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Thursday, August 23, 2018

Birthday lunch at Chefs Warehouse, Beau Constantia

We are great admirers of Chef Liam Tomlin and the innovative food he and his chefs prepare. On Lynne's birthday last year we celebrated at the Chefs Warehouse in Heritage Square in town. We have since been to Thali, his Indian restaurant. This year, she chose to go to the Chefs Warehouse at Beau Constantia. It was a grey and fairly chilly day but the views from the farm do make up for it

The wine tasting facility is on the top floor, the restaurant is below

Aross the valley you can see both Constantia Glen and Eagle's Nest wine farms

We arrived early for our 12 o'clock booking, so went to have a look at the vegetable and herb garden the chefs use

Even in winter, there are some good alternatives

Winter vines enjoying the good soaking they are getting this year and just waiting to burst into bud

They make lovely patterns across the steep slopes

Studying the lunch menu and making notes

We asked if they would let us drink a very special bottle of wine and were very happy to pay the R80 corkage they allow on just one bottle. This lovely elegant wine has floral hints and the typical just struck gun flint notes, while, on the palate, it is lean and crisp with limes and lemons, minerality and length. It went so well with everything on the menu. It's a Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-sur-Loire, in the Nièvre département of France

It has an open kitchen, so you can watch the professional chefs working so well and mostly in silence

We chose to eat from the Tapas menu - R800 for two

You get everything on this menu, served in three stages

Our lovely waitress Justine was very good at giving us a very full description of each dish

We began with two lovely crisp buttery slices of layered paratha topped with lime marinated, lightly seared angelfish, resting on cream and topped with a lime chutney and coriander sprouts. The spicy chutney made this dish, it was like popping candy! The fish was fresh, succulent and a bit shy

The second dish in the stage was slivers of oh so lightly smoked beef entrecote carpaccio, Vietnamese peanuts in a creamy sauce, topped with fresh herbs and puffed rice

Coal seared tuna, which made it smoky, topped with a light as air umami miso cream, warm Szechuan spiced cashews, silken tofu cubes and tempura crisp mustard greens. A great balance of different textures and flavours

We shared the portion and this is it halved and on show out of its dark bowl

Vineyards through glasses, not darkly

When a risotto is cooked perfectly and the flavour is true, you have a wonderful dish like this green parsley and cheese risotto. It comes with horseradish, an onion soubise cream and fried ham hock that added the right amount of salt and smoke. So satisfying, so warming on a bitter winter's day

Described as a Sweet Potato and Corn Masa "Gratin" Toasted Parmesan Catalan, this was a delicate roll of thinly sliced potatoes set on its side, toasted on top, and served with a spicy moroccan lime vierge sauce and a warm corn 'chutney'. Topped with a crisp fried tapioca flour spiral, dusted with grated parmesan, and some lime segments. Complex but complete, a joy for vegetarians

The final stage of three dishes. First a smoked linefish (Cape bream that day) Bhadji with very drisp batter, on a saffron and onion masala sauce, with curry bush and swiss chard dressing (the herb oil was outstanding), and it was finished with a lemon and milk paneeer sauce

There was magic on this plate. Tender, flavourful rich debonded lamb rib with a Gruyère cheese cream, even richer walnut caperberry and raisin jam, deep fried sage leaves and dots of a fruity red gel - berry or beet? The magic was the Puffed Pie Crust, dusted with cheese. As you picked up this light as air piece of pastry, it went pouff in your mouth and disappeared leaving just butteriness and flavour

The final piece de resistance Char grilled slices of smoky and tender venison, pink and tender in the middle, crisp outside, meltingly tender inside, parsnip beignets (why is this wonderful vegetable so neglected in the Cape?) Accompanied by a BBQ cashew nut purée, crisp crumb and a good treacly jus. There were pieces of confit blood orange, something new for us. The taste of the venison changed completely when accompanied by this, good but it masked the enjoyable smoke

A superb meal, just one point is that the many of the dishes have a rich cream accompaniment and the richness of these does affect ones liver a little. The Sauvignon Blanc helped to cut it. Chef has now changed this menu for a new one, so do go and try it. He does this regularly according to the seasonal and local foods available.

