Thursday, February 14, 2019

Piekenierskloof Wines tasted at Hebron Guesthouse & Restaurant

We love travelling out into the country and were really intrigued when we received an invitation to Piekenierskloof, an area up the N7 about 2 hours from Cape Town that we have not visited before. It is near Citrusdal and we have not ventured into that area for several years. Coincidentally, we had driven near it on our way back from holiday in Lambert's Bay, having taken the wrong road home
These are views of the valley from the top of the Piekenierskloof Pass
You can almost feel the heat of high summer in the dry valley
and see why the black mountains have given the area its Swartland moniker
Below is one of the citrus farms that proliferate in the area and in the far distance is the West Coast
Farms dot the landscape and, down in the valley, the main crop is wheat
The shaved fields look like striped tweed at the moment
The Atlantic Ocean is just over the horizon
We had been invited to come and taste Pikenierskloof wines https://www.piekenierskloofwines.co.za/ and to stay overnight at Hebron Guesthouse which is high in the mountain, right at the top of the pass
It has good accommodation, a small shop, a restaurant and has the Piekenierskloof tasting room. It is rustic and charming. You can find them on https://www.booking.com/hotel/za/hebron-guesthouse-amp-restaurant.en-gb.html
An outside seating area
They do get lots of people stopping off on their way up or down the N7 and Citrusdal is just a few kilometres away. The restaurant is very popular.
The reception is in the restaurant building
Hebron is run by Caro & Steve Oldroyd and owned by Caro's mother Jenny. It is child friendly
Steve is a chef who spent several years in London. They moved back 10 years ago
to live and work at Hebron and take over from Caro's mum who bought the place many years ago
The restaurant has several rooms for those wishing to sit inside
There is a covered terrace and seating in the garden near the swimming pool
Lots of bygones decorate Hebron
Beautiful summer sunflowers
We had booked for dinner and on Friday nights they have Pizza night
In the shop, some good jams and chutneys. We couldn’t resist the Seville orange marmalade
Our wine tasting had been booked for 13h00 at the Piekenierskloof Tasting room where we met Janine de Vries, who runs things there. She is nice and sparky, knows a lot about the wine and has a good palate. You can also do a Carmien Rooibos tea tasting. If you want to do one of these special tastings, you have to prebook
It was too hot to sit outside
So we took a table at one of the windows. Our tasting of Piekenierskloof Grenaches was to be paired with four canapés, matched to the wines and they would be served from outside, a clever arrangement, as food was delivered from the kitchen
Some of the wines for sale
The tasting room is small, but cool
Our view from the tasting room
Janine pours us our first wine, Piekenierskloof 2017 Chenin Blanc, while we waited for the food for the pairing to arrive. It is quite tropical on the nose and palate, warm and full. The 2018 is full of fresh, golden fruit acidity, biting lemons, granadilla and loquats; it's a hot country Chenin and needs time to soften
These are the pairings to go with the four Grenaches. They are served, not on a plate, but on a dried palm branch
Rather appropriate to Hebron, which is named after Hebron, a city on the West Bank in Palestine
Chef Steve explains the food
The first wine was the 2017 White Grenache, with an almost Semillon nose, warm fruit and wood. On the palate, it's full of citrus, bitter grapefruit and naartjie (tangerine) flavours, rather satisfying and hard to describe. It was paired with a crostini with ripe camembert and a rich and rather sweet cranberry jam. We felt that the sweetness of the cranberry overpowered the wine - perhaps marmalade with its citrus might work better?
