With rises in temperature in wine areas
worldwide now 2 to 2.5% higher, farms are looking at dry land grapes that can
tolerate heat. We are not France, so continuing to grow delicate grapes that
need cool growing conditions long term is something farmers are having to take
into account. Even France is becoming warmer and getting higher alcohols in
their wines. Gary and Kathy Jordan at Jordan bought some more land a few years
ago. It appears to be perfect for the Assyrtiko grape, grown mostly in Greece,
which performs well in a high altitude stony vineyard with cooling winds and
dry land conditions. They have investigated this wine for years, at last gained
access to the vines and will soon plant them on Jordan. We were invited to
visit the farm and taste some of these wines from Greece and the only Assyrtiko
from outside Greece, which is made in Australia…
"It’s that bloody
photographer again, capturing our souls......" Marcha Cooke, Gary Jordan
and Jon Meinking
Marketing Assistant Melanie
Melville and Marcha Cooke, Jordan's Sales Manager
Drinks on arrival were the
2018 Crisp and delicious Cold Fact Sauvignon Blanc and the 2018 Real McCoy
Riesling
First, Gary spoke to us about
the geology of the Winelands
"Could Assyrtiko be grown successfully in
Stellenbosch?" accompanied by some informative slides
Gary Jordan trained first as
a Geologist and then as a winemaker, so he is very knowledgeable about the
soils on their farm and in the Cape Winelands. Here is a picture of him in one
of the old tin mines beneath Jordan
This and the following photographs, until the pic of the amphora, are from Gary's slide show
And some of the rocks had to
be taken out by explosives
That did become rather interesting at times when
explosions, which can be unpredictable, blew things in the wrong directions!
This is a view of the new
vineyards on the top of the far hill. The Assyrtiko vineyard will be affected
(in a good way)
and a view of Assyrtiko
vineyards on the Greek island of Santorini, where it is believed to have
originated
The Assyrtiko vines are first grown as bush vines, but after a
couple of years they are woven into a basket shape (koulara),
and the grapes encouraged
to grow inside the basket
Many years ago Kathy and Gary
visited the island and Gary took this photograph of 18 year old Kathy sitting in one of the
Assyrtiko basket vines. This was the beginning of their fascination and
determination to grow this grape in South Africa. The road has been long and
arduous as the grape was not permitted for many years. It is now and is soon to
be planted
And a view of the very rocky
soil it will be grown on. Assyrtiko performs best in a terroir which is high,
dry and cool with rocky soil
Winemaker Sjaak Nelson is
very excited about this new grape and has already put in an amphora
which will
be used to vinify some of the grapes
The wines from Greece
certainly are warm country wines, some aromatic in a rather Riesling way,
others wild and crisp and sunny, all have lots of fruit characteristics, often
layered, many with citrus and herbs. The sea is present on some, there is good
minerality and there are good fruit acids despite the fruit being really ripe
(this is a notable characteristic of Assyrtiko), and many have fullness and
roundness
About half had wood influence which adds to the flavour without overwhelming the fruit and nearly all were really enjoyable. We definitely think this is a grape that South Africans will enjoy drinking, especially with food. The Australian Assyrtiko which was only planted in 2012 is much more like an Australian dry, crisp Riesling. Quince like flavours, rather mouth puckering in its youth
About half had wood influence which adds to the flavour without overwhelming the fruit and nearly all were really enjoyable. We definitely think this is a grape that South Africans will enjoy drinking, especially with food. The Australian Assyrtiko which was only planted in 2012 is much more like an Australian dry, crisp Riesling. Quince like flavours, rather mouth puckering in its youth
Gary wanted to know which
wines had impressed us, so asked us to vote for our top two. The room had many
different favourites, but two wines did emerge as top versions of this grape.
One of these had very familiar Riesling flavours and Lynne asked whether people
had liked it so much because it was familiar. Why would we need to copy
Riesling when we can allow the real Assyrtiko flavours to develop when it is
grown on our soils in our climate. Now that prospect is really exciting
Our starter of Spanspek (orange
sweet melon) topped with a goats cheese mousse, thin grilled slices of fennel
bulb and fennel flowers and some slivers of smoked snoek. It sounded like a
disparate combination of flavours but in fact was rather good blend of texture
and summer flavours. We had The Outlier Sauvignon Blanc with this course
The main course was a roulade
of roasted Pork Belly, with a spiced beetroot and orange purée which cut
through the richness and fattiness of the pork and added the necessary fruitiness
that pork shines with. Topped with a Waldorf salad of apple and walnuts and
dressed with the jus from the meat. The 2017 Nine Yards Chardonnay and the
beautiful Sophia Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and
Merlot
Desserts were tiny crisp
pastry 'boats filled with lemon curd, or dark bitter chocolate ganache topped
with cream and a sliver of strawberry. And good coffee and tea were served
before we took our Uber back to Cape Town
We visited Santorini, the
home of Assyrtiko, in 2015. Click here to see the island and its vines in our 2015 story