Tuesday, May 14, 2019

Cape Wine Master Graduation Lunch at Neethlingshof

We were very grateful to be able to accept this invitation
We missed the event last year when we were travelling
Held at Neethlingshof wine estate in Stellenbosch on a perfect, warm Autumn day
A glass of the Hill and Dale fruity non vintage salmon pink Sparking Brut Rosé, made in the Prosecco style with 9.4 g/l sugar
It is made from Colombard and some good red Stellenbosch fruit. Lots of ripe strawberries and cherries, and good acid balance
One might hazard a guess at some Mourvedre and Merlot being added ...
Debi van Flymen CWM and Conrad Louw CWM, Chairman, Institute of Cape Wine Masters
Maryna Calow of WOSA in conversation with Cathy Brewer CWM of Villiera
Bennie Howard is always great as the Master of Ceremonies. He is informative, entertaining, and brief
He tells rather good stories too. He welcomed us to the event. This year, there is only one graduate
Niel van Deventer, Neethlingshof CEO, welcomed us to the farm. They were in the Distell stable but, in 2017, they moved away and the Schreiber family has taken the property back and are now the sole owners, looking to the future success of the farm
Neethlingshof Cellarmaster De Wet Viljoen told us that there is a lot of investment in the vineyards, cellars and the property. They have no shortage of wine at Neethlingshof and we should all come back and visit. He is enjoying the beautiful weather but he wants more rain this year - as do we all. He said 2019 was the most challenging harvest of his 16 years at Neethlingshof. The aromatics on white grapes were amazing; it is "Wait and See" on the reds. They are elegant wines, with low alcohols in the style of early 1980s wines
This is the wine served with the starter: Neethlingshof's excellent Gewürztraminer. From old dry land vines which will qualify for the Old Vines project next year. With rose petals, jasmine and honeysuckle on the nose and palate, this lovely wine has good fruit, nice balanced acidity and sweetness, it is just off dry. Lots of litchi and zesty citrus with a hint of spice

The menu
The Gewürz was the perfect match for this hot, spicy and creamy cauliflower soup,
dressed with crisp pancetta, roasted florettes of cauliflower and some sorrel
We were in the area designed for banqueting
There was a very large turnout of Cape Wine Masters at the Graduation, larger than they have had for many years
There are 102 Cape Wine Masters currently and just over 40 were at the ceremony
A toast from Bennie Howard CWM, Cathy van Zyl MW and Institute Chairman Conrad Louw CWM
This was Jacqui Henderson's day; she was graduating as a Cape Wine Master
Harry Melck CWM, Principal of the Cape Wine Academy
He told us that the Cape Wine Academy had just celebrated its 40th Birthday. It was inaugurated on the 1st of May 1979
and Jacqui Henderson was presented with her certificate and badge
She made an excellent speech, telling us about the hard work achieving this distinction entails and thanking all those who had helped her on this exciting journey of very tough study - her family, her friends, people in the industry and her teachers
She said that, for her, the hardest thing has been that she did not have the same confidence that her peers had, but today she graduates. Jacqui's thesis was on the Chardonnays of Elgin, which is quite appropriate as Jacqui handles Iona's local sales and Marketing. She works with Iona's owner Andrew Gunn and his wife Rosie. Rosie is Jacqui's sister. She told us that, while she grew up in the Eastern Cape and might have been expected to go to Rhodes University, she chose to go to university at UCT because that was where the wine was. But she had never tasted beer, let alone wine! But she was curious and tried one wine each month. She became a school teacher and taught for 20 years. Once she was working at Iona, she enrolled in the introductory course at the Cape Wine Academy, and went from there to where she is today. She is hard of hearing and said it was a real challenge. A hearing aid gave her courage. And there were several setbacks along the way with her second dissertation being lost when her car was burgled. She thanked her mentors like Winnie Bowman CWM, Brad Gold CWM (and GM at Iona), Juliet Garner, her study partner Karen Visser CWM, her family and especially her children and her husband Rob, whom she said had become a gourmet family cook while she studied. And also Melanie de Villiers who edited her thesis. Melanie whom Jacqui taught years ago, was present to see her get her certificate, as was her husband, Rob Henderson
A group photograph of all the Cape Wine Masters who were present
The main course was to be served with red wine, but we were also offered the Neethlingshof Sauvignon Blanc,
full of fig leaves and fig flavours, intensely green and full of pyrazines with good acidity
We found that we preferred it with the fish, even though we have no problem drinking red wine with fish
Villiera Cellarmaster Jeff Grier CWM had an important announcement for us
Duimpie Bailey CWM, a much loved and respected doyen in our profession will be turning 80 on the 1st of October this year
Duimpie gets a kiss from Winnie Bowman CWM
FC "Duimpie" Bayly CWM
and Jeff had another announcement. The Bubbly Producers of South Africa make a Passion for Bubbly Award to a person who achieves an outstanding score in tasting and awards the Villiera Sabre Trophy to inspire Cape Wine Masters to have a great love for Bubbly. At the AGM, one bottle of bubbly was drunk by each member present!
