Thursday, October 05, 2017

Tasting the pairing menu at Creation, Hemel en Aarde Valley

A Creation feast of flavours and tastes and textures
When we last visited Creation Carolyn and Jean Claude Martin said we must come again to do their special pairing menu The Story of Creation. And spending the long weekend in the Hemel and Aarde weekend was the perfect opportunity. It truly was a marvellous, if rather challenging experience, the wines are paired with cleverly created dishes, some small, some bigger that highlight these special wines - R360 for 7 courses with 8 wines. If you do not have the stamina to attempt this you can do the smaller pairings. You can view their extensive menu here http://www.creationwines.com/creation-menu.pdf
We were welcomed with a glass of the delicious 2014 Elation MCC
Chapter 1. This is inspired. The beginning of creation, an egg in a nest. Ah, but this is deceptive, its actually a wonderful passion fruit and pawpaw jelly in a nest with lots of texture from fired baby leeks, courgette, granola and oregano. Which, of course, pairs perfectly with both Creation's 2017 Sauvignon Blanc full of tropical fruits and their 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, refreshing, full and very quaffable
Writing, drinking, eating and listening with Carolyn and JC Martin. Restaurant manager Phillip Marais shows us the Creation book they have produced
Chapter 2 The Creation Viognier, with its rose petals, peaches and ginger, goes very well with pre paired Pickled Fish. Now, Lynne has to state that she does not like Picked Fish because of the usual heavy vinegar and raw onion she has encountered in the past; no way to treat respectable fish. However, the chefs have produced something quite different and edible. It's a spicy curried version, of fried, battered hake topped with a rich sauce, an tangy apricot atchar and served on sweet corn, with crisp strips of poppadum. Perfect with the tongue tingling Viognier
Chapter 3 Next was Smoked salmon and leek ravioli, topped with roasted pumpkin and a cinnamon and orange butter to go with the smoky bacon 2016 Chardonnay. All the wines were served in the correct Riedel glasses, this was in a Montrachet glass and the style of the wine is rather like that too, rich, layered and complex. A great match
Chapter 4 This was the prettiest and the most interesting pairing and the one we thought worked the best. The Creation Reserve Pinot Noir 2015 is soft and sweet, with elegance, minerality and layers of red berry fruit which opens up on the palate. Slivers of smoked duck breast with gentle goats milk cheese, sliced beetroot and radish, raspberries, pomegranate, a Pinot Noir salt and an inspired touch was the pistachio crumb. The flavours of both sing in the mouth
The tasting room is also the restaurant and even, though this was a chilly and miserable day with rain, they were packed. You do need to book at the weekend
Chapter 5 The Reserve Merlot has red and blue berry fruit, incense wood and perfume on the nose. Chalky, crisp tannins with layers of tight fruit, this is a wine built to last 10 to 15 years and, with food, works now. Served with a thick cauliflower, celeriac, walnut, gorgonzola, onion and dried blueberry soup
Chapter 6 The Big Bang! Creation Syrah (80%) Grenache (20%) is one of our favourite Creation wines. It is savoury, spicy, rich and layered and delicious to drink. The current vintage is 2016 and it was paired with a slow cooked pulled lamb shank , salty and rich with a savoury jus (echoes the savoury Grenache), added acidity from the sun dried tomato pesto. spice from the curry powder, and sweetness from the pomegranate
Chapter 7, the finale, is served with Creation Reserve Chardonnay. Pineapple sage and beeswax on the nose with elegance, full , rich with apple fruit acids balancing it on the palate. So cleverly paired with staves of Boerenkaas to dip into the sauce of fynbos honey, truffle oil, bee pollen, pineapple sage in a sauce
We were not finished tasting the wines as we were then offered two top wines to taste. The Art of Creation Chardonnay is sophisticated and elegant on the nose with hints of what is to come, it has crisp apples, limes, in layers, with minerality and good acidity to carry it forward for a long time. The wood is there but in the background. So delicious. Then the Art of Creation Pinot Noir. Rose petals raspberries and incense wood on the nose, soft sweet berries and warmth, with perfume on the palate too. Very French in style, a good Burgundy comparison.
And then a surprise. Just about to be bottled the next day, we were given a taste from the tank of Creation's new Chenin Blanc. Wow. Golden fruit, lovely ripeness, layered limes, loquats and melon. This will be another success for them

Finally good coffee served in something we haven't seen before, special Riedel coffee glasses. This is a double espresso with good natural crema. And then there were some cocolates to end this tour de force of food and wine.
All the Art of Creation wines bear Jean-Claude Martin's signature. Thank you both for being so generous to us and our friends, who were provided with vegetarian courses for the whole 7 Chapters. Greatly appreciated
After Creation it was time to drive home going up the road towards Caledon. We had to make a stop at Dassiesfontein on the N2 and Loraine needed some Nagtegal jam
Looks like they have embraced solar power, we applaud them
It is a crazy place, each room piled high with all sorts of things to buy. Baskets anyone?
Or lamps and chandeliers or wood burning stoves in the restaurant, all for sale
Food being cooked on some of those stoves in the shop
On the way back to town you pass through our wheat lands, and at this time of the year with corn just beginning to ripen, it is a wondrous sight. We saw a field of blue cranes, our national bird, drinking at the dam with the sheep, just too many to count, such a special sight, they are rare. We so hope they will not be not affected by the Bird flu being brought in by returning birds migrating south