We had not one inch of space for dessert, John managed an Espresso

Chef Ivor Jones hard at work on the Pass

The bill

Amusing and clever signage in the loo

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Thursday, August 16, 2018

This Week’s MENU. Mensa wine launch, Kanonkop, Diemersdal Sauvignons. Jenny Morris’ Yumcious restaurant, Venison sausages, KWV Mentors Shiraz

It never rains but it pours, and we’re not talking about the weather – we wish we were. A few weeks ago, it was a very quiet time and we were wondering how we would have enough stories to tell. Suddenly, there are almost too many events on our calendar. We have tasted some magnificent wines, with more to come and enjoyed some wonderful food. Some of it is in this week’s issue, more will follow in the next few weeks. We hope you’ll enjoy seeing them

Launch of Mensa - a new 'bestseller' with a twist

An invitation from Overhex wines to taste and experience their new range of wines called Mensa. A first in South Africa is the interactive labels. Scan them with your phone and the secret story of the wine is revealed. And there is no barcode in sight. The wine is named after grandmother Emmarentia Cornelia, whose nickname it was, and it has no connection to the organisation for high IQ people. The launch was held at The Library in Kloof Street

Tasting and lunch at Kanonkop

Who could refuse an invitation to taste a range of current and vintage wines at Kanonkop? This high flying cellar has always produced classy wines, wines that sell, wines that are respected and wines that win international and local awards. They wanted to give us an opportunity to taste older vintages so we could understand the style of wines they produce, how they age and understand why they make and stay with these styles. They are always questioning how to stay relevant in such a changing climate

Tasting Diemersdal Sauvignons at the cellar

An invitation to Diemersdal to taste their newly released Sauvignons Blanc. Cellarmaster Thys Louw (a confessed Sauvignon Blanc addict) now has 10 Sauvignon Blancs in his range, all different and good. First was the new 2018 Winter Ferment Sauvignon Blanc

Jenny Morris launches a new restaurant in Durbanville: Yumcious

TV and Radio chef and big personality, Jenny Morris is famous for her good cooking, her ebullient nature and sense of fun. Durbanville is in for a treat; she has now opened a second branch of her restaurant Yumcious (the first is in the Cape Quarter in Cape Town) in the De Ville shopping centre on the corner of Main and Wellington roads. We were invited to come for lunch on Sunday with some other media and bloggers. It was a lovely way to spend a Sunday having lunch.

What’s on the MENU this week. Venison sausages in red wine with beans

Venison or game meat like springbok is relatively inexpensive in the winter when it is in season and the sausages are very reasonable. This lovely one pot dish is easy to make, does not take long and tastes delicious. You could spice it up with a little chilli if you want to, we added a splash or two of Tabasco. If you don’t have the redcurrant or cranberry jellies, add a spoonful of honey. You need the sweetness. This feeds four. Click here or on the title to see the whole recipe

Wine of the Week KWV 2012 The Mentors Shiraz

It was from our cellar, but Lynne spoke to Izelle van Blerk, the winemaker, and it is still available from the KWV Emporium

Light smoky oak, ripe cherries and berries, incense and minerality with pepper and cinnamon spice on the nose. Silky on the rich palate, complex with beautify bruléed fruit, black pepper warmth, some herbal notes and a long finish with a dark coffee wood on the end. All the grapes are from Paarl and the wine spent 18 months in oak. A classy wine perfect for venison and other rich spicy dishes. Delicious

16th August 2018

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Phones: +27 21 439 3169 / 083 229 1172 / 083 656 4169