Please push this trend and help to celebrate the history and excitement of sparkling wine
And this award went to Jacqui Henderson CWM, who was very surprised and delighted to receive it and the Trophy,
which is a Sabre. Lessons in Sabrage would be given to her
Brad Gold CWM flashes that Sabre
and Rob Henderson holds the Certificate
The main course of Kingklip, served on a white bean, chorizo and baby spinach stew, topped with salsa verde
This was paired with the Neethlingshof Shiraz. Dark and deep in flavour, intense dark berry fruit with wood and licorice flavours
and some spice. It was served chilled
Dessert was a huge slice of rich Sticky Toffee Pudding, served with a chocolate and red berry gel
and a good sprinkling of roasted hazel nut crumble
The Neethlingshof Maria Noble Late Harvest was served with the dessert. Made from Riesling, it has honey and apricots on the nose and palate with a good marmalade end. It has a good acid sugar balance and so is not cloyingly sweet. The residual sugar is 180 g/l. We were also treated to Oude Meester 10 year old and Van Ryn 12 year old brandies with our coffees. It was a very enjoyable occasion. We often wonder what our lives would have been like if we had continued on to study for the Cape Wine Master qualification when we qualified with our diplomas from the Cape Wine Academy in 1999. We had the opportunity, having scored high enough marks to study for the Masters, but decided to open our wine and food shop instead. A good way to leave the corporate world!





All content ©  John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus
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WineMag Prescient Cabernet Report 2019

Last week, the 8th Annual Winemag.co.za Cabernet Sauvignon Report was held, sponsored by Prescient
Business Manager, Jacqueline (Jax) Lahoud said that from today, besides publishing the scores earned by the wines that entered, they will be awarding certificates to only the top 10 wines in this category. You can download the full report online at https://winemag.co.za/
Controversial!
Awaiting the results with bated breath
The awards event was held at Harrington’s restaurant on the eastern edge of central Cape Town
It's always interesting to see who has been invited to attend
Prescient CEO Craig Moxford shared his thoughts about the competition. This is their 4th year of sponsorship of the event
He thanked clients and partners and welcomed the winemakers. There were 194 entries this year from 76 producers
Prescient is 21 years old this year and is now a multinational global financial service provider
Editor of Winemag.co.za Christian Eedes told us that the three judges had not changed: Himself, James Petersen and Roland Peens. There were 43 wines that scored 90 points, and 15 scoring over 90. The standard of wine continues on a top curve, so it is not an easy job tasting and judging.  All this competition's data is on line. Leaf roll virus remains a huge issue. The best producers are managing it very well, also pyrazines, which do enhance the wines a bit. After 8 years, the panel has become more accepting of some greenness which adds freshness. They avoid overripe and over-oaked wines. There is a sub-set of light and fruity wines, more commercial he thinks. Christian thinks lighter bodied Cabernet is a contradiction. They score on the 100 point scale and are impressed with palate density, freshness and tension. Stellenbosch had 70% of the 90 plus point wines, so very well done. and there were two of exceptional quality.  The top wines have endured the competition many times and are very consistent
These were the 90 point wines
the 91 points
and the 92 point wines
Time to reveal the top 10 and taste them. Fleur du Cap 2016. It is herbal on the nose with green leaves, even forest floor aromas
Classic Cabernet nose with cassis and wood on the end; on the palate, cassis fruit, wood and soft chalky tannins
Neil Ellis 2017. Nice fruit on the nose; cherry, cassis, hint of wood. Grippy tannins, lovely intense cassis fruit, very long flavours,
all indicating a long life, so one to buy and put away
Blaauwklippen 2017, made by Narina Cloete. Forest floor with very dark berry fruit on the nose, sweet fruit on the palate;
so unlike the nose, mouth puckering grippy tannins, needs time
Delaire Graff 2017 Very good, with a classic Cabernet nose and incense wood
Good fruit, long flavours and freshness on the end
We were so impressed with the Kleine Zalze 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon that it was our Wine of the Week last week
Lovely mulberry fruit on the rich nose. Silky soft on the palate, with layers of cassis, cherry and mulberry fruit;
very soft chalky tannins, freshness and good wood support. This wine is already very accessible
and will continue to impress and improve with age. It has just been released