A day on Longridge wine estate in the Helderberg

An Invitation to visit Longridge in Stellenbosch last week, so that they could show us methods of Biodynamic farming, pruning of the vines and give us a wonderful wine tasting and light lunch. We were instructed to wear comfortable clothes and suitable shoes for a walk through the vines. And bless them, they provided a shuttle from the Waterfront. Longridge is in the Helderberg ward of Stellenbosch
It was an early start, so we welcomed the coffee, tea and rusks on arrival
Old friends Sandra and Philip Engelen with Lucille Botha of Landbou Weekblad. Sandra owns and runs the restaurant on Chart Farm in Constantia, they own and run Brooklands Guest house and Philip is Chairman of the Cape Town Club
Jasper Raats is both Cellarmaster and viticulturist and we discovered that he is passionate about and very well versed in Biodynamic and organic farming. We learnt a huge amount from him about organic and biodynamic farming on this walk. Bruwer Raats (of Raats family Wines, Mvemve Raats and B Vintners) is his brother
After coffee, when everyone had arrived, we took a walk into the vineyards, so lovely in their new leaves. Jasper explained the Helderberg terroir
This Chardonnay, a very early grape and already it has the tiny flowers on it. The vines look exceptionally healthy
and a ladybird, but this is one of the invader ladybirds that eats the smaller local ones. Ladybirds and other beneficial species help to keep aphids and other small pests down so that pesticides don't need to be used
We explored the vineyards and the visible biodynamic methods
Jasper explained that they plough a 'bankie" or ditch next to and on both sides of the vines and in this they put bark, sawdust and other mulch products which keeps the channel moist. This means that they don't have to irrigate. The cover crop of rye and weeds is allowed to grow in the centre and, when they die in the heat, they are rolled flat so that their nutriments can return to the soil. The cover crop is never ploughed in as it disturbs the roots of the vines and the earthworms and the small micro organisms so essential to the soil
You can see how healthy this old vineyard is as the rye cover crop is so tall
These Chenin vines are over 40 years old; they still produce good wine, although the crop is low
We stop for a word or two with Jasper’s horses
He showed us how they make green manure. They put the horse manure in these pits and add water and other ingredients; this makes a magic liquid for the vines
The Longridge winery
Inside the wine cellar with the large fermenting tanks
and the barrel cellar where they keep the red wines
Time for some wine and a chance to taste the 2009 Vintage Reserve Brut Mèthode Cap Classique, a 4½ star platter wine. Nice age shows on the palate and good crisp apples from the 75% Chardonnay
or you could try their Rosé MCC, with lots of red berry Pinot Noir flavours
In the cellar with winemaker Hendrien de Munck
who spoke about her cellar practices
Lots of red wines slowly maturing in the cellar - and a few whites
We tasted a tank sample of the ripe, almost tropical and with notes of toffee, Sauvignon Blanc, not yet organic as they have bought in the grapes
Then upstairs to a large room above the restaurant. where we had a tasting of many of their wines. We began with the 2014 organic Chenin Blanc, grassy with apricots, pineapple and melon on the nose. Barrel fermented, the wood shows on the palate, with good minerality and weight. The fruit follows behind with pineapple, white peaches and marmalade. Then the smoky Chardonnay, also certified organic, and the Biodynamic Driefontein Sauvignon Blanc. Golden fruit on the nose, nutty, layers of fruit and full on the palate, clean and crisp, a little herbaceous; it begs to be paired with food. Jasper trained in Sancerre and this is the style of wine he is making. They brought us platters of tempura herbs: fennel leaves and celery. Crisp and delicious and, to dip in, a good aioli
We also tasted a rather unusual wine which we liked a lot. Called The Emily and named after Emily Hobhouse http://zar.co.za/hobhouse.htm. A British woman who became one of our local heroines during the Boer War. It is an unwooded Chardonnay, blended with a small amount of lightly wooded Pinot Noir from the Elgin valley. Toasty apples on the nose, nice layers of apple and plum fruit, refreshing with long flavours and a good food wine too. Brewer told us that this is one of their best sellers here and abroad. According to their US importer it sells like liquid crack! R70 on the farm
Then the 2016 Cinsault from old bush vines (planted in 1974). Soft cherries and smoke on the nose, grippy tannins, more soft sweet berry fruit; a lovely quaffable food wine. We had this with some cheese and onion tarts. Jasper's Pinotage is made like Pinot Noir, a more elegant style. Then we had the Ultra premium Merlot which is just being launched. Herbal, minty with huge minerality, heavy, heady fruit and nice warmth from the alcohol
Jasper with the wines we tasted. Next we had the 2014 Ekliptika, Longridge's top red wine. Cab Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a classic Bordeaux blend, still rather closed with incense wood, dark red cassis berries and cherries, tannins and chalk this wants lots of time before it comes to delight, and it will. Then the 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, full of cassis leaves and berries another classic. And finally the Pinot Noir so perfumed with roses and jasmine on the nose, with violets on the palate, sharp red berries, fresh. We were served bowls of lamb neck waterblommetjie bredie on rice. Then the shuttle took us back to town after a lovely day in the country with the wine trade

