Thursday, May 30, 2019

Middelvlei celebrates a century of wine-making

In 1919 two brothers, Tinnie and Niels Momberg, bought Middelvlei, just outside Stellenbosch, and moved their families onto the farm and now, 100 years later, they are celebrating their centenary and nearly ten generations of Momberg family farmers. We were invited to join them, to taste some of their wines, older and new vintages, and to experience their 'egte Boerebraai' (real farmers' barbecue). Middelvlei is in the beautiful Devon Valley in Stellenbosch. It was a very special day of great wines, good food and superb hospitality
Inside the tasting room
One of the two family homes. The family and the farm have a long history - you can read about it on their web site. One interesting fact is how they are connected. One of the original founding brothers, Oom Niels, had a granddaughter who married into the Retief family who own Van Loveren in Robertson
Our welcome drink was the Middelvlei 2018 Unoaked Chardonnay, already the recipient of several wine awards,
a typical Chardonnay, crisp and dry with flavours of citrus and peach, some minerality and very enjoyable
Tinnie Momberg, Father Stiljan (Quiet Jan) Momberg and Ben Momberg. Tinnie is the Winemaker/Viticulturist
and Ben does, as he says, everything else, looking after sales here and abroad and building the brand
Together, they have blended modern winemaking and viticultural techniques with tried-and-tested methods
Ben's wife, Jeanneret, with her great skills, handles the marketing
The wonderful "organ" of wines we were to taste:
From an aged but still alive 1978 Pinotage to the brand new releases of the 2018 vintage
L to R Pinotage. The 1994 Middelvlei Pinotage had cherry and dark toasted incense wood on the nose, lovely cherry berry fruit with some fresher morello cherry notes on the end with chalky tannins. The 1989 Pinotage with brick edges had bruléed fruit, caramel and dark cassis berry fruit. Clean and soft berry fruit on the palate belies the rather cooked nose, a surprise. 1978 Pinotage had violets, cassis and mulberries on the beautiful, fruit driven nose, and is still elegant. Brick edges. Soft fruit, ready velvet tannins; it did slowly fade in the glass, but was impressive for its age. We also tasted the impressive 2011 Pinotage which had incense wood, plums, elderberry and maraschino cherry on the nose, soft sweet fruit nicely rounded plum and maraschino cherry on the palate 18/20 for us. The 2017 Middelvlei Pinotage has steely hints, wood and plums on the nose. Sweet plum fruit with licorice and salt on the palate and is already soft and "sappig". This is a food wine and we predict that it will age beautifully
Next three Shirazes. Middelvlei 2017 Shiraz was our favourite wine of the tasting and is our Wine of the Week. Rich cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit, like a summer pudding, with some spice and black pepper on the nose. Rounded and deep on the palate, full of cherry, berry, summer pudding or fruit jelly flavours initially, then the kick of alcohol gives almost Romtopf complexity. Delicious. It finishes with some cumin and cinnamon spice. 1991 Shiraz has brick edges, spice and wood. Cherries Jubilee fruit. On the palate, crisp, clean red berry fruit, but aged quickly in the glass. 1989 Shiraz, Rich with cherry, raspberry fruit and pepper and cumin on the nose. Nice fruit initially, then went shy for a little, then revived. Think this is in a resting stage. It has everything - fruit, acid, wood, alcohol to last. Is this a sleeper? Would love to see this in another 10 years
Next three were Cabernet Sauvignons: Middelvlei 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon has linear cassis fruit and French oak, a superb nose; so perfumed it is almost wearable. On the palate, cassis in all its glory, tannins are grippy but the fruit overcomes and lasts. We rate this highly. The 1989 Cabernet has a rich complex note with berry fruit, green cassis leaves, smoke and wood. Lovely clean Cabernet fruit, fresh young cassis and violets, such potential still. The 2017 Cabernet has pretty cassis leaf and berry on the nose, vanilla (American) oak and violets. Cassis on the palate too; freshness of youth with potential, long flavours and soft chalky tannins. A Stellenbosch farm where Cabernet shines and thrives
Jeanneret Momberg gets us seated for the tasting
 Jeanneret is married to Ben and is responsible for the national and international sales and marketing
The brothers pour the wines we are to taste
The two tasting sheets
The oldest wine of the tasting, the 1978 Pinotage
This bottle of the 1978 was for the German market
Just an indication of the wines left in our glasses at the end of the tasting. We don't ever drink it all; in fact, it would not be possible to do so without becoming very inebriated. Most wine journalists have learned to taste and spit. However, we could keep the best wines to enjoy with lunch!
Pinkie Tukwayo cooks the Braaivleis over the open coals
Lamb chops done to perfection and chicken kebabs. all basted to keep them moist
The grid on top holds the Braai brood - bread filled with cheese, tomato and other flavours, which melts as it toasts
Typical potjies that go on the fire. Stews can be cooked or bread baked in them
A joyous Happy Birthday from a staff member with a wonderful voice;
in perfect timing and pitch, although completely unaccompanied. Sadly, we did not catch her name
and to celebrate that 100th birthday, some Tradition Brut MCC from Villiera
A view of the fields and vineyards in the distance
A traditional start to any Braai, pot baked bread with butter, jam and snoek paté
And that glass of bubbly, which helped to re-enliven the palates after the intense tasting
The current wines with their new labels:
2017 Pinotage Merlot, 2018 Free Run Pinotage, 2017 Shiraz, 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon,
2017 Momberg Red - a blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Pinotage, 14% Shiraz
Soon to be released are the Momberg Wood Fermented Chenin and the 2018 Momberg Pinotage
Chatting while we wait for the lunch to arrive are Maryka and Clifford Roberts on the left and PRO Pippa Pringle, Greg Landman and Tienie Momberg. At the end of the table beyond Lynne are Jeff Gradwell and journalist 
The Boerebraai main course food arrives. A mixed salad; light as air pumpkin fritters, dusted with cinnamon sugar; potato salad and grilled lamb chops, moist and succulent, flavourful from the good marinade and with nice crisp fat. The Boerebraai meal, which is served for lunch Monday to Sunday costs R225 per person. Besides tasting the wines, you can also do a Food and Wine pairing and have a wine blending experience on the farm Click this link for details
Marinated chicken kebabs
and excellent Boerewors (Farmer's sausage) in their own gravy. There are vegetarian options available too
Those braai breads, filled with cheese that is oozing out
Dessert was a real Malva pudding, soft sponge, soaked in syrup, crisp on the edges and topped with a vanilla ice cream. So many get Malva wrong and serve dry cake, this was excellent. What a great meal. We have to return with overseas friends in the summer. Thank you all at Middelvlei