Postal address: 60 Arthurs Rd, Sea Point 8005

Recommendations of products and outside events are not solicited or charged for, and are made at the authors’ pleasure. All photographs, recipes and text used in these newsletters and our blogs are © John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus. Our restaurant reviews are usually unsolicited. We prefer to pay for our meals and not be paid in any way by anyone. Whether we are invited or go independently, we don’t feel bad if we say we didn’t like it. Honesty is indeed our best policy. While every effort is made to avoid mistakes, we are human and they do creep in occasionally, for which we apologise. This electronic journal has been sent to you because you have personally subscribed to it or because someone you know has asked us to send it to you or forwarded it to you themselves. Addresses given to us will not be divulged to any person or organisation. We collect them only for our own promotional purposes. If you wish to be added to our mailing list, please click here to send us a message and if you wish to be removed from our mailing list

Launch of Mensa - a new bestseller with a twist

An invitation from Overhex wines to taste and experience their new range of wines called Mensa. A first in South Africa is the interactive labels. Scan them with your phone and the secret story of the wine is revealed. And there is no barcode in sight. The wine is named after grandmother Emmarentia Cornelia, whose nickname it was, and has no connection to the organisation for high IQ people

The launch was held at The Library, a restaurant in Kloof Street

This is the library, where we sat comfortably while we tasted the wines, ate some good food and heard the story from Caroline van Schalkwyk

One of the other rooms of this restaurant

Gerhard van der Wath, Executive Chairman/Owner tells us about the wines. There are five wines planned in the portfolio. We tasted the Chardonnay Pinot Noir, the Sauvignon Blanc and the Cabernet Sauvignon. They will go into the mid-price range market at R70 to R80 a bottle

Winemaker Ben Snyman talks about the wines. The Sauvignon Blanc has tropical passion fruit, gooseberries and herbal notes. The Chardonnay (80%) and Pinot Noir (20%) blush wine, he says, has backbone; he adds texture and layers of fruit. You can taste both varietals, the wooding is quite noticeable and the Pinot Noir speaks first. The Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 spends 8 months in oak and is from Bot Rivier, Swartland and Breedekloof grapes. It has sweet oak and the usual Cabernet flavours

Author Amy Heydenrych was there to sign copies of her novel "Shame on You". We were all given a copy by Overhex

The wines all use Amorim Cork's Helix cork closure, a mushroom shaped composite cork designed for easy opening without a corkscrew

The three wines. If you see them in the shops, scan the label for the secret story

The restaurant has this nice glassed in verandah

and a long table for big parties

PRO Gudrun Clark and Andisani Sibiya

Amy Heydenrych signing our book

Spring rolls with a dipping sauce

The book

small wrapped kebabs

The spicy squid was very popular. There were also very good prawns

Polenta sticks, breadcrumbed and deep fried

Some lovely sweet temptations

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Tasting Diemersdal Sauvignons at the cellar

Adorning the parking area are the Strelitzia reginae plants. It is a monocotyledonous flowering plant indigenous to South Africa. Common names include strelitzia, crane flower or bird of paradise, though these names are also collectively applied to other species in the genus. This one really does look like a crane

Rachel welcomed us with a glass of their Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc, fruity and full of refreshing passion fruit, gooseberries, and limes; it reminded us of a German Sekt

The line up of wines we were to taste

First was the new 2018 Winter Ferment Sauvignon Blanc where Thys has used a new method of making for South Africa. It has perfume, tropical jube jube sweets on the nose, and is very tropical and concentrated in style on the palate. The fermentation of the wine is postponed for four months as the juice is frozen, When it is defrosted it goes through a 2 weeks fermentation, temperature controlled at 14-16° C and is bottled soon after. They do this in New Zealand and it does mean that fresh wine will be available in the middle of the year