The Le Riche 2016 has an amazing richness on the nose; a signature of Le Riche wines
Warm fruit and alcohol, cassis and cherry flavours with tight tannins and great potential. This needs lots of time
Strydom 2017 Cabernet has lovely perfume on the nose and is full of cassis and incense wood
Dark intense fruit, a food wine with with many layers of dark cherry & berries
Plaisir de Merle 2015 has the classic cassis leaf and fruit with incense wood on the nose,
lighter in style with some licorice, cherries and cassis
Rust and Vrede Estate 2017 scored an impressive 94 points. Its a cassis bomb on the nose with perfume and lovely wood hints
in the background. Juicy, dark berries on the palate with a licorice end, drinking well now, but huge ageing potential
And the highest scoring wine of the competition is the 2017 Croydon Covenant Cabernet Sauvignon
Their first time in the competition and not often seen. A classic cabernet nose with incense wood and a hint of violets
- rather different from the others. Jammy fruit, cassis and blackberry, long fresh flavours with soft fruit and chalky tannins
All content ©  John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus
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Sauvignon Blanc Media Lunch at Janse & Co

“Change is happening”, said the Sauvignon Blanc Interest Group, so we were invited to join them and taste some impressive Sauvignons Blanc with lunch to find out what those changes were. The event was held at Janse and Co, where chef and owner Arno Janse van Rensburg now does his magic. We remember him and his cooking from Maison Restaurant in Franschhoek where he worked for several years
A glass of Steenberg's sparkling Sauvignon Blanc was on offer as we arrived
PRO Yolandi de Wet and photographer Angela Gorman
The restaurant is very modern and all in black, charcoal and grey. It is at 75 Kloof Street
Wines on offer with lunch; we could choose two at a time and had great enjoyment doing so. We were not driving that day
Some more excellent Sauvignon Blanc
Journalist and PRO Emile Joubert with winemaker JD Pretorius, who has just moved from Steenberg to Warwick. We were meant to sit outside but, sadly, the day was cold and damp so they moved us inside
The kitchen is open, so we could watch the chefs preparing the food. It is very intricate
Chef Owner Arno Janse van Rensburg
Arno and Liezl Odendaal about to begin service
The menu gives no hints at all about the dishes, just the ingredients therein
As canapés, we were served some salamis, some seed crackers and those Italian puffed breads called Gnoccho Fritto from Emilia Romagna - the second time in a week; they must be trending
Lots to go around
and more excellent Sauvignon Blanc, chilling in ice buckets
Kleine Zalze Winemaker R J Botha is Chairperson of Sauvignon Blanc SA. He told us that 40% of all wine sold in South Africa presently is Sauvignon Blanc and 80% of that is selling at premium prices, over the R100 a bottle threshold. This is 6 times more than Chenin, twice as much as Chardonnay and three times more than Cabernet Sauvignon. (Impressive figures). The consumers are prepared to pay for premium wines. The association is promoting Sauvignon Blanc in South Africa and abroad. Producers are in touch with new trends and, with the help and support of FNB, it is a huge success. Therefore it is time to take it to the next level and they are now working with AgriExpo focusing on producers. If you want to read their Press Release giving much more detail click on this link to their web page https://sauvignonblanc.com/news/in-the-news/ From a public perspective, most people get to know the organisation through its prominent annual FNB Sauvignon Blanc Top 10 competition. The championship’s important dates for this year are the opening for entries at end July; judging from 3rd to 6th September and the gala awards evening on Wednesday 9th October. A technical seminar based on this year's performance is scheduled to take place on Wednesday 20th November in Franschhoek
Dr Carien Coetzee from Basic Wine, who has been contracted to write a series of exclusive technical reports, will do the Technical Liaison with producers. They will support producers with information and keep them up to date about what is happening world-wide with Sauvignon Blanc. Journal articles and other information will be transformed so that it is digestible information which can be used in the winery.  Winemakers and researchers in wine will be talking together, having discussions about where they are going. Experimental wines will be discussed and what is happening and working in the cellars. There will be a technical day at the end of the year at which international experts will talk about their country's Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon SA will help producers to make quality Sauvignon Blanc