On the MENU this week, Rich Beef Shin casserole in a red wine and vegetable base

Lynne wanted to try and recapture the wonderful flavours of the casserole we had at Bones restaurant when we went there a couple of months ago. This is her attempt. Getting a huge piece of shin of beef on the bone is not easy so she used cut rounds of shin



4 or 6 rounds of shin of beef with the marrow bone in the centre, at least 3.5 to 4 cm thick - salt and freshly ground black pepper – 2 Tbsps canola oil -one large onion, chopped – 4 or 5 whole garlic cloves – 500 ml of good red wine – 2 cups of good veal or beef stock – 4 baby carrots, washed and trimmed or two carrots peeled and chopped – 2 sticks of celery, cut into 5 cm lengths – 3 courgettes, in 4 cm slices – 6 or 7 cobs of baby corn – 1 Tbspn fresh thyme and 1 Tbspn fresh chopped rosemary –  2 bay leaves - 1 cup frozen peas
Turn on your oven to 150°C
Season the beef well with salt and pepper. In the base of an oven proof casserole heat the oil and brown the beef on both sides. Remove and set aside. Add the onion to the pot and fry gently until it is beginning to take on colour. Add the whole garlic cloves – they will disappear in the cooking. Pour in 2/3rds of the red wine and reduce rapidly to half the quantity. Set the rest of the wine aside for later
Add the stock, the beef, herbs and all the vegetables except the peas. Bring the casserole to a simmer, put on the lid and put into the oven to slowly cook for at least 2 hours or until the meat is falling off the bone. Check every hour or so to see that the casserole is not going dry, add more water if it is. You do want it to reduce a bit to a rich dark gravy. After two hours you can remove the bones (but do leave the bone marrow in the casserole to enrich it), and any skin or sinews you find inedible and cut the meat into chunks. Add the peas and the rest of the wine and cook for another half an hour. ### Add the secret ingredient if you can get it
This dish is undoubtedly better on the second day, so if you can, precook it and keep in the fridge
To serve, all it needs is some very buttery mashed potato, as all the vegetables are in the dish. And served with a good bottle of red wine like Middelvlei Shiraz, our Wine of the Week