Taking our seats for the tasting in the restaurant which was closed for the function. The Reserve 208 Sauvignon Blanc has pyrazines, peppers, herbs and fynbos on the nose, clean citrus crispness also with herbal notes, long flavours and a hint of salt on the end. A classic rendition. And then we were excited to taste the new 2018 Eight Rows. The grapes were planted in 1992 on 1.1 hectares. It is Thys's epiphany wine, his favourite and ours. Elderflowers with grey minerality, quite shy initially. Clean, clear juice, lovely classic Sauvignon Blanc, long flavours of figs, green pepper, limes and minerality on the palate. A food wine

PR Consultant Emile Joubert welcomed us. Next we tasted the MM Louw 2017 Sauvignon Blanc, made from a vineyard planted in 1982. Its in the Blanc Fumé style; they use 40 to 50% new oak, big 500 litre barrels that are rolled to stir the lees, so the wine has a light smoky character. Sweet pear fruit, green peas, & leafiness on the nose, a typical Sauvignon blanc palate of Elderflower, green pepper, figs; crisp and clean with some caramel wood on the end. Needs time. Sauvignon Blanc needs to age to become superb, this is not suited to early drinking

Thys tells us about the wines. He really is passionate about what he does. Our next wine was the MM Louw 2013 Sauvignon Blanc The age has made it a magnificent wine. Asparagus and peas on the nose as expected, clean on the palate with more peas and long lemon citrus flavours, rounded wood on the end. This wine has layers of flavour and minerality and is superb. Our highest scoring wine

Then the Private Collection 2016 Bordeaux Blend with a pretty floral nose from the Petite Verdot, wood smoke and cassis, cherry fruit.. Velvet on the palate with nice dark berries and dark chocolate and coffee wood. And finally something from the vinoteque, the Private Collection 1984 Red Blend of Cabernet, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Cola notes on the nose, the wine is red brown with an orange rim. The merlot brings soft sweet and sour fruit and warmth with hints of Brett. The wine has lasted well, but doesn’t stay long in the glass. Tannins wood and some fruit remain.

Time to move on to the red wines. They are 40% of Diemersdal's production. First, the Pinotage Reserve 2017. 2009 was the maiden vintage; the block was planted in 1972. Merlot cherry and red berry notes on the nose, with lactic hints and wood smoke. On the palate, chalky tannins first then chocolate cherries and a dry finish. This needs age. Fermented in open kuipe, then malolactic fermentation takes place spontaneously in French oak barrels from March to May, 14 months. Take the time to cellar this wine. We can announce that this wine is one of the Top 10 Pinotages this year, awarded today 16th August 2018

Locally grown and regionally sourced produce inspire Chef Martin De Kock to blend his classical French training with the flavours of Provencal France, Spain and a touch of Asia. The herbs and some of the vegetables are from the kitchen garden, the preserves and pickles home-made and the bread freshly baked. (Quote from the farms web pages). He told us that he changes the menu as he finds the produce locally and in season. Tapas are changed twice a week, the menu twice a month

The lunch menu sounded very good and it was

Cape Wine Master Duimpie Bayly and journalist Esme Erasmus of Die Tygerburger in conversation

They make their own masa for the taco. It was topped with crisp tempura prawns and charred sweet corn, with smoked avocado, lime, and chipotle chilli. Zingy, tingling with flavour and texture

Tako Yaki is one of Japan's best-known street food translates as octopus balls. A crisp fried dumpling which reminded us of the bread sausages in Portugal, topped with katsuyobushi, dried flakes of fermented smoked tuna with pickled ginger, a smoked fish gel, spring onions, mayonnaise and micro greens. Another taste and texture sensation. We drank these two dishes with the 2017 Grüner Veltliner which is aromatic and herbal, crisp and clean with good sugar balanced by acidity, very true to its Austrian parents, a characterful food wine par excellence

A barley and Jerusalem artichoke "risotto" topped with mustard flower seeds and leaves. So full, creamy rich and satisfying

We had the 2017 Malbec with this dish. Chewy with a big nose, savoury, sweet velvet fruit which keeps on giving. On the palate, candy, cherry and aged sweet balsamic; sour sweet fruit, long dark flavours with salt, liquorice and some Pinot character on the end