The second wine was the 2018 Grenache Rosé, perfumed with rose petals and red plums. Slightly pétillant, with red wine flavours of raspberry, strawberry and red plums, it has long flavours. Paired with green olives stuffed with bokkom, coated in panko crumbs and deep fried. The concept of the pairing had us worried. Bokkoms are strongly flavoured, salted, sun dried mullet; a delicacy to West Coast people, but not to us. However, in this guise with the strong green olives, they took the place of good anchovies and, because of the salt, they worked very well with the wine. The olives came with a dip of a smoky tomato relish
Next came the 2016 Grenache Noir which is garnet in colour. Elderberry and a little bloody on the nose, it has the tart, sharp fruit acids of cranberry and plum with long flavours. Rather southern French in style with good ageing potential. It was paired with a Parmesan cheese straw and a rich mushroom dip, which was an excellent pairing, as it enhanced the wine well
The final wine to be paired was the 2015 Heirloom Red; a blend of 45% Grenache, 45% Shiraz, 5% Mourvedre and 5% Tannat. Janine describes this wine as Black Forest Gateau and indeed it is. There is chocolate and sponge cake, kirsch and black cherry on the nose. Black and red cherries on the palate; rich, hot, spicy and fulfilling. The 2016 is soon to be released. The pairing was inspired, one of the very best we have done in a long time. Steve has made a beetroot and rose water Turkish Delight topped with dark Lindt chocolate and a sprinkling of white pepper grains. He says its the most difficult item to make, as it has to be made fresh and refrigerated, but is absolutely delicious and so good with the wine. It makes it shine
The list of wines with prices. We also tasted the 2016 Single Vineyard Berg en Dal Chenin; full of honey, tinned pineapple on the nose with lime and pineapple on the palate, long flavours with hints of wood smoke on the end. Very good
Their line-up. We did have a palate refresher of the Carmine Honey Bush tea, but not the rooibos
Garnet red on the 2016 Cinsault, which has smoke, paprika, thyme and fynbos on the nose. Soft and silky on the palate, with liquorice, chocolate umami, long plum and cherry berry fruit. Concentrated wood remains on the end. Has potential
The pool area. Do remember to take your swimming costumes
and a view of the valley below, near Citrusdal
Those are the Cederberg mountains in the distance; we have to come back to visit them later in the year
Harvest is upon us, so February is a busy time of the year up here
Misty early evening light
The garden was set up for a 30th birthday celebration that night and they were a very good crowd; not at all loud, just happy
Because of the function, there were a couple of other options besides Pizza
so Lynne had the Beef burger which comes with chips and a mustardy dip
John had the fig, ham and blue cheese Pizza. We had brought with us a bottle of Glenelly Estate Reserve 2014
and one of Cape Point’s 2018 Cape Town Sauvignon blanc. Both were superb
The restaurant does not have a licence, so you can drink your own wine or buy something from the tasting room, when it is open
Our table on the stoep. There were lots of foreign visitors staying at Hebron, some from Germany and others from Sweden
John finished with a chocolate ice cream sundae topped with nuts and crumbled meringue, followed by a good espresso
Our room was the third of the three rooms along the verandah of this building
This was our beautiful room, well decorated, very comfortable and cool
The antique cot in the corner became a resting place for cushions overnight but could be useful if you have a small baby
The tiny bathroom is very adequate and has a shower built into one wall.
Our bedroom window. We love the tiny bird hangers on each window;
they do seem to discourage insects from flying into the rooms
Each room has its own chairs outside on the porch which has a lovely view of the garden
Car parking is close by, so not far to carry luggage
Breakfast the next morning was perfect. Lynne had the Classic English with fresh sunny side up fried eggs, oh so crisp bacon (thank YOU! you would be surprised how much leather bacon we are served), tomato, and a small cake of sausage meat. Accompanied by a pot of green tea with lemon, and toast, butter and jam
John had the enjoyable brioche French toast with bacon, syrup and berries. He had two cups of black coffee
We must mention the cheerful and friendly staff who smooth the way
And while he was taking some photos in the garden, he found some turkeys. They do have hens as well
What a lovely overnight stay, we felt very well cared for. Thank You to all at Hebron

Overnight at Tierhoek wine estate, Piekenierskloof

Our friend Shelley Sandell owns Tierhoek wine farm in the Piekenierskloof and, when she heard we were going to be in the area at the weekend for Saturday night, she offered us a stay at the farm afterwards, which we were very happy to accept. She and her late husband Tony bought the farm in 2001 and discovered very old Chenin and Grenache bush vines, which they have cultivated. They are part of the Old Vines Project. Tierhoek wines have won several good awards. They also modernised the old farm buildings, but in a very respectful way, to preserve their heritage
