An interesting invitation to this event; one we
were keen to attend. The chance to taste and possibly future purchase En
Primeur 2017 vintage Cabernet Sauvignons from 32 of the best producers in
Stellenbosch. They group themselves under the title Stellenbosch Cabernet
Collective. Wine Cellar was involved and you could place your orders with them.
This is a varietal that Stellenbosch excels at and they produce wines that echo
Bordeaux in style and weight.
First we were invited to attend a master class to
taste two wines from each of four farms: an older vintage and a current
vintage. This was held in one of the handsome conference halls. The building
was badly damaged in the 2017 fire, but has been beautifully restored. We were
told that they have since discovered that this was one of the original wine
cellars, possibly from the 1800s
This beautiful chandelier
graces the room
This was the tasting sheet
and the first of two flights was poured
Christo le Riche, convenor of
the Master Class, introduced Johan Jordaan
who makes the red wines at Spier
Johan Jordaan presented the Spier
Naledi Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 which has a beautiful nose of pure berry fruit,
minerality and soft smoke. It was silky on the palate, full of rich berry
fruit. A huge wine with lots of depth, dark toasted wood, minerality and still
some chalky tannins on the end. As it aged in the glass more savoury marmite
appeared. The vineyards are on the Helderberg, right next to Cordoba. Left on
the skins for a longer time to get tannins. It’s in the French model, left in
tight grained oak for a minimum of 2 years. Paired with this was the Spier 21
Gables 2015 Cabernet. Raspberry cordial and cherry pie on the nose, then some
tomato leaf. Silky on the palate, then tight chalky tannins appear; dark
toasted oak, with mulberries and cassis. Minerality and then dark chocolate on
the end. Definite aging potential
Kanonkop Marketing Manager
Diedre Taylor
Rudi Schultz of Thelema
presented the next two wines. He joined Thelema in 2001, so was not responsible
for the older wine. It is one of the famous 'Mint' cabernets from their block next
to the entrance to the farm which has been influenced by the eucalyptus trees. Thelema
Cabernet 1995, 13% alcohol and brick red. A very savoury nose, with olive
tapenade, green peppers and tomato, lots of umami notes. Sweet fruit on the
palate with a backbone of tomato mint and dark chocolate. lots of cassis, some
chalky tannins do remain and salty liquorice on the end. We were surprised how
well it has lasted, but if you have any drink soon. They still make the mint
cabernet for its fans, but now have another vineyard high on the slopes of the
mountain, which is unaffected by eucalyptus. The Thelema 2015 Cabernet
Sauvignon. Expensive incense wood, elegant and not too forward, with cassis
berries and leaves, and some forest floor on the nose. Silky on the palate with
beautiful fruit, just so integrated and delicious, it has it all to last for
years. Some good chalky tannins, good fruit acidity and excellent wooding.
Lynne’s highest scoring wine
The next flight of four wines
Warren Ellis of Neil Ellis
wines presented their two vintages. First the Neil Ellis 1997 Cabernet from the
Jonkershoek Oude Nectar farm, now Starke Conde. Savoury tomato cocktail with
wood supporting, but not overly appreciable on the nose. Soft sweet fruit, then
tomato and balsamic flavours; a good alcohol kick even though it’s 12.5%, and
long blackcurrant fruit gum flavours remain. Aging well. Warren told us that
Stellenbosch has some of the oldest soils in the world, decomposed granite with
deep clay banks that give the roots more space below. The soils higher up are a
bit younger, with deep red soil and the clay base which produces more vigorous
vines which give powerful structure to the wines. Then the Neil Ellis 2015
Cabernet from Klein Gustrow Grapes in the Jonkershoek valley. It is perfumed
with musk and seaweed, shy cassis. Soft chalky tannins, puckering tannin, crisp
cabernet fruit, lots of cassis, warmth from alcohol, green leaves follow with
dark toasted oak; everything you need for aging Cabernet. He told us that they
use 100% new oak; they do no sorting of the grapes, they get the vineyard right
first. Timing of the harvest is important
Lanzerac winemaker Wynand
Lategan, with the Lanzerac 1957 Cabernet, told us this that was the first
Cabernet they made, the famous skittle bottles came later. What a treat and a
privilege to be able to taste this wine. It was made in huge vats in those
days, grapes from Lanzerac, but the wine was made at SFW. Dark burnt sienna in
colour, with balsamic hints on the nose, cooked berry fruit in essence, with
ginger pepper spice. Showing age, but this is 61 years old. Surprising soft
sweet fruit, warm alcohol; amazing that so much fruit is still showing and so is
the fruit acid which is still there. Dark toasted wood, then cassis and
mulberry and still some chalky tannins. These old style wines were made to a
recipe, when to pick, at what balling, how to vinify and they do last
The Lanzerac 2016 Cabernet came
next. Sesame oil, some shy red fruit initially, then cooked cherries on the
nose. Sweet fruit, crisp fruit acid on the palate; made to last and soften,
cherry rather than cassis flavours predominate, chalky tannins, and it is quite
grippy with complex molasses, wood on the end. Wynand says you have to have
patience with wine
The original Lanzerac Cabernet
Sauvignon 1957
The line up of the wines we
tasted. It was extremely educational and a treat. Thank you
The old reception area of the
hotel, completely restored after the fire
A bust of a gentleman. It
was damaged in the fire but is still displayed
From the costume, possibly c.1800
From the costume, possibly c.1800
We then proceeded to the Cellar
Hall Venue to taste the 28 en Primeur Cabernet Sauvignons. Have a look at the
website of the Stellenbosch Cabernet Collective. https://stellenboschcabernet.co.za/about-us/
to see the 32 current members. The wines, without exception, were showing well,
some are excellent and quite eye opening. We expect wines this young, and many
samples had been pulled from barrels that week, to be a bit harsh and
difficult. Not at all, they showed their character well and you could see that
they have the right components to be great wines one day. In amongst them are
some rising stars and some exceptional Cabernets. We can make good Cabernet in
our own style, because they echo our terroir and climate and our wine makers
are becoming expert at making them. We don't have to copy France, or any other
country; our Cabernets are beginning to come to the fore. If you are interested
in buying any of these, do contact Roland Peens at the Wine Cellar, soon. www.winecellar.co.za
Some canapés were produced and
we were very grateful for them. Salmon and avocado on a spoon
savoury crumbed deep fried balls
of pulled lamb with mayonnaise and beetroot
The wines were on stands around
the room with the winemaker or someone with knowledge from the farm if the
winemaker could not be present. We tasted all 28 and Lynne was tempted by one
and bought a case, to be delivered in 2021!
Chef Christophe Dehosse of Glenelly and Murray Barlow, winemaker at Rustenburg
Murray is a Diners Club 2018 Winemaker of the Year finalist
Murray is a Diners Club 2018 Winemaker of the Year finalist
Lynne with the boys. Wim Braak, National Wine Sales Manager at Zevenwacht Wine Estate and Desmond Binneman, National Sales & Marketing Manager at Muratie
Jordan winemaker Sjaak Nelson
Tokara winemaker Stuart Botha with his wife Gemma
© John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus 2018