On to the main course. There were two. First, the Slow cooked pork belly with wonderful whirls of crisp salted crackling. The pork was cooked sous vide for 12 to 14 hours. Presented on a reduction of palm sugar and rum, baby beetroots, with a lemongrass and pistachio praline and a smoked beetroot puree. Complex, rich and an interesting mix of flavours

Tender Chalmar Sirloin with a waterblommetjie bourguignon, king oyster mushrooms, richly caramelised onions, a paper thin potato tuille and foraged herbs and flowers

Dessert was a try of bite sized Friandise L to R. We were not given descriptions, so this is what we tasted. A Turkish delight made with too much agar agar, so the texture was more vegetable than dessert; a half of a ginger and pecan nut muffin with a coffee choc vinegar dots and chocolate chips; a mini macaron with rice cream had savoury and grape jam flavours; a brandy snap shard on date puree and a chocolate crisp truffle; a mini fritter dumpling which resembled a canele, topped with dehydrated raspberries

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Wednesday, August 15, 2018

What’s on the MENU this week. Venison sausages in red wine with beans

Venison or game meat like springbok is relatively inexpensive in the winter when it is in season and the sausages are very reasonable. This lovely one pot dish is easy to make, does not take long and tastes delicious. You could spice it up with a little chilli if you want to; we added a splash or two of Tabasco. If you don’t have the redcurrant or cranberry jellies, add a spoonful of honey. You need the sweetness. This feeds four

1T= 1 Tablespoon 1t = 1 teaspoon

Ingredients

2 T olive oil - 400 g venison sausages - 1 medium onion, halved and sliced - 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped - 1 t fennel seeds , lightly crushed - 4 heaped T tomato passata - 400 ml good chicken stock - 100 ml good Shiraz - 2 celery sticks, thinly sliced - 2 carrots, chopped into rings – 1 t fresh rosemary, chopped – 2 bay leaves - Freshly ground black pepper - 1 t redcurrant jelly or cranberry sauce – 400 g can cannellini (haricot) beans, drained - ½ small bunch parsley, finely chopped – salt and pepper

Method

Heat the oil in a deep casserole with a lid. Add the sausages and cook, turning them, until they are light brown. Lift from the pan, and set aside. Add the onion and cook, stirring, for 5-8 minutes until softened and beginning to take on colour. Add the fennel seeds and garlic and allow them to toast for a minute or two. Add the Shiraz, turn up the heat and let it quickly reduce by half. Then add the tomato passata, rosemary and bay leaves. Stir and cook for three or four minutes to blend the flavours, and then add the stock. Add a good grating of black pepper, then cover and leave to cook for 15 minutes until the vegetables are soft. Add the sausages and the beans and cook until warmed through. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. (If your sausages are not linked, cut them into 5 or 6 cm pieces). Sprinkle on the parsley and serve

This went perfectly with our Wine of the Week

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MENU's Wine of the Week. KWV 2012 The Mentors Shiraz

The wine we enjoyed with this week's recipe was from our cellar, but Lynne spoke to Izelle van Blerk, the winemaker, today and it is still available from the KWV Emporium

Light smoky oak, ripe cherries and berries, incense and minerality with pepper and cinnamon spice on the nose. Silky on the rich palate, complex with beautify bruléed fruit, black pepper warmth, some herbal notes and a long finish with dark coffee wood on the end. All the grapes are from Paarl and the wine spent 18 months in oak. A classy wine perfect for venison and other rich spicy dishes

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About us

MENU, our weekly email newsletter, started as an advertising medium for Main Ingredient, our specialist retail grocery business. We opened our Sea Point shop in December 2002 because realised that there was a place in South Africa for a grocer catering to people with sophisticated tastes and needs. We moved the shop on line in 2010, but discontinued it in 2015, having decided that it is time to “retire” and concentrate on our writing, photography and tour guiding. MENU has a wide circulation and is read nationally and internationally.

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