All content ©  John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus

MENU’s Wine of the Week is Middelvlei 2017 Shiraz


This was our favourite wine of the Vintage tasting held at Middelvlei

Rich cherry, raspberry, strawberry fruit, like a summer pudding, with some spice and black pepper on the nose. Rounded and deep on the palate, full of cherry berry summer pudding or fruit jelly flavours initially, then the kick of alcohol gives almost Romtopf complexity. Delicious. It finishes with some cumin and cinnamon spice. Drinking beautifully now and undoubtedly will age well . A great Shiraz for complex food, including game, meat and dishes from foreign shores like Morocco, Mexico and India

All content ©  John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus

La Mouette Winter Special

A family birthday always means a food celebration in our house and, last weekend, we went to try out the Winter Special at La Mouette for daughter Clare's birthday.  We would thoroughly recommend this! It was indeed a feast and rather good value
La Mouette introduced Cape Town to these delicious light croquettes and have not been able to take them off their menu because they are so popular. Lynne's had a lovely hint of truffle oil and the outside was crisp with a savour creamy centre, while garlic infused aioli added another dimension
The bread served was excellent and it was very hard to hold back, knowing that several more courses were to follow. Soft baps of light white bread with chives and a good brown seed loaf in a ciabatta style. The pan contained rendered lard with a rich balsamic glaze, crisp flakes of garlic and some herbs
Clare asked for a Mojito cocktail and was rewarded with this large glass of perfection. We were treated to some good local MCC bubbly, probably a Blanc de Blanc and, we guess, possibly from Colmant in Franschhoek?
The Butternut soup is served naked first, showing the roasted hazelnuts and creamy goats cheese topped with a parmesan crisp and some onion cress
Then the rich sweet butternut soup is poured into the bowls.  The goats cheese is the perfect foil for the soup, it adds that necessary umami savouriness, as does the parmesan crisp
Lynne went for a glass of Trizanne 2018 Sauvignon Blanc - and it comes in a generous carafe, so there was enough for all the next courses. John ordered the Rijks Touch of Oak 2018 Chenin Blanc. Both matched the dishes very well
There are choices on the next course and Clare chose the Organic beet salad with house made ricotta cheese, tempura leaf and beetroot ketchup, which she said was very good
We both went for the local hake, pearly fresh and beautifully cooked as it fell into flakes. Nicely seasoned and very flavourful it went very well with the Jerusalem artichoke purée, the crisp fried shavings of the same vegetable and the tiny balls of pomme dauphine
A surprise addition is some good umami bone broth which has an added element of acidity. Pure genius, Chef Henry.  We'll skate over the kale.... 
Two choices on the main course as well. This was the Beef short rib, tender and unctuous, served with a confit sweet potato, pickled turnip, and an aubergine and miso purée and some spinach
The girls went for the mushroom risotto, so well cooked with large separate grains in a rich umami mushroom sauce, topped with shimeji mushrooms, wild rocket and grated aged parmesan with that necessary crystallisation
Dessert is a rhubarb fool on a lemon posset, dressed with mint oil (nicely subtle), an almond crumble and some light as air vanilla donuts
And a special from the kitchen for the birthday girl, light nut meringue dacquoise layers, filled topped with cream, nuts and chocolate balls. Much appreciated
A very good and generous double espresso for the driver
Our bill
All content ©  John & Lynne Ford, Adamastor & Bacchus