovely views out over Green Point, the mountain and the city. The table settings are simple, organic and uncluttered. The tables look purposefully "distressed" and suitably shabby chic. They have lovely bronzed copper tops with lots of character

They bring warm bread, one stuffed with black olives, the other coated with mixed seeds, good dark green olives in oil and some butter. A nice touch, part of the service and on the house

The starter menu is brief but concise. You do need to hear about the specials of the day; they certainly tempted us. Lynne was heading for the duck liver parfait until we heard that the soup of the day was artichoke with truffle. A done deal for both of us. The Executive Chef is Veronica Canha-Hibbert

How it arrives. In the bottom of the bowl are slivers of crisp fried onion, parmesan cheese, and herbs

Kabelo pours the soup

Our only complaint was that there didn't seem to be very much! it was actually sufficient. It was creamy, silky and lightly frothy, full of flavour and the additions added some texture. Some tiny, shy truffle notes

We each had a glass of Miles Mossop's Chenin Blanc, the Introduction 2016. R60 a glass. One of his first wines as an independent wine maker since he announced his departure from Tokara this year. He has had his own Miles Mossop wines for several years. Crisp, lively and full, it was a good match

The main course menu is also brief, but has a choice for most. John chose the Steak Frites with Béarnaise sauce, it was 200g of very tender fillet steak; Lynne ordered the Lamb Rump. There is also a Raw Bar, a Pasta menu and desserts. They do a fully inclusive Sunday lunch for R380 pp, not including wine or other beverages. Details here. http://www.theroyalportfolio.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/THE-GRANARY-CAFE-MENU_JUNE27.pdf

The lamb rump came pink as requested and was served with Dauphinoise potatoes, fresh asparagus, a creamy butternut puree and some pickled (?) baby beetroot. The lamb had very good flavour, but unfortunately was full of iron tendons and Lynne could not cut it, even with another knife. She managed to eat one of the pieces but could not get into the other two. Perhaps the butcher needs informing? The dish did need a jus

In contrast, John's fillet was meltingly tender and had very good flavour. He donated the mushrooms to Lynne and enjoyed the crisp fries, the Béarnaise and the accompanying salad very much

We ordered glasses of red wine to go with our mains. Lynne chose the Glenelly 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, R65 a glass and John a glass of the Beaumont 2014 Pinotage at R90 a glass. They do mark the bottles with the dates on which they were opened. The first Glenelly Lynne was offered to taste, had been opened on the 25th of June and was sadly showing lots of oxidation and age - were they testing us? We asked for a newer bottle and it was very acceptable. The Pinotage had been open for a few days, but it’s a wine which benefits from aging and was in excellent condition. We opted for no dessert and just had two good double espressos

The bill came to R801 and we added a 10% tip. They did make an adjustment for the lamb. Wines by the glass are pricy, but so are the bottles. It is a very good, very comprehensive wine list. They did charge for water as well

A modern chandelier hung above us and some faintly Asian looking gilt "action" art was on the wall. Are those toe or finger prints?

The eclectic modern decor is by Liz Biden, who designed the hotel interiors, and the restaurant follows in her style. It feels very comfortable and relaxed. We liked the mixture of chair colours, fabrics and textures

The view of Signal Hill and Lions head, familiar to Lynne as she had a similar one from the 21st floor office when she worked in Safmarine PR

You walk out past the bar, where people were enjoying tea. No bookings required, they say. It looks delicious and costs R120 for Afternoon Tea. If you want the Royal Tea they need 24 hours warning and that costs R190 pp. Seems a good deal to us, if you have a sweet tooth or a celebration planned