Friday, September 29, 2017

This Week's MENU. WineMag Pinot Noir, Woolworths Mullins wines, Hemel en Aarde, Ataraxia Synergy, Asparagus soup

The view over Creation wine estate in the Hemel en Aarde Valley from the deck at Ataraxia's Greek chapel tasting room
After a lovely, relaxing long weekend, we’re back with our noses to the grindstone. We visited one of our favourite places in all the world, more about which below. We’ll tell you more about it next week, along with stories about a black tie awards affair, SA’s best wine auction, a biodynamic wine farm and more, so read this week’s stories and come back next week...
The Tonnellerie Saint Martin Pinot Noir Report 2017    
What does the future of Pinot Noir in South Africa look like? Very bright, given the results of this competition. This difficult grape to grow is the fragile diva of the wine world; she refuses to be tamed and keeps changing her clothes. If correctly handled she can be superb. The judges in this competition termed it "The most romantic grape". We do have to take into account that Pinot generally needs a cooler climate; she is thirsty and we have a drought. But we were so impressed when we tasted the top wines in this competition this week. More here....
Six new Signature Wines Launched by Woolworths      
We have some good news. We were invited to join renowned Cape Wine Master and wine buyer for Woolworths Allan Mullins and the rest of the team at the launch of the six all new Signature wines - selected and blended by Allan in conjunction with six of our best wine makers/wine farms. They are all superb and will be available in Woolworths in mid October. The whites will be R129.99 and the reds R159.99. We were very impressed and will be in the long line on the day they are released. Read on....
Heritage Weekend in the Hemel en Aarde Valley. Escape to Heaven!    
We took off four days last weekend. It was Heritage Day on Sunday and thence a long weekend, so we escaped to the Hemel and Aarde valley with good friends to relax, eat good food, try out some fine wineries and just kuier. Oh, and catch up on some sleep. Kind friends who are travelling abroad had lent us their cottage. The weather was not good, it was mostly bitterly cold with a little sunshine on Sunday; we burnt a lot of wood on the open fireplace but came home very ready to get back into the mad media season.  See it all...

MENU's Wine of the Week. Ataraxia Serenity 2015    
Kevin Grant at Ataraxia makes this interesting red blend which he calls Serenity. We have been fans for many years and bought many bottles, some still in our cellar. But until now Kevin kept us all guessing as to what was in the blend....

On the MENU this week: Asparagus Soup
Winter seems to be lingering this year, so soup is not off our menu yet. When we have fresh asparagus, Lynne snaps off the harder stalks and saves them in a box in our freezer. When we have enough, she makes this soup. It is easy and quick and delicious. If you want to make this much richer, cook it in milk rather than stock and add a stock cube
1 large onion, finely chopped - 1 stick of celery, finely chopped – 1 T butter - 1 T olive oil - 1 T flour or corn flour - 1.5 to 2 cups asparagus stalks, defrosted - 1 litre of vegetable or chicken stock - salt and freshly ground pepper - a dash or two of cream - Flat parsley or chervil to decorate
Fry the onion and celery in the butter and oil till soft and transparent, do not brown. Add the garlic for the last minute. Add the flour and stir well to incorporate it. Then slowly add the stock and stir well. Then finally, add the asparagus stalks. Simmer for 10 minutes, covered. Allow to cool slightly then liquidise or blend with a stick blender till smooth and creamy. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Sometimes the stalks are a bit woody, so you  need to put the soup through a sieve. Serve hot with a swirl of cream in each bowl and top with a sprig of flat parsley or chervil. Lovely with a good chilled Sauvignon Blanc

22nd September 2017
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2017
PS If a word or name is in bold type and underlined, click on it for more information
Phones: +27 21 439 3169 / 083 229 1172 / 083 656 4169
Postal address: 60 Arthurs Rd, Sea Point 8005
If you like the photographs you see in our publications, please look at our Adamastor Photo website for our rate card and samples from our portfolio
Recommendations of products and outside events are not solicited or charged for, and are made at the authors’ pleasure. All photographs, recipes and text used in these newsletters and our blogs are © John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus. Our restaurant reviews are usually unsolicited. We prefer to pay for our meals and not be paid in any way by anyone. Whether we are invited or go independently, we don’t feel bad if we say we didn’t like it. Honesty is indeed our best policy. While every effort is made to avoid mistakes, we are human and they do creep in occasionally, for which we apologise. This electronic journal has been sent to you because you have personally subscribed to it or because someone you know has asked us to send it to you or forwarded it to you themselves. Addresses given to us will not be divulged to any person or organisation. We collect them only for our own promotional purposes. If you wish to be added to our mailing list, please click here to send us a message and if you wish to be removed from our mailing list, please click here to send us a message.