The Sauvignon Blanc Interest Group will henceforth be known as Sauvignon Blanc South Africa and this is the new logo. They are sending out a message from South Africa to the rest of the wine world: "We are big players in the industry". They are in negotiations with Concours Mondial 2021 to be the first New World country to host this prestigious competition. This year it is being held in Aigle, in the Swiss region of Vaud
The lunch menu and the cutlery box on every place setting. The four hints for each course do not give one any clue about what food is about to be served. It is all a huge mystery, which we find a little disconcerting, not knowing what we are about to eat. A culinary adventure into a world of ingredients, with some smoke and mirrors
The wine lists we could choose from
A superb Blanc Fumé (wooded Sauvignon Blanc) from Vrede and Lust
Good fresh bread, still warm and some ash butter. We do hope the ash craze ends soon,
as trying to avoid eating burnt carbon is not easy. It has been linked to cancer
Aubergine, Sesame, Shiitake, Coriander was a small roasted banana aubergine with a puddle of grey sesame tahini sauce, some dried shiitake mushroom crumbs, which had a good nutty crunch and a spoonful of what tasted like a very rich aubergine paté with mushroom. There was a hint of vinegar to counteract the richness. John had something else resembling this, but without the mushroom and a lot more crumbs. Not sure whether green coriander was in the grey sauce or whether the ground spice had been used. Certainly couldn’t taste green coriander which is not our favourite herb. The dish flattened one of our favourite Sauvignon Blancs, the de Grendel Koetshuis, but worked with the Strandveld. Horses for courses.... (sic)
Sunchoke, cocoa, sunflower, basil. Sunchoke is also known as Jerusalem artichoke and this dish had it in at least three different ways, thinly sliced raw, lightly pickled, well roasted gnarley bits that hadn't been peeled (very delicious) and slices that had probably been baked. Some was a bit fibrous. They were on a cocoa, and possibly sunflower seed, sauce and topped with fresh basil leaves, which took the dish to a whole new dimension. We love Jerusalem artichokes, despite their known windy after-effects, but they are very difficult to find in SA. It is a root from a member of the sunflower family. The Diemersdal has a wonderfully aromatic nose with hints of salt and kelp, then green pepper pyrazines and the crisp long layers of fresh, classic Durbanville Sauvignon Blanc. The 2015 Mulderbosch also has a great nose of mature Sauvignon Blanc with those identifiable pyrazines. Lovely, rich and full mouthfeel
Chefs at work on the pass
Next course: Line fish, Kale, Sorrel, Furikake. The line fish was later identified as silver fish. Quite fishy smelling, it has a very soft texture. It had been fried well, possibly in butter, and had a good golden crispness on the edges. It had a few bones and some scales. The dreaded Kale - we have yet to meet anyone who actually likes this very healthy vegetable, often fed to cattle, was served two ways, boiled (very chewy), and crisp fried, so glassy, and sprinkled with the Furikake. That is a dry Japanese seasoning meant to be sprinkled on top of cooked rice, vegetables, and fish. It typically consists of a mixture of dried fish, sesame seeds, chopped seaweed, sugar, salt, and monosodium glutamate. The creamy sauce probably had the sorrel in it. Sorrel adds a good acid freshness to food and certainly the sauce went well with the fish. Nitida's Wild Child 2017 Sauvignon Blanc has a mature nose and palate of limes and elderflower; we loved it. Really good with the fish. The Diemersdal Winter Ferment 2018 with a screw cap was fresh and zesty and another great wine with fish
Dessert was titled Afrikoa Chocolate, Pecan Nut, Shiso. We surmise from this lovely dessert that they have a good pastry chef, as it was much enjoyed at our table. Afrikoa is the first bean-to-bar company in South Africa to produce chocolate made from cocoa sourced directly from African farmers. The chocolate mousse was rich and fruity and very smooth. Beneath it was a thin dark chocolate cake. Thin slivers of Pecan meringue raised the game. We have never had Shiso leaves on a dessert. They are used often in savoury Japanese food. Although they are a member of the mint family, they have little flavour and added nothing to the dish but greenness. As a mint leaf might. The Kleine Zalze is very green on both the nose and palate with long dark flavours and was good with the rich dessert. An interesting meal with some extraordinary and great wines. Yes, we are fans of Sauvignon Blanc in all its different styles and ages
All content ©  John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus
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