We were joined by Ryno Kellerman, the Farm Manager, who gave us an extremely good tasting of the Tierhoek wines. He makes the wine with Roger Burton. We tasted several vintages as well. Because it was very hot outside, we did the tasting in the kitchen, filled with echoes of a bygone age and lovely period furniture, as is the rest of the house. We began with the 2018 Chardonnay. Typical, elegant, buttery, clean and crisp with limes and lemon and soft tannins and length. The 2017 is sweeter, more lemon and naartjie flavours - a food wine. The 2018 Sauvignon Blanc is also typical with green pepper and figs. Lively and exciting on the creamy palate with classic crisp Sauvignon Blanc flavours of English gooseberries, lemon.. Surprising for this warm area, but then we were on the second highest wine farm in the country. They are at 760 metres above sea level and only 40 Km from the sea. Old barrels are used to give just a hint of smoke. The 2017 Chenin Blanc is shy with some gooseberries and golden fruit, crisp on the palate with apples, ripe apricots, and lovely long flavours. The 2015 is full on the nose with incense wood smoke. Sweet apple and pear on the round mouthful with length and depth. Nice to see what the 2017 can become; the 2018 has just been bottled. The 2016 Chenin has honey notes with yellow apple. More Golden Delicious apple on the full palate, a food wine which would be perfect with rich food like a duck liver mousse
Then time to taste the red wines. Ryno is actually a lot friendlier than he looks when his photo is being taken! We began with the 2016 Grenache. Candy, pomegranate and cranberry on the nose, with wood smoke. Cranberry fruit, some cola and cough candy flavours, lovely sweet fruit on the end.  The 2017 Grenache has rich cherry with smoke hints; very appealing. Soft sweet berry fruit, cranberry, cherry, long sweet and sour flavours; needs time, but becoming good. The 2018 is light rose in colour, it has had skin contact, but is from a lighter year. Cranberry and incense wood on the nose. More a rosé with body: fruit, warm alcohol and sour sweet flavours, then some cherry. Intrigued to see how it will develop. The 2017 GSM has 45% Grenache, 43% Shiraz, 12% Mourvedre. Spice. incense wood, white pepper; lots of soft tannins and full of plummy  fruit. We had it with our braai. Which, sadly, was a bit of a disaster. We had bought rump steaks from Woolworths and they were so heavily spiced with hot smoked paprika that they tasted like bacon. NOT what we wanted. And the Grabouw wors from Checkers was also badly over seasoned.  Luckily we had salad, cheese and ham as a backup
Old copper moulds
Wow, lots of 'legs' on the red wines and lovely clear Grenache colour
Not just garlic!
The wines that we tasted
A view over the vines to the dam. Tierhoek is very high in the mountains, about 760 metres above sea level;
your ears pop when you drive down to the valley
Early evening; we sat outside while we waited for the fire for our braai to reach the hot coals stage
Local wood and wingerdstokkies (old vine stumps) make excellent coals
Lovely evening light
The old house has been opened up. This is the comfortable lounge with, at the end, the en suite bedroom we slept in
The view through to the kitchen and, on the right, the passage to another twin bedroom and the front door
It was so warm that we slept with only a sheet
Shelley tells us that the only thing in the house when they bought it was the stove! They put in everything else
We visited two years after they bought the farm and remember having supper in the much more simply furnished kitchen
The lab processed our slide film as negative, hence the strange colour
A large kitchen table
The view of the back of the house
Early Sunday morning; the mist lifts from over the Cederberg mountains
More vines in the distance
Harvest began this week, the grapes hang heavy on the vines and Ryno has to keep frightening off the baboons
with loud bangs. They want to invade and gorge themselves, and the destruction is expensive
A view over the vines to another house on the farm
An interesting albino plant
Beautiful trusses of Chenin Blanc in the old vineyard
As we departed on Sunday, you could see the heat rising over the farm
We drove across from Piketberg to the coast road as, when we drove up on Friday, we discovered that the N7 before and after Malmesbury is a nightmare of road works which have gone on for years. We see no finish in sight and the works are scattered all along the road, now even after Malmesbury. It adds a lot of time to your journey. We reached Laaiplek at Velddrif at nearly two and needed to stop for a cool beer and some lunch. The Riviera Hotel has historic meaning for us, so we stopped here. Perhaps not a very wise choice
It is right on the bank of the Berg River estuary on its way to the sea, where it washes the salt marshes
There are lots of sea birds on the vlei. Sadly, the South Easter was howling, so we had to sit inside
The bridge over the Berg River is old and has to take lots of heavy traffic, especially the huge double dumper trucks going to the Saldanha steel works
Lads having fun in the sun on the water
The estuary is very popular with speedboat pilots and fishermen
They have a Sunday buffet for R145. Sadly it did not attract us. Too much food for us and it was also not very appealing. Their market seems to be local
Lynne had Hake and chips. It was a very large piece of hake in soggy batter and was probably several years older
than when it was caught. Comes with chips, salad and tartare sauce
John had a hamburger and chips. We each had a refreshing Windhoek 'draught' beer in a bottle, Service was very slow
Then we headed home down the R27 which was quick and surprisingly free flowing for Sunday afternoon. We were